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6" SS EXHAUST STACK - Printable Version

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6" SS EXHAUST STACK - Wallace Craig - 12-04-2008 04:51

For us pore lawyer types; simple is the best solution. Do you know if the flap like I described is available that fits the coach that you and I have with 90 degree exhaust end?? I am going to be on South Padre Island for Jan & Feb and would like to keep water out.


Wallace Craig
95 WLWB 42
Azle, Texas

--- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:

From: Kurt Horvath
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 10:20 AM


Hi Wallace,
I looked into several options, the one I liked most was bi-metalic valves. That's a strip of metal that expands and contracts when heated and cooled. It's used in some muffler applications. When it's cold it leaves a gap over a hole when heated it contracts and covers the opening. Easy few parts automatic operation, simular to what you described. The current prototype can be modified in this manner. The electric valve can be removed and a flange can be put in it's place with any type of device from a bung with a plug to the exhaust dump valve to drain away the water. I wanted the trap to be capable of draining away an possible water flow that might be encountered. Five gallons a min. is most likly more than enough, unless that little son of gun Murphy shows up. L.O.L. Of course the rain cap will do the job but it's not a very attractive option, The 90 degree turn out pipe also works well but I've been trying to delete as many turns in the pipes as possible. The system that will be offered to the general public is a direct replacement of OEM parts for your coach, The photos that will be posted soon are of the exhaust going into my coach.
Kurt Horvath
95 PT 42
10AC
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig wrote:
>
> Kurt, I am probably the last person on earth that you should tale advise from about anything mechanical. Having said that; can you not install a flap at the end of the exhaust that is weighted to stay closed when the engine is not operating? I know I have seen it on truck applications.
> Keep Tennessee clean & green, maybe I will get back that way sometime soon. Fuel is $2.44 at Racetrack in Azle. Happy holidays.
> > > Wallace Craig
> 95 WLWB 42
> Azle, Texas
> > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:
> > From: Kurt Horvath
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 8:58 AM
> > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my exhaust build. I > should have some photos today rain permitting. > > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not fully > considered or researched. > > Some of the mods are a 90 degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree > miter cut with a rain visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom > inside curve of the turn out. This should keep most of the rain out. > > Not being able to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I > have built, two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack > with a rain cap. > > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished it up. > > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot from the > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with mufflers have > water traps and some have drains as well, small holes drilled into > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a muffler, for a straight > stack, so some sort of rain trap had to be created that would not > interfere with the exhaust gas flow and trap and drain rain > accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole can accumulate a lot of > water in a daily south Florida afternoon rain, day after day sooner > or later your going to fill the block with water. According to > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! Detroit used the words Catastrophic > Failure several times.
> > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the Home > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are looking at > is the drain section with the garden hose on full flow. 5 gallons per > min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. The section of tube on > the ground has been cut down to 6" long with a 3.5" electric exhaust > dump valve installed on a flange to open and close the water trap. At > this point it is manually operated by a rocker switch or a by a > remote key fob.
> > I'm working on a thermal activated switch that will close the valve > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects water > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it when parked > and close it before you crank up the motor > > Some of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and the > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to another > modification. > > Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of course someone spots a > glaring defect or error in my build. > > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach, > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she would > sitting for a while. > > Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, remarks, welcomed.
> > Currently this is a prototype for my coach, a direct replacement for > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It will be built Stainless Steel > and will be a direct bolt in application, to replace the OEM parts.
> > > > Kurt Horvath
> 95 PT 42
> 10AC
> > > ------------------------------------
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
>
------------------------------------
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6" SS EXHAUST STACK - robert nloomas - 12-04-2008 07:16

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig
wrote:
Place a bagie over it that real simple and cheap and of course a
little duck tap so it wont blow off.
Bob Loomas 1985 PT36
Harahan La
>
> For us pore lawyer types; simple is the best solution. Do you know
if the flap like I described is available that fits the coach that
you and I have with 90 degree exhaust end?? I am going to be on
South Padre Island for Jan & Feb and would like to keep water out.
>
>
> Wallace Craig
> 95 WLWB 42
> Azle, Texas
>
> --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:
>
> From: Kurt Horvath
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 10:20 AM
>
> Hi Wallace,
>
> I looked into several options, the one I liked most was bi-metalic
> valves. That's a strip of metal that expands and contracts when
> heated and cooled. It's used in some muffler applications. When
it's
> cold it leaves a gap over a hole when heated it contracts and
covers
> the opening. Easy few parts automatic operation, simular to what
you
> described. The current prototype can be modified in this manner.
The
> electric valve can be removed and a flange can be put in it's place
> with any type of device from a bung with a plug to the exhaust dump
> valve to drain away the water. I wanted the trap to be capable of
> draining away an possible water flow that might be encountered.
Five
> gallons a min. is most likly more than enough, unless that little
son
> of gun Murphy shows up. L.O.L. Of course the rain cap will do the
job
> but it's not a very attractive option, The 90 degree turn out pipe
> also works well but I've been trying to delete as many turns in the
> pipes as possible. The system that will be offered to the general
> public is a direct replacement of OEM parts for your coach, The
> photos that will be posted soon are of the exhaust going into my
> coach.
>
> Kurt Horvath
> 95 PT 42
> 10AC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig
> wrote:
> >
> > Kurt, I am probably the last person on earth that you should
tale
> advise from about anything mechanical. Having said that; can you
not
> install a flap at the end of the exhaust that is weighted to stay
> closed when the engine is not operating? I know I have seen it on
> truck applications.
> > Keep Tennessee clean & green, maybe I will get back that way
> sometime soon. Fuel is $2.44 at Racetrack in Azle.   Happy
holidays.
> >
> >
> > Wallace Craig
> > 95 WLWB 42
> > Azle, Texas
> >
> > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:
> >
> > From: Kurt Horvath
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 8:58 AM
> >
> > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my exhaust build. I
> > should have some photos today rain permitting.
> >
> > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not fully
> > considered or researched.
> >
> > Some of the mods are a 90 degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree
> > miter cut with a rain visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom
> > inside curve of the turn out. This should keep most of the rain
> out.
> >
> > Not being able to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I
> > have built, two types the 90 I just described and a straight
stack
> > with a rain cap.
> >
> > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished it up.
> >
> > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot from the
> > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with mufflers
> have
> > water traps and some have drains as well, small holes drilled
into
> > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a muffler, for a
straight
> > stack, so some sort of rain trap had to be created that would not
> > interfere with the exhaust gas flow and trap and drain rain
> > accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole can accumulate a lot
of
> > water in a daily south Florida afternoon rain, day after day
sooner
> > or later your going to fill the block with water. According to
> > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! Detroit used the words
> Catastrophic
> > Failure several times.
> >
> > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the
> Home
> > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are
looking
> at
> > is the drain section with the garden hose on full flow. 5 gallons
> per
> > min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. The section of tube
> on
> > the ground has been cut down to 6" long with a 3.5" electric
> exhaust
> > dump valve installed on a flange to open and close the water
trap.
> At
> > this point it is manually operated by a rocker switch or a by a
> > remote key fob.
> >
> > I'm working on a thermal activated switch that will close the
valve
> > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects
> water
> > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it when
> parked
> > and close it before you crank up the motor
> >
> > Some of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and
> the
> > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to
> another
> > modification.
> >
> > Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of course someone spots a
> > glaring defect or error in my build.
> >
> > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach,
> > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten
> > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she
would
> > sitting for a while.
> >
> > Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, remarks, welcomed.
> >
> > Currently this is a prototype for my coach, a direct replacement
> for
> > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It will be built Stainless
Steel
> > and will be a direct bolt in application, to replace the OEM
parts.
> >
> >
> >
> > Kurt Horvath
> > 95 PT 42
> > 10AC
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

6" SS EXHAUST STACK - Wallace Craig - 12-04-2008 07:49

Bob, I agree completely if I can find someone to climb up the ladder and place the baggie and then come back in two months. In truth of fact it is an excellent solution for me because the coach if in covered storage for most of the year. Thanks for the practical insight.


Wallace Craig
95 WLWB 42
Azle, Texas

--- On Thu, 12/4/08, robert nloomas <bbpt36@...> wrote:

From: robert nloomas <bbpt36@...>
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 1:16 PM


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig wrote:
Place a bagie over it that real simple and cheap and of course a little duck tap so it wont blow off.
Bob Loomas 1985 PT36
Harahan La
>
> For us pore lawyer types; simple is the best solution. Do you know if the flap like I described is available that fits the coach that you and I have with 90 degree exhaust end?? I am going to be on South Padre Island for Jan & Feb and would like to keep water out.
> > > Wallace Craig
> 95 WLWB 42
> Azle, Texas
> > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:
> > From: Kurt Horvath
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 10:20 AM
> > Hi Wallace,
> > I looked into several options, the one I liked most was bi-metalic > valves. That's a strip of metal that expands and contracts when > heated and cooled. It's used in some muffler applications. When it's > cold it leaves a gap over a hole when heated it contracts and covers > the opening. Easy few parts automatic operation, simular to what you > described. The current prototype can be modified in this manner. The > electric valve can be removed and a flange can be put in it's place > with any type of device from a bung with a plug to the exhaust dump > valve to drain away the water. I wanted the trap to be capable of > draining away an possible water flow that might be encountered. Five > gallons a min. is most likly more than enough, unless that little son > of gun Murphy shows up. L.O.L. Of course the rain cap will do the job > but it's not a very attractive option, The 90 degree turn out pipe > also works well but I've been trying to delete as many turns in the > pipes as possible. The system that will be offered to the general > public is a direct replacement of OEM parts for your coach, The > photos that will be posted soon are of the exhaust going into my > coach.
> > Kurt Horvath
> 95 PT 42
> 10AC
> > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig > wrote:
> >
> > Kurt, I am probably the last person on earth that you should tale > advise from about anything mechanical. Having said that; can you not > install a flap at the end of the exhaust that is weighted to stay > closed when the engine is not operating? I know I have seen it on > truck applications.
> > Keep Tennessee clean & green, maybe I will get back that way > sometime soon. Fuel is $2.44 at Racetrack in Azle. Happy holidays.
> > > > > > Wallace Craig
> > 95 WLWB 42
> > Azle, Texas
> > > > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:
> > > > From: Kurt Horvath
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 8:58 AM
> > > > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my exhaust build. I > > should have some photos today rain permitting. > > > > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not fully > > considered or researched. > > > > Some of the mods are a 90 degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree > > miter cut with a rain visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom > > inside curve of the turn out. This should keep most of the rain > out. > > > > Not being able to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I > > have built, two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack > > with a rain cap. > > > > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished it up. > > > > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot from
the > > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with mufflers > have > > water traps and some have drains as well, small holes drilled into > > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a muffler, for a straight > > stack, so some sort of rain trap had to be created that would not > > interfere with the exhaust gas flow and trap and drain rain > > accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole can accumulate a lot of > > water in a daily south Florida afternoon rain, day after day sooner > > or later your going to fill the block with water. According to > > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! Detroit used the words > Catastrophic > > Failure several times.
> > > > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the > Home > > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are looking > at > > is the drain section with the garden hose on full flow. 5 gallons > per > > min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. The section of tube > on > > the ground has been cut down to 6" long with a 3.5"
electric > exhaust > > dump valve installed on a flange to open and close the water trap. > At > > this point it is manually operated by a rocker switch or a by a > > remote key fob.
> > > > I'm working on a thermal activated switch that will close the valve > > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects > water > > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it when > parked > > and close it before you crank up the motor > > > > Some of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and > the > > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to > another > > modification. > > > > Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of course someone spots a > > glaring defect or error in my build. > > > > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach,
> > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten > > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she would > > sitting for a while. > > > > Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, remarks, welcomed.
> > > > Currently this is a prototype for my coach, a direct replacement > for > > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It will be built Stainless Steel > > and will be a direct bolt in application, to replace the OEM parts.
> > > > > > > > Kurt Horvath
> > 95 PT 42
> > 10AC
> > > > > > ------------------------------------
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > > > ------------------------------------
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
>
------------------------------------
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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/
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6" SS EXHAUST STACK - Pete Masterson - 12-04-2008 12:14

