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Door repairs - Printable Version

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Pages: 1 2 3 4

Door repairs - Pete Masterson - 06-13-2008 04:58

Rattles ... yes, I have 'em... Lots of 'em ...
The previous owner obviously had gone to some trouble chasing after rattles as I've found bits of foam tape on edges of window blinds, and extra leg installed under the dining table (good job, I didn't realize it was an extra until I pulled the table out to install the new flooring), and other efforts noticed on close inspection. However, dishes and other things in cabinets -- and the cabinets themselves -- along with basement items and many other things all can vibrate and rattle.
I'm not particularly pleased to find the occasional screw or washer laying on the floor -- having fallen from who knows where! 
But, so long as I can turn up the volume on the radio sufficiently, the rattling isn't too bothersome. 
The one variable I've noticed is that prevailing winds can affect the rattles/wind noises. If the wind is generally from the right, one set of windows sings is song of joy ... wind from another direction will set up a different tune. While our car is generally one of the least noisy -- I've grown accustomed to the songs of the road sung by my 'bird and I often consider the comment of a more experienced RVer who reminded me, it's like having a Richter 8 earthquake in your home each time you drive the coach...
Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
"aeonix1@mac.com"
On Jun 13, 2008, at 10:10 AM, David Brady wrote:

Let us know what you find out Pete. I assume that the plastic channel was
installed by Peninsula. It's possible that it was added later by BlueBird. Sure
does work. To cinch the screen I use a pen, or similarly skinny object, and
shift the plastic channel towards the rear of the bus. The channel then rides
up on the curvature of the window, at the corner, and forces the screen
upward "clamping" it into the window. My windows are silent. No high
pitch tones either. The trouble with this fix, as with any rattle fix, is that
we've just peeled the onion; i.e, those rattling screens cover up a lot of
other noises that you didn't know existed.

David Brady


Pete Masterson wrote:

That sounds like exactly what I need. There's a lot of rattling going on with a couple of the windows. But I also get wind noise (high-pitched whistle). Due to the age of my windows, the sealing simply seems to be worn down. It hadn't occurred to me before, but I'll contact Peninsula Glass and see if they have any ideas on how to renew the weather stripping.

Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
"aeonix1@mac.com"
On Jun 13, 2008, at 9:42 AM, David Brady wrote:

What makes noise on my side windows are the screens - they rattle
over bumps. I found that Penisula Glass put a plastic channel at the
base of my screens that slides in another extruded channel in the
window frame. The plastic piece is a few inches shorter than the window
frame. It's purpose is to cinch the screen into the extruded window
frame to prevent rattling. It works. If you don't have such an item,
you can probably get it from Peninsula. It's a simple matter to pop
out the screen, seat the plastic channel, and re-insert the screen.

David Brady,
'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but not the hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more bother, so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was getting had gone away.

I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by installing some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur' stuff -- stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16" sticky tape.
I have a bit of similar wind noise from the driver's side window as well. Installing a bunch more of the fur-stuff is on my to do list. 
These kinds of things are endless -- I have several of the other windows that need troubleshooting for rattles and wind noise as well. Difficulty there is that it helps to be able to sit/stand near the window and experiment to find exactly where the noise/air leak is coming from. I can't do that while I'm driving. Wife won't drive the bus. So I need to wait for a day when there's gale force winds blowing so I can fiddle with the windows while parked... (We don't get many of those days around here.)
Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
"aeonix1@mac.com"
On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:46 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry door comes 
from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent pressurizes 
the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear windows also) 2-
Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in reduction of seat 
noise.  I don't get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of 
those other ways.
Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side.  too much will lift 
the hinge and soon distort.  hollow strips seem to seal better with 
less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end up needing 
newspaper sticking out the jam. 
GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa
 --- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com", David Brady "dmb993@..." 
wrote:
Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a school bus
(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite good 
enough
on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true automotive
style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the vehicle
rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the weather 
stripping
adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with it.
David
'02 LXi, NC
Pete Masterson wrote:
I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't seem 
like 
there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature" (as in 
"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When my 
weather 
stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but then 
there 
were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the weather 
strip 
(with a profile that was quite similar to the original) then the 
door 
was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind noise was 
gone. 
I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a firm 
hand 
when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount of 
force, 
but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I 
chalk it 
up to being a Blue Bird quirk.
Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>
On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:
Pete, 
That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also 
no 
real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.
Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@... <"bbartonwx"@...>
    ------------------------------------------------------------
------------
    To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"
    <"WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com">
    From: aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>
    Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700
    Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs
    I'll note that the door on my coach must be shut with 
authority
    (like you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch
    properly. This was the situation with the original weather
    stripping and with the weather stripping I installed. Once 
the
    automotive latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt 
lines
    up properly. 
    If you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then 
when
    the automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead 
bolt is
    sufficient that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on 
which
    side of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push 
on
    the door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the
    solenoid will through the bolt.
    Pete Masterson
    '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
    El Sobrante CA
    aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>
    On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:
        Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push 
on the
        door to 
        line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as 
I cant
        see or 
        feel what is going on in the jamb.  I think someone 
replaced the 
        seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product. fat 
seals endup 
        causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn 
on the 
        lock.  One other issue is that the door on my 94 is 
alumnium and 
        swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some 
things to 
        consider with your project
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Door repairs - David Brady - 06-13-2008 05:10


