Swing Radiator

Swing Radiator - December 2003 – January 2004

The swing radiator was completed on a 1974 Bluebird, 31’, with the Ford 534 CI gas engine.

Assumptions

All information in this document is presented standing in front looking at the coach.
The radiator will hinge on the left, opening on the right.
Radiator mounting variations exist in different years. If you are handy at this type of thing you can build a swing out radiator and swing down bumper.
Reference the other swing radiator projects at www.wanderlodge.org. They are very helpful.
You have read this entire document before taking on the project.
You have studied the project pictures along with this document.

Not an assumption…head scratching will take more time than the actual labor spent building.

Items of Work Performed

Measurements – make a scaled drawing (side view) of the radiator, front crank pulley, frame horn cross member and the ground.

Save all measurements.

Measure the distance between the lower radiator tank and the leading crank pulley.
Measure the lowest distance between the lower radiator tank or tank protrusion (transmission line fittings) and the ground.
Measure the distance between the leading crank pulley and the ground.
Is the frame horn cross member lower than the radiator? If not, measure from the top of the cross member tube to the ground.
The scaled drawing, using measurements 1, 2, 3, demonstrate if there is room for the bottom radiator tank modification (return tube). Number 4 is used to identify the frame horn cross member lowering modification. It’s okay for bottom radiator tube to have a slight downward slant to clear the crank pulleys. The bottom radiator return tube will be approximately ¾" away from the back of the tank. The diameter of the return tube should be no less than the smallest diameter water passage from the bottom of the radiator to the water pump suction (inlet).

If you are satisfied with the above then go ahead with the swing radiator project.

Getting started

Disconnect ALL battery cables!

Remove the coach skin in front of the radiator and set aside.
Disconnect all wiring from the bumper, radiator mounting plate, frame horn cross member.
Remove the bumper. It’s heavy but manageable. Set aside.
Remove the frame horn support (cross) member. Can be left attached if it will not have to be modified (lowered) to allow the radiator to swing over it. It is easier to work on everything with it removed.
Drain the coolant, 10+ gallons. Check your specifications for coolant capacity.
Remove all coolant hoses from the radiator including coach heater line(s).
Remove the transmission lines from the radiator if so equipped and catch the fluid.
Disconnect the transmission cooler from the radiator and/or mounting plate and lower it to the ground.

Remove the radiator and mounting plate assembly from the coach

Remove the 4 or 6 bolts holding the radiator mounting plate to the coach frame. The unit should stand on the frame horns.

Have someone help move the unit to a table or other suitable area for disassembling.

Remove the radiator shroud. Separate the radiator from the channels. Remove the channels from the mounting plate. Remove the radiator cap.

Special tool - The 1974 has two channel brackets, one on each side of the radiator. They are bolted to the mounting plate and to the radiator side supports. A tool was made to assist in reaching the bolt heads down in the channel…a 9/16" box/open-end wrench was cut in half...each half was welded to the ends of a 3/16" x 1" x 18" flat stock. The tool is also needed for assemble.

Radiator modification

Note: Remember all information is presented standing in front and looking at the coach. Probable best to give the radiator shop instructions looking at the back of the radiator. The following information is still presented looking at the coach front.

Take the radiator to a reliable radiator shop, a shop that can fabricate. Inform them what you want done.

Relocate radiator inlet (top) coolant connection to the other end of the tank.
Relocate the suction (bottom) coolant connection to the other end of the tank and make a 90 degree turn to just past the middle of the radiator. The scaled drawing should tell if a slight downward slope is required.

The radiator connection was 2-3/4" diameter. The radiator shop was instructed to make this a 2-1/2" opening.
Purchase from a muffler shop a 2-1/2" "U" bend. This can be cut in two, shaped to fit into the bottom tank. It also makes the return tube to past the center of the radiator.
Install a support across the bottom of the radiator tank to 3" before the outlet end of the return tube.

Plug the original radiator inlet and suction areas.
Some radiators have a solid overflow tube that is attached to the radiator filler neck, attached to the top of radiator, and it travels down to the lower end of the radiator. Usually the tube seal is cracked at the filler neck and it leaks coolant. This needs to be resolved. If this is applicable, tell the radiator shop to keep only a short portion (1-1/4") of the overflow tube at the filler neck. And to solder the tube at the neck.
Transmission line connections at the bottom of the radiator remain.
The coach heater connection(s) remain.
Maybe relocate the drain pet-cock to the front of the radiator.
May want the radiator flow and pressure tested.
May want the radiator cleaned out too.
Don’t paint the radiator. You paint it with good paint.