A low exhaust is certainly an option. However, care must be taken to
comply with vehicle code rules that state where exhaust may exit --
for example, I recall reading in the CA Vehicle Code that exhaust
must exit either below 24" or above 11 ft. (This is a recollection,
to the actual rule.)

A low exhaust might be done through the bumper (but then there is an
ugly gap around the pipe and problems ensuring that the heat doesn't
melt the plastic bumper) or below the bumper (but then there's the
problem of scraping the exhaust pipe when traversing a dip, etc.).

Might be better to deal with the rain drain.

Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
aeonix1@...
On the road at Williams, AZ



On Dec 4, 2008, at 9:40 AM, David Brady wrote:

> Kurt,
>
> Capturing water and funneling it away in a vertical exhaust
> stack bus application, where the engine is the lowest point
> is not easy. How 'bout if we turn the problem on its head and
> exit the exhaust downward and out the rear bumper, thereby
> eliminating the stack completely? This is cheaper (less stainless
> steel), better flowing (maybe fewer bends, but lots shorter),
> and the water problem is solved.
>
> David Brady, (of Brady Bucket Water Trap Fame!)
> '02 LXi, NC
>
> Kurt Horvath wrote:
>>
>> Hi Wallace,
>>
>> I looked into several options, the one I liked most was bi-metalic
>> valves. That's a strip of metal that expands and contracts when
>> heated and cooled. It's used in some muffler applications. When it's
>> cold it leaves a gap over a hole when heated it contracts and covers
>> the opening. Easy few parts automatic operation, simular to what you
>> described. The current prototype can be modified in this manner. The
>> electric valve can be removed and a flange can be put in it's place
>> with any type of device from a bung with a plug to the exhaust dump
>> valve to drain away the water. I wanted the trap to be capable of
>> draining away an possible water flow that might be encountered. Five
>> gallons a min. is most likly more than enough, unless that little son
>> of gun Murphy shows up. L.O.L. Of course the rain cap will do the job
>> but it's not a very attractive option, The 90 degree turn out pipe
>> also works well but I've been trying to delete as many turns in the
>> pipes as possible. The system that will be offered to the general
>> public is a direct replacement of OEM parts for your coach, The
>> photos that will be posted soon are of the exhaust going into my
>> coach.
>>
>> Kurt Horvath
>> 95 PT 42
>> 10AC
>>
>> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > Kurt, I am probably the last person on earth that you should tale
>> advise from about anything mechanical. Having said that; can you not
>> install a flap at the end of the exhaust that is weighted to stay
>> closed when the engine is not operating? I know I have seen it on
>> truck applications.
>> > Keep Tennessee clean & green, maybe I will get back that way
>> sometime soon. Fuel is $2.44 at Racetrack in Azle. Happy holidays.
>> >
>> >
>> > Wallace Craig
>> > 95 WLWB 42
>> > Azle, Texas
>> >
>> > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:
>> >
>> > From: Kurt Horvath
>> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
>> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
>> > Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 8:58 AM
>> >
>> > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my exhaust build. I
>> > should have some photos today rain permitting.
>> >
>> > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not fully
>> > considered or researched.
>> >
>> > Some of the mods are a 90 degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree
>> > miter cut with a rain visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom
>> > inside curve of the turn out. This should keep most of the rain
>> out.
>> >
>> > Not being able to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I
>> > have built, two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack
>> > with a rain cap.
>> >
>> > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished it up.
>> >
>> > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot from the
>> > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with mufflers
>> have
>> > water traps and some have drains as well, small holes drilled into
>> > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a muffler, for a straight
>> > stack, so some sort of rain trap had to be created that would not
>> > interfere with the exhaust gas flow and trap and drain rain
>> > accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole can accumulate a lot of
>> > water in a daily south Florida afternoon rain, day after day sooner
>> > or later your going to fill the block with water. According to
>> > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! Detroit used the words
>> Catastrophic
>> > Failure several times.
>> >
>> > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the
>> Home
>> > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are looking
>> at
>> > is the drain section with the garden hose on full flow. 5 gallons
>> per
>> > min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. The section of tube
>> on
>> > the ground has been cut down to 6" long with a 3.5" electric
>> exhaust
>> > dump valve installed on a flange to open and close the water trap.
>> At
>> > this point it is manually operated by a rocker switch or a by a
>> > remote key fob.
>> >
>> > I'm working on a thermal activated switch that will close the valve
>> > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects
>> water
>> > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it when
>> parked
>> > and close it before you crank up the motor
>> >
>> > Some of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and
>> the
>> > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to
>> another
>> > modification.
>> >
>> > Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of course someone spots a
>> > glaring defect or error in my build.
>> >
>> > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach,
>> > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten
>> > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she would
>> > sitting for a while.
>> >
>> > Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, remarks, welcomed.
>> >
>> > Currently this is a prototype for my coach, a direct replacement
>> for
>> > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It will be built Stainless Steel
>> > and will be a direct bolt in application, to replace the OEM parts.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Kurt Horvath
>> > 95 PT 42
>> > 10AC
>> >
>> >
>> > ------------------------------------
>> >
>> > Yahoo! Groups Links
>> >
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version:
>> 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.9.13/1827 - Release Date: 12/3/2008
>> 5:41 PM
>
>

6" SS EXHAUST STACK - Pete Masterson - 12-04-2008 12:18

I haven't researched it, but the problem of the 6" stack is the issue
-- almost all accessories max out at 5" diameter. Someone somewhere
might offer a 6" flap stack cover.