Let us know what you find out Pete. I assume that the plastic channel
was

installed by Peninsula. It's possible that it was added later by
BlueBird. Sure

does work. To cinch the screen I use a pen, or similarly skinny object,
and

shift the plastic channel towards the rear of the bus. The channel then
rides

up on the curvature of the window, at the corner, and forces the screen

upward "clamping" it into the window. My windows are silent. No high

pitch tones either. The trouble with this fix, as with any rattle fix,
is that

we've just peeled the onion; i.e, those rattling screens cover up a lot
of

other noises that you didn't know existed.



David Brady





Pete Masterson wrote:


That sounds like exactly what I need. There's a lot of rattling
going on with a couple of the windows. But I also get wind noise
(high-pitched whistle). Due to the age of my windows, the sealing
simply seems to be worn down. It hadn't occurred to me before, but I'll
contact Peninsula Glass and see if they have any ideas on how to
renew the weather stripping.



Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
"aeonix1@mac.com"


On Jun 13, 2008, at 9:42 AM, David Brady wrote:


What makes noise on my side windows are the
screens - they rattle

over bumps. I found that Penisula Glass put a plastic channel at the

base of my screens that slides in another extruded channel in the

window frame. The plastic piece is a few inches shorter than the window

frame. It's purpose is to cinch the screen into the extruded window

frame to prevent rattling. It works. If you don't have such an item,

you can probably get it from Peninsula. It's a simple matter to pop

out the screen, seat the plastic channel, and re-insert the screen.



David Brady,

'02 LXi, NC



Pete Masterson wrote:


I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but
not the hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more
bother, so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was
getting had gone away.


I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by
installing some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur'
stuff -- stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16"
sticky tape.

I have a bit of similar wind noise from the driver's side
window as well. Installing a bunch more of the fur-stuff is on my to do
list. 

These kinds of things are endless -- I have several of the
other windows that need troubleshooting for rattles and wind noise as
well. Difficulty there is that it helps to be able to sit/stand near
the window and experiment to find exactly where the noise/air leak is
coming from. I can't do that while I'm driving. Wife won't drive the
bus. So I need to wait for a day when there's gale force winds blowing
so I can fiddle with the windows while parked... (We don't get many of
those days around here.)


Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
"aeonix1@mac.com"


On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:46 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:


The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry
door comes 
from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent
pressurizes 
the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear
windows also) 2-
Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in
reduction of seat 
noise.  I
don't get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of 
those other ways.

Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side.  too much will lift 
the hinge and soon distort.  hollow strips seem to seal
better with 
less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end
up needing 
newspaper sticking out the jam. 
GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

 --- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com",
David Brady "dmb993@..." 
wrote:

Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a
school bus
(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite
good 
enough
on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true
automotive
style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the
vehicle
rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the
weather 
stripping
adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with
it.

David
'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I've examined the door geometry very closely. It
doesn't seem 
like 
there's any real solution -- it appears to be a
"feature" (as in 
"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")...
When my 
weather 
stripping was failing, the door was easier to close,
but then 
there 
were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the
weather 
strip 
(with a profile that was quite similar to the
original) then the 
door 
was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind
noise was 
gone. 


I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to
using a firm 
hand 
when closing the door. It's not really an excessive
amount of 
force, 
but it is rather more than is required for most
vehicles. I 
chalk it 
up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>



On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

Pete, 
That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also 
no 
real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.

Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@... <"bbartonwx"@...>


    ------------------------------------------------------------
------------
    To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"
    <"WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com">
    From:
aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>
    Date:
Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700
    Subject:
Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

    I'll
note that the door on my coach must be shut with 
authority
    (like
you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch
    properly.
This was the situation with the original weather
    stripping
and with the weather stripping I installed. Once 
the
    automotive
latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt 
lines
    up
properly. 

    If
you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then 
when
    the
automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead 
bolt is
    sufficient
that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on 
which
    side
of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push 
on
    the
door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the
    solenoid
will through the bolt.

    Pete
Masterson
    '95
Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
    El
Sobrante CA
    aeonix1@...
<"aeonix1"@...>



    On
Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

        Ryan,
when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push 
on the
        door
to 
        line
up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as 
I cant
        see
or 
        feel
what is going on in the jamb.  I
think someone 
replaced the 
        seal
with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product.
fat 
seals endup 
        causing
the door operator to slam and place a hard turn 
on the 
        lock.  One other issue is that the
door on my 94 is 
alumnium and 
        swells
more than the steel frame in the sun. just some 
things to 
        consider
with your project



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Door repairs - Ryan Wright - 06-13-2008 08:08

On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 8:29 AM, Pete Masterson wrote:
>
> I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by installing some
> weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur' stuff -- stiff fibers
> about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16" sticky tape.

I did the same thing last year and I think it was at your suggestion,
Pete. Only cost me a couple of bucks and half an hour's worth of my
time to do the door & driver's windows and made a huge difference.
Really quieted things down.

-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92

Door repairs - Leroy Eckert - 06-13-2008 10:56

Boy, you got that right. Reality sets in every day it seems.
We are leaving tomorrow to attend a memorial service for my wife's father. While it was not unexpected it still ain't fun. It is a reminder that life is short, we should use the coach as much as possible, because the number will pop up at any time.
My father sat me down 50 years ago and said, "If you live a long life you will experience one or more funerals, if not it is a mute point." I think he was right.
The wife is doing well under the circumstances.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40 Royale
Dahlonega, GA
Royale Conversion
Still reality based

--- On Thu, 6/12/08, George Burke wrote:
From: George Burke

Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Door repairs
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, June 12, 2008, 10:41 PM



Leroy, Welcome to the club. When it all comes down to it, we are all pretty much Whacko. Also don't worry about hearing voices from time to time. A friend once told me that the time to WORRY is when you no longer hear them! LOL!!! George Burke 1977 FC31 Charlotte



On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 9:20 PM, Leroy Eckert <"jwasnewski@yahoo.com"> wrote:



As usual I am on the outside looking in on the lock deal but that is ok. I do not use mine even though it works because I am very catastrophic failure or natural disaster superstitious. I have a home fire escape plan which has a basement in a two story home with two exit doors other than the garage. In addition I have 6 smoke detectors.

In a building in case of fire do not use the elevator use the stairs.
In the bus, in case of fire the auto remote lock will not work. There is only one way out except for the windows and the sooner you are out the better. I keep a mini sledge in the bedroom just in case, to hell with depending on the windows to slide even though they do. You just cannot be to careful.


Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40 Royale
Dahlonega, GA
Smoke N Mirrors
Whacko and hear voices from time to time.


Ryan Wright <"ryanpwright@gmail.com"> wrote:
Two questions,

1. Where can I get a new door seal? Mine is old and falling apart.

2. Any tips on getting the remote lock to work reliably? Mine works
sporadically. Sometimes it's fine, other times it just refuses. Can't

be the switch because both the dash switches and the bedroom switch
work (or don't) at the same time. I want to install a keyless entry,
but need to make the door lock work reliably first.

Thank you,


-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92








Door repairs - Jack and Liz Pearce - 06-13-2008 11:03

Howdy, Pete.

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson wrote:
>
> I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but not the
> hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more bother,
> so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was getting had
> gone away.
>
> I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by installing
> some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur' stuff --
> stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16" sticky tape.
================================================================================​===
This "fur" stuff is what I need for our door window. What is the name of it and where did you get it?

