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Water pressure regulator - Printable Version +- Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum (http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com) +-- Forum: Yahoo Groups Archive (/forumdisplay.php?fid=61) +--- Forum: WanderlodgeForum (/forumdisplay.php?fid=63) +--- Thread: Water pressure regulator (/showthread.php?tid=5108) Pages: 1 2 |
Water pressure regulator - davidkerryedwards - 06-08-2007 08:09 Had odd water pressure problems on my Bird since I got it. Decided to chase it down today. Tracked the problem back to the water pressure regulator. Removed the bottom (at least I think it is the bottom, it looks to me like it is installed upside down with the bottom facing up). Inside of it was chock full or rust, calcium and assorted varieties of minerals and gunk. Piping was completely blocked. I cleaned it out enough to let water pass thru but I'm pretty sure it's not regulating pressure any more due to the additional gunk that must be in the top of it. Considered replacing it, but that's a pain in the neck. Have to remove a number of pipes, and even the valve controlling water flow to the heater, and the air blow out line from the chassis air to get enough room to unscrew the regulator. So I decided to leave it in place and use an in-line regulator with a gauge at the hose connection. Anyone done something similar? Anyone else checked to see if their regulators are actually functional? Kerry 82 FC 35 Unregulated Denver Water pressure regulator - Curt Sprenger - 06-08-2007 08:25 Ours stopped working. The regulator/check valve was removed and tossed in the trash. Installed a new check valve, and use a pressure regulator on the hose shore end. I have pictures if anyone is interested. The pictures may be out on one of the sites too. Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing" Anaheim Hills, Calif. davidkerryedwards wrote: > Had odd water pressure problems on my Bird since I got it. Decided to > chase it down today. > Tracked the problem back to the water pressure regulator. Removed the > bottom (at least I > think it is the bottom, it looks to me like it is installed upside > down with the bottom facing > up). Inside of it was chock full or rust, calcium and assorted > varieties of minerals and gunk. > Piping was completely blocked. I cleaned it out enough to let water > pass thru but I'm pretty > sure it's not regulating pressure any more due to the additional gunk > that must be in the top > of it. Considered replacing it, but that's a pain in the neck. Have to > remove a number of > pipes, and even the valve controlling water flow to the heater, and > the air blow out line from > the chassis air to get enough room to unscrew the regulator. So I > decided to leave it in place > and use an in-line regulator with a gauge at the hose connection. > Anyone done something > similar? Anyone else checked to see if their regulators are actually > functional? > > Kerry > 82 FC 35 Unregulated > Denver > > Water pressure regulator - Rob Robinson - 06-08-2007 09:20 Curt I would appreciate the pics. Thanks On 08/06/07, Curt Sprenger > > Ours stopped working. The regulator/check valve was removed and tossed > in the trash. Installed a new check valve, and use a pressure regulator > on the hose shore end. I have pictures if anyone is interested. The > pictures may be out on one of the sites too. > > Curt Sprenger > 1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing" > Anaheim Hills, Calif. > > davidkerryedwards wrote: > > > Had odd water pressure problems on my Bird since I got it. Decided to > > chase it down today. > > Tracked the problem back to the water pressure regulator. Removed the > > bottom (at least I > > think it is the bottom, it looks to me like it is installed upside > > down with the bottom facing > > up). Inside of it was chock full or rust, calcium and assorted > > varieties of minerals and gunk. > > Piping was completely blocked. I cleaned it out enough to let water > > pass thru but I'm pretty > > sure it's not regulating pressure any more due to the additional gunk > > that must be in the top > > of it. Considered replacing it, but that's a pain in the neck. Have to > > remove a number of > > pipes, and even the valve controlling water flow to the heater, and > > the air blow out line from > > the chassis air to get enough room to unscrew the regulator. So I > > decided to leave it in place > > and use an in-line regulator with a gauge at the hose connection. > > Anyone done something > > similar? Anyone else checked to see if their regulators are actually > > functional? > > > > Kerry > > 82 FC 35 Unregulated > > Denver > > > > > > > -- Rob, Sue & Merlin Robinson 94 WLWB [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Water pressure regulator - davidkerryedwards - 06-08-2007 09:25 The check valve stopped working on ours last year. It was bleeding out when the pump was running. I just bought a brass end-of-hose shutoff valve and attached it to the hose inlet. I can shut if off manually. Turns out it was a smart idea because it's actually easier to attach the hose to the shut off valve than it was to the original fitting since the fitting spins freely on the valve. Kerry 82 FC 35 Denver --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Curt Sprenger > > Ours stopped working. The regulator/check valve was removed and tossed > in the trash. Installed a new check valve, and use a pressure regulator > on the hose shore end. I have pictures if anyone is interested. The > pictures may be out on one of the sites too. > > Curt Sprenger > 1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing" > Anaheim Hills, Calif. Water pressure regulator - Pete Masterson - 06-08-2007 11:59 My coach has an outside water faucet (one like a kitchen sink). I swapped a threaded end on it (so it's more like a laundry tub faucet) and I have a water pressure gauge with a hose-thread. I put it on the faucet to check the pressure. I usually get about 40 psi when connected to shore water and 65 psi (the rated pressure) from the variable speed pump. Pete Masterson '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 aeonix1@... On the road at Chief Hosa, Colorado On Jun 8, 2007, at 2:09 PM, davidkerryedwards wrote: > Had odd water pressure problems on my Bird since I got it. Decided > to chase it down today. > Tracked the problem back to the water pressure regulator. Removed > the bottom (at least I > think it is the bottom, it looks to me like it is installed upside > down with the bottom facing > up). Inside of it was chock full or rust, calcium and assorted > varieties of minerals and gunk. > Piping was completely blocked. I cleaned it out enough to let > water pass thru but I'm pretty > sure it's not regulating pressure any more due to the additional > gunk that must be in the top > of it. Considered replacing it, but that's a pain in the neck. > Have to remove a number of > pipes, and even the valve controlling water flow to the heater, and > the air blow out line from > the chassis air to get enough room to unscrew the regulator. So I > decided to leave it in place > and use an in-line regulator with a gauge at the hose connection. > Anyone done something > similar? Anyone else checked to see if their regulators are > actually functional? > > Kerry > 82 FC 35 Unregulated > Denver > Water pressure regulator - williamcharrison - 07-06-2007 01:06 I got my regulator from Bluebird parts but I don't know how to access the inside fitting. The regulator is under a box like structure on which the road side night stand is located and this does not move. Do you have to access it by removing the engine cover? Other advice I have received apparently does not apply to my coach since no access through the floor appears to be available. Chuck Harrison Akron, Ohio 90 SP36 Water pressure regulator - Curt Sprenger - 07-06-2007 02:08 Chuck, If your coach is like ours...Lift up the mattress and support it or somehow get it out of the way. Lift up the bed board that extends beyond the bed box and slide it under the mattress. Remove the carpet on top and in front of that stand (it's one piece). Remove the screws holding the front panel. You may need to remove the top small board too. Lift up/out the front panel. Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing" Anaheim Hills, Calif. williamcharrison wrote: > I got my regulator from Bluebird parts but I don't know how to access > the inside fitting. The regulator is under a box like > structure on which the road side night stand is located and this > does not move. Do you have to access it by removing the engine cover? > Other advice I have received apparently does not apply to my coach > since no access through the floor appears to be available. > > Chuck Harrison > Akron, Ohio > 90 SP36 > > Water pressure regulator - g_man1146 - 07-06-2007 02:36 My '90 PT had a similar setup and I had to remove the carpet to find the screws that allowed the plywood panel to be removed. Some had a radio speaker mounted here too and it may be possible to remove that and gain some access. Another way is to cut the hose going to the regulator at a point under the bed, remove the 4 screws on the fill/regulator and pull it out with the hose attached. Install a new piece of hose on the new regulator and reverse the process. This worked on a '90 PT40, yours may be different. Rich D. '99LXi, '90 PT40 CT --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "williamcharrison" > > I got my regulator from Bluebird parts but I don't know how to access > the inside fitting. The regulator is under a box like > structure on which the road side night stand is located and this > does not move. Do you have to access it by removing the engine cover? > Other advice I have received apparently does not apply to my coach > since no access through the floor appears to be available. > > > Chuck Harrison > Akron, Ohio > 90 SP36 > Water pressure regulator - Ralph L. Fullenwider - 07-06-2007 02:54 Just a thought and tip: No need to tear everything out in the bedroom, if this is the regulator I think it is, everything can be done from the out side where you hook up shore water. If you look at the center of the regulator, on each side of the hose connector, you should see 2 small holes. These holes allows you to use a large snap ring plier or some very thin tipped needle nose pliers to insert into those two holes. Then using this method you can simply unscrew the "guts" of the regulator out of the old housing. Clean and lube the inner part of the old housing with a silicone base grease "white lubriplate or permitex grease". Then remove the "guts" of the new regulator, taking note of how it goes together, and screw the new guts into the old housing. Done in 10 minutes and your a hero with the "better half" because 1. you have water and 2, you did not tear "her" Coach up. Safe travels, Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider 84FC35 Duncan, Oklahoma At 01:06 PM 7/6/2007 +0000, you wrote: > I got my regulator from Bluebird parts but I don't know how to access >the inside fitting. The regulator is under a box like >structure on which the road side night stand is located and this >does not move. Do you have to access it by removing the engine cover? >Other advice I have received apparently does not apply to my coach >since no access through the floor appears to be available. > > >Chuck Harrison >Akron, Ohio >90 SP36 > > Water pressure regulator - pattypape - 07-06-2007 03:13 This is a great repair tip, Ralph has posted this in the past. When doing this repair, I found that the Jabsco regulator is manufactured is several different mounting configurations, but the internal "guts" are the same. So this part is easy to find at an RV store, West Marine or Boaters World. Bill 88 FC Michigan --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider" > > Just a thought and tip: > > No need to tear everything out in the bedroom, if this is the regulator I > think it is, everything can be done from the out side where you hook up > shore water. > > If you look at the center of the regulator, on each side of the hose > connector, you should see 2 small holes. These holes allows you to use a > large snap ring plier or some very thin tipped needle nose pliers to insert > into those two holes. Then using this method you can simply unscrew the > "guts" of the regulator out of the old housing. Clean and lube the inner > part of the old housing with a silicone base grease "white lubriplate or > permitex grease". Then remove the "guts" of the new regulator, taking note > of how it goes together, and screw the new guts into the old housing. Done > in 10 minutes and your a hero with the "better half" because 1. you have > water and 2, you did not tear "her" Coach up. > > Safe travels, > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider > 84FC35 > Duncan, Oklahoma > > At 01:06 PM 7/6/2007 +0000, you wrote: > > I got my regulator from Bluebird parts but I don't know how to access > >the inside fitting. The regulator is under a box like > >structure on which the road side night stand is located and this > >does not move. Do you have to access it by removing the engine cover? > >Other advice I have received apparently does not apply to my coach > >since no access through the floor appears to be available. > > > > > >Chuck Harrison > >Akron, Ohio > >90 SP36 > > > > > |