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Chassis heat problems - Printable Version

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Chassis heat problems - Pete Masterson - 03-15-2008 13:54

The only thought I have, and it isn't a pleasant one, is that somewhere in a hose between the rear and front of the coach there is a blockage. As coolant lines aged, sometimes the internal lining comes apart, causing an obstruction or blockage. However, the external appearance of the hose does not make it obvious where this might have occurred -- if it's the problem at all.
 
My guess is to open a connection toward the front of the coach and see if the coolant is coming through the line (catch it in a big bucket and shut down the engine very quickly once you've determined there is flow). Assuming the line from rear to front is open, then check the line from the front to the rear (checking near where it returns to the engine cooling loop). 

The second guess is that the forward radiator itself is somehow blocked or clogged. Testing for the water flow (as above) might help narrow down that possibility.
Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
"aeonix1@mac.com"
On Mar 15, 2008, at 4:45 PM, Don Bradner wrote:

Well, it is back to the drawing board. The valve has been removed and replaced, and the voltage tested. What I learned:
<snip>
Looking for new possiblities, if anyone has any ideas.
Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
Eureka, CA
<snip>


Chassis heat problems - Gregory OConnor - 03-15-2008 14:24

If the T stat dont open maybe the recirculation is on the radiator
side of the engine and you are not getting engine heated coolant
untill the radiator sees the same????

Or the valve that needs votage to close is part of a loop that while
open (no volts) keeps heated coolant (when there is some) close to
the cockpit waiting or a command by the operator to sent it to the
chassis heater core???

GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
wrote:
>
> Well, it is back to the drawing board. The valve has been removed
and replaced, and the voltage tested. What I learned:
>
> The valve up front is a normally-open valve, closed by power
coming from the timing circuit. Plus 12 volts is fed down to the
valve, then back through another wire to (somewhere) that gets power
to the #12 relay. When the relay is powered, there is no power to
the circulation pump or the Sporlan valve.
>
> So, power on, both valves are closed, one by the presence of
power, the other by the absence of power, and the pump is off.
>
> When the valve was re-installed I left the power connection off,
so the valve was open (bench test had shown it working, and it was
left in the open position). When the key was turned on, the Sporlan
opened, and the pump ran continuously. The pump never faltered, but
nothing in the system got even warm to the touch (outside temp in
the 40s, engine about 160).
>
> I pulled the top of the pump off and managed to lose about 4
gallons of coolant in the process - certainly the supply side of the
pump is unobstructed! Replaced the gasket and reassembled, after
ascertaining that the pump runs well and there is no damage to any
of the impellor blades.
>
> Both gate valves are wide open, which I assume is the correct
setting (and I presume they should have been closed before I messed
with the pump!)
>
> Looking for new possiblities, if anyone has any ideas.
>
> Don Bradner
> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> Eureka, CA
>
> On 3/15/2008 at 5:52 AM Gregory OConnor wrote:
>
> >If you cant remove the valve maybe try and bypass it to see that
> >that is the problem first???? KevinMk did that with a remote air
> >regulator or somthing????
> >GregoryO'Connor
> >94ptRomolandCa
> >
> >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> My concern is that the front valve may be the plug in the loop,
if
> >it is not opening. Temperature of the engine is not an issue - I
ran
> >it at idle today up to about 160 so that I would have it warm
enough
> >to be sure to feel the heat. All lines stayed cold, including the
> >top of the pump, until I allowed the pump to run open via the
> >dismantled Sporlan. Only took a couple of quarts of coolant
spilled
> >to heat up everything through the pump to the valve.
> >>
> >> On 3/15/2008 at 4:25 AM Gregory OConnor wrote:
> >>
> >> >Could be the pump works when not held against a closed
loop????
> >maybe
> >> >the return line is simply plugged up. or your fan is staying
on,
> >and
> >> >the detroit isnt getting hot??
> >> >
> >> >The camera trick is one CurtS taught me to do. I have even
taken
> >10
> >> >meg picks of part labels then was able to read them on the
> >computer
> >> >screen.
> >> >
> >> >When you look at all the controls and appliances exposed to
the
> >> >weather on these rigs it is a wonder that anything works.
> >> >
> >> >GregoryO'Connor
> >> >94ptRomolandCa
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------------
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