TIA,
Jack Pearce
1993 WLWB 40 ft.
Summering in Buena Vista, CO

Door repairs - Pete Masterson - 06-13-2008 13:16

I was afraid someone would ask... I found it in the weather stripping department of my local hardware store (Orchard Supply Hardware). They have a variety of rubber, felt, vinyl, and 'furry-looking' weather stripping on adhesive backing -- usually in rolls in square boxes or plastic packs. 
I no longer have the original package of the furry stuff -- but I have a few inches left over. Since it's used for windows and a lot of other things, I'd imagine that Lowes or Home Depot would have something similar. The stuff I used was tan in color, but I've seen it in white and black in the past. It was in a display with the various rubber and felt general weather strip products.
Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
"aeonix1@mac.com"
On Jun 13, 2008, at 4:03 PM, Jack and Liz Pearce wrote:

Howdy, Pete.

<snip>

This "fur" stuff is what I need for our door window. What is the name of it  and where did you get it?

TIA,
Jack Pearce
1993 WLWB 40 ft.
Summering in Buena Vista, CO
 İmage 


Door repairs - Pete Masterson - 06-13-2008 13:18

Entry door and basement doors are operated with electric solenoids. I shudder to think that BB used air to drive the locks on the LXI.... especially since the 'air step' has proved to be so durable...
Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
"aeonix1@mac.com"
On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:31 PM, David Brady wrote:

Do you non-LXi owners have air locks on your door?

David
'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but not the hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more bother, so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was getting had gone away.

I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by installing some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur' stuff -- stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16" sticky tape.
I have a bit of similar wind noise from the driver's side window as well. Installing a bunch more of the fur-stuff is on my to do list. 
These kinds of things are endless -- I have several of the other windows that need troubleshooting for rattles and wind noise as well. Difficulty there is that it helps to be able to sit/stand near the window and experiment to find exactly where the noise/air leak is coming from. I can't do that while I'm driving. Wife won't drive the bus. So I need to wait for a day when there's gale force winds blowing so I can fiddle with the windows while parked... (We don't get many of those days around here.)
Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
"aeonix1@mac.com"
On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:46 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry door comes 
from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent pressurizes 
the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear windows also) 2-
Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in reduction of seat 
noise.  I don't get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of 
those other ways.
Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side.  too much will lift 
the hinge and soon distort.  hollow strips seem to seal better with 
less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end up needing 
newspaper sticking out the jam. 
GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa
 --- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com", David Brady "dmb993@..." 
wrote:
Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a school bus
(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite good 
enough
on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true automotive
style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the vehicle
rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the weather 
stripping
adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with it.
David
'02 LXi, NC
Pete Masterson wrote:
I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't seem 
like 
there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature" (as in 
"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When my 
weather 
stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but then 
there 
were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the weather 
strip 
(with a profile that was quite similar to the original) then the 
door 
was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind noise was 
gone. 
I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a firm 
hand 
when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount of 
force, 
but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I 
chalk it 
up to being a Blue Bird quirk.
Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>
On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:
Pete, 
That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also 
no 
real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.
Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@... <"bbartonwx"@...>
    ------------------------------------------------------------
------------
    To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"
    <"WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com">
    From: aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>
    Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700
    Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs
    I'll note that the door on my coach must be shut with 
authority
    (like you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch
    properly. This was the situation with the original weather
    stripping and with the weather stripping I installed. Once 
the
    automotive latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt 
lines
    up properly. 
    If you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then 
when
    the automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead 
bolt is
    sufficient that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on 
which
    side of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push 
on
    the door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the
    solenoid will through the bolt.
    Pete Masterson
    '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
    El Sobrante CA
    aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>
    On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:
        Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push 
on the
        door to 
        line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as 
I cant
        see or 
        feel what is going on in the jamb.  I think someone 
replaced the 
        seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product. fat 
seals endup 
        causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn 
on the 
        lock.  One other issue is that the door on my 94 is 
alumnium and 
        swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some 
things to 
        consider with your project
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Door repairs - David Brady - 06-13-2008 13:31


Do you non-LXi owners have air locks on your door?



David

'02 LXi, NC



Pete Masterson wrote:


I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but not
the hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more
bother, so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was
getting had gone away.


I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by
installing some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur'
stuff -- stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16"
sticky tape.