Purchase parts

Purchase 2 good 4" x 4" hinges. The hinge plates should be blank (no holes). Check with an Industrial Hardware store.

Good idea -purchase all new bolts washers, nuts to replace all those that were removed from the bumper, mounting plate, radiator to channel brackets, shroud, etc.

The new bolts for the mounting plate to frame on the hinge side should be 1/2" longer than those removed…allowing for the hinge thickness.
Buy square nuts for the frame mounting bolts and 4 square nuts for the bumper mounting bolts (10 in all).

Buy 4 quarter inch x 1-1/4" bolts, washers, nuts, for the bumper bracket.

Buy four 3/8" x 1-1/4" bolts including washers and nuts, for anchoring the left side of the hinges.

Buy a couple cans of rust preventative paint in a spray can from your local distributor. RUST-OLEUM gloss black works well.

Mounting plate modification

On the back side of each hinge, scribe a line top to bottom 7/8" from the outside edge (only the hinge half that will be attached to the front of the mounting plate). With the mounting plate back side up, place the hinges with scribed line under and on-center with the frame bolt holes. Be sure the two hinges are lined up to each other top to bottom. Clamp the hinges in place.

Tack weld the two hinges to the mounting plate, in areas that can be easily removed.

Place mounting plate back on coach, aligned with the frame bolt holes on the right. Insert a bolt in one of the right frame holes. Snug up the bolt/nut, not tight.

To adjust for any protruding rivets and the thickness of the mounting plate, place a ¼" (more or less) spacer behind the hinge free end (left side of the hinge).

Clamp the hinge end and spacer to the coach.

Remove the bolt from the right frame hole. Swing out the mounting plate to check for fit. It should swing freely. It may rub on top of frame horns and that is okay.

Return the plate to the closed position.

Attach the right side radiator channel to the mounting plate. Swing out the mounting plate. The channel should clear the right frame horn. Make a note of the minimum space between the channel and the frame horn as the plate is moved out and in.

Attach the left side radiator channel to the mounting plate. The left radiator channel may not clear the frame horn and may need to be cut off so it does clear.

If necessary, mark the channel, cut only the front and side off the channel, leaving the back.
Reattach the channel. Swing out the mounting plate again. It should swing clear of the left frame horn.

On the left side only, clamp a straight edge to the left front of the mounting plate and extending 4" or so below the plate. Align the left side of the straight edge with the right side of the left channel. Swing out the mounting plate. If the straight edge clears the left frame horn you have completed this step. If it does not swing 90 degrees you have a decision to make. If the opening provides enough room to work on the front of the engine you can leave the plate/hinge unit as is. This is recommended. If you want the mounting plate to swing to 90 degrees then remove the plate/hinge unit, cut the tack welds, move the hinges to the left and tack-weld. Keep in mind the circumference of the swing will increase as the hinge is moved to the left. Also keep in mind the clearance at the right frame horn. If close then maybe the hinge should not be relocated.

Weld the hinges and the radiator mounting plate

Remove the plate from the coach.
Make a weld pass on the front and the back, top to bottom.

Mounting holes in hinges

Turn plate so back side is up.
Center punch the hinges through the plate mounting holes.
Drill holes through the hinges equal to the plate holes.

Plate and Nut lock assemble – may not be required on your coach if nuts are already fastened to the coach.

Prepare nut locks - Cut 2 (one for each side) pieces of 1/8" flat stock to fit behind the frame mounting holes (between the coach frame channel top to bottom). Fit the flat stock so it is flat to the back side of the frame mounting holes (may be rivets present). Mark the flat stock through the frame holes. Also mark the flat stock for width top to bottom. Cut the flat stock to width. Center punch the marked holes. Drill holes 1/16" larger diameter than the bolt diameter.
Set the mounting plate to the coach. Place the 1/8" flat stock behind the frame mounting holes. Insert the bolts through the plate, the frame holes, and 1/8" flat stock. Use the 6 square nuts.

Make any adjustments to the alignment of the holes in the plate, frame and 1/8" flat stock. All the bolts should slide in freely.
Moderately tighten the bolts and the square nuts.

