Propane Heater Removal - Printable Version +- Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum (http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com) +-- Forum: Yahoo Groups Archive (/forumdisplay.php?fid=61) +--- Forum: WanderlodgeForum (/forumdisplay.php?fid=63) +--- Thread: Propane Heater Removal (/showthread.php?tid=5991)

Propane Heater Removal - akav8r - 11-15-2007 13:31 I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase. THANKS to the help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do list. Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater, removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws holding the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center screw from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still the heater will not budge from its place. As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the tubes and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out. Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know for sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be there. Once again THANKS in advance for any help. Wendel, GA 82 FC35 "Momentary lapse of reason" Propane Heater Removal - Ralph L. Fullenwider - 11-15-2007 14:33 Wendel: Lets do a re think on how the heaters are removed. First of all, the heater core comes out of the outer shell, in place. Put the 2 front screws back into the outer shell attaching it to the floor. There are three of these screws that hold the heater in place, the front two you have found and the 3rd is in the back of the outer shell and is removed after the insides are pulled out. Ok, you have the Lp line disconnected and the brass elbow going to the unit removed, now remove the 5 control wires if hard wired or un plug the connection if there is a plug. Suggestion? on a pad of paper, draw a diagram of how your unit is wired, do not try to remember them, it won't work, been there done that. Now then your ready to locate the 5 screws that hold the inside of the unit to the out case. they are usually 1/4 inch square head sheet metal screws. 4 of them will be pretty easy to find but the 5th is harder, it is semi hidden back on the right side about 1/2 way down and back deep, you will need an extension to get it out. Re cap, LP line is disconnected, LP elbow is removed, wiring is un wired and 5 screws are removed. now the unit is ready to slip out of the outer casing. The screws you see from the out side intake and exhaust tubes are not part of what you need. Now then those tubes from the burner plenum are slipped into the compression rings of the outer tubes and may be rusted you just have to use a little persuasion to move them. Caution!!!!! This is a MUST remember and check. Those tubes MUST me slipped back in when re assembling and they MUST slip into the outer tube a MINIMUM of 2 1/4 inches. This keeps the CO2 out of your Coach. If the out side tubes are rusted, replace them, no guess work, replace them. You need a manual on Suburban heaters. Good luck Safe travels, Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider 84FC35 Duncan, Oklahoma At 01:31 AM 11/16/2007 +0000, you wrote: >I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase. THANKS to the >help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do list. > >Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for >cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have >turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater, >removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws holding >the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center screw >from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still the >heater will not budge from its place. > >As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the >exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through >each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the tubes >and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the >intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not >coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove >these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most >accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out. > >Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't >understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know for >sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be >there. > >Once again THANKS in advance for any help. > >Wendel, GA >82 FC35 >"Momentary lapse of reason" > > Propane Heater Removal - dru penland - 11-16-2007 01:02 Not to contradict anyone, but I found it much easier to unscrew the heater from the floor and take out the vent tubes (all screws exterior) from the outside and pull the whole box in a nice working environment to work on. My problems with removing only the core unit from the box were having ample clearance to pull the innards without hitting other items on the way out such as carpet tack boards, etc. Also. mine has 90-degree fittings for the propane that would not remove without hitting the floor of the coach. This fitting, on mine has to be removed to slide the core out. My aft heater is under one bed and the dinette, as I have a rear bath model, and there would be no way to slide the unit out without deconstructing the furnishings extensively. My problems with my heaters were paper wasps and dirt daubers. Before replacing my vents, I took the vent cover off the tubes and placed a piece of coarse screen wire between the two and sandwiched it back together. These insects had completely plugged my front heater rendering it inoperable. I wish you luck. I bought my coach last year and went one year without heater working. It's great to have them. Regards, akav8r wrote: I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase. THANKS to the help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do list. Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater, removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws holding the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center screw from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still the heater will not budge from its place. As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the tubes and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out. Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know for sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be there. Once again THANKS in advance for any help. Wendel, GA 82 FC35 "Momentary lapse of reason" Dru and Debora Corpus Christi, TX 1983 FC 35 RB Steady Gittin' It! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Propane Heater Removal - William - 11-16-2007 01:26 Hello, We just purchased a 1983 FC 35 SB and are going through the same process. I brought the Bird to an RV Suburban dealer to have the propane system checked for safety. This is not something I trust myself with. At the same time I asked them to check out the front furnace. It was doing nothing. They got the blower spinning but no heat. They told me about 3 hours to remove and replace @$95/hour + parts. I told them No thanks. (your can byu a new one for less $. I have been told it may be the pc board. The older ones are "single set". That is after one fail they need to be reset or replaced. The newer boards give you three start attempts before they need to be reset or replaced. I haven't got around to doing this yet. Hope this helps. Let us know if you learn something different. The following are answers are from the WOO forum regarding removal of the front unit. http://www.wanderlodge.us/members/showthread.php?t=51226&highlight=Suburban+fu rnace Bill, There is no way to service the unit when it is installed. Everythjing is slipped into the case from the end. Three hours is a lot of time to get it out. On my 78 FC it is under the sliding couch. You take the vent off from the outside, then turn off the gas (valve inline near heater), unplug the connector,disconnect the gas line, remove the grill from the kick board under the couch, take out the two screws that hold the heater to the floor, and lift it out. Of course you are sliding the couch in and out to get access to the various things. I have worked through this problem in the past. It could be a number of items including the control board, or in my case; it was a wasp nest that had locked the squirrel cage blower to the housing stopping its rotation. No rotation - no air flow, no air flow - a safety switch will not release and the gas valve will not energize (good thing!). If the blower were working, we could give you several trouble shooting suggestions prior to pulling the heater - but if the unit has power and the thermostat is closing....The only course of action I can think of is to pull the heater, dissemble, check the blower for foreign materials and/or the control board for proper function. Good, I can answer this one. 3 hours sound mighty high for a furnace cleaning and inspection. If your furnance is not firing up it most likely is the mother board. Camping World carries the replacement for this furnance for around $110 if you have the Suburban NT16SW which is a common furnance. Me and a friend removed mine, I cleaned it, drove 25 miles to get the part and had it installed in little over 3 hours. It is not a difficult task, biggest problem I had was getting the outside exhaust pipes from under my trim work, this is where I needed the extra help. WD40 worked just great to slip it in & out under the trim. Suburban shows 2 mother boards for the furnance either one will work, but don't expect to call Suburban and get a response, won't happen. I'm still waiting. Reparing your furnance is a pretty simple job as long as you know which end of the screwdriver you hold. Just remember your furnance has been in your coach for over 20 years and it is dirty and as soon as you lift it out from under the sofa it will drop soot & rust all over the coach. Use common sence when it comes to propane & electricity, AC/DC doesn't matter, spark & gas fumes equal a loud noise followed by intense hot flame, if you know what I mean. So cut off the gas and burn off any extra gas by lighting your cook top for a few minutes, then cut of electric power to the coach. Start by removing the outside exhaust vent pipes and then go inside and disconnect electric connections, insulate them amd then loosen gas line and remove all srews holding the furnance unit to the floor and duct work, remove the unit to a better work space and remove end and the unit will slide out of the metal casing. You can test the furnance outside the coach and furnance case with a 12 volt power source, you should hear the fan run for about 30 seconds and then hear a tick - tick sound, this tick is the sound of the ignighter lighting. Most parts are available and your furnance is basically a removeal and replace maintenance system. You see labels on the furnance reading to be serviced by a quailified service technician, a qualified service technician knows how to turn off the gas and disconnect the electricity before working on the system, so don't let that scare you but if it does all else find a used replacement on ebay from a used rv parts dealer for around $300. Good Luck, John --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dru penland wrote: > > Not to contradict anyone, but I found it much easier to unscrew the heater from the floor and take out the vent tubes (all screws exterior) from the outside and pull the whole box in a nice working environment to work on. My problems with removing only the core unit from the box were having ample clearance to pull the innards without hitting other items on the way out such as carpet tack boards, etc. Also. mine has 90- degree fittings for the propane that would not remove without hitting the floor of the coach. This fitting, on mine has to be removed to slide the core out. My aft heater is under one bed and the dinette, as I have a rear bath model, and there would be no way to slide the unit out without deconstructing the furnishings extensively. > > My problems with my heaters were paper wasps and dirt daubers. Before replacing my vents, I took the vent cover off the tubes and placed a piece of coarse screen wire between the two and sandwiched it back together. These insects had completely plugged my front heater rendering it inoperable. > > I wish you luck. I bought my coach last year and went one year without heater working. It's great to have them. > > Regards, > > akav8r wrote: > I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase. THANKS to the > help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do list. > > Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for > cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have > turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater, > removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws holding > the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center screw > from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still the > heater will not budge from its place. > > As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the > exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through > each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the tubes > and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the > intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not > coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove > these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most > accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out. > > Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't > understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know for > sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be > there. > > Once again THANKS in advance for any help. > > Wendel, GA > 82 FC35 > "Momentary lapse of reason" > > > > > > > Dru and Debora > Corpus Christi, TX > 1983 FC 35 RB > Steady Gittin' It! > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Propane Heater Removal - Ralph L. Fullenwider - 11-16-2007 01:32 Hi Dru: I agree with you, it is nice to do that, if the rear screw was not installed or the heater had been removed once before and the rear screw not re installed. Other wise, with that screw there, one needs a crowbar to pry the rear of the heater out. The easiest one to remove is the galley unit in most cases and the one to do first so you know first hand what needs be done. Safe travels, Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider 84FC35 Duncan, Oklahoma At 05:02 AM 11/16/2007 -0800, you wrote: >Not to contradict anyone, but I found it much easier to unscrew the heater >from the floor and take out the vent tubes (all screws exterior) from the >outside and pull the whole box in a nice working environment to work on. >My problems with removing only the core unit from the box were having >ample clearance to pull the innards without hitting other items on the way >out such as carpet tack boards, etc. Also. mine has 90-degree fittings for >the propane that would not remove without hitting the floor of the coach. >This fitting, on mine has to be removed to slide the core out. My aft >heater is under one bed and the dinette, as I have a rear bath model, and >there would be no way to slide the unit out without deconstructing the >furnishings extensively. > > My problems with my heaters were paper wasps and dirt daubers. Before > replacing my vents, I took the vent cover off the tubes and placed a > piece of coarse screen wire between the two and sandwiched it back > together. These insects had completely plugged my front heater rendering > it inoperable. > > I wish you luck. I bought my coach last year and went one year without > heater working. It's great to have them. > > Regards, > >akav8r wrote: > I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase. THANKS to the >help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do list. > >Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for >cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have >turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater, >removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws holding >the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center screw >from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still the >heater will not budge from its place. > >As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the >exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through >each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the tubes >and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the >intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not >coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove >these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most >accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out. > >Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't >understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know for >sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be >there. > >Once again THANKS in advance for any help. > >Wendel, GA >82 FC35 >"Momentary lapse of reason" > > > > > Propane Heater Removal - pattypape - 11-16-2007 01:33 Hey Dru, Good tip on adding the screening, This is better than the $20 screen covers sold at RV supply stores. Bill 88 FC Michigan --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dru penland wrote: > > Not to contradict anyone, but I found it much easier to unscrew the heater from the floor and take out the vent tubes (all screws exterior) from the outside and pull the whole box in a nice working environment to work on. My problems with removing only the core unit from the box were having ample clearance to pull the innards without hitting other items on the way out such as carpet tack boards, etc. Also. mine has 90-degree fittings for the propane that would not remove without hitting the floor of the coach. This fitting, on mine has to be removed to slide the core out. My aft heater is under one bed and the dinette, as I have a rear bath model, and there would be no way to slide the unit out without deconstructing the furnishings extensively. > > My problems with my heaters were paper wasps and dirt daubers. Before replacing my vents, I took the vent cover off the tubes and placed a piece of coarse screen wire between the two and sandwiched it back together. These insects had completely plugged my front heater rendering it inoperable. > > I wish you luck. I bought my coach last year and went one year without heater working. It's great to have them. > > Regards, > > akav8r wrote: > I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase. THANKS to the > help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do list. > > Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for > cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have > turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater, > removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws holding > the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center screw > from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still the > heater will not budge from its place. > > As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the > exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through > each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the tubes > and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the > intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not > coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove > these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most > accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out. > > Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't > understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know for > sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be > there. > > Once again THANKS in advance for any help. > > Wendel, GA > 82 FC35 > "Momentary lapse of reason" > > > > > > > Dru and Debora > Corpus Christi, TX > 1983 FC 35 RB > Steady Gittin' It! > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Propane Heater Removal - dru penland - 11-16-2007 01:55 Hey Ralph, I love the idea that this forum allows free discussion and I'm not sure where I would be with my project coach without it. I see your going to be present for the November LSB rally. I can't wait to me you and the others I've been writing with...in a coach with working heat, lol! Maybe I can get away without the space heaters this time. As for the looks of my ol' bird, well I might get to win a prize this time for the ugliest. I'm hoping to work on the exterior in the future. I think she likes her new owners and the TLC I'm giving. She's been good, so I'm hoping she gets a new gennie door from Santa this Christmas. The present one is pretty ruff and rusted. I hope the turn out for the rally is as good as the list looks.See you there and safe travels to you and yours! Dru Dru and Debora Corpus Christi, TX 1983 FC 35 RB Steady Gittin' It! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Propane Heater Removal - dru penland - 11-16-2007 02:06 Oh NO! I hope I don't get hit with patent infringement! I didn't know there was a fix. We have a real wasp problem. I found out this year that my oldest son is extremely allergic to the darn things. Thanks to goodness Benadryl works! Dru 1983fc35rb pattypape wrote: Hey Dru, Good tip on adding the screening, This is better than the $20 screen covers sold at RV supply stores. Bill 88 FC Michigan --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dru penland wrote: > > Not to contradict anyone, but I found it much easier to unscrew the heater from the floor and take out the vent tubes (all screws exterior) from the outside and pull the whole box in a nice working environment to work on. My problems with removing only the core unit from the box were having ample clearance to pull the innards without hitting other items on the way out such as carpet tack boards, etc. Also. mine has 90-degree fittings for the propane that would not remove without hitting the floor of the coach. This fitting, on mine has to be removed to slide the core out. My aft heater is under one bed and the dinette, as I have a rear bath model, and there would be no way to slide the unit out without deconstructing the furnishings extensively. > > My problems with my heaters were paper wasps and dirt daubers. Before replacing my vents, I took the vent cover off the tubes and placed a piece of coarse screen wire between the two and sandwiched it back together. These insects had completely plugged my front heater rendering it inoperable. > > I wish you luck. I bought my coach last year and went one year without heater working. It's great to have them. > > Regards, > > akav8r wrote: > I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase. THANKS to the > help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do list. > > Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for > cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have > turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater, > removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws holding > the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center screw > from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still the > heater will not budge from its place. > > As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the > exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through > each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the tubes > and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the > intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not > coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove > these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most > accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out. > > Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't > understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know for > sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be > there. > > Once again THANKS in advance for any help. > > Wendel, GA > 82 FC35 > "Momentary lapse of reason" > > > > > > > Dru and Debora > Corpus Christi, TX > 1983 FC 35 RB > Steady Gittin' It! > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Dru and Debora Corpus Christi, TX 1983 FC 35 RB Steady Gittin' It! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Propane Heater Removal - bubblerboy64 - 11-16-2007 09:25 Dru, If your son is allergic to wasp or bee stings DO NOT screw around with local remedies. There is a world of difference between the local reaction which we all get from a bee sting to what happens in a person with a true allergic reaction. Benadryl may NOT work next time. You best discuss this with your MD if you have not already. People go into true anaphylactic reactions from bee stings and the truly allergic often carry epinephrine to administer if stung. This is serious territory and I am certain there are others on the list who will ditto my comments here. For some one who is not allergic most any topical will help. If your boy is allergic putting any topical on a bee sting would be like trying to put out a forest fire by urination on it. Sorry to be off topic but bee stings are potentially life threatening. John Heckman DDS central Pa 1973 FC > > Oh NO! I hope I don't get hit with patent infringement! I didn't know there was a fix. We have a real wasp problem. I found out this year that my oldest son is extremely allergic to the darn things. Thanks to goodness Benadryl works! > > Dru > 1983fc35rb > > pattypape wrote: > > Hey Dru, > > Good tip on adding the screening, > > This is better than the $20 screen covers sold at > RV supply stores. > > Bill 88 FC Michigan > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dru penland > wrote: > > > > Not to contradict anyone, but I found it much easier to unscrew the > heater from the floor and take out the vent tubes (all screws > exterior) from the outside and pull the whole box in a nice working > environment to work on. My problems with removing only the core unit > from the box were having ample clearance to pull the innards without > hitting other items on the way out such as carpet tack boards, etc. > Also. mine has 90-degree fittings for the propane that would not > remove without hitting the floor of the coach. This fitting, on mine > has to be removed to slide the core out. My aft heater is under one > bed and the dinette, as I have a rear bath model, and there would be > no way to slide the unit out without deconstructing the furnishings > extensively. > > > > My problems with my heaters were paper wasps and dirt daubers. > Before replacing my vents, I took the vent cover off the tubes and > placed a piece of coarse screen wire between the two and sandwiched > it back together. These insects had completely plugged my front > heater rendering it inoperable. > > > > I wish you luck. I bought my coach last year and went one year > without heater working. It's great to have them. > > > > Regards, > > > > akav8r wrote: > > I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase. > THANKS to the > > help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do > list. > > > > Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for > > cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have > > turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater, > > removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws > holding > > the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center > screw > > from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still > the > > heater will not budge from its place. > > > > As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the > > exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through > > each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the > tubes > > and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the > > intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not > > coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove > > these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most > > accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out. > > > > Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't > > understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know > for > > sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be > > there. > > > > Once again THANKS in advance for any help. > > > > Wendel, GA > > 82 FC35 > > "Momentary lapse of reason" > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Dru and Debora > > Corpus Christi, TX > > 1983 FC 35 RB > > Steady Gittin' It! > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > Dru and Debora > Corpus Christi, TX > 1983 FC 35 RB > Steady Gittin' It! > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Propane Heater Removal - dru penland - 11-19-2007 03:05 I do appreciate that information. They hurt me, but he gets a bit more reaction out of it. The yellow jackets have been thick this year. Don't know what the deal is, but they have sure found some good places to hide this year. Some of the nests have been so huge I wonder if they have been under construction for more than one season. Next time we have a scheduled Dr. appointment, I'm going to ask. Hate to be on a good trip somewhere and have one of there attacks. Thanks, Dru 83fc35rb bubblerboy64 wrote: Dru, If your son is allergic to wasp or bee stings DO NOT screw around with local remedies. There is a world of difference between the local reaction which we all get from a bee sting to what happens in a person with a true allergic reaction. Benadryl may NOT work next time. You best discuss this with your MD if you have not already. People go into true anaphylactic reactions from bee stings and the truly allergic often carry epinephrine to administer if stung. This is serious territory and I am certain there are others on the list who will ditto my comments here. For some one who is not allergic most any topical will help. If your boy is allergic putting any topical on a bee sting would be like trying to put out a forest fire by urination on it. Sorry to be off topic but bee stings are potentially life threatening. John Heckman DDS central Pa 1973 FC > > Oh NO! I hope I don't get hit with patent infringement! I didn't know there was a fix. We have a real wasp problem. I found out this year that my oldest son is extremely allergic to the darn things. Thanks to goodness Benadryl works! > > Dru > 1983fc35rb > > pattypape wrote: > > Hey Dru, > > Good tip on adding the screening, > > This is better than the $20 screen covers sold at > RV supply stores. > > Bill 88 FC Michigan > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dru penland > wrote: > > > > Not to contradict anyone, but I found it much easier to unscrew the > heater from the floor and take out the vent tubes (all screws > exterior) from the outside and pull the whole box in a nice working > environment to work on. My problems with removing only the core unit > from the box were having ample clearance to pull the innards without > hitting other items on the way out such as carpet tack boards, etc. > Also. mine has 90-degree fittings for the propane that would not > remove without hitting the floor of the coach. This fitting, on mine > has to be removed to slide the core out. My aft heater is under one > bed and the dinette, as I have a rear bath model, and there would be > no way to slide the unit out without deconstructing the furnishings > extensively. > > > > My problems with my heaters were paper wasps and dirt daubers. > Before replacing my vents, I took the vent cover off the tubes and > placed a piece of coarse screen wire between the two and sandwiched > it back together. These insects had completely plugged my front > heater rendering it inoperable. > > > > I wish you luck. I bought my coach last year and went one year > without heater working. It's great to have them. > > > > Regards, > > > > akav8r wrote: > > I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase. > THANKS to the > > help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do > list. > > > > Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for > > cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have > > turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater, > > removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws > holding > > the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center > screw > > from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still > the > > heater will not budge from its place. > > > > As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the > > exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through > > each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the > tubes > > and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the > > intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not > > coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove > > these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most > > accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out. > > > > Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't > > understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know > for > > sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be > > there. > > > > Once again THANKS in advance for any help. > > > > Wendel, GA > > 82 FC35 > > "Momentary lapse of reason" > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Dru and Debora > > Corpus Christi, TX > > 1983 FC 35 RB > > Steady Gittin' It! > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > Dru and Debora > Corpus Christi, TX > 1983 FC 35 RB > Steady Gittin' It! > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Dru and Debora Corpus Christi, TX 1983 FC 35 RB Steady Gittin' It! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]