I have a bit of similar wind noise from the driver's side window
as well. Installing a bunch more of the fur-stuff is on my to do list. 

These kinds of things are endless -- I have several of the other
windows that need troubleshooting for rattles and wind noise as well.
Difficulty there is that it helps to be able to sit/stand near the
window and experiment to find exactly where the noise/air leak is
coming from. I can't do that while I'm driving. Wife won't drive the
bus. So I need to wait for a day when there's gale force winds blowing
so I can fiddle with the windows while parked... (We don't get many of
those days around here.)


Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
"aeonix1@mac.com"


On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:46 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:


The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry door
comes 
from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent
pressurizes 
the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear windows
also) 2-
Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in reduction of
seat 
noise.  I don't
get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of 
those other ways.

Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side.  too much will lift 
the hinge and soon distort. 
hollow strips seem to seal better with 
less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end up
needing 
newspaper sticking out the jam. 
GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

 --- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com",
David Brady "dmb993@..." 
wrote:

Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a school
bus
(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite good 
enough
on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true automotive
style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the
vehicle
rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the weather 
stripping
adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with it.

David
'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't
seem 
like 
there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature"
(as in 
"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When
my 
weather 
stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but
then 
there 
were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the
weather 
strip 
(with a profile that was quite similar to the original)
then the 
door 
was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind
noise was 
gone. 


I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a
firm 
hand 
when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount
of 
force, 
but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I 
chalk it 
up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>



On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

Pete, 
That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also 
no 
real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.

Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@... <"bbartonwx"@...>


    ------------------------------------------------------------
------------
    To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"
    <"WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com">
    From:
aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>
    Date:
Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700
    Subject:
Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

    I'll
note that the door on my coach must be shut with 
authority
    (like
you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch
    properly.
This was the situation with the original weather
    stripping
and with the weather stripping I installed. Once 
the
    automotive
latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt 
lines
    up
properly. 

    If you
try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then 
when
    the
automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead 
bolt is
    sufficient
that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on 
which
    side of
the door you're on, you either have to pull or push 
on
    the door
to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the
    solenoid
will through the bolt.

    Pete
Masterson
    '95 Blue
Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
    El
Sobrante CA
    aeonix1@...
<"aeonix1"@...>



    On Jun
11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

        Ryan,
when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push 
on the
        door
to 
        line
up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as 
I cant
        see
or 
        feel
what is going on in the jamb.  I
think someone 
replaced the 
        seal
with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product.
fat 
seals endup 
        causing
the door operator to slam and place a hard turn 
on the 
        lock.  One other issue is that the
door on my 94 is 
alumnium and 
        swells
more than the steel frame in the sun. just some 
things to 
        consider
with your project



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Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 - Release
Date: 
6/12/2008 4:58 PM





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Door repairs - Don Bradner - 06-13-2008 13:40

In a similar discussion in May of last year I posted:

The product used was "Ace Pile Weatherstrip" number 52210. 3/16H pile, 1/4W,
adhesive back. 17 feet was $10 at a large Ace in Kelso, WA.

On 6/13/2008 at 6:16 PM Pete Masterson wrote:

>I was afraid someone would ask... I found it in the weather stripping
>department of my local hardware store (Orchard Supply Hardware). They
>have a variety of rubber, felt, vinyl, and 'furry-looking' weather
>stripping on adhesive backing -- usually in rolls in square boxes or
>plastic packs.
>
>I no longer have the original package of the furry stuff -- but I
>have a few inches left over. Since it's used for windows and a lot of
>other things, I'd imagine that Lowes or Home Depot would have
>something similar. The stuff I used was tan in color, but I've seen
>it in white and black in the past. It was in a display with the
>various rubber and felt general weather strip products.
>
>Pete Masterson
>'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
>El Sobrante CA
>aeonix1@...
>
>
>
>On Jun 13, 2008, at 4:03 PM, Jack and Liz Pearce wrote:
>
>> Howdy, Pete.
>>
>> <snip>
>>
>> This "fur" stuff is what I need for our door window. What is the
>> name of it and where did you get it?
>>
>> TIA,
>> Jack Pearce
>> 1993 WLWB 40 ft.
>> Summering in Buena Vista, CO
>>

Door repairs - David Brady - 06-13-2008 15:11


That's fascinating! No wonder you guys are all complaining about

loud air noise around your entry way door. BB fixed this in '99

with the air-lock door. (I know Leroy is gonna love this...). My

entry way door has an air solenoid at the top on the non-hinge

side that propels a steel wedge thru a slot on the top of the door.

