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Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace - Kurt Horvath - 09-28-2008 17:03
Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
Well most of this go around for upgrades/fixes are done. Lil_Stankes
are in and working, some new rocker switches, relocate wiring for
VMSpc Silverleaf & upgrade new 2.4 software, it has a new engine file
for the Series 60 @ 470 HP, I'm wondering how that will compare to
the 500hp setting they told me use. New water pumps and plumbing, new
water outlet on curb side, Gay water tank overflow plumbimg, Fresh
water system sanitized, cleaned out behind Splendid 2000
washer/dryer, disassemble, clean, polish & reassemble air horns.
Fixed air purge fresh water flush system and rerouted airlines into
pump bay for easy access. Quick coupler for LP Gas replaced and
copper pipe cut and a inserted union for future disassembly. Jake
Brake troubleshooting. Checked Cannon plug for burnt pins and found
none. I used a 10X loupe to examine the pins and then photographed
them from both sides at 3264 X 2176 resolution and magnified them on
the computer and found no burnt or discoloration on the Cannon plugs
male or female sides, gave them a good shot of electronic contact
cleaner and some di-electric grease and reassembled. I'll have the
spare DDEC IV scanned and checked for the Jake program then
installed to see if that solves the Jake Brake problem, The present
DDEC may have been deactivated by previous owners. Anyway I need to
try out the spare to make sure it will work when I really need it. If
you need or think you'll need a DDEC ECM look on e-bay, good used and
refurbished unit at much less than you'll pay at D.D.. I got one Mfg
in '07 it was used as test unit for a few months and programmed to my
engine for under $600. D.D. want $2500plus for a reman and $'s for
programming.
I still have a problem with the refrigerator not cooling well while
underway. Some of you have tested your coaches with ribbons taped on
and around the sides of the coach and radiator area and have
discovered that there are unique air patterns around the body.
Notably the lack of air flowing into the radiator. I would surmise
that this is true on the roof as well. I'm thinking that this applies
to the refrigerator exhaust vent on the roof and it's relationship to
the vent on the side of the body. I have installed 5 - 130cfm
computer fans in the exhaust vent they will draw 650 CFM. So I think
that would overcome any adverse air flow caused by the effects of
air passing across the coach. Well it still isn't functioning well
while underway, Works great while parked. I'm at a loss as to where
to go from here. Any ideas would be helpful.
The next major task is replacing the muffler. While installing the
Lil-Stanker powered tank vents I stopped to look at the exhaust
stack and reached down to give it a little shake and the chromes
elbow is only held on by the mounting clamp. It's hollow inside, the
baffels are gone it's just a tube. I have one ordered, they are hard
to get. Cummins has a 45 to 60 day back order on the
Donaldson/Nelson/Fleetgaurd muffler part # 86610M. Found one from
Fleetpride, under $250 delivered to the farm. BB wanted $900 +
I would like to insulate the muffler and or the muffler tunnel. I
don't really have a heat issue . But since I'm there doing it anyway
might as well improve it if practical. There is only about 1"
clearance on each side, the tunnel measures 13" X 13.5 on my coach
and the muffler is 11.10 in diameter so you can see there isn't much
clearance to do much of anything. I am considering Thermo Tec exhaust
insulating wrap. It is rated at 2000 degrees continuos use and 3000
degrees intermittent use. It comes in 6" wide rolls and shouldn't be
too hard to install, it's only 1/16th of an inch thick so clearance
isn't a problem. Paint the pipe with some sort of high temp
paint/coating to slow down corrosion. I've read that the first few
runs will cause some smoke/smell but once it's "cured" that will
stop. Paint the muffler, wrap it, clamp it, paint the wrap to seal it
from the elements and install on coach, Sounds easy, TOO EASY!
Somebody with some experience with this needs to chime in here.
Another idea is a smaller diameter muffle with a heat blank from ATP,
Firwin or Kolb. The Fleetgaurde muffler # 82132M would do nicely. It
has almost the same flow rate within 100 CFM and it's 9" in diameter,
that would increase the clearance from the tunnel walls to the
muffler by 100%. 2" VS 1" The downside is 5" diameter opening VS the
6" for the original equipment muffler and pipes. May be a better
option, but more expensive.
If you get this far through this post I still have 20+ CD's of
the `95 - `96 PT 42 and `97 PT 43 Diagrams & Blueprints available. If
you want one send e-mail to kguns@...
Kurt Horvath
95 pt 42 wlwb
10AC
Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace - Eric Perplies - 09-29-2008 00:54
Two comments: Regarding your refrigerator not cooling when underway:
You should verify that the white thermocouple that is fastened on the
right side of your reefer coils is securely attached. It's just a
friction fit. (I had a similar problem and that was the solution.)