In the interim, perhaps a (metal) bucket and bungee cord would
provide protection. Use a small, light (kids) bucket, and no bungee
cord and it will remove itself when you start up -- otherwise, be
sure not to forget to remove it!

Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
aeonix1@...
On the road at Williams, AZ



On Dec 4, 2008, at 9:51 AM, Wallace Craig wrote:

> For us pore lawyer types; simple is the best solution. Do you know
> if the flap like I described is available that fits the coach that
> you and I have with 90 degree exhaust end?? I am going to be on
> South Padre Island for Jan & Feb and would like to keep water out.
>
> Wallace Craig
> 95 WLWB 42
> Azle, Texas
>
>
> --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:
> From: Kurt Horvath
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 10:20 AM
>
> Hi Wallace, I looked into several options, the one I liked most was
> bi-metalic valves. That's a strip of metal that expands and
> contracts when heated and cooled. It's used in some muffler
> applications. When it's cold it leaves a gap over a hole when
> heated it contracts and covers the opening. Easy few parts
> automatic operation, simular to what you described. The current
> prototype can be modified in this manner. The electric valve can be
> removed and a flange can be put in it's place with any type of
> device from a bung with a plug to the exhaust dump valve to drain
> away the water. I wanted the trap to be capable of draining away an
> possible water flow that might be encountered. Five gallons a min.
> is most likly more than enough, unless that little son of gun
> Murphy shows up. L.O.L. Of course the rain cap will do the job but
> it's not a very attractive option, The 90 degree turn out pipe also
> works well but I've been trying to delete as many turns in the
> pipes as possible. The system that will be offered to the general
> public is a direct replacement of OEM parts for your coach, The
> photos that will be posted soon are of the exhaust going into my
> coach. Kurt Horvath 95 PT 42 10AC --- In
> WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig
> wrote: > > Kurt, I am probably the last person on earth that you
> should tale advise from about anything mechanical. Having said
> that; can you not install a flap at the end of the exhaust that is
> weighted to stay closed when the engine is not operating? I know I
> have seen it on truck applications. > Keep Tennessee clean & green,
> maybe I will get back that way sometime soon. Fuel is $2.44 at
> Racetrack in Azle. Happy holidays. > > > Wallace Craig > 95 WLWB
> 42 > Azle, Texas > > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath
> wrote: > > From: Kurt Horvath > Subject:
> [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK > To:
> WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > Date: Thursday, December 4,
> 2008, 8:58 AM > > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my
> exhaust build. I > should have some photos today rain permitting.
> > > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not
> fully > considered or researched. > > Some of the mods are a 90
> degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree > miter cut with a rain
> visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom > inside curve of the
> turn out. This should keep most of the rain out. > > Not being able
> to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I > have built,
> two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack > with a
> rain cap. > > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished
> it up. > > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot
> from the > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with
> mufflers have > water traps and some have drains as well, small
> holes drilled into > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a
> muffler, for a straight > stack, so some sort of rain trap had to
> be created that would not > interfere with the exhaust gas flow and
> trap and drain rain > accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole
> can accumulate a lot of > water in a daily south Florida afternoon
> rain, day after day sooner > or later your going to fill the block
> with water. According to > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!!
> Detroit used the words Catastrophic > Failure several times. > >
> This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the
> Home > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are
> looking at > is the drain section with the garden hose on full
> flow. 5 gallons per > min. As you can see it gets most of the flow.
> The section of tube on > the ground has been cut down to 6" long
> with a 3.5" electric exhaust > dump valve installed on a flange to
> open and close the water trap. At > this point it is manually
> operated by a rocker switch or a by a > remote key fob. > > I'm
> working on a thermal activated switch that will close the valve >
> upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects
> water > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it
> when parked > and close it before you crank up the motor > > Some
> of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and the >
> commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to
> another > modification. > > Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of
> course someone spots a > glaring defect or error in my build. > >
> I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach, >
> she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten >
> several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she would
> > sitting for a while. > > Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes,
> remarks, welcomed. > > Currently this is a prototype for my coach,
> a direct replacement for > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It
> will be built Stainless Steel > and will be a direct bolt in
> application, to replace the OEM parts. > > > > Kurt Horvath > 95 PT
> 42 > 10AC > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo!
> Groups Links > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/join (Yahoo! ID
>

6" SS EXHAUST STACK - Kurt Horvath - 12-04-2008 15:16

Wallace,

Here is a safe, clean, easy fix, for long term parking, to protect
against rain entering the exhaust. You do not need to climb on top of
your coach, just use the included pole and storage bag when you don't
need it.