Tack weld the nuts to the 1/8" flat stock.

Remove the bolts and the 1/8" flat stock. Finish welding the nuts to the flat stock.

Install the mounting plate with the flat stock/nuts. Tighten the bolts.

Tack weld the 1/8" flat stock to the coach frame edge, the edge nearest the radiator opening.

Remove the bolts and mounting plate. Finish welding the 1/8" flat stock to the frame edge, 1" at the top, center and bottom is fine.

Remove any excess weld preventing the mounting plate from closing all the way.

Hinge to coach frame (left side of hinges)

Install the mounting plate. Tighten the bolts.

Weld the left end of hinges and the spacer to the coach, or bolt the hinges to the coach. Bolting is recommended.

The next steps specify bolting the hinges. Skip these steps if the hinges are welded to the coach.

Mark the left side of the hinges for drilling holes - 2 holes per hinge.

Be sure there is room for washers and nuts behind the coach plate. Holes may need to be more to the left of center.

Remove the mounting plate.
Center punch the hinge bolt marks.
Drill the holes to 3/8".
Do the same for the hinge spacer.
Install the mounting plate – tighten the frame bolts on each side.
Place the spacer behind the hinges, and drill the coach plate behind the spacer.

Drill one hole and install a 3/8" bolt through the hinge, spacer and the coach plate. Put a washer and nut on and tighten the bolt/nut.
Repeat this step for the 3 other holes.

Remove the mounting plate frame bolts.
Test the swing again.
Remove the mounting plate for use in the Painting step below.

Frame Horn cross member modification

The scaled drawing should tell you the distance that the cross member is to be lowered. If in doubt this modification can be made after the radiator is in place.

Use ¼" plate or flat stock the width of the cross member ends and about 8"in length.

Use the end of the cross member as a pattern to mark one end of the plates. Center it half on/off the plate. Scribe a line around the cross member. Cut out the scribed line.
Use a floor jack to balance the cross member at the required height. Place the plates on top of the cross member ends and to the inside of the frame horns.
Mark the plates through the frame horn bolt holes.
Center punch and drill the plate holes the size of the bolt removed. Be sure the hole is in the center of the plate.
Bolt the plates to the to the cross member ends. Scribe a line half way round the cross member. This makes for a nice round end on the plates.
Remove the bolts and cut the scribed line.
Bolt the plates to the frame horn bolt holes.
Raise the cross member to fit into the plate inside curve. Be sure the two plates are aligned.
Tack weld the plates to the cross member.
Make another set of plates to fit under the frame horns. They will attach to the cross member ends and the plates previously made.

Use the same material as above.
Using the cross member end, scribe a half round line at the ends of a 10" length.
Center punch and drill holes at each end to match the cross member end.
Cut the scribed lines.
Now cut the plate, basically in two, so that each will fit against the cross member ends and under the frame horn. Fit the plate to the cross member ends and cut them to the correct length.
Place bolts through the plate hole and into the cross member. Align the plate with the cross member and the first plate. The bolts are used later when making the swing down bumper.
Tack weld the plate to hold its position.

Remove the cross member.
At the inside corners add a gusset from the plate to the top of the tube.
Completely weld the two plates, gussets and cross member.

Good things to do and at this time

Replace all the belts.

Replace the short coolant hose between the water pump and intake manifold.

Replace all the coolant hoses in the radiator compartment that connect the hard tubing for the

engine/coach heat system.

Replace the heat/sound insulation at the top and sides of the radiator compartment. 1" works well. Purchase from J C Whitney. Use 3M 90 spray adhesive (Home Depot).

Painting

Paint all the parts…radiator, channels, mounting plate, shroud, frame cross member, etc.

Suggest using RUST-OLEUM gloss black.

Install the radiator

Install the mounting plate to the coach using the four hinge bolts. Tighten the bolts.

Install the radiator channels. The channels should already be installed unless they were removed for painting.

Place the mounting plate in the swing out position and place a good support under it at the height to the bottom of the radiator (a floor jack works well, place a folded towel or pad on top of the saddle to limit scratching or damage to the radiator).

With help, take the radiator to the coach and set it in position on the jack saddle. Hold the radiator to the channels while the help raises or lowers the jack to position the radiator with the channels. Insert a top bolt on each side and install a flat/lock washer and nut. Finger tighten only.