I have not changed the muffler on my rig. I understand that it is
challenging to drop the new muffler in and hold it in position so you
can secure it. When you paint the muffler with the very high
temperature paint be aware that this type of paint has a very high
silicone content that sloughs off on your hands easily. I had a
problem with my turbo charger tubes coming apart after painting them
with the high silicone paint. I would mask the clamping area with
tape and remove the masking tape just before clamping.
Another thought: I wonder if adding insulation to the box or the
muffler will improve things? Keeping a large air space around your
hot muffler will promote convection air currents that may be
desirable. Just a thought.
Good luck on your projects.
Eric Perplies
96' 42' WBWL
Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace - p_a_lazar - 09-29-2008 01:44
Kurt,
I would recommend you *not* insulate the muffler. Even BB removed the
insulation they used to use from existing BBs to prevent heat buildup
and fires, as there were a few stack fires and closet fires.
If you don't mind a loud stack, you could also consider a straight
pipe rather than a muffler. When I had my muffler changed, I didn't
notice an appreciable noise reduction from the previous burned
out/rusted out muffler. I'm still pretty loud (the bus as well as me,
lol).
If you wouldn't mind, I'd like one CD of each that you have available,
both the 95-96 and the 97. I could get them from you at Maxton since I
see you are signed up to be there or RATS if you are going.
Thanks.
Paul
97wb43
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath"
>
> Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
>
> Well most of this go around for upgrades/fixes are done. Lil_Stankes
> are in and working, some new rocker switches, relocate wiring for
> VMSpc Silverleaf & upgrade new 2.4 software, it has a new engine file
> for the Series 60 @ 470 HP, I'm wondering how that will compare to
> the 500hp setting they told me use. New water pumps and plumbing, new
> water outlet on curb side, Gay water tank overflow plumbimg, Fresh
> water system sanitized, cleaned out behind Splendid 2000
> washer/dryer, disassemble, clean, polish & reassemble air horns.
> Fixed air purge fresh water flush system and rerouted airlines into
> pump bay for easy access. Quick coupler for LP Gas replaced and
> copper pipe cut and a inserted union for future disassembly. Jake
> Brake troubleshooting. Checked Cannon plug for burnt pins and found
> none. I used a 10X loupe to examine the pins and then photographed
> them from both sides at 3264 X 2176 resolution and magnified them on
> the computer and found no burnt or discoloration on the Cannon plugs
> male or female sides, gave them a good shot of electronic contact
> cleaner and some di-electric grease and reassembled. I'll have the
> spare DDEC IV scanned and checked for the Jake program then
> installed to see if that solves the Jake Brake problem, The present
> DDEC may have been deactivated by previous owners. Anyway I need to
> try out the spare to make sure it will work when I really need it. If
> you need or think you'll need a DDEC ECM look on e-bay, good used and
> refurbished unit at much less than you'll pay at D.D.. I got one Mfg
> in '07 it was used as test unit for a few months and programmed to my
> engine for under $600. D.D. want $2500plus for a reman and $'s for
> programming.
>
> I still have a problem with the refrigerator not cooling well while
> underway. Some of you have tested your coaches with ribbons taped on
> and around the sides of the coach and radiator area and have
> discovered that there are unique air patterns around the body.
> Notably the lack of air flowing into the radiator. I would surmise
> that this is true on the roof as well. I'm thinking that this applies
> to the refrigerator exhaust vent on the roof and it's relationship to
> the vent on the side of the body. I have installed 5 - 130cfm
> computer fans in the exhaust vent they will draw 650 CFM. So I think
> that would overcome any adverse air flow caused by the effects of
> air passing across the coach. Well it still isn't functioning well
> while underway, Works great while parked. I'm at a loss as to where
> to go from here. Any ideas would be helpful.
>
> The next major task is replacing the muffler. While installing the
> Lil-Stanker powered tank vents I stopped to look at the exhaust
> stack and reached down to give it a little shake and the chromes
> elbow is only held on by the mounting clamp. It's hollow inside, the
> baffels are gone it's just a tube. I have one ordered, they are hard
> to get. Cummins has a 45 to 60 day back order on the
> Donaldson/Nelson/Fleetgaurd muffler part # 86610M. Found one from
> Fleetpride, under $250 delivered to the farm. BB wanted $900 +
>
> I would like to insulate the muffler and or the muffler tunnel. I
> don't really have a heat issue . But since I'm there doing it anyway
> might as well improve it if practical. There is only about 1"
> clearance on each side, the tunnel measures 13" X 13.5 on my coach
> and the muffler is 11.10 in diameter so you can see there isn't much
> clearance to do much of anything. I am considering Thermo Tec exhaust
> insulating wrap. It is rated at 2000 degrees continuos use and 3000
> degrees intermittent use. It comes in 6" wide rolls and shouldn't be
> too hard to install, it's only 1/16th of an inch thick so clearance
> isn't a problem. Paint the pipe with some sort of high temp
> paint/coating to slow down corrosion. I've read that the first few
> runs will cause some smoke/smell but once it's "cured" that will
> stop. Paint the muffler, wrap it, clamp it, paint the wrap to seal it
> from the elements and install on coach, Sounds easy, TOO EASY!
