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Generator door - Printable Version +- Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum (http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com) +-- Forum: Yahoo Groups Archive (/forumdisplay.php?fid=61) +--- Forum: WanderlodgeForum (/forumdisplay.php?fid=63) +--- Thread: Generator door (/showthread.php?tid=7740) |
Generator door - hippieforever3 - 03-07-2009 09:46 While I was refurbing the generator (12.5 Kohler), I took the door off and am now getting ready to put it back on. It's real clear to me that it needs a layer of sound insulation because a naked piece of sheet metal provides almost no sound deadening and probably amplifies sound. It's also pretty flimsy and flexes all over the place. I think I'm going to install some form of stiffener frame around the outside edge and while I was looking at all that I thought it might be good to hard mount it to the roller rails so it doesn't float all over the place and vibrate. I'm also looking at the idea of replacing the cheesey aluminum flange around the generator opening with some type of molding that has a flexible portion to mate with the door. I think that should help with sound too. Any comments, advice, part recommendations? I do have one concern that if I hard mount the door to the rails I might have nasty problems if the door ever bottoms out. Have anyone else done spmething like this? How has it worked out? Regards, GPSGary 1984FC35SB Generator door - Scott Forman - 03-07-2009 12:32 I can't comment on the frame, but definately add the insulation. When I did my old FC, I used the thin stuff from JC Whitney and it worked fine, but I have since discovered the thicker stuff Birtles sells and I swear by it. On the aluminum surround, I also had the idea of making a flexible mating surface to the door. I used some of the insulation for that as well, glued it on so that it hung off and covered the gap. Not the most scientific design, but it got the job done and was holding up fine when I sold the coach. Any open space you can "plug" helps with sound deadening. Also, I highly recommend you consider changing out to a 12v radiator fan to cut down on noise as I discussed in previous posts. HUGE difference. Scott Formn 86 PT38 Memphis --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "hippieforever3" > > While I was refurbing the generator (12.5 Kohler), I took the door off and am now getting ready to put it back on. > > It's real clear to me that it needs a layer of sound insulation because a naked piece of sheet metal provides almost no sound deadening and probably amplifies sound. > > It's also pretty flimsy and flexes all over the place. I think I'm going to install some form of stiffener frame around the outside edge and while I was looking at all that I thought it might be good to hard mount it to the roller rails so it doesn't float all over the place and vibrate. I'm also looking at the idea of replacing the cheesey aluminum flange around the generator opening with some type of molding that has a flexible portion to mate with the door. I think that should help with sound too. > > Any comments, advice, part recommendations? > > I do have one concern that if I hard mount the door to the rails I might have nasty problems if the door ever bottoms out. > > Have anyone else done spmething like this? > How has it worked out? > > Regards, > GPSGary > 1984FC35SB > Generator door - timvasqz - 03-07-2009 13:55 flimsy has little to do with gauge of the metal and more to do with design structure. if you build the new one with some bead rolls, the task is complete or attach some solid core heat insulation pannel to it and a thin alumnium sheet on the inside. strength with foam core requires chords on both sides and the foam acts as the diagonals of a truss so the insulation wont help with sound bouncing --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "hippieforever3" > > While I was refurbing the generator (12.5 Kohler), I took the door off and am now getting ready to put it back on. > > It's real clear to me that it needs a layer of sound insulation because a naked piece of sheet metal provides almost no sound deadening and probably amplifies sound. > > It's also pretty flimsy and flexes all over the place. I think I'm going to install some form of stiffener frame around the outside edge and while I was looking at all that I thought it might be good to hard mount it to the roller rails so it doesn't float all over the place and vibrate. I'm also looking at the idea of replacing the cheesey aluminum flange around the generator opening with some type of molding that has a flexible portion to mate with the door. I think that should help with sound too. > > Any comments, advice, part recommendations? > > I do have one concern that if I hard mount the door to the rails I might have nasty problems if the door ever bottoms out. > > Have anyone else done spmething like this? > How has it worked out? > > Regards, > GPSGary > 1984FC35SB > Generator door - Wayne Kotila - 03-07-2009 17:00 Birtles, is that a store?
Waybe
From: Scott Forman <scottforman75@...> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2009 6:32:02 PM Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Generator door I can't comment on the frame, but definately add the insulation. When I did my old FC, I used the thin stuff from JC Whitney and it worked fine, but I have since discovered the thicker stuff Birtles sells and I swear by it. On the aluminum surround, I also had the idea of making a flexible mating surface to the door. I used some of the insulation for that as well, glued it on so that it hung off and covered the gap. Not the most scientific design, but it got the job done and was holding up fine when I sold the coach. Any open space you can "plug" helps with sound deadening. Also, I highly recommend you consider changing out to a 12v radiator fan to cut down on noise as I discussed in previous posts. HUGE difference. Scott Formn 86 PT38 Memphis --- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "hippieforever3" > > While I was refurbing the generator (12.5 Kohler), I took the door off and am now getting ready to put it back on. > > It's real clear to me that it needs a layer of sound insulation because a naked piece of sheet metal provides almost no sound deadening and probably amplifies sound. > > It's also pretty flimsy and flexes all over the place. I think I'm going to install some form of stiffener frame around the outside edge and while I was looking at all that I thought it might be good to hard mount it to the roller rails so it doesn't float all over the place and vibrate. I'm also looking at the idea of replacing the cheesey aluminum flange around the generator opening with some type of molding that has a flexible portion to mate with the door. I think that should help with sound too. > > Any comments, advice, part recommendations? > > I do have one concern that if I hard mount the door to the rails I might have nasty problems if the door ever bottoms out. > > Have anyone else done spmething like this? > How has it worked out? > > Regards, > GPSGary > 1984FC