Make sure you copy and past all of the address below.

http://www.iowa80.com/DirectionsWEB/webcart_productDisplay.php?
itemid=98467

Kurt Horvath
95 PT 42
10AC






--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
wrote:
>
> I haven't researched it, but the problem of the 6" stack is the
issue
> -- almost all accessories max out at 5" diameter. Someone
somewhere
> might offer a 6" flap stack cover.
>
> In the interim, perhaps a (metal) bucket and bungee cord would
> provide protection. Use a small, light (kids) bucket, and no
bungee
> cord and it will remove itself when you start up -- otherwise, be
> sure not to forget to remove it!
>
> Pete Masterson
> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> aeonix1@...
> On the road at Williams, AZ
>
>
>
> On Dec 4, 2008, at 9:51 AM, Wallace Craig wrote:
>
> > For us pore lawyer types; simple is the best solution. Do you
know
> > if the flap like I described is available that fits the coach
that
> > you and I have with 90 degree exhaust end?? I am going to be on
> > South Padre Island for Jan & Feb and would like to keep water out.
> >
> > Wallace Craig
> > 95 WLWB 42
> > Azle, Texas
> >
> >
> > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:
> > From: Kurt Horvath
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 10:20 AM
> >
> > Hi Wallace, I looked into several options, the one I liked most
was
> > bi-metalic valves. That's a strip of metal that expands and
> > contracts when heated and cooled. It's used in some muffler
> > applications. When it's cold it leaves a gap over a hole when
> > heated it contracts and covers the opening. Easy few parts
> > automatic operation, simular to what you described. The current
> > prototype can be modified in this manner. The electric valve can
be
> > removed and a flange can be put in it's place with any type of
> > device from a bung with a plug to the exhaust dump valve to
drain
> > away the water. I wanted the trap to be capable of draining away
an
> > possible water flow that might be encountered. Five gallons a
min.
> > is most likly more than enough, unless that little son of gun
> > Murphy shows up. L.O.L. Of course the rain cap will do the job
but
> > it's not a very attractive option, The 90 degree turn out pipe
also
> > works well but I've been trying to delete as many turns in the
> > pipes as possible. The system that will be offered to the
general
> > public is a direct replacement of OEM parts for your coach, The
> > photos that will be posted soon are of the exhaust going into my
> > coach. Kurt Horvath 95 PT 42 10AC --- In
> > WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig
> > wrote: > > Kurt, I am probably the last person on earth that
you
> > should tale advise from about anything mechanical. Having said
> > that; can you not install a flap at the end of the exhaust that
is
> > weighted to stay closed when the engine is not operating? I know
I
> > have seen it on truck applications. > Keep Tennessee clean &
green,
> > maybe I will get back that way sometime soon. Fuel is $2.44 at
> > Racetrack in Azle. Happy holidays. > > > Wallace Craig > 95
WLWB
> > 42 > Azle, Texas > > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath
> > wrote: > > From: Kurt Horvath > Subject:
> > [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK > To:
> > WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > Date: Thursday, December 4,
> > 2008, 8:58 AM > > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my
> > exhaust build. I > should have some photos today rain
permitting.
> > > > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not
> > fully > considered or researched. > > Some of the mods are a 90
> > degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree > miter cut with a rain
> > visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom > inside curve of the
> > turn out. This should keep most of the rain out. > > Not being
able
> > to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I > have built,
> > two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack > with a
> > rain cap. > > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I
polished
> > it up. > > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot
> > from the > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems
with
> > mufflers have > water traps and some have drains as well, small
> > holes drilled into > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a
> > muffler, for a straight > stack, so some sort of rain trap had
to
> > be created that would not > interfere with the exhaust gas flow
and
> > trap and drain rain > accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole
> > can accumulate a lot of > water in a daily south Florida
afternoon
> > rain, day after day sooner > or later your going to fill the
block
> > with water. According to > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!!
> > Detroit used the words Catastrophic > Failure several times. > >
> > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the
> > Home > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you
are
> > looking at > is the drain section with the garden hose on full
> > flow. 5 gallons per > min. As you can see it gets most of the
flow.
> > The section of tube on > the ground has been cut down to 6" long
> > with a 3.5" electric exhaust > dump valve installed on a flange
to
> > open and close the water trap. At > this point it is manually
> > operated by a rocker switch or a by a > remote key fob. > > I'm
> > working on a thermal activated switch that will close the valve
>
> > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects
> > water > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open
it
> > when parked > and close it before you crank up the motor > >
Some
> > of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and the
>
> > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to
> > another > modification. > > Most likely NOT a this stage, unless
of
> > course someone spots a > glaring defect or error in my build. >
>
> > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach,
>
> > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten >
> > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she
would
> > > sitting for a while. > > Comments, criticism, suggestions,
jokes,
> > remarks, welcomed. > > Currently this is a prototype for my
coach,
> > a direct replacement for > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It
> > will be built Stainless Steel > and will be a direct bolt in
> > application, to replace the OEM parts. > > > > Kurt Horvath > 95
PT
> > 42 > 10AC > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo!
> > Groups Links > ------------------------------------ Yahoo!
Groups
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/join (Yahoo! ID
> >
>

6" SS EXHAUST STACK - Wallace Craig - 12-04-2008 15:24

My stack turns 90* to the starboard; don't see how "stack hat" would work. Baggie and scotch tape is sure cheaper.


