Date: July 2005

Bus Type: BlueBird 1985 FC Wanderlodge

Project: Solar panel and charge controller installation.

FYI's: My purpose in posting this is just to outline what I did, it might help 
someone, and someone else might have a better approach. 

Problem:  When boondocking I would like to have some limited current 
producing system independent of running the generator.   Also, when the bus is 
stored without shore power the steady current draw from various systems will 
slowly deplete the batteries if the master 12-volt switch is not turned off.  

As an FYI: At times I have forgotten to do this and after 2-3 days, the bus 
batteries are dead. The main 12-volt master switch is under dash to the right of 
the steering wheel. The main switch shuts off almost everything but some minor 
loads (clock, monitor panel, stereo clock, gas alarm, etc), these loads are 
controlled by the electronics master switch. The only thing that has saved me 
when this has happened is that the generator battery is isolated, I can start the 
generator and then charge the coach batteries and then start the coach.

Ideally, I want to start with a single solar panel but have the ability to add more 
panels if desired at a later date.  I am not really trying to build a system to allow 
me to "live off solar power" at this point, I am just looking for 
"supplemental/maintenance charging". 

Solar Panel Kit Selection: 

I checked the Internet and Campers World and found plenty of suppliers and a 
range of components and kits.  There are critical choices to be made as to:
? Solar panel size and also to type of solar panel.
? Charging controller 
? Mounting options for panel
? Components - wiring, fittings, etc.

Based on my goals, I went with a Sunrunner 100-22 from AMSOLAR.  This kit 
gave me what I wanted;
? a high output panel,
? a panel mounting system that permitted tilting the panel toward the sun,
? an advanced charge controller that would maximize charging amps from the 
panel and provide a digital readout of actual charge rates and voltage.

Vendor site is :              http://www.amsolar.com/index.html


Installation:  

I did this project at the same time I was fixing my dash AC.  As a result of already 
having the overhead dash area opened up and rewiring the rooftop AC 
condenser, my installation choices may be different from yours.  The kit came 
with instructions that suggested going down the refrigerator vent and I have also 
heard of going directly thru the roof into the mid coach power center on the 
drivers side (above the couch just in front of the bathroom in the load center 
compartment area).

I found when working on the dash AC that the front left power center has both hot 
and ground bus bars with open spaces. This load center is to the left of the AC 
unit, and is behind a black rubber "flap".  This load panel is fed by the large 
coach 12 volt main power cables and tapping directly to these cables in my case 
avoided having to run cables all the way to the batteries.  From the solar panel to 
the charge controller to the main cables, I would estimate my wire run as perhaps 
10-12 feet at most.  A short wire run like this reduces voltage drop and makes 
installation simple.  Also, any future trouble shooting or repairs are made easier 
due to everything being in the same place.

I mounted the solar panel just aft of the front rooftop Coleman air conditioner on 
the driver's side of the coach roof.  On my 33' coach, this area was open and 
offered "good sun view" with nothing (like a cargo pod or AC unit) shading the 
panel.  Mounting here also allowed a short wire run and permits easy movement 
around the panel for other maintenance on the coach. 

I ran the solar panel wire forward along the inner edge of the roof top guardrail 
and ran the cable down into the coach overhead AC/upper dash compartment.  I 
tied the wire down with wire ties and cable hold-downs about every 16 inches.  
On the open roof area, I used self-adhesive cable tie-downs.  

As I was re-wiring the front roof top condenser for the dash AC, I used the same 
"hole" used for the condenser wiring.  I removed the sheet metal cover and drilled 
another hole for the solar panel grommet and wire, then reinstalled with silicone 
caulk the sheet metal cover used by BB.  

The solar panel feed wire enters the upper dash compartment and is run directly 
to the solar charge controller that I installed in the metal grill area just above the 
existing voltage monitoring panel on the passenger side of the upper dash panel.  
I chose this location as it is well ventilated and it is co-located with all the other 
power monitoring gauges.  The battery feed cable then is run from the controller 
to the dash load center previously mentioned.  Again, this wire run is only 
perhaps 4 feet, reducing voltage drop.

To date, I am very satisfied with all the parts and components that came in the kit 
and am very pleased with the performance of the system.  The single panel 
meets my needs, and the system can be expanded if desired.