Locate the tool made during the radiator and mounting plate disassembly (the 9/16" wrench cut in half, etc.) It will be needed to install the bolts.

Install the other bolts, washers, and nuts. Do not tighten. Use a piece of masking tape to hold the bolt head in the box end of the wrench. This will allow the bolts to be lowered into the channels and inserted into position.

Push the radiator to the left as much as the slots allow. Tighten all the bolts.

Carefully swing the radiator. Pay close attention to the radiator at the frame horns. Radiator should swing as designed. The radiator either clears the left frame horn or meets the left frame horn. Either way there is room to work on the front of the engine.

Install a clear flexible tube to the radiator overflow tube at the radiator neck. Run the tube down the side to below the bottom of the radiator. Use zip ties to hold the tube in place.

Install the radiator shroud

Install the radiator shroud. Depending on the radiator shop when attaching the radiator mounting supports, the shroud may require spacers to keep it from bowing. If spacers are needed, install them on the right end of the shroud.

Shroud and Fan clearance

Check the shroud and fan for clearance.

Loosen or remove the fan belts so the fan can rotate freely.

Carefully swing the radiator towards the closed position. Do not force anything. The radiator shroud will most likely touch the fan on the left side. If not that is great. Rotate the fan to be sure all blades clear.

From under the coach, look up at the left side. Carefully rotate the fan to determine the amount of material that will be removed from the fan shroud so the fan will clear.

Remove the shroud.
Cut out only enough material to allow the shroud to go over the fan when closing the swing radiator. The extreme left side of the shroud should require the cutting.
Install the shroud.
Repeat this process if necessary until the shroud clears the fan.

Hoses

Purchase parts

Do the measuring best you can…

Radiator to water pump - The 534 required a flex hose (gates green stripe) 2-1/2" x 28" (max. length available), a short piece of 3" straight hose, a 3" to 2-1/2" reducer, and 5" of 2-1/2" exhaust tubing. Your application may require something different.

Manifold to radiator – The 534 required a pre-formed hose with greater than a 90 degree bend, a flex hose 2-1/2" x 24" (gates green stripe), a 2-1/2" to 2/14" reducer, and 4" of 2-1/2" exhaust tubing.

Transmission lines – May need to be longer. Wait until after the radiator is installed.
Several trips to the store may be required.
A heavy duty truck parts store is a good source for the hoses, clamps, and belts too.
A muffler shop will have the exhaust tube.

Note: If your application requires using the exhaust tubs, weld one bead around the tube ends ¼" in from the ends. Grind down to 1/16" height. This will act as a flange and prevent the hoses from coming off.

Swing down bumper

Weld the bumper bolts to the frame horn.

Remove the dirt and rust at the back side of the bumper mounting slots.
Install the bumper.
Weld the bumper nuts to the frame.

Make up brackets that attach to the bumper and the original bolt holes in the frame horn cross member.

Use ¼" x 2" flat stock.
Cut the length so the upper end is ½" above the lower bumper lip.
Drill out the brackets so they can be bolted to the cross member ends.
Bolt the brackets in place, not tight.
Make a plate the will fit the bumper lower lip (upper side) and that it returns to the brackets that you just mounted. Basically a 1-1/2" x 5" on the bumper and a 1" x 3" to the bracket.
Clamp the 1-1/2" x 5" on the bumper. Drill a ¼" hole toward each end.
Place bolts/nuts in the holes and tighten.
Align the 1" x 3" to the bumper piece and to the cross member bracket.
Tack weld the 3 pieces.
Remove the brackets and completely weld them.
Paint the brackets.
Install the brackets. Tighten the bracket bumper bolts and the cross member end bolts.
Remove the main bumper bolts. Careful, the bumper will fall forward.
You know have a swing down bumper.

Remember to connect the battery cables, all of them.

Time to do the project

Project duration depends on a lot of things. I’d plan on a month for this project. That is duration now, not the actual time working. The swing radiator takes about 6 hours of labor. The swing down bumper takes about 2 hours. Waiting on the radiator shop can take a few days. Running after coolant hoses and other parts will take some time. Head scratching takes a lot of time.

Recognition

I want to thank the people on the Yahoo www.wanderlodge.org site for their project documents, pictures and their specific input to me, and for encouraging me to go forth with the project.

Curt Sprenger ’74 31’ Anaheim, Ca.

curtsprenger@adelphia.net