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+--- Thread: Water Heater (/showthread.php?tid=1224)
Water Heater - mariopatti1 - 01-23-2007 04:32
Thanks
Great help guys. I'm on hold till after Quartzsite. I hope it will
hold , everything dry this morning. Spoke to Stephen trying to decide
where to ship heater.Next stop for me should be Moab UT.Thanks again..
Mario 1985FC35 ( dry in the desert near Quartzsite )
Water Heater - Richard Hayden - 01-23-2007 06:54
Stephen,
Do any have a SS tank or are all alum.?
Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen Birtles
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 2:33 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: water heater
Force 10 works well also and is les expensive than seaward and we got them
Stephen 77fc35
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
krminyl@... wrote:
>
> I just went through this a few weeks ago (third time in 6 yrs).
Before you
> go through the R&R of the water heater, just make sure all of your
fittings
> are tight and secure. If the fittings aren't leaking, check the
T&P valve on
> the water heater (pressure release valve)...make sure it isn't
dripping.
>
> If you have determined that it is the water heater, time to change
it out.
> Either Atwood, or Seaward brands work well...Seaward is cheaper by
over a
> hundred bucks....corrosion is the culprit in the tanks...aluminum.
Seaward now
> replaces the drain spigot with a magnesium anode, and they claim
that the
> anode gets eaten away, not the tank...drawback....tough to drain the
tank
> without a drain spigot....something to consider when you are trying
to remove a
> water heater weighing around a hundred pounds from a place with VERY
limited
> working room.
>
> Use the stainless braided hoses when re-attaching the hoses...lots
easier to
> connect...also, make sure that the area where the heater goes is
completely
> dried out from the leak. Mold can grow quickly, and you'll never
get that
> musty smell to go away. I spray the area with a mixture of bleach
and water,
> and let it dry with the help of a little 110v muffin fan for a few
days or so.
> Make sure that the power is turned off when working back there with
the
> wiring, and keep lots of towels handy to soak up the coolant (heat
exchanger)
> and water when removing the hoses.
>
> I hope a FC is easier than my PT...I swore to my wife this last time
that
> the BB is going to be sold if my new water heater leaks, instead of
having to
> go through the headache of removing the water heater again (I went
with the
> anode, not the drain valve...that sucker is heavy!)
>
> Good luck....been there, done that (a few times).
>
> Kevin McKeown
> Yorba Linda, CA
> 1986 38' Pt
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Water Heater - krminyl@... - 01-23-2007 06:59
Tom,
Mine works just fine. I did, however, upgrade my water pump to the newer
5.7 gpm Shurflow, and got rid of the accumulator tank system. I've run both
the shower and galley sink at the same time without any drop in pressure.
Don't worry about it. If it doesn't meet your expectations in the spring time,
toss the braided hoses and go back with the crappy Qest piping...I don't think
you'll have to.
Kevin McKeown
Yorba Linda, CA (Nice 78 degrees)
1986 38' PT
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Water Heater - Stephen Birtles - 01-23-2007 09:55
Aluminum Tank with either a stainless or galvanized shroud
Stephen 77fc35
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Hayden"
>
> Stephen,
> Do any have a SS tank or are all alum.?
>
> Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Stephen Birtles
> To:
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 2:33 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: water heater
>
>
> Force 10 works well also and is les expensive than seaward and we
got them
> Stephen 77fc35
>
> --- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
krminyl@ wrote:
> >
> > I just went through this a few weeks ago (third time in 6 yrs).
> Before you
> > go through the R&R of the water heater, just make sure all of your
> fittings
> > are tight and secure. If the fittings aren't leaking, check the
> T&P valve on
> > the water heater (pressure release valve)...make sure it isn't
> dripping.
> >
> > If you have determined that it is the water heater, time to change
> it out.
> > Either Atwood, or Seaward brands work well...Seaward is cheaper by
> over a
> > hundred bucks....corrosion is the culprit in the tanks...aluminum.
> Seaward now
> > replaces the drain spigot with a magnesium anode, and they claim
> that the
> > anode gets eaten away, not the tank...drawback....tough to drain the
> tank
> > without a drain spigot....something to consider when you are trying
> to remove a
> > water heater weighing around a hundred pounds from a place with VERY
> limited
> > working room.
> >
> > Use the stainless braided hoses when re-attaching the hoses...lots
> easier to
> > connect...also, make sure that the area where the heater goes is
> completely
> > dried out from the leak. Mold can grow quickly, and you'll never
> get that
> > musty smell to go away. I spray the area with a mixture of bleach
> and water,
> > and let it dry with the help of a little 110v muffin fan for a few
> days or so.
> > Make sure that the power is turned off when working back there with
> the
> > wiring, and keep lots of towels handy to soak up the coolant (heat
> exchanger)
> > and water when removing the hoses.
