From: freewill2008
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: GFI Faults and interior light replacemts
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, January 6, 2009, 1:40 AM

--- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "timvasqz"
wrote:

> Bob, did they work before and now brighter and more efficient?

BG: Yes.

> can you see as good under the old style as under the Stephen

Supplied Ballast.

BG: With new tubes and ballasts the dim fixtures became as bright as

the ones that had been working right.

> Just went out and took a look at my bus lights and I need all of

> them on to see as well as my home office with 280w worth of

> incandescent only.

BG: They run dim in winter if the bus is cool inside. They warm up

and get brighter after a few minutes. If all the fixures are the

same brightness (or dimness) you may be seeing the effect of cold.

They also run dim with old tubes and failing ballasts. I don't think

the interior lights are designed to be "office bright". These are

luxury coaches designed for a life of leisure y'know

> then the term Ballast is just a reference we use in place

> of 'thingamajig' ,

BG: "Ballast" is the name for the old 110AC coil type. The term has

stuck for 12V and 110V solid-state types.

> with the cooler StephenStyle it may be that the tape insulate the

> metal case from heating the thingamajig.

BG: The orginal 12V solid state ballasts in my fixtures were encased

in solid plastic. The designers were not worried about heat.

Bob Griesel 'FC31 WLII WA

From: timvasqz Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: GFI Faults and interior light replacemts
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, January 5, 2009, 9:04 PM

Curious why folks use you for balast purchase. is it unique to a

12v light over the 110v fluorescent light of a typical home

appliance. My assumption is the Wanderlodge fluorescent light are

12v???? never had an issue or so I think they would not get brighter

by replacing one. I did notice that DickH had brighter F lights at

Q'08. I also wondered if the balast control amperage would a

balast choice be used to balance the juice to control motor speed or

light intensity inplace of a power hog rehostat?



Gregory ofTim&Greg



--- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Stephen Birtles"

wrote:

>

> it makes your lights light

> or balances your ship

>

>

> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "timvasqz"
wrote:

> >

> > Steve, what does a ballast do?

> > GregoryO'Connor ofTim&Greg

> > 94ptCa

> >

> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Stephen Birtles"

> > wrote:

> > >

> > > \the ballasts do not run hot

> > > Stephen

> > > dupreeproducts. com

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, GARY MINKER



> > > wrote:

> > > >

> > > > Doublesided tape on a balast could be a fire hazard if the

balast

> > > runs hot. Tempting as it may be, I would use screws.

> > > >

> > > > --- On Mon, 1/5/09, Hugh Turner wrote:

> > > >

> > > > From: Hugh Turner

> > > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: GFI Faults and interior

light

> > replacemts

> > > > To: WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com

> > > > Date: Monday, January 5, 2009, 6:10 AM

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups.

com, "jcpryn"

> > > wrote:

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > Hello,

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > Helping a friend with his BB 84fc35' and out of the blue he

> > started

> > > >

> > > > getting immediate ground faults. We shut off all of the

> > breakers and

> > > >

> > > > still getting the fault. plugged the cord in by it's self

and

> > no

> > > >

> > > > faults, but as soon as it's plugged into the BB the GFI

trips.

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > Any ideas?

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > thanks

> > > >

> > > > John

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > John

> > > >

> > > > Last year on a trip to MS 110vac worked fine on genset.

When I

> > got to

> > > >

> > > > campground as soon as I plugged into their 50 amp shore

power I

> > got a

> > > >

> > > > hot to neutral short did the simple things first. 1. Had

> > campground

> > > >

> > > > check their side 2. went through some of the checks you did

3.

> > took

> > > >

> > > > out the connection box to check it ok 4. called plant for

help.

> > When I

> > > >

> > > > described the problem Jessie told me they had problems on

the PT

> > with

> > > >

> > > > water and other stuff getting on the contacts The had a

repair

> > the did

> > > >

> > > > to correct the problem told me he lets parts know I may need

a

> > switch

> > > >

> > > > ($800 est). After aboout a 1/2 a day in MS in August I

finally of

> > > >

> > > > removing seat, carpeting and all the other stuff on top or

> > around the

> > > >

> > > > access plate was able to get the switch out. Once it was out

the

> > > >

> > > > safetline module was the of the problem it had shorted. I

> > removed it

> > > >

> > > > have not had any problems since, just make sure you have a

way

> > > >

> > > > (checklist, bright color cord, remove before flight streamer

> > etc) to

> > > >

> > > > remind you that you are on shore power before you pull out

> > taking the

> > > >

> > > > park power system with you. The red and yellow light are not

the

> > ones

> > > >

> > > > I am talking about they get their input from the module I am

> > talking

> > > >

> > > > about. I do not know where is located it the FC itthe one

you

> > rotate

> > > >

> > > > to select the input voltage good luck hope this works

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > Hugh Turner

> > > >

> > > > 84 PT 40

> > > >

> > >

> >

>

From: timvasqz Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: GFI Faults and interior light replacemts
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, January 5, 2009, 11:46 PM

Bob, did they work before and now brighter and more efficient? can

you see as good under the old style as under the StephenSupplied

Ballast.



Just went out and took a look at my bus lights and I need all of

them on to see as well as my home office with 280w worth of

incandescent only.



then the term Ballast is just a reference we use inplace

of 'thingamajig' , I agree it sounds more professional to use

Ballast. With the old style heat makers, mounting metal to metal

may have held the function of heat sink to cool the electronics.

with the cooler StephenStyle it may be that the tape insulate the

metal case from heating the thingamajig.