> Somebody with some experience with this needs to chime in here.
>
> Another idea is a smaller diameter muffle with a heat blank from ATP,
> Firwin or Kolb. The Fleetgaurde muffler # 82132M would do nicely. It
> has almost the same flow rate within 100 CFM and it's 9" in diameter,
> that would increase the clearance from the tunnel walls to the
> muffler by 100%. 2" VS 1" The downside is 5" diameter opening VS the
> 6" for the original equipment muffler and pipes. May be a better
> option, but more expensive.
>
> If you get this far through this post I still have 20+ CD's of
> the `95 - `96 PT 42 and `97 PT 43 Diagrams & Blueprints available. If
> you want one send e-mail to kguns@...
>
> Kurt Horvath
> 95 pt 42 wlwb
> 10AC
>
Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace - Pete Masterson - 09-29-2008 02:02
I had to get the BB muffler -- not cheap! but it wasn't practical for
me to have left my coach at CCW. (If I had it to do over, I might
have dropped the coach off at CCW, then come back for it in 2 or 3
weeks...)
I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish with the insulation,
wrapping, etc. As installed, there's an inch or so space around the
muffler as it runs up the back corner to the roof. This allows air
flow to carry away the heat through the perforated "grill" at the
roof. It seems like a reasonable design to me. I'd be concerned that
the insulation would cause the internal muffler parts to get
excessively hot.
I understand the desire to paint the muffler to control corrosion --
but isn't the major problem the corrosive effect of the diesel
exhaust on the inside? When my old muffler was pulled out, it was (as
you say) an empty tube. All the internal baffles had vanished. In my
case, the muffler body (tube) was not eroded through except for a
beginning of a hole at the bottom -- probably due to rain water
accumulation.
Indeed, I suspect the major culprit is rain water entering the
muffler from the exhaust port at the top. I attempted to get a true
90 degree stack-end that would tend to keep rain water from entering
the muffler. The (presumably OEM) stack-end was very slightly turned,
but was still mostly open to falling rain. (The replacement that CCW
installed is better, but still will allow wind-driven rain to enter
the muffler, if the wind is blowing the right way.) I plan to put a
bucket or other cover over the exhaust-stack end during storage to
keep the rain water out.
I note that the newest BBs have a 90 degree bend stack-end that has a
foot or so of horizontal pipe, thereby eliminating nearly all chance
of significant rain water collection.
The biggest challenge was finding components in the large diameter
used. Almost all generally available heavy duty diesel exhaust
components max out at 5" diameter.
Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
aeonix1@...
On the road near Scranton, PA
On Sep 29, 2008, at 1:03 AM, Kurt Horvath wrote:
> <snip>
> The next major task is replacing the muffler. While installing the
> Lil-Stanker powered tank vents I stopped to look at the exhaust
> stack and reached down to give it a little shake and the chromes
> elbow is only held on by the mounting clamp. It's hollow inside, the
> baffels are gone it's just a tube. I have one ordered, they are hard
> to get. Cummins has a 45 to 60 day back order on the
> Donaldson/Nelson/Fleetgaurd muffler part # 86610M. Found one from
> Fleetpride, under $250 delivered to the farm. BB wanted $900 +
>
> I would like to insulate the muffler and or the muffler tunnel. I
> don't really have a heat issue . But since I'm there doing it anyway
> might as well improve it if practical. There is only about 1"
> clearance on each side, the tunnel measures 13" X 13.5 on my coach
> and the muffler is 11.10 in diameter so you can see there isn't much
> clearance to do much of anything. I am considering Thermo Tec exhaust
> insulating wrap. It is rated at 2000 degrees continuos use and 3000
> degrees intermittent use. It comes in 6" wide rolls and shouldn't be
> too hard to install, it's only 1/16th of an inch thick so clearance
> isn't a problem. Paint the pipe with some sort of high temp
> paint/coating to slow down corrosion. I've read that the first few
> runs will cause some smoke/smell but once it's "cured" that will
> stop. Paint the muffler, wrap it, clamp it, paint the wrap to seal it
> from the elements and install on coach, Sounds easy, TOO EASY!
> Somebody with some experience with this needs to chime in here.
>
> Another idea is a smaller diameter muffle with a heat blank from ATP,
> Firwin or Kolb. The Fleetgaurde muffler # 82132M would do nicely. It
> has almost the same flow rate within 100 CFM and it's 9" in diameter,
> that would increase the clearance from the tunnel walls to the
> muffler by 100%. 2" VS 1" The downside is 5" diameter opening VS the
> 6" for the original equipment muffler and pipes. May be a better
> option, but more expensive.