Chassis heat problems - Leroy Eckert - 03-15-2008 14:40

I don't know the system other than reading your posts. Never had any trouble. Apparently, mine is the same or very similar. I have two gate valves in the engine bay which I leave open. If the water to the front chassis heater through the gate valves requires the engine thermostats to be open, I would not think 160 degrees would open the engine thermostats,(they are typically 180 but could be 170 by owners choice), hence no hot water to the heater. I will snoop around my coach tomorrow and see where those gate valve lines connect. I would bet after the thermostats.
Just throwing darts.
Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
Dahlonega, GA
Royale Conversion

Don Bradner wrote:
Well, it is back to the drawing board. The valve has been removed and replaced, and the voltage tested. What I learned:

The valve up front is a normally-open valve, closed by power coming from the timing circuit. Plus 12 volts is fed down to the valve, then back through another wire to (somewhere) that gets power to the #12 relay. When the relay is powered, there is no power to the circulation pump or the Sporlan valve.

So, power on, both valves are closed, one by the presence of power, the other by the absence of power, and the pump is off.

When the valve was re-installed I left the power connection off, so the valve was open (bench test had shown it working, and it was left in the open position). When the key was turned on, the Sporlan opened, and the pump ran
continuously. The pump never faltered, but nothing in the system got even warm to the touch (outside temp in the 40s, engine about 160).

I pulled the top of the pump off and managed to lose about 4 gallons of coolant in the process - certainly the supply side of the pump is unobstructed! Replaced the gasket and reassembled, after ascertaining that the pump runs well and there is no damage to any of the impellor blades.

Both gate valves are wide open, which I assume is the correct setting (and I presume they should have been closed before I messed with the pump!)

Looking for new possiblities, if anyone has any ideas.

Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
Eureka, CA

On 3/15/2008 at 5:52 AM Gregory OConnor wrote:

>If you cant remove the valve maybe try and bypass it to see that
>that is the problem first???? KevinMk did that with a remote air
>regulator or somthing????
>GregoryO'Connor

>94ptRomolandCa
>
>--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "Don Bradner"
>...> wrote:
>>
>> My concern is that the front valve may be the plug in the loop, if
>it is not opening. Temperature of the engine is not an issue - I ran
>it at idle today up to about 160 so that I would have it warm enough
>to be sure to feel the heat. All lines stayed cold, including the
>top of the pump, until I allowed the pump to run open via the
>dismantled Sporlan. Only took a couple of quarts of coolant spilled
>to heat up everything through the pump to the valve.
>>
>> On 3/15/2008 at 4:25 AM Gregory OConnor wrote:
>>
>> >Could be the pump works when not held against a closed loop????
>maybe
>> >the return line is simply plugged up. or your
fan is staying on,
>and
>> >the detroit isnt getting hot??
>> >
>> >The camera trick is one CurtS taught me to do. I have even taken
>10
>> >meg picks of part labels then was able to read them on the
>computer
>> >screen.
>> >
>> >When you look at all the controls and appliances exposed to the
>> >weather on these rigs it is a wonder that anything works.
>> >
>> >GregoryO'Connor
>> >94ptRomolandCa
>>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>




Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

Chassis heat problems - Don Bradner - 03-15-2008 17:36

I thought about the thermostat thing, and won't be able to test it until I roll
it on the road in a couple of weeks, but here's the reason I don't think it is
the case: During all of the time when the pump was running with the engine on,
the fittings all stayed cold. Not hot, not warm, but cold to the touch. When I
pulled the top off the pump (engine was shut down), the coolant that came out of
the intake side was hot, and the brass top became almost too hot to touch. So, I
have to assume that the coolant was not flowing (valve closed or blockage) and
that if it had, it would have been hot.

On 3/15/2008 at 6:40 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:

>I don't know the system other than reading your posts. Never had any
>trouble. Apparently, mine is the same or very similar. I have two gate
>valves in the engine bay which I leave open. If the water to the front
>chassis heater through the gate valves requires the engine thermostats to
>be open, I would not think 160 degrees would open the engine
>thermostats,(they are typically 180 but could be 170 by owners choice),
>hence no hot water to the heater. I will snoop around my coach tomorrow
>and see where those gate valve lines connect. I would bet after the
>thermostats.
>Just throwing darts.
>Leroy Eckert
>1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
>Dahlonega, GA
>Royale Conversion
>
>Don Bradner wrote:
>Well, it is back to the drawing board. The valve has been removed and
>replaced, and the voltage tested. What I learned:
>
> The valve up front is a normally-open valve, closed by power coming from
>the timing circuit. Plus 12 volts is fed down to the valve, then back
>through another wire to (somewhere) that gets power to the #12 relay. When
>the relay is powered, there is no power to the circulation pump or the
>Sporlan valve.
>
> So, power on, both valves are closed, one by the presence of power, the
>other by the absence of power, and the pump is off.
>
> When the valve was re-installed I left the power connection off, so the
>valve was open (bench test had shown it working, and it was left in the
>open position). When the key was turned on, the Sporlan opened, and the
>pump ran continuously. The pump never faltered, but nothing in the system
>got even warm to the touch (outside temp in the 40s, engine about 160).
>
> I pulled the top of the pump off and managed to lose about 4 gallons of
>coolant in the process - certainly the supply side of the pump is
>unobstructed! Replaced the gasket and reassembled, after ascertaining that
>the pump runs well and there is no damage to any of the impellor blades.
>
> Both gate valves are wide open, which I assume is the correct setting
>(and I presume they should have been closed before I messed with the pump!)
>
> Looking for new possiblities, if anyone has any ideas.
>
> Don Bradner
> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> Eureka, CA
>
> On 3/15/2008 at 5:52 AM Gregory OConnor wrote:
>
> >If you cant remove the valve maybe try and bypass it to see that
> >that is the problem first???? KevinMk did that with a remote air
> >regulator or somthing????
> >GregoryO'Connor
> >94ptRomolandCa
> >
> >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> My concern is that the front valve may be the plug in the loop, if
> >it is not opening. Temperature of the engine is not an issue - I ran
> >it at idle today up to about 160 so that I would have it warm enough
> >to be sure to feel the heat. All lines stayed cold, including the
> >top of the pump, until I allowed the pump to run open via the
> >dismantled Sporlan. Only took a couple of quarts of coolant spilled
> >to heat up everything through the pump to the valve.
> >>
> >> On 3/15/2008 at 4:25 AM Gregory OConnor wrote:
> >>
> >> >Could be the pump works when not held against a closed loop????
> >maybe
> >> >the return line is simply plugged up. or your fan is staying on,
> >and
> >> >the detroit isnt getting hot??
> >> >
> >> >The camera trick is one CurtS taught me to do. I have even taken
> >10
> >> >meg picks of part labels then was able to read them on the
> >computer
> >> >screen.
> >> >
> >> >When you look at all the controls and appliances exposed to the
> >> >weather on these rigs it is a wonder that anything works.
> >> >
> >> >GregoryO'Connor
> >> >94ptRomolandCa
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------------
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

Chassis heat problems - sfedeli3 - 03-16-2008 00:13

Hi Don,

My guess is that one of your gate valves "dropped". Even though the
valve handle is turning, the inner gate is not lifting. My front heat
circuit did not work for 3 years. Tried flushing the entire loop,
replacing sporlans, relays, dash switches, circulating pump and still
no heat. Finally, removed the gate valve when I pulled the water pump
to replace it and saw that the gate was in the down position. The
inner threads had eroded and when you rotated the handle, nothing
would happen to the gate. I've replaced 2 of the 4 valves with ball
valves.