> >
> > I hope a FC is easier than my PT...I swore to my wife this last time
> that
> > the BB is going to be sold if my new water heater leaks, instead of
> having to
> > go through the headache of removing the water heater again (I went
> with the
> > anode, not the drain valve...that sucker is heavy!)
> >
> > Good luck....been there, done that (a few times).
> >
> > Kevin McKeown
> > Yorba Linda, CA
> > 1986 38' Pt
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Water Heater - thomas_sorrentino - 01-23-2007 11:49
Kevin, or anybody that knows
I just recently spent a day hanging into the rear closet to install a
hot water tank bypass. I don't envy you replacing the whole heater
three times?? I used the stainless braided hoses to hook it back up.
My question and my concern was if they allowed enough flow through
with the reduced diameter? My coach is still winterized and I don't
want to un-winterize just to test it. Thanks
Tom Sorrentino
1987 PT38
Bedford Hills, NY
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, krminyl@... wrote:
>
> I just went through this a few weeks ago (third time in 6 yrs).
Before you
> go through the R&R of the water heater, just make sure all of your
fittings
> are tight and secure. If the fittings aren't leaking, check the
T&P valve on
> the water heater (pressure release valve)...make sure it isn't
dripping.
>
> If you have determined that it is the water heater, time to change
it out.
> Either Atwood, or Seaward brands work well...Seaward is cheaper by
over a
> hundred bucks....corrosion is the culprit in the
tanks...aluminum. Seaward now
> replaces the drain spigot with a magnesium anode, and they claim
that the
> anode gets eaten away, not the tank...drawback....tough to drain
the tank
> without a drain spigot....something to consider when you are trying
to remove a
> water heater weighing around a hundred pounds from a place with
VERY limited
> working room.
>
> Use the stainless braided hoses when re-attaching the hoses...lots
easier to
> connect...also, make sure that the area where the heater goes is
completely
> dried out from the leak. Mold can grow quickly, and you'll never
get that
> musty smell to go away. I spray the area with a mixture of bleach
and water,
> and let it dry with the help of a little 110v muffin fan for a few
days or so.
> Make sure that the power is turned off when working back there
with the
> wiring, and keep lots of towels handy to soak up the coolant (heat
exchanger)
> and water when removing the hoses.
>
> I hope a FC is easier than my PT...I swore to my wife this last
time that
> the BB is going to be sold if my new water heater leaks, instead of
having to
> go through the headache of removing the water heater again (I went
with the
> anode, not the drain valve...that sucker is heavy!)
>
> Good luck....been there, done that (a few times).
>
> Kevin McKeown
> Yorba Linda, CA
> 1986 38' Pt
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Water Heater - jaelou2 - 05-30-2007 08:21
Anyone got advice on replacing the 10 gal water heater on my 1983 PT-
35? I have not been able to find a direct replacement for the original
American Appliance Mor Flo marine 10 model. Anyone try a tankless?
Jim Elliott
jaelou2@...
1983 PT-35
Water Heater - Ralph L. Fullenwider - 05-30-2007 08:24
Jim:
Steve Birtles has a replacement and at a reasonable price. Or I have put in
Atwood EH11 heaters with a minimum of piping change.
Safe travels,
Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35
Duncan, Oklahoma
At 08:21 PM 5/30/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>Anyone got advice on replacing the 10 gal water heater on my 1983 PT-
>35? I have not been able to find a direct replacement for the original
>American Appliance Mor Flo marine 10 model. Anyone try a tankless?
>
>Jim Elliott
>jaelou2@...
>1983 PT-35
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Safe travels,
Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35
Duncan, Oklahoma
Water Heater - Ralph L. Fullenwider - 05-30-2007 08:27
Forgot to mention, while you have the heater out of that pocket, take the 3
way valve apart on the bench and clean and lube it, that way you won't have
to re visit that hole.
At 08:21 PM 5/30/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>Anyone got advice on replacing the 10 gal water heater on my 1983 PT-
>35? I have not been able to find a direct replacement for the original
>American Appliance Mor Flo marine 10 model. Anyone try a tankless?
>
>Jim Elliott
>jaelou2@...
>1983 PT-35
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Safe travels,
Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35
Duncan, Oklahoma
Water Heater - bloomas - 05-30-2007 08:40
----- Original Message -----
From: jaelou2
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 3:21 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] water heater
In March I replace mine with a Force 10 from West Mairne. $285.00 with
shipping. the shelf that covers the
heater had to be cut down a little.Other then that it was not to bad of a job.
Bob Loomas 1985 PT 36
Anyone got advice on replacing the 10 gal water heater on my 1983 PT-
35? I have not been able to find a direct replacement for the original
American Appliance Mor Flo marine 10 model. Anyone try a tankless?
Jim Elliott
jaelou2@...
1983 PT-35
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Water Heater - erniecarpet@... - 08-28-2007 06:04
Howard, it is located in the rear closet area behind a couple of panels.
Bluebird thought that was the most difficult place to access that thing- they
were correct on that.
Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Livingston, Mt
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]