the coolant lines to the engine mounted aircompressor have proven to

fail after 20 years. I think it is from the excess heat that gets

trapped above the transmission / below bedroom.(not vented to engine

bay, may be cause of heat in bedroom?). I replaced the coolant lines

today as a PM (preventativeMaintenance) measure.



there are two lines that run from the passanger side block to the

compressor which is mounted above the transmission bell housing. one

hose 28 inches long and the other about 8 inches long



Short hose. there is a trap door under the carpet between rear

dresser and the bed, just about center. I removed the carpeted

baceboard box that covers wires and pipes, lifted the carpet and

unscrewed a metal plate. under the wires is one more removable

plate. the wire plate attaches to the wall behind the wires and to

the floor. with both plates out you have easy access.



the compressor has several lines 2 coolant 2 oil and two air. the

coolant lines are at the top. a 7/8inch wrench is used to remove the

swival end ( oil uses a 3/4) the short hose attaches to back of the

block. when you remove the line you will see the coolant as a check



Long hose. at the other end of the compressor head is the long hose

attached to the compressor with a 7/8 swival fitting. the hose runs

past the tranny mount between the frame and the block and reattaches

to the block above the starter. I removed the compressor end and cut

the hose to make it easy to slip thru a strap. with the bus jacked

up wheels just on the ground,frame stands and chocks inplace, I

reached over the starter (removed battery power and unplugged

chargers) and found the attachement to the block. there are two

lines attached to the block above the starter one is oil to the

compressor. the one you want is the farthest reach and the swival is

7/8 and hose is larger than the oil. unable to get a full size

wrench on the fitting I uses a "stubby whench". A 7/8crows foot and

socket wrench would best serve to loosen the fitting but I used a

bathroom sink wrench(?) (cheap long handel with a flip/flop little

pipe wrench thing on the end). I made the long hose 5 inches longer

as the OEM was jammed against the frame and 'flex tube vent'.

Install the starter end fitting first to make it easy to line up

the thread. I pointed the '90 degree fitting out of the block'

downward a bit to help clear the 'frame pinch area'. I also bent the

flex tube away frm the block for the new line.



the hosefittings are reusable and I wanted to do so but I could not

get high temp quickie tube. I had hydrolic line made but wonder how

well hydrolic oil hose holds up to coolant product?



took about one hour to remove and 2 to install. it was hard to line

up the fitting above the starter and removal of the starter would

have saved an hour. removal of trap door took an hour also.



both hoses with pressed fittings cost about $60.00. SanDiego

Detroit charged $700. for a 88pt parts and labor (July'08). no trap

door access and required starter removal, sounds way fair.



GregoryO'Connor

94ptRomolandCa