Shane Fedeli
85PT40
Hershey, PA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
wrote:
>
> I thought about the thermostat thing, and won't be able to test it
until I roll it on the road in a couple of weeks, but here's the
reason I don't think it is the case: During all of the time when the
pump was running with the engine on, the fittings all stayed cold. Not
hot, not warm, but cold to the touch. When I pulled the top off the
pump (engine was shut down), the coolant that came out of the intake
side was hot, and the brass top became almost too hot to touch. So, I
have to assume that the coolant was not flowing (valve closed or
blockage) and that if it had, it would have been hot.
>
> On 3/15/2008 at 6:40 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:
>
> >I don't know the system other than reading your posts. Never had any
> >trouble. Apparently, mine is the same or very similar. I have two gate
> >valves in the engine bay which I leave open. If the water to the front
> >chassis heater through the gate valves requires the engine
thermostats to
> >be open, I would not think 160 degrees would open the engine
> >thermostats,(they are typically 180 but could be 170 by owners choice),
> >hence no hot water to the heater. I will snoop around my coach tomorrow
> >and see where those gate valve lines connect. I would bet after the
> >thermostats.
> >Just throwing darts.
> >Leroy Eckert
> >1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> >Dahlonega, GA
> >Royale Conversion
> >
> >Don Bradner wrote:
> >Well, it is back to the drawing board. The valve has been removed and
> >replaced, and the voltage tested. What I learned:
> >
> > The valve up front is a normally-open valve, closed by power
coming from
> >the timing circuit. Plus 12 volts is fed down to the valve, then back
> >through another wire to (somewhere) that gets power to the #12
relay. When
> >the relay is powered, there is no power to the circulation pump or the
> >Sporlan valve.
> >
> > So, power on, both valves are closed, one by the presence of
power, the
> >other by the absence of power, and the pump is off.
> >
> > When the valve was re-installed I left the power connection off,
so the
> >valve was open (bench test had shown it working, and it was left in the
> >open position). When the key was turned on, the Sporlan opened, and the
> >pump ran continuously. The pump never faltered, but nothing in the
system
> >got even warm to the touch (outside temp in the 40s, engine about
160).
> >
> > I pulled the top of the pump off and managed to lose about 4
gallons of
> >coolant in the process - certainly the supply side of the pump is
> >unobstructed! Replaced the gasket and reassembled, after
ascertaining that
> >the pump runs well and there is no damage to any of the impellor
blades.
> >
> > Both gate valves are wide open, which I assume is the correct setting
> >(and I presume they should have been closed before I messed with
the pump!)
> >
> > Looking for new possiblities, if anyone has any ideas.
> >
> > Don Bradner
> > 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> > Eureka, CA
> >
> > On 3/15/2008 at 5:52 AM Gregory OConnor wrote:
> >
> > >If you cant remove the valve maybe try and bypass it to see that
> > >that is the problem first???? KevinMk did that with a remote air
> > >regulator or somthing????
> > >GregoryO'Connor
> > >94ptRomolandCa
> > >
> > >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> > > wrote:
> > >>
> > >> My concern is that the front valve may be the plug in the loop, if
> > >it is not opening. Temperature of the engine is not an issue - I ran
> > >it at idle today up to about 160 so that I would have it warm enough
> > >to be sure to feel the heat. All lines stayed cold, including the
> > >top of the pump, until I allowed the pump to run open via the
> > >dismantled Sporlan. Only took a couple of quarts of coolant spilled
> > >to heat up everything through the pump to the valve.
> > >>
> > >> On 3/15/2008 at 4:25 AM Gregory OConnor wrote:
> > >>
> > >> >Could be the pump works when not held against a closed loop????
> > >maybe
> > >> >the return line is simply plugged up. or your fan is staying on,
> > >and
> > >> >the detroit isnt getting hot??
> > >> >
> > >> >The camera trick is one CurtS taught me to do. I have even taken
> > >10
> > >> >meg picks of part labels then was able to read them on the
> > >computer
> > >> >screen.
> > >> >
> > >> >When you look at all the controls and appliances exposed to the
> > >> >weather on these rigs it is a wonder that anything works.
> > >> >
> > >> >GregoryO'Connor
> > >> >94ptRomolandCa
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >------------------------------------
> > >
> > >Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
>

Chassis heat problems - Don Bradner - 03-16-2008 05:25

Shane, that's a new one, thanks!

Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
Eureka, CA

On 3/16/2008 at 11:13 AM sfedeli3 wrote:

>Hi Don,
>
> My guess is that one of your gate valves "dropped". Even though the
> valve handle is turning, the inner gate is not lifting. My front heat
>circuit did not work for 3 years. Tried flushing the entire loop,
>replacing sporlans, relays, dash switches, circulating pump and still
>no heat. Finally, removed the gate valve when I pulled the water pump
>to replace it and saw that the gate was in the down position. The
>inner threads had eroded and when you rotated the handle, nothing
>would happen to the gate. I've replaced 2 of the 4 valves with ball
>valves.
>
>Shane Fedeli
>85PT40
>Hershey, PA
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> wrote:
>>
>> I thought about the thermostat thing, and won't be able to test it
>until I roll it on the road in a couple of weeks, but here's the
>reason I don't think it is the case: During all of the time when the
>pump was running with the engine on, the fittings all stayed cold. Not
>hot, not warm, but cold to the touch. When I pulled the top off the
>pump (engine was shut down), the coolant that came out of the intake
>side was hot, and the brass top became almost too hot to touch. So, I
>have to assume that the coolant was not flowing (valve closed or
>blockage) and that if it had, it would have been hot.
>>
>> On 3/15/2008 at 6:40 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:
>>
>> >I don't know the system other than reading your posts. Never had any
>> >trouble. Apparently, mine is the same or very similar. I have two gate
>> >valves in the engine bay which I leave open. If the water to the front
>> >chassis heater through the gate valves requires the engine
>thermostats to
>> >be open, I would not think 160 degrees would open the engine
>> >thermostats,(they are typically 180 but could be 170 by owners choice),
>> >hence no hot water to the heater. I will snoop around my coach tomorrow
>> >and see where those gate valve lines connect. I would bet after the
>> >thermostats.
>> >Just throwing darts.
>> >Leroy Eckert
>> >1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
>> >Dahlonega, GA
>> >Royale Conversion
>> >
>> >Don Bradner wrote:
>> >Well, it is back to the drawing board. The valve has been removed and
>> >replaced, and the voltage tested. What I learned:
>> >
>> > The valve up front is a normally-open valve, closed by power
>coming from
>> >the timing circuit. Plus 12 volts is fed down to the valve, then back
>> >through another wire to (somewhere) that gets power to the #12
>relay. When
>> >the relay is powered, there is no power to the circulation pump or the
>> >Sporlan valve.
>> >
>> > So, power on, both valves are closed, one by the presence of
>power, the
>> >other by the absence of power, and the pump is off.
>> >
>> > When the valve was re-installed I left the power connection off,
>so the
>> >valve was open (bench test had shown it working, and it was left in the
>> >open position). When the key was turned on, the Sporlan opened, and the
>> >pump ran continuously. The pump never faltered, but nothing in the
>system
>> >got even warm to the touch (outside temp in the 40s, engine about
>160).
>> >
>> > I pulled the top of the pump off and managed to lose about 4
>gallons of
>> >coolant in the process - certainly the supply side of the pump is
>> >unobstructed! Replaced the gasket and reassembled, after
>ascertaining that
>> >the pump runs well and there is no damage to any of the impellor
>blades.
>> >
>> > Both gate valves are wide open, which I assume is the correct setting
>> >(and I presume they should have been closed before I messed with
>the pump!)
>> >
>> > Looking for new possiblities, if anyone has any ideas.
>> >
>> > Don Bradner
>> > 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
>> > Eureka, CA
>> >
>> > On 3/15/2008 at 5:52 AM Gregory OConnor wrote:
>> >
>> > >If you cant remove the valve maybe try and bypass it to see that
>> > >that is the problem first???? KevinMk did that with a remote air
>> > >regulator or somthing????
>> > >GregoryO'Connor
>> > >94ptRomolandCa
>> > >
>> > >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
>> > > wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> My concern is that the front valve may be the plug in the loop, if
>> > >it is not opening. Temperature of the engine is not an issue - I ran
>> > >it at idle today up to about 160 so that I would have it warm enough
>> > >to be sure to feel the heat. All lines stayed cold, including the
>> > >top of the pump, until I allowed the pump to run open via the
>> > >dismantled Sporlan. Only took a couple of quarts of coolant spilled
>> > >to heat up everything through the pump to the valve.
>> > >>
>> > >> On 3/15/2008 at 4:25 AM Gregory OConnor wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> >Could be the pump works when not held against a closed loop????
>> > >maybe
>> > >> >the return line is simply plugged up. or your fan is staying on,
>> > >and
>> > >> >the detroit isnt getting hot??
>> > >> >
>> > >> >The camera trick is one CurtS taught me to do. I have even taken
>> > >10
>> > >> >meg picks of part labels then was able to read them on the
>> > >computer
>> > >> >screen.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >When you look at all the controls and appliances exposed to the
>> > >> >weather on these rigs it is a wonder that anything works.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >GregoryO'Connor
>> > >> >94ptRomolandCa
>> > >>
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >------------------------------------
>> > >
>> > >Yahoo! Groups Links
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >---------------------------------
>> >Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
>>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Chassis heat problems - sfedeli3 - 03-16-2008 05:41

Good luck! I sure hope it fixes your problem. I was so darn confounded
with mine that I eventually gave up and just listened to Kelly
complain about cold feet. Finding the dropped gate was purely
accidental. The R&R on the water pump was just some "preventative"
maintenance that I had elected to do.

-- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
wrote:
>
> Shane, that's a new one, thanks!
>
> Don Bradner
> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> Eureka, CA
>
> On 3/16/2008 at 11:13 AM sfedeli3 wrote:
>
> >Hi Don,
> >
> > My guess is that one of your gate valves "dropped". Even though the
> > valve handle is turning, the inner gate is not lifting. My front heat
> >circuit did not work for 3 years. Tried flushing the entire loop,
> >replacing sporlans, relays, dash switches, circulating pump and still
> >no heat. Finally, removed the gate valve when I pulled the water pump
> >to replace it and saw that the gate was in the down position. The
> >inner threads had eroded and when you rotated the handle, nothing
> >would happen to the gate. I've replaced 2 of the 4 valves with ball
> >valves.
> >
> >Shane Fedeli
> >85PT40
> >Hershey, PA
> >

Chassis heat problems - Don Bradner - 03-16-2008 07:45

Three questions:

Why replace the valve at all, rather than a straight-through?

Did the handle still come to a stop at each end of travel (mine do)?

Where do you drain the coolant in order to get it low enough to remove the
valves?

On 3/16/2008 at 4:41 PM sfedeli3 wrote:

>Good luck! I sure hope it fixes your problem. I was so darn confounded
>with mine that I eventually gave up and just listened to Kelly
>complain about cold feet. Finding the dropped gate was purely
>accidental. The R&R on the water pump was just some "preventative"
>maintenance that I had elected to do.
>
>-- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> wrote:
>>
>> Shane, that's a new one, thanks!
>>
>> Don Bradner
>> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
>> Eureka, CA
>>
>> On 3/16/2008 at 11:13 AM sfedeli3 wrote:
>>
>> >Hi Don,
>> >
>> > My guess is that one of your gate valves "dropped". Even though the
>> > valve handle is turning, the inner gate is not lifting. My front heat
>> >circuit did not work for 3 years. Tried flushing the entire loop,
>> >replacing sporlans, relays, dash switches, circulating pump and still
>> >no heat. Finally, removed the gate valve when I pulled the water pump
>> >to replace it and saw that the gate was in the down position. The
>> >inner threads had eroded and when you rotated the handle, nothing
>> >would happen to the gate. I've replaced 2 of the 4 valves with ball
>> >valves.
>> >
>> >Shane Fedeli
>> >85PT40
>> >Hershey, PA
>> >
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Chassis heat problems - Leroy Eckert - 03-16-2008 09:15

Shane may have a different theory.
Straight through-I guess the theory for the valves in the first place may be two fold. One to cut off the hot water to the heater core in summer. I never close mine and have not noticed any difference. The fans are off as are the slide switch. The hot air blows out of different vents than the chassis air. Two, if a leak developed forward of the engine the gate valves would stop the leak until repaired. "???????"

My valves bottom and top out.

I do not know where the best place to drain is located. I can see how I could change the valve that screws into the right thermostat housing without draining and not have much fluid loss. The other one on my coach is down low in front of the rear bumper and may be another issue.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
Dahlonega, GA
Royale Conversion

Don Bradner wrote:
Three questions:

Why replace the valve at all, rather than a straight-through?

Did the handle still come to a stop at each end of travel (mine do)?

Where do you drain the coolant in order to get it low enough to remove the valves?

On 3/16/2008 at 4:41 PM sfedeli3 wrote:

>Good luck! I sure hope it fixes your problem. I was so darn confounded
>with mine that I eventually gave up and just listened to Kelly
>complain about cold feet. Finding the dropped gate was purely
>accidental. The R&R on the water pump was just some
"preventative"
>maintenance that I had elected to do.
>
>-- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "Don Bradner"
>...> wrote:
>>
>> Shane, that's a new one, thanks!
>>
>> Don Bradner
>> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
>> Eureka, CA
>>
>> On 3/16/2008 at 11:13 AM sfedeli3 wrote:
>>
>> >Hi Don,
>> >
>> > My guess is that one of your gate valves "dropped". Even though the
>> > valve handle is turning, the inner gate is not lifting. My front heat
>> >circuit did not work for 3 years. Tried flushing the entire loop,
>> >replacing sporlans, relays, dash switches, circulating pump and still
>> >no heat. Finally, removed the gate valve when I pulled the water pump
>> >to replace
it and saw that the gate was in the down position. The
>> >inner threads had eroded and when you rotated the handle, nothing
>> >would happen to the gate. I've replaced 2 of the 4 valves with ball
>> >valves.
>> >
>> >Shane Fedeli
>> >85PT40
>> >Hershey, PA
>> >
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>




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Chassis heat problems - erniecarpet@... - 03-16-2008 10:12



Chris Fogleman, when you reply to a post, all that comes thru is the phrase, "sent from my blackberry". Try again, please.
Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Livingston, Montana