Wallace Craig
95 WLWB 42
Azle, Texas

--- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:

From: Kurt Horvath
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 9:16 PM


Wallace,
Here is a safe, clean, easy fix, for long term parking, to protect against rain entering the exhaust. You do not need to climb on top of your coach, just use the included pole and storage bag when you don't need it.
Make sure you copy and past all of the address below.
http://www.iowa80.com/DirectionsWEB/webcart_productDisplay.php?
itemid=98467
Kurt Horvath
95 PT 42
10AC
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson wrote:
>
> I haven't researched it, but the problem of the 6" stack is the issue > -- almost all accessories max out at 5" diameter. Someone somewhere > might offer a 6" flap stack cover.
> > In the interim, perhaps a (metal) bucket and bungee cord would > provide protection. Use a small, light (kids) bucket, and no bungee > cord and it will remove itself when you start up -- otherwise, be > sure not to forget to remove it!
> > Pete Masterson
> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> aeonix1@...
> On the road at Williams, AZ
> > > > On Dec 4, 2008, at 9:51 AM, Wallace Craig wrote:
> > > For us pore lawyer types; simple is the best solution. Do you know > > if the flap like I described is available that fits the coach that > > you and I have with 90 degree exhaust end?? I am going to be on > > South Padre Island for Jan & Feb and would like to keep water
out.
> >
> > Wallace Craig
> > 95 WLWB 42
> > Azle, Texas
> >
> >
> > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:
> > From: Kurt Horvath
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 10:20 AM
> >
> > Hi Wallace, I looked into several options, the one I liked most was > > bi-metalic valves. That's a strip of metal that expands and > > contracts when heated and cooled. It's used in some muffler > > applications. When it's cold it leaves a gap over a hole when > > heated it contracts and covers the opening. Easy few parts > > automatic operation, simular to what you described. The current > > prototype can be modified in this manner. The electric valve can be > > removed and a flange can be put in it's place with any type of > > device from a bung with a plug to the exhaust dump valve to drain > > away the water. I wanted the trap to be capable of draining away an > > possible water flow that might be encountered. Five gallons a min. > > is most likly more than enough, unless that little son of gun > > Murphy shows up. L.O.L. Of course the rain cap will do the job but > > it's not a very attractive option, The 90 degree turn out pipe also > > works well but I've been trying to delete as many turns in the > > pipes as possible. The system that will be offered to the general > > public is a direct replacement of OEM parts for your coach, The > > photos that will be posted soon are of the exhaust going into my > > coach. Kurt Horvath 95 PT 42 10AC --- In > > WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig
> > wrote: > > Kurt, I am probably the last person on earth that you > > should tale advise from about anything mechanical. Having said > > that; can you not install a flap at the end of the exhaust that is > > weighted to stay closed when the engine is not operating? I know I > > have seen it on truck applications. > Keep Tennessee clean & green, > > maybe I will get back that way sometime soon. Fuel is $2.44 at > > Racetrack in Azle. Happy holidays. > > > Wallace Craig
> 95 WLWB > > 42 > Azle, Texas > > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath
> > wrote: > > From: Kurt Horvath > Subject: > > [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK > To: > > WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > Date: Thursday, December 4, > > 2008, 8:58 AM > > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on
my > > exhaust build. I > should have some photos today rain permitting. > > > > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not
> > fully > considered or researched. > > Some of the mods are a
90 > > degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree > miter cut with a rain > > visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom > inside curve of the > > turn out. This should keep most of the rain out. > > Not being able > > to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I > have built, > > two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack > with a > > rain cap. > > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished > > it up. > > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a
straight shot > > from the > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with > > mufflers have > water traps and some have drains as well, small > > holes drilled into > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a > > muffler, for a straight > stack, so some sort of rain trap had to > > be created that would not > interfere with the exhaust gas flow and > > trap and drain rain > accumulation of any proportions. A 5"
hole > > can accumulate a lot of > water in a daily south Florida afternoon > > rain, day after day sooner > or later your going to fill the block > > with water. According to > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! > > Detroit used the words Catastrophic > Failure several times. >
> > > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the > > Home > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are > > looking at > is the drain section with the garden hose on full > > flow. 5 gallons per > min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. > > The section of tube on > the ground has been cut down to 6"
long > > with a 3.5" electric exhaust > dump valve installed on a
flange to > > open and close the water trap. At > this point it is manually > > operated by a rocker switch or a by a > remote key fob. > >
I'm > > working on a thermal activated switch that will close the valve > > > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects > > water > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it > > when parked > and close it before you crank up the motor > >
Some > > of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and the > > > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to > > another > modification. > > Most likely NOT a this stage,
unless of > > course someone spots a > glaring defect or error in my build. >
> > > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach,
> > > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten
> > > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she would > > > sitting for a while. > > Comments, criticism, suggestions,
jokes, > > remarks, welcomed. > > Currently this is a prototype for my coach, > > a direct replacement for > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works.
It > > will be built Stainless Steel > and will be a direct bolt in > > application, to replace the OEM parts. > > > > Kurt
Horvath > 95 PT > > 42 > 10AC > > > ------------------------------------ >
> Yahoo! > > Groups Links > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/join (Yahoo! ID > >
>
------------------------------------
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6" SS EXHAUST STACK - David Brady - 12-04-2008 15:47


Kurt,



I think that your water trap is a good design. I'd probably shorten

the accumulator tank/pipe to around 3 inches, just enough to capture the

occasional burst of water, and I'd probably simply drill a quarter

inch hole in the bottom. That should do it. To make it even better

you could bend the slits on the exhaust pipe a bit to create a set of

scoops to better collect the water. Should work fine.



David Brady

'02 LXi, NC



Kurt Horvath wrote:






Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my exhaust build. I

should have some photos today rain permitting.



Some forum members brought up several points that I had not fully

considered or researched.



Some of the mods are a 90 degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree

miter cut with a rain visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom

inside curve of the turn out. This should keep most of the rain out.



Not being able to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I

have built, two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack

with a rain cap.



Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished it up.



