50a electrical plugs? - Printable Version +- Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum (http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com) +-- Forum: Yahoo Groups Archive (/forumdisplay.php?fid=61) +--- Forum: WanderlodgeForum (/forumdisplay.php?fid=63) +--- Thread: 50a electrical plugs? (/showthread.php?tid=6594) |
50a electrical plugs? - Wilhelmus Schreurs - 04-15-2008 14:29 Voltage depends on the load.
With no load the voltage should be about the same as the house. Load it up to 45 amps or so, then take the reading, that is when it really counts. Bill 84 FC 35 SB "$quanderlodge" Terrace, B.C. Canada ----- Original Message ---- From: Pete Masterson To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 7:24:47 PM Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 50a electrical plugs? The easy way is to check the voltage in the coach. I have two 30-amp cords (end to end) to reach my coach. The voltage in the coach is within 1 volt of the voltage in the house (probably within the tolerance of my relatively cheap multi-meter) . You're probably just fine if you make the extension cord. Pete Masterson '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 El Sobrante CA "aeonix1@mac.com" On Apr 1 .
between 0000-00-00 and 9999-99-99 Looking for the perfect gift?[/url] Give the gift of Flickr! 50a electrical plugs? - Gregory OConnor - 04-15-2008 16:25 Its good to remember that if you are to hook an extention cord to a pedistal or an outlet, the wire gauge to the outlet/pedistal from the E meter should take into account the length of the extention cord. I have a 50 amp pedistal that is 500 foot away from my main panel and 150 from a sub. I droped in a 240/30 amp breaker (60 amp total) to trip early and not overtax the long run. GregoryO'Connor 94ptRomolandCa --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright" > > Hi Pete, > > > 50 Amp cable carries a _lot_ of electrical potential, so you do need to be > > very careful with your choices. Using romex (or romex-like products) for an > > extension cord may seem like a practical idea > > Oh no - I was NOT planning on using romex for an extension cord. > Electrical codes exist for a reason and I follow them. My comment on > romex referred to moving the outlet. My 50 amp service is on the side > of my house. I need to move it about 20 feet further down the house so > my existing Wanderlodge cord will reach. I've been told I shouldn't > make a 50 foot long, 50 amp cord, because of problems with voltage > drop. > > I, however, don't see the difference between these two scenarios: > > 1. Run an additional 20 feet of romex, in the wall of my house, to > move the outlet, then connect my 30 foot cord. > > 2. Leave the outlet where it is and just make a 50 foot cord. > > As far as electrical potential is concerned, if the wire gauge is > equal, seems the same thing to me, and number 2 is certainly easier. > > > The National Electrical Code requires buried > > wires and/or use of conduit for an exposed location. > > Yep, and the 30 amp feed I installed for my greenhouse is THWN in > buried conduit. > > > Finally, you might 'get away' with using BX (armored) flexible conduit for > > your "extension cord", although I'd be concerned that direct sun exposure > > would overheat the wires. Obviously, driving over it with your coach is very > > likely to destroy it. > > No - I plan to use the same type of material used for the factory > extension cord. I'm doing this by the book. Also, I never drive over > my extension cords - I always move them out of the way before moving > the coach. > > > So, my question is, Is that really an output plug? > > It's possible. I don't have anything like that on my '86. Just the > standard 50 amp input, and a pair of 30 amp inputs (one for each leg), > and the various cord sets. That output plug would be a real handy > feature, though. > > > (Since we've only had one extended (a few hours) power outage here in the > > past 25 years, needing the backup power from the generator seems fairly > > remote. -- and I can 'tap into' the coach 120 vac system, should the need > > arise, with extension cords fed from normal outlets -- that would be > > sufficient to keep the home refrigerator and freezer 'going' to prevent > > spoiled food. I already have sufficient extension cords to handle that > > possibility.) > > Yeah - my area has very stable power as well. The longest power > outages last just a few hours and come only every few years. The last > one was last winter, first power outage since I've had my coach. We > just abandoned the house, fired up the generator and watched movies in > the coach until the power came back. If it would have been too long, > I'd have powered my deep freezer with an extension cord off the coach > until power returned, but I've lived here nearly 30 years and there > hasn't once been a power outage long enough to spoil food. > > -Ryan > '86 PT-40 8V92 > 50a electrical plugs? - Gregory OConnor - 04-15-2008 17:04 Just because you are using a 50 amp plug, you dont need to mount a 50 amp fuse. --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor" > > Its good to remember that if you are to hook an extention cord to a > pedistal or an outlet, the wire gauge to the outlet/pedistal from > the E meter should take into account the length of the extention > cord. I have a 50 amp pedistal that is 500 foot away from my main > panel and 150 from a sub. I droped in a 240/30 amp breaker (60 amp > total) to trip early and not overtax the long run. > > GregoryO'Connor > 94ptRomolandCa > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright" > > > > > Hi Pete, > > > > > 50 Amp cable carries a _lot_ of electrical potential, so you do > need to be > > > very careful with your choices. Using romex (or romex-like > products) for an > > > extension cord may seem like a practical idea > > > > Oh no - I was NOT planning on using romex for an extension cord. > > Electrical codes exist for a reason and I follow them. My comment > on > > romex referred to moving the outlet. My 50 amp service is on the > side > > of my house. I need to move it about 20 feet further down the > house so > > my existing Wanderlodge cord will reach. I've been told I shouldn't > > make a 50 foot long, 50 amp cord, because of problems with voltage > > drop. > > > > I, however, don't see the difference between these two scenarios: > > > > 1. Run an additional 20 feet of romex, in the wall of my house, to > > move the outlet, then connect my 30 foot cord. > > > > 2. Leave the outlet where it is and just make a 50 foot cord. > > > > As far as electrical potential is concerned, if the wire gauge is > > equal, seems the same thing to me, and number 2 is certainly > easier. > > > > > The National Electrical Code requires buried > > > wires and/or use of conduit for an exposed location. > > > > Yep, and the 30 amp feed I installed for my greenhouse is THWN in > > buried conduit. > > > > > Finally, you might 'get away' with using BX (armored) flexible > conduit for > > > your "extension cord", although I'd be concerned that direct sun > exposure > > > would overheat the wires. Obviously, driving over it with your > coach is very > > > likely to destroy it. > > > > No - I plan to use the same type of material used for the factory > > extension cord. I'm doing this by the book. Also, I never drive > over > > my extension cords - I always move them out of the way before > moving > > the coach. > > > > > So, my question is, Is that really an output plug? > > > > It's possible. I don't have anything like that on my '86. Just the > > standard 50 amp input, and a pair of 30 amp inputs (one for each > leg), > > and the various cord sets. That output plug would be a real handy > > feature, though. > > > > > (Since we've only had one extended (a few hours) power outage > here in the > > > past 25 years, needing the backup power from the generator seems > fairly > > > remote. -- and I can 'tap into' the coach 120 vac system, should > the need > > > arise, with extension cords fed from normal outlets -- that > would be > > > sufficient to keep the home refrigerator and freezer 'going' to > prevent > > > spoiled food. I already have sufficient extension cords to > handle that > > > possibility.) > > > > Yeah - my area has very stable power as well. The longest power > > outages last just a few hours and come only every few years. The > last > > one was last winter, first power outage since I've had my coach. We > > just abandoned the house, fired up the generator and watched > movies in > > the coach until the power came back. If it would have been too > long, > > I'd have powered my deep freezer with an extension cord off the > coach > > until power returned, but I've lived here nearly 30 years and there > > hasn't once been a power outage long enough to spoil food. > > > > -Ryan > > '86 PT-40 8V92 > > > 50a electrical plugs? - msksann - 04-16-2008 01:56 Ryan, I had to replace a missing 50 amp cord, and I found the original Hart-Arrow #7764 Hart-Lock connector, now Cooper Wiring Devices, 7764. I ordered it online at: http://www.electric-supplier.com/prod/cooper_wiring_devices/7764_w324123.php or http://tinyurl.com/4g2g9h It was drop shipped directly from Cooper, and arrived within 2 weeks. Price is now $119.90 + shipping. Pricy, but it is the right one, metal, heavy, well made, and it fits. Looks like it will last forever. Michael Kramer 86 PT-40 8V92 San Diego, CA --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright" > > Speaking of electrical connections, I have a bit of a dilemma: My > 50amp cord is not long enough to reach my service point. I have some > questions: > > 1. Where can I buy a 50 amp coach-side plug that will fit in the > outlet? I bought one that is "right" as far as the electrical contacts > are concerned, but the plug body was too thick and hit the "ceiling" > in the electrical hookup compartment. I don't want to steal the plug > off my factory cord - would prefer to keep that in the coach for > traveling and build a new cord I can leave at home. > > 2. Why doesn't anyone sell a 50 foot, 50 amp cord? I see lots of 50 > foot 30 amps but no 50ft/50a. Will I have a problem if I make one? I > understand voltage drop but I currently have my factory cord plugged > into a 25 foot, 50 amp extension cord, and it works fine. I have to > hide the connection point between the two cords under the coach to > keep it from getting wet if it rains, though, so the situation is not > ideal. > > 3. Alternatively, I am considering putting a 50 amp input receptacle > on the other side of the coach. I'd still want the factory receptacle > live, though. Any advice on how I might accomplish the tie in & where > to route wires? I'm betting I would need to install an auto-transfer > switch to make this safe and/or to code, as I know I can't just tie > two sets of wires to the same lugs. I'd have done this by now but I > can't even find how to access the existing wires feeding the coach > electrical panel. Where / how do they route to the connector? > > Lots of hard questions. Appreciate any advice. > > -Ryan > '86 PT-40 8V92 > 50a electrical plugs? - Ryan Wright - 04-17-2008 11:02 Thanks everyone! Really appreciate the responses, your information has made this project very easy now. -Ryan |