Every now and then I ask my wife why the door is making soooo

muuuuch noise, only to realize I forgot to engage the air-lock. I

thought, surely those wonderful, and "superior", Wanderlodges of

yesteryear have air-locks, cause this contraption completely wreaks

of yesterdays-style solutions; I thought it was standard Wanderlodge

fare. Silly me. Go get one, they work. I engage it, it slams down

with an authoritative "clunk" and my door is cinched close to the

steel coach body - no noise. I assume if I lose air the lock
dissengages,

yikes, I better test that!



David Brady

'02 LXi, NC



Pete Masterson wrote:


Entry door and basement doors are operated with electric
solenoids. I shudder to think that BB used air to drive the locks on
the LXI.... especially since the 'air step' has proved to be so
durable...



Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
"aeonix1@mac.com"


On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:31 PM, David Brady wrote:


Do you non-LXi owners have air locks on your
door?



David

'02 LXi, NC



Pete Masterson wrote:


I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but
not the hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more
bother, so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was
getting had gone away.


I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by
installing some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur'
stuff -- stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16"
sticky tape.

I have a bit of similar wind noise from the driver's side
window as well. Installing a bunch more of the fur-stuff is on my to do
list. 

These kinds of things are endless -- I have several of the
other windows that need troubleshooting for rattles and wind noise as
well. Difficulty there is that it helps to be able to sit/stand near
the window and experiment to find exactly where the noise/air leak is
coming from. I can't do that while I'm driving. Wife won't drive the
bus. So I need to wait for a day when there's gale force winds blowing
so I can fiddle with the windows while parked... (We don't get many of
those days around here.)


Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
"aeonix1@mac.com"


On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:46 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:


The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry
door comes 
from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent
pressurizes 
the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear
windows also) 2-
Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in
reduction of seat 
noise.  I
don't get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of 
those other ways.

Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side.  too much will lift 
the hinge and soon distort.  hollow strips seem to seal
better with 
less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end
up needing 
newspaper sticking out the jam. 
GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

 --- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com",
David Brady "dmb993@..." 
wrote:

Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a
school bus
(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite
good 
enough
on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true
automotive
style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the
vehicle
rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the
weather 
stripping
adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with
it.

David
'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I've examined the door geometry very closely. It
doesn't seem 
like 
there's any real solution -- it appears to be a
"feature" (as in 
"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")...
When my 
weather 
stripping was failing, the door was easier to close,
but then 
there 
were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the
weather 
strip 
(with a profile that was quite similar to the
original) then the 
door 
was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind
noise was 
gone. 


I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to
using a firm 
hand 
when closing the door. It's not really an excessive
amount of 
force, 
but it is rather more than is required for most
vehicles. I 
chalk it 
up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>



On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

Pete, 
That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also 
no 
real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.

Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@... <"bbartonwx"@...>


    ------------------------------------------------------------
------------
    To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"
    <"WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com">
    From:
aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>
    Date:
Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700
    Subject:
Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

    I'll
note that the door on my coach must be shut with 
authority
    (like
you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch
    properly.
This was the situation with the original weather
    stripping
and with the weather stripping I installed. Once 
the
    automotive
latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt 
lines
    up
properly. 

    If
you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then 
when
    the
automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead 
bolt is
    sufficient
that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on 
which
    side
of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push 
on
    the
door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the
    solenoid
will through the bolt.

    Pete
Masterson
    '95
Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
    El
Sobrante CA
    aeonix1@...
<"aeonix1"@...>



    On
Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

        Ryan,
when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push 
on the
        door
to 
        line
up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as 
I cant
        see
or 
        feel
what is going on in the jamb.  I
think someone 
replaced the 
        seal
with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product.
fat 
seals endup 
        causing
the door operator to slam and place a hard turn 
on the 
        lock.  One other issue is that the
door on my 94 is 
alumnium and 
        swells
more than the steel frame in the sun. just some 
things to 
        consider
with your project



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Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 -
Release Date: 
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Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 - Release Date: 6/12/2008 4:58 PM






No virus found in this incoming message.

Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 - Release Date: 6/12/2008 4:58 PM