If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot from the

exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with mufflers have

water traps and some have drains as well, small holes drilled into

the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a muffler, for a straight

stack, so some sort of rain trap had to be created that would not

interfere with the exhaust gas flow and trap and drain rain

accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole can accumulate a lot of

water in a daily south Florida afternoon rain, day after day sooner

or later your going to fill the block with water. According to

Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! Detroit used the words Catastrophic

Failure several times.



This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the Home

Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are looking at

is the drain section with the garden hose on full flow. 5 gallons per

min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. The section of tube on

the ground has been cut down to 6" long with a 3.5" electric exhaust

dump valve installed on a flange to open and close the water trap. At

this point it is manually operated by a rocker switch or a by a

remote key fob.



I'm working on a thermal activated switch that will close the valve

upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects water

in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it when parked

and close it before you crank up the motor



Some of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and the

commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to another

modification.



Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of course someone spots a

glaring defect or error in my build.



I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach,

she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten

several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she would

sitting for a while.



Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, remarks, welcomed.



Currently this is a prototype for my coach, a direct replacement for

the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It will be built Stainless Steel

and will be a direct bolt in application, to replace the OEM parts.



Kurt Horvath

95 PT 42

10AC





No virus found in this incoming message.

Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.9.13/1827 - Release Date: 12/3/2008 5:41 PM


6" SS EXHAUST STACK - Kurt Horvath - 12-04-2008 16:28

So far as constructed it can divert all but a dribble of 5 gallons a
min. flow. If it rains that hard I think I'd worry more about the
coach sinking into the ground. You can try to bend .083 thick SS.
Good luck. The slits are flush and polished to keep the gas flow
unrestricted. The catch can is a bit large, but does fit my
application and has a large enough capacity to compensate for my lack
of attention. Also if I use the Rain Cap or the 90 Degree turn out
with it's anti-rain provisions the catch can is overkill. That's the
fun part of building stuff your self. You get to do whatever suits
you.---Again this is the prototype I built for my coach, the
production version is a copy of the OEM parts in SS and includes a
muffler and a 90 degree turn out tip. The catch can came about from
our past discussions on the subject, and until I can get it mounted
in the coach, it's purely experimental

Kurt Horvath
95 PT 42
10AC


In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, David Brady wrote:
>
> Kurt,
>
> I think that your water trap is a good design. I'd probably shorten
> the accumulator tank/pipe to around 3 inches, just enough to
capture the
> occasional burst of water, and I'd probably simply drill a quarter
> inch hole in the bottom. That should do it. To make it even better
> you could bend the slits on the exhaust pipe a bit to create a set
of
> scoops to better collect the water. Should work fine.
>
> David Brady
> '02 LXi, NC
>
> Kurt Horvath wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my exhaust build. I
> > should have some photos today rain permitting.
> >
> > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not fully
> > considered or researched.
> >
> > Some of the mods are a 90 degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree
> > miter cut with a rain visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom
> > inside curve of the turn out. This should keep most of the rain
out.
> >
> > Not being able to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I
> > have built, two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack
> > with a rain cap.
> >
> > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished it up.
> >
> > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot from the
> > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with mufflers
have
> > water traps and some have drains as well, small holes drilled into
> > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a muffler, for a
straight
> > stack, so some sort of rain trap had to be created that would not
> > interfere with the exhaust gas flow and trap and drain rain
> > accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole can accumulate a lot of
> > water in a daily south Florida afternoon rain, day after day
sooner
> > or later your going to fill the block with water. According to
> > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! Detroit used the words
Catastrophic
> > Failure several times.
> >
> > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the
Home
> > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are
looking at
> > is the drain section with the garden hose on full flow. 5 gallons
per
> > min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. The section of tube
on
> > the ground has been cut down to 6" long with a 3.5" electric
exhaust
> > dump valve installed on a flange to open and close the water
trap. At
> > this point it is manually operated by a rocker switch or a by a
> > remote key fob.
> >
> > I'm working on a thermal activated switch that will close the
valve
> > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects
water
> > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it when
parked
> > and close it before you crank up the motor
> >
> > Some of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and
the
> > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to
another
> > modification.
> >
> > Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of course someone spots a
> > glaring defect or error in my build.
> >
> > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach,
> > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten
> > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she
would
> > sitting for a while.
> >
> > Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, remarks, welcomed.
> >
> > Currently this is a prototype for my coach, a direct replacement
for
> > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It will be built Stainless Steel
> > and will be a direct bolt in application, to replace the OEM
parts.
> >
> > Kurt Horvath
> > 95 PT 42
> > 10AC
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
------
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG.
> > Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.9.13/1827 - Release Date:
12/3/2008 5:41 PM
> >
>

6" SS EXHAUST STACK - Kurt Horvath - 12-04-2008 16:40

Wallace,

Just stick it in the end of the tube. You could go to the hardware
store and get some 6" CPVC with a cap and do the same thing. if you
go the baggie route. Use rubber bands or little bungies, if you use
masking tape the sun will bake it onto the pipe and you'll need some
kind of solvent to get it off. That mean getting up on top of the
coach.

Kurt Horvath
95 PT42
10AC



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig
wrote:
>
> My stack turns 90* to the starboard; don't see how "stack hat"
would work. Baggie and scotch tape is sure cheaper.
>
>
> Wallace Craig
> 95 WLWB 42
> Azle, Texas
>
> --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:
>
> From: Kurt Horvath
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 9:16 PM
>
> Wallace,
>
> Here is a safe, clean, easy fix, for long term parking, to protect
> against rain entering the exhaust. You do not need to climb on top
of
> your coach, just use the included pole and storage bag when you
don't
> need it.
>
> Make sure you copy and past all of the address below.
>
> http://www.iowa80.com/DirectionsWEB/webcart_productDisplay.php?
> itemid=98467
>
> Kurt Horvath
> 95 PT 42
> 10AC
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
> wrote:
> >
> > I haven't researched it, but the problem of the 6" stack is the
> issue
> > -- almost all accessories max out at 5" diameter. Someone
> somewhere
> > might offer a 6" flap stack cover.
> >
> > In the interim, perhaps a (metal) bucket and bungee cord would
> > provide protection. Use a small, light (kids) bucket, and no
> bungee
> > cord and it will remove itself when you start up -- otherwise,
be
> > sure not to forget to remove it!
> >
> > Pete Masterson
> > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > aeonix1@
> > On the road at Williams, AZ
> >
> >
> >
> > On Dec 4, 2008, at 9:51 AM, Wallace Craig wrote:
> >
> > > For us pore lawyer types; simple is the best solution. Do you
> know
> > > if the flap like I described is available that fits the coach
> that
> > > you and I have with 90 degree exhaust end?? I am going to be
on
> > > South Padre Island for Jan & Feb and would like to keep water
> out.
> > >
> > > Wallace Craig
> > > 95 WLWB 42
> > > Azle, Texas
> > >
> > >
> > > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:
> > > From: Kurt Horvath
> > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
> > > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > > Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 10:20 AM
> > >
> > > Hi Wallace, I looked into several options, the one I liked most
> was
> > > bi-metalic valves. That's a strip of metal that expands and
> > > contracts when heated and cooled. It's used in some muffler
> > > applications. When it's cold it leaves a gap over a hole when
> > > heated it contracts and covers the opening. Easy few parts
> > > automatic operation, simular to what you described. The
current
> > > prototype can be modified in this manner. The electric valve
can
> be
> > > removed and a flange can be put in it's place with any type of
> > > device from a bung with a plug to the exhaust dump valve to
> drain
> > > away the water. I wanted the trap to be capable of draining
away
> an
> > > possible water flow that might be encountered. Five gallons a
> min.
> > > is most likly more than enough, unless that little son of gun
> > > Murphy shows up. L.O.L. Of course the rain cap will do the job
> but
> > > it's not a very attractive option, The 90 degree turn out pipe
> also
> > > works well but I've been trying to delete as many turns in the
> > > pipes as possible. The system that will be offered to the
> general
> > > public is a direct replacement of OEM parts for your coach,
The
> > > photos that will be posted soon are of the exhaust going into
my
> > > coach. Kurt Horvath 95 PT 42 10AC --- In
> > > WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig
>
> > > wrote: > > Kurt, I am probably the last person on earth that
> you
> > > should tale advise from about anything mechanical. Having
said
> > > that; can you not install a flap at the end of the exhaust that
> is
> > > weighted to stay closed when the engine is not operating? I
know
> I
> > > have seen it on truck applications. > Keep Tennessee clean &
> green,
> > > maybe I will get back that way sometime soon. Fuel is $2.44
at
> > > Racetrack in Azle. Happy holidays. > > > Wallace Craig
> > 95
> WLWB
> > > 42 > Azle, Texas > > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath
>
> > > wrote: > > From: Kurt Horvath > Subject:
> > > [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK > To:
> > > WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > Date: Thursday, December 4,
> > > 2008, 8:58 AM > > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on
> my
> > > exhaust build. I > should have some photos today rain
> permitting.
> > > > > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not
>
> > > fully > considered or researched. > > Some of the mods are a
> 90
> > > degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree > miter cut with a
rain
> > > visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom > inside curve of
the
> > > turn out. This should keep most of the rain out. > > Not being
> able
> > > to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I > have
built,
> > > two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack > with
a
> > > rain cap. > > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I
> polished
> > > it up. > > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a
> straight shot
> > > from the > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems
> with
> > > mufflers have > water traps and some have drains as well,
small
> > > holes drilled into > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of
a
> > > muffler, for a straight > stack, so some sort of rain trap had
> to
> > > be created that would not > interfere with the exhaust gas flow
> and
> > > trap and drain rain > accumulation of any proportions. A 5"
> hole
> > > can accumulate a lot of > water in a daily south Florida
> afternoon
> > > rain, day after day sooner > or later your going to fill the
> block
> > > with water. According to > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!!
> > > Detroit used the words Catastrophic > Failure several times. >
> >
> > > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on
the
> > > Home > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you
> are
> > > looking at > is the drain section with the garden hose on full
> > > flow. 5 gallons per > min. As you can see it gets most of the
> flow.
> > > The section of tube on > the ground has been cut down to 6"
> long
> > > with a 3.5" electric exhaust > dump valve installed on a
> flange
> to
> > > open and close the water trap. At > this point it is manually
> > > operated by a rocker switch or a by a > remote key fob. > >
> I'm
> > > working on a thermal activated switch that will close the valve
> >
> > > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it
detects
> > > water > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open
> it
> > > when parked > and close it before you crank up the motor > >
>
> Some
> > > of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and
the
> >
> > > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to
> > > another > modification. > > Most likely NOT a this stage,
> unless
> of
> > > course someone spots a > glaring defect or error in my build. >
>
> >
> > > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the
coach,
>
> >
> > > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten
> >
> > > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she
> would
> > > > sitting for a while. > > Comments, criticism, suggestions,
>
> jokes,
> > > remarks, welcomed. > > Currently this is a prototype for my
> coach,
> > > a direct replacement for > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works.
> It
> > > will be built Stainless Steel > and will be a direct bolt in
> > > application, to replace the OEM parts. > > > > Kurt
> Horvath > 95
> PT
> > > 42 > 10AC > > > ------------------------------------ >
> > Yahoo!
> > > Groups Links > ------------------------------------ Yahoo!
> Groups
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/join (Yahoo! ID
> > >
> >
>
>
>
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>
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