GregoryO'Connor ofTim&Greg

94ptRomolandCa



--- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "freewill2008"

wrote:

>

> 110 AC ballasts have only one job to do: Place a coil (some

> inductance) across the leads to the tube. This offsets the

> capacative nature of the tube and lets it draw enuf AC power to

light

> up. Modern solid-state ballasts immitate the coil but more

> efficiently.

>

> The 12 volt "ballast" is more than a ballast. Each one is also an

> inverter. 12 volts is first converted to 100+ volts and then fed

to

> the tube while simulating the effect of the coil as with a 110

> ballast.

>

> I replaced about half the ballasts in our 84FC with units supplied

by

> Stephen 5 years ago. The fixtures have worked fine since.

>

> Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII WA

>

> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Don Bradner"

> wrote:

> >

> > Definitely 12 volt ballasts are different from 110 volt ballasts.

> >

> > The issue here, though, is two different types of

> ballasts, "magnetic" vs electronic. I've never looked at my

ballasts,

> but given their age I expect they are magnetic (coil transformers

> involved). That type is about 70% efficient, with the other 30%

being

> generated as heat.

> >

> > Electronic ballasts like Stephen sells are typically around 95%

> efficient, with 5% lost as heat.

> >

> > I converted my retail store from magnetic to electronic a number

of

> years ago - lower heat, lower total power use, and no more

dangerous

> smoking ballasts!

> >

> > On 1/6/2009 at 2:04 AM timvasqz wrote:

> >

> > >Curious why folks use you for balast purchase. is it unique to

a

> > >12v light over the 110v fluorescent light of a typical home

> > >appliance. My assumption is the Wanderlodge fluorescent light

are

> > >12v???? never had an issue or so I think they would not get

> brighter

> > >by replacing one. I did notice that DickH had brighter F lights

at

> > >Q'08. I also wondered if the balast control amperage would a

> > >balast choice be used to balance the juice to control motor

speed

> or

> > >light intensity inplace of a power hog rehostat?

> > >

> > >

> > >Gregory ofTim&Greg

> > >

> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Stephen Birtles"

> > > wrote:

> > >>

> > >> it makes your lights light

> > >> or balances your ship

> > >>

> > >>

> > >> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "timvasqz"


> > >wrote:

> > >> >

> > >> > Steve, what does a ballast do?

> > >> > GregoryO'Connor ofTim&Greg

> > >> > 94ptCa

> > >> >

> > >> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Stephen Birtles"

> > >> > wrote:

> > >> > >

> > >> > > \the ballasts do not run hot

> > >> > > Stephen

> > >> > > dupreeproducts. com

> > >> > >

> > >> > >

> > >> > >

> > >> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, GARY MINKER

> > >

> > >> > > wrote:

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > Doublesided tape on a balast could be a fire hazard if

the

> > >balast

> > >> > > runs hot. Tempting as it may be, I would use screws.

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > --- On Mon, 1/5/09, Hugh Turner wrote:

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > From: Hugh Turner

> > >> > > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: GFI Faults and interior

> > >light

> > >> > replacemts

> > >> > > > To: WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com

> > >> > > > Date: Monday, January 5, 2009, 6:10 AM

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups.

> > >com, "jcpryn"

> > >> > > wrote:

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > Hello,

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > Helping a friend with his BB 84fc35' and out of the

blue

> he

> > >> > started

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > getting immediate ground faults. We shut off all of

the

> > >> > breakers and

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > still getting the fault. plugged the cord in by it's

> self

> > >and

> > >> > no

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > faults, but as soon as it's plugged into the BB the

GFI

> > >trips.

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > Any ideas?

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > thanks

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > John

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > John

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > Last year on a trip to MS 110vac worked fine on

genset.

> > >When I

> > >> > got to

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > campground as soon as I plugged into their 50 amp shore

> > >power I

> > >> > got a

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > hot to neutral short did the simple things first. 1.

Had

> > >> > campground

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > check their side 2. went through some of the checks you

> did

> > >3.

> > >> > took

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > out the connection box to check it ok 4. called plant

for

> > >help.

> > >> > When I

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > described the problem Jessie told me they had problems

on

> > >the PT

> > >> > with

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > water and other stuff getting on the contacts The had a

> > >repair

> > >> > the did

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > to correct the problem told me he lets parts know I may

> need

> > >a

> > >> > switch

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > ($800 est). After aboout a 1/2 a day in MS in August I

> > >finally of

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > removing seat, carpeting and all the other stuff on top

or

> > >> > around the

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > access plate was able to get the switch out. Once it

was

> out

> > >the

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > safetline module was the of the problem it had

shorted. I

> > >> > removed it

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > have not had any problems since, just make sure you

have a

> > >way

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > (checklist, bright color cord, remove before flight

> streamer

> > >> > etc) to

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > remind you that you are on shore power before you pull

out

> > >> > taking the

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > park power system with you. The red and yellow light

are

> not

> > >the

> > >> > ones

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > I am talking about they get their input from the module

I

> am

> > >> > talking

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > about. I do not know where is located it the FC itthe

one

> > >you

> > >> > rotate

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > to select the input voltage good luck hope this works

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > Hugh Turner

> > >> > > >

> > >> > > > 84 PT 40

> > >> > > >

> > >> > >

> > >> >

> > >>

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >----------- --------- --------- -------

> > >

> > >Yahoo! Groups Links

> > >

> > >

> > >

> >

>