>
> If you get this far through this post I still have 20+ CD's of
> the `95 - `96 PT 42 and `97 PT 43 Diagrams & Blueprints available. If
> you want one send e-mail to kguns@...
>
> Kurt Horvath
> 95 pt 42 wlwb
> 10AC
>
>
Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace - Kurt Horvath - 09-29-2008 03:33
I was pretty sure most views would be against the insulation wrap. It
doesn't seem to have a good reputation in respect to corrosion
issues. Pete is correct it did corrode from the inside out.
I thought about ceramic coating before insulating with wrap,the cost
is not in the budget. The people I spoke with asked if I could get to
the inner parts and that it would be a better application if they
could coat the interior as well as the exterior of the muffler.
Doesn't look like that will happen.
Several people have recommended a straight stack. What are the
positive & negative aspects of a straight stack? It would be the
best as far as getting the most clearance in the tunnel and would
greatly increase the area for convection to occur. I would think that
with a small modification to the mounts it would be easier to install
than the huge muffle that's in there now. The fact that the muffler
is just a tube at this point noise is not very much an issue.
Kurt Horvath
95 PT 42
10AC
Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace - Kurt Horvath - 09-29-2008 03:40
Paul & David,
I need your address for the CD
Paul probably going to miss out on Maxton, not sure yet.
e-mail me at kguns@...
Kurt Horvath
95 PT 42
10AC
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, David Brady
wrote:
>
> Hmmm, my muffler and angled up-pipe are insulated with a wire-tied,
> wrap around jacket. The jacket on the base of the muffler definitely
> blocks vertical air passage. Do you guys recommend that I remove
> this insulation? Paul, when did BB cease installing this
insulation, and
> did they ever remove it from the LXi's?
>
> Thanks,
> David Brady
> '02 LXi, NC (home at last!)
>
> p_a_lazar wrote:
> >
> > Kurt,
> >
> > I would recommend you *not* insulate the muffler. Even BB removed
the
> > insulation they used to use from existing BBs to prevent heat
buildup
> > and fires, as there were a few stack fires and closet fires.
> >
> > If you don't mind a loud stack, you could also consider a straight
> > pipe rather than a muffler. When I had my muffler changed, I
didn't
> > notice an appreciable noise reduction from the previous burned
> > out/rusted out muffler. I'm still pretty loud (the bus as well as
me,
> > lol).
> >
> > If you wouldn't mind, I'd like one CD of each that you have
available,
> > both the 95-96 and the 97. I could get them from you at Maxton
since I
> > see you are signed up to be there or RATS if you are going.
> >
> > Thanks.
> > Paul
> > 97wb43
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
> > >
> > > Well most of this go around for upgrades/fixes are done.
Lil_Stankes
> > > are in and working, some new rocker switches, relocate wiring
for
> > > VMSpc Silverleaf & upgrade new 2.4 software, it has a new
engine file
> > > for the Series 60 @ 470 HP, I'm wondering how that will compare
to
> > > the 500hp setting they told me use. New water pumps and
plumbing, new
> > > water outlet on curb side, Gay water tank overflow plumbimg,
Fresh
> > > water system sanitized, cleaned out behind Splendid 2000
> > > washer/dryer, disassemble, clean, polish & reassemble air horns.
> > > Fixed air purge fresh water flush system and rerouted airlines
into
> > > pump bay for easy access. Quick coupler for LP Gas replaced and
> > > copper pipe cut and a inserted union for future disassembly.
Jake
> > > Brake troubleshooting. Checked Cannon plug for burnt pins and
found
> > > none. I used a 10X loupe to examine the pins and then
photographed
> > > them from both sides at 3264 X 2176 resolution and magnified
them on
> > > the computer and found no burnt or discoloration on the Cannon
plugs
> > > male or female sides, gave them a good shot of electronic
contact
> > > cleaner and some di-electric grease and reassembled. I'll have
the
> > > spare DDEC IV scanned and checked for the Jake program then
> > > installed to see if that solves the Jake Brake problem, The
present
> > > DDEC may have been deactivated by previous owners. Anyway I
need to
> > > try out the spare to make sure it will work when I really need
it. If
> > > you need or think you'll need a DDEC ECM look on e-bay, good
used and
> > > refurbished unit at much less than you'll pay at D.D.. I got
one Mfg
> > > in '07 it was used as test unit for a few months and programmed
to my
> > > engine for under $600. D.D. want $2500plus for a reman and $'s
for
> > > programming.
> > >
> > > I still have a problem with the refrigerator not cooling well
while
> > > underway. Some of you have tested your coaches with ribbons
taped on
> > > and around the sides of the coach and radiator area and have
> > > discovered that there are unique air patterns around the body.
> > > Notably the lack of air flowing into the radiator. I would
surmise
> > > that this is true on the roof as well. I'm thinking that this
applies
> > > to the refrigerator exhaust vent on the roof and it's
relationship to
> > > the vent on the side of the body. I have installed 5 - 130cfm
> > > computer fans in the exhaust vent they will draw 650 CFM. So I
think
> > > that would overcome any adverse air flow caused by the effects
of
> > > air passing across the coach. Well it still isn't functioning
well
> > > while underway, Works great while parked. I'm at a loss as to
where
> > > to go from here. Any ideas would be helpful.
> > >
> > > The next major task is replacing the muffler. While installing
the
> > > Lil-Stanker powered tank vents I stopped to look at the exhaust
> > > stack and reached down to give it a little shake and the chromes
> > > elbow is only held on by the mounting clamp. It's hollow
inside, the
> > > baffels are gone it's just a tube. I have one ordered, they are
hard
> > > to get. Cummins has a 45 to 60 day back order on the
> > > Donaldson/Nelson/Fleetgaurd muffler part # 86610M. Found one
from
> > > Fleetpride, under $250 delivered to the farm. BB wanted $900 +
> > >
> > > I would like to insulate the muffler and or the muffler tunnel.
I
> > > don't really have a heat issue . But since I'm there doing it
anyway
> > > might as well improve it if practical. There is only about 1"
> > > clearance on each side, the tunnel measures 13" X 13.5 on my
coach
> > > and the muffler is 11.10 in diameter so you can see there isn't
much
> > > clearance to do much of anything. I am considering Thermo Tec
exhaust
> > > insulating wrap. It is rated at 2000 degrees continuos use and
3000
> > > degrees intermittent use. It comes in 6" wide rolls and
shouldn't be
> > > too hard to install, it's only 1/16th of an inch thick so
clearance
> > > isn't a problem. Paint the pipe with some sort of high temp
> > > paint/coating to slow down corrosion. I've read that the first
few
> > > runs will cause some smoke/smell but once it's "cured" that will
> > > stop. Paint the muffler, wrap it, clamp it, paint the wrap to
seal it
> > > from the elements and install on coach, Sounds easy, TOO EASY!
> > > Somebody with some experience with this needs to chime in here.
> > >
> > > Another idea is a smaller diameter muffle with a heat blank
from ATP,
> > > Firwin or Kolb. The Fleetgaurde muffler # 82132M would do
nicely. It
> > > has almost the same flow rate within 100 CFM and it's 9" in
diameter,
> > > that would increase the clearance from the tunnel walls to the
> > > muffler by 100%. 2" VS 1" The downside is 5" diameter opening
VS the
> > > 6" for the original equipment muffler and pipes. May be a better
> > > option, but more expensive.
> > >
> > > If you get this far through this post I still have 20+ CD's of
> > > the `95 - `96 PT 42 and `97 PT 43 Diagrams & Blueprints
available. If
> > > you want one send e-mail to kguns@
> > >
> > > Kurt Horvath
> > > 95 pt 42 wlwb
> > > 10AC
> > >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
------
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG.
> > Version: 7.5.526 / Virus Database: 270.7.5/1696 - Release Date:
9/28/2008 1:30 PM
> >
>
Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace - Gregory OConnor - 09-29-2008 04:03
Kurt,
What,, Whitewalls ?
try running the refer on the inverter when you travel. (may have to
run an extension cord to the refer mechanical compartment) running
it 110volts with good result (cold beer) would rule out airmovement
and point issue at lpg heater or the flame its self. you may have so
much air flow going down the road that the gradual cooling necessary
for amonia evaporation is compramised, or the flame turns white and
heat gets sucked past the boiler???? Or the flame constantly
requires relighting with all the turbulance. maybe 110 and no fan
will work better while traveling??
I wonder if the hotbedroom is not mostly the heat from the tranny
and tires being trapped up against the bell end of the engine?? the
stack may be a minimal issue and more tolerable if there was a way
to vent the tire tranny area??
Greg94ptCa
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath"
wrote:
>
> I was pretty sure most views would be against the insulation wrap.
It
> doesn't seem to have a good reputation in respect to corrosion
> issues. Pete is correct it did corrode from the inside out.
>
> I thought about ceramic coating before insulating with wrap,the
cost
> is not in the budget. The people I spoke with asked if I could get
to
> the inner parts and that it would be a better application if they
> could coat the interior as well as the exterior of the muffler.
> Doesn't look like that will happen.
>
> Several people have recommended a straight stack. What are the
> positive & negative aspects of a straight stack? It would be the
> best as far as getting the most clearance in the tunnel and would
> greatly increase the area for convection to occur. I would think
that
> with a small modification to the mounts it would be easier to
install
> than the huge muffle that's in there now. The fact that the
muffler
> is just a tube at this point noise is not very much an issue.
>
> Kurt Horvath
> 95 PT 42
> 10AC
>
Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace - p_a_lazar - 09-29-2008 04:06
David,
Don't know when BB changed the insulation situation, but I looked at a
number of 97s prior to buying mine, and some had had fire damage
(fixed) and all had the insulation removed.
Paul
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, David Brady
>
> Hmmm, my muffler and angled up-pipe are insulated with a wire-tied,
> wrap around jacket. The jacket on the base of the muffler definitely
> blocks vertical air passage. Do you guys recommend that I remove
> this insulation? Paul, when did BB cease installing this insulation, and
> did they ever remove it from the LXi's?
>
> Thanks,
> David Brady
> '02 LXi, NC (home at last!)
>
> p_a_lazar wrote:
> >
> > Kurt,
> >
> > I would recommend you *not* insulate the muffler. Even BB removed the
> > insulation they used to use from existing BBs to prevent heat buildup
> > and fires, as there were a few stack fires and closet fires.
> >
> > If you don't mind a loud stack, you could also consider a straight
> > pipe rather than a muffler. When I had my muffler changed, I didn't
> > notice an appreciable noise reduction from the previous burned
> > out/rusted out muffler. I'm still pretty loud (the bus as well as me,
> > lol).
> >
> > If you wouldn't mind, I'd like one CD of each that you have available,
> > both the 95-96 and the 97. I could get them from you at Maxton since I
> > see you are signed up to be there or RATS if you are going.
> >
> > Thanks.
> > Paul
> > 97wb43
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
> > >
> > > Well most of this go around for upgrades/fixes are done. Lil_Stankes
> > > are in and working, some new rocker switches, relocate wiring for
> > > VMSpc Silverleaf & upgrade new 2.4 software, it has a new engine
file
> > > for the Series 60 @ 470 HP, I'm wondering how that will compare to
> > > the 500hp setting they told me use. New water pumps and
plumbing, new
> > > water outlet on curb side, Gay water tank overflow plumbimg, Fresh
> > > water system sanitized, cleaned out behind Splendid 2000
> > > washer/dryer, disassemble, clean, polish & reassemble air horns.
> > > Fixed air purge fresh water flush system and rerouted airlines into
> > > pump bay for easy access. Quick coupler for LP Gas replaced and
> > > copper pipe cut and a inserted union for future disassembly. Jake
> > > Brake troubleshooting. Checked Cannon plug for burnt pins and found
> > > none. I used a 10X loupe to examine the pins and then photographed
> > > them from both sides at 3264 X 2176 resolution and magnified them on
> > > the computer and found no burnt or discoloration on the Cannon plugs
> > > male or female sides, gave them a good shot of electronic contact
> > > cleaner and some di-electric grease and reassembled. I'll have the
> > > spare DDEC IV scanned and checked for the Jake program then
> > > installed to see if that solves the Jake Brake problem, The present
> > > DDEC may have been deactivated by previous owners. Anyway I need to
> > > try out the spare to make sure it will work when I really need
it. If
> > > you need or think you'll need a DDEC ECM look on e-bay, good
used and
> > > refurbished unit at much less than you'll pay at D.D.. I got one Mfg
> > > in '07 it was used as test unit for a few months and programmed
to my
> > > engine for under $600. D.D. want $2500plus for a reman and $'s for
> > > programming.
> > >
> > > I still have a problem with the refrigerator not cooling well while
> > > underway. Some of you have tested your coaches with ribbons taped on
> > > and around the sides of the coach and radiator area and have
> > > discovered that there are unique air patterns around the body.
> > > Notably the lack of air flowing into the radiator. I would surmise
> > > that this is true on the roof as well. I'm thinking that this
applies
> > > to the refrigerator exhaust vent on the roof and it's
relationship to
> > > the vent on the side of the body. I have installed 5 - 130cfm
> > > computer fans in the exhaust vent they will draw 650 CFM. So I think
> > > that would overcome any adverse air flow caused by the effects of
> > > air passing across the coach. Well it still isn't functioning well
> > > while underway, Works great while parked. I'm at a loss as to where
> > > to go from here. Any ideas would be helpful.
> > >
> > > The next major task is replacing the muffler. While installing the
> > > Lil-Stanker powered tank vents I stopped to look at the exhaust
> > > stack and reached down to give it a little shake and the chromes
> > > elbow is only held on by the mounting clamp. It's hollow inside, the
> > > baffels are gone it's just a tube. I have one ordered, they are hard
> > > to get. Cummins has a 45 to 60 day back order on the
> > > Donaldson/Nelson/Fleetgaurd muffler part # 86610M. Found one from
> > > Fleetpride, under $250 delivered to the farm. BB wanted $900 +
> > >
> > > I would like to insulate the muffler and or the muffler tunnel. I
> > > don't really have a heat issue . But since I'm there doing it anyway
> > > might as well improve it if practical. There is only about 1"
> > > clearance on each side, the tunnel measures 13" X 13.5 on my coach
> > > and the muffler is 11.10 in diameter so you can see there isn't much
> > > clearance to do much of anything. I am considering Thermo Tec
exhaust
> > > insulating wrap. It is rated at 2000 degrees continuos use and 3000
> > > degrees intermittent use. It comes in 6" wide rolls and shouldn't be
> > > too hard to install, it's only 1/16th of an inch thick so clearance
> > > isn't a problem. Paint the pipe with some sort of high temp
> > > paint/coating to slow down corrosion. I've read that the first few
> > > runs will cause some smoke/smell but once it's "cured" that will
> > > stop. Paint the muffler, wrap it, clamp it, paint the wrap to
seal it
> > > from the elements and install on coach, Sounds easy, TOO EASY!
> > > Somebody with some experience with this needs to chime in here.
> > >
> > > Another idea is a smaller diameter muffle with a heat blank from
ATP,
> > > Firwin or Kolb. The Fleetgaurde muffler # 82132M would do nicely. It
> > > has almost the same flow rate within 100 CFM and it's 9" in
diameter,
> > > that would increase the clearance from the tunnel walls to the
> > > muffler by 100%. 2" VS 1" The downside is 5" diameter opening VS the
> > > 6" for the original equipment muffler and pipes. May be a better
> > > option, but more expensive.
> > >
> > > If you get this far through this post I still have 20+ CD's of
> > > the `95 - `96 PT 42 and `97 PT 43 Diagrams & Blueprints
available. If
> > > you want one send e-mail to kguns@
> > >
> > > Kurt Horvath
> > > 95 pt 42 wlwb
> > > 10AC
> > >
> >
> >
> >
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG.
> > Version: 7.5.526 / Virus Database: 270.7.5/1696 - Release Date:
9/28/2008 1:30 PM
> >
>
Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace - David Brady - 09-29-2008 04:36
Hmmm, my muffler and angled up-pipe are insulated with a wire-tied,
wrap around jacket. The jacket on the base of the muffler definitely
blocks vertical air passage. Do you guys recommend that I remove
this insulation? Paul, when did BB cease installing this insulation, and
did they ever remove it from the LXi's?
Thanks,
David Brady
'02 LXi, NC (home at last!)
p_a_lazar wrote:
Kurt,
I would recommend you *not* insulate the muffler. Even BB removed the
insulation they used to use from existing BBs to prevent heat buildup
and fires, as there were a few stack fires and closet fires.
If you don't mind a loud stack, you could also consider a straight
pipe rather than a muffler. When I had my muffler changed, I didn't
notice an appreciable noise reduction from the previous burned
out/rusted out muffler. I'm still pretty loud (the bus as well as me,
lol).
If you wouldn't mind, I'd like one CD of each that you have available,
both the 95-96 and the 97. I could get them from you at Maxton since I
see you are signed up to be there or RATS if you are going.
Thanks.
Paul
97wb43
--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com",
"Kurt Horvath" "kguns@..." wrote:
>
> Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
>
> Well most of this go around for upgrades/fixes are done.
Lil_Stankes
> are in and working, some new rocker switches, relocate wiring for
> VMSpc Silverleaf & upgrade new 2.4 software, it has a new
engine file
> for the Series 60 @ 470 HP, I'm wondering how that will compare to
> the 500hp setting they told me use. New water pumps and plumbing,
new
> water outlet on curb side, Gay water tank overflow plumbimg, Fresh
> water system sanitized, cleaned out behind Splendid 2000
> washer/dryer, disassemble, clean, polish & reassemble air
horns.
> Fixed air purge fresh water flush system and rerouted airlines
into
> pump bay for easy access. Quick coupler for LP Gas replaced and
> copper pipe cut and a inserted union for future disassembly. Jake
> Brake troubleshooting. Checked Cannon plug for burnt pins and
found
> none. I used a 10X loupe to examine the pins and then photographed
> them from both sides at 3264 X 2176 resolution and magnified them
on
> the computer and found no burnt or discoloration on the Cannon
plugs
> male or female sides, gave them a good shot of electronic contact
> cleaner and some di-electric grease and reassembled. I'll have the
> spare DDEC IV scanned and checked for the Jake program then
> installed to see if that solves the Jake Brake problem, The
present
> DDEC may have been deactivated by previous owners. Anyway I need
to
> try out the spare to make sure it will work when I really need it.
If
> you need or think you'll need a DDEC ECM look on e-bay, good used
and
> refurbished unit at much less than you'll pay at D.D.. I got one
Mfg
> in '07 it was used as test unit for a few months and programmed to
my
> engine for under $600. D.D. want $2500plus for a reman and $'s for
> programming.
>
> I still have a problem with the refrigerator not cooling well
while
> underway. Some of you have tested your coaches with ribbons taped
on
> and around the sides of the coach and radiator area and have
> discovered that there are unique air patterns around the body.
> Notably the lack of air flowing into the radiator. I would surmise
> that this is true on the roof as well. I'm thinking that this
applies
> to the refrigerator exhaust vent on the roof and it's relationship
to
> the vent on the side of the body. I have installed 5 - 130cfm
> computer fans in the exhaust vent they will draw 650 CFM. So I
think
> that would overcome any adverse air flow caused by the effects of
> air passing across the coach. Well it still isn't functioning well
> while underway, Works great while parked. I'm at a loss as to
where
> to go from here. Any ideas would be helpful.
>
> The next major task is replacing the muffler. While installing the
> Lil-Stanker powered tank vents I stopped to look at the exhaust
> stack and reached down to give it a little shake and the chromes
> elbow is only held on by the mounting clamp. It's hollow inside,
the
> baffels are gone it's just a tube. I have one ordered, they are
hard
> to get. Cummins has a 45 to 60 day back order on the
> Donaldson/Nelson/Fleetgaurd muffler part # 86610M. Found one
from
> Fleetpride, under $250 delivered to the farm. BB wanted $900 +
>
> I would like to insulate the muffler and or the muffler tunnel. I
> don't really have a heat issue . But since I'm there doing it
anyway
> might as well improve it if practical. There is only about 1"
> clearance on each side, the tunnel measures 13" X 13.5 on my coach
> and the muffler is 11.10 in diameter so you can see there isn't
much
> clearance to do much of anything. I am considering Thermo Tec
exhaust
> insulating wrap. It is rated at 2000 degrees continuos use and
3000
> degrees intermittent use. It comes in 6" wide rolls and shouldn't
be
> too hard to install, it's only 1/16th of an inch thick so
clearance
> isn't a problem. Paint the pipe with some sort of high temp
> paint/coating to slow down corrosion. I've read that the first few
> runs will cause some smoke/smell but once it's "cured" that will
> stop. Paint the muffler, wrap it, clamp it, paint the wrap to seal
it
> from the elements and install on coach, Sounds easy, TOO EASY!
> Somebody with some experience with this needs to chime in here.
>
> Another idea is a smaller diameter muffle with a heat blank from
ATP,
> Firwin or Kolb. The Fleetgaurde muffler # 82132M would do nicely.
It
> has almost the same flow rate within 100 CFM and it's 9" in
diameter,
> that would increase the clearance from the tunnel walls to the
> muffler by 100%. 2" VS 1" The downside is 5" diameter opening VS
the
> 6" for the original equipment muffler and pipes. May be a better
> option, but more expensive.
>
> If you get this far through this post I still have 20+ CD's of
> the `95 - `96 PT 42 and `97 PT 43 Diagrams & Blueprints
available. If
> you want one send e-mail to kguns@...
>
> Kurt Horvath
> 95 pt 42 wlwb
> 10AC
>
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.526 / Virus Database: 270.7.5/1696 - Release Date: 9/28/2008 1:30 PM
Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace - Kurt Horvath - 09-29-2008 05:51
Gregg,
I want spokes on the wheels! :}
I usually run it on LP. I'll give the 110 V a chance.
Kurt Horvath
95 PT 42
10AC
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
>
> Kurt,
>
> What,, Whitewalls ?
>
> try running the refer on the inverter when you travel. (may have
to
> run an extension cord to the refer mechanical compartment) running
> it 110volts with good result (cold beer) would rule out airmovement
> and point issue at lpg heater or the flame its self. you may have
so
> much air flow going down the road that the gradual cooling
necessary
> for amonia evaporation is compramised, or the flame turns white
and
> heat gets sucked past the boiler???? Or the flame constantly
> requires relighting with all the turbulance. maybe 110 and no fan
> will work better while traveling??
>
> I wonder if the hotbedroom is not mostly the heat from the tranny
> and tires being trapped up against the bell end of the engine?? the
> stack may be a minimal issue and more tolerable if there was a way
> to vent the tire tranny area??
>
> Greg94ptCa
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath"
> wrote:
> >
> > I was pretty sure most views would be against the insulation
wrap.
> It
> > doesn't seem to have a good reputation in respect to corrosion
> > issues. Pete is correct it did corrode from the inside out.
> >
> > I thought about ceramic coating before insulating with wrap,the
> cost
> > is not in the budget. The people I spoke with asked if I could
get
> to
> > the inner parts and that it would be a better application if they
> > could coat the interior as well as the exterior of the muffler.
> > Doesn't look like that will happen.
> >
> > Several people have recommended a straight stack. What are the
> > positive & negative aspects of a straight stack? It would be the
> > best as far as getting the most clearance in the tunnel and would
> > greatly increase the area for convection to occur. I would think
> that
> > with a small modification to the mounts it would be easier to
> install
> > than the huge muffle that's in there now. The fact that the
> muffler
> > is just a tube at this point noise is not very much an issue.
> >
> > Kurt Horvath
> > 95 PT 42
> > 10AC
> >
>