![]() |
Blower motor - Printable Version +- Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum (http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com) +-- Forum: Yahoo Groups Archive (/forumdisplay.php?fid=61) +--- Forum: WanderlodgeForum (/forumdisplay.php?fid=63) +--- Thread: Blower motor (/showthread.php?tid=3556) |
Blower motor - krminyl@... - 09-30-2006 22:58 Gardner, All three of my LP heaters make a racket (squeeking), and it's a project I've been putting off for a few years (here in So Calif, I don't use the heaters much). Any words of advice, or hints on removing and lubeing up the heater motors? I've never done anything to the heaters but use them...they still start light and heat up fine...just the squealing noise. Thanks... Kevin McKeown Yorba Linda, CA 1986 38' PT [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Blower motor - Gardner Yeaw - 10-01-2006 02:46 I had a squeaky motor in the bedroom heater in my 78FC, I took it apart yesterday and emptied a ton of dust (brush and comutator stuff) and lubed it up. I noticed the brushes were about 5 minutes from wearing out, but for now it runs nice and quiet. Anyone know where I can get new brushes? I may have to neasure the holder and search out something that matches, but if anyone has done it before me, please don't hesitate to fill me in. Thanks, Gardner 78FC33 Blower motor - krminyl@... - 10-01-2006 13:57 Gardner, That was more than I expected, and very much appreciated. Now that I have a starting point, I won't be too reluctant to begin the chore of making those heaters work like they are supposed to. The pictures would be great, too! Thanks again...I'll let you know how it all works out. Kevin McKeown Yorba Linda, CA 1986 38' PT [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Blower motor - Gardner Yeaw - 10-01-2006 13:58 Kevin, The first thing is for us to locate a source for replacement brushes because they are probably worn out and you don't want to do the job twice. The heater needs to be removed from the coach so the first thing is to unscrew the vent on the outside and pull it out to slip it off the exhaust (upper) tube. The vent has a tube permanently attached which fits tightly over the exhaust tube on the heater. There is a good possability that it is rusted and may not be easy to get off. If you are able to seperate the vent tube from the exhaust tube, you are ready to remove the heater from the coach. On mine the front covers were attached to the heater with latches. Once the front cover is removed there are two screws securing the heater to the floor. Take out these screws. Next there is the propane connection. you need to locate the valve for the heater. My valves were as follows: Bedroom: beside the heater Kitchen: beside the heater Living room: beside the Kitchen heater Turn off the valve and disconnect the line (on the heater side of the valve**) Once this is done you can lift the heater out. Now to the blower. There is one screw that holds the heater in the case, it is located at the front and should be obvious. Remove the screw and slide the heater out of the case, you will need to remove the propane connection entering the side of the heater and tuck the electircal connecter inside. The blower has two sections, one to circulate the air in the coach through the heater, and a smaller one to circulate fresh air into the combustion chamber and force the products of combustion out the exhaust port on the outside. There are 4 screws that hold the cover on the end of the blower. remove them and remove the cover. There are now three long screws that attach the combustion air plenum and blower motor to the blower housing. Remove these and you can remove the motor with the ait plenum and double squirl cage for the coach air attached. Now remove the squirocage fans from the motor. Since the small squirlcage fan pulls in outside air it is most likley rusted and may be difficult to remove from the motor shaft. Now, at last, you have the motor. There are two screws that hold the two end plates on. Temove the screws and pull the front plate off (the one at the opposite end of where the wires enter. Now with the palm of your hand, oush on the end of the motor shaft to force the rear cover off the housing, ou need to overcome the force of the magnet to get the armature to move out of the housing. How you have the armature still inserted in the rear housing with the brush plate attached. At this point you can assess the condition of the brushes and armature and determine if the armature needs to be turned to produce a clean surface for new brushes. At this point you are on your own. You need to find a small motor repair shop that can recondition the armature and supply new brushes if needed. If the armature and brushes are OK, then you can clean off the motor shafts and bearings and lube them up. I don't know what is the right stuff, but I used some motor oil which should hold until I find a source for the brushes and can do the job right. Now, put it back togeather. You may need to do some aligning of the motor in the motor clamp to get the squirel cages centered in the housings, but take your time and it will be OK. If I have some time I will take a few photos of an old heater I have to illustrate what I described. But that may be a while. Was that long enough? Gardner 78FC33 --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, krminyl@... wrote: > > Gardner, > > All three of my LP heaters make a racket (squeeking), and it's a project > I've been putting off for a few years (here in So Calif, I don't use the heaters > much). Any words of advice, or hints on removing and lubeing up the heater > motors? I've never done anything to the heaters but use them...they still > start light and heat up fine...just the squealing noise. > > Thanks... > > Kevin McKeown > Yorba Linda, CA > 1986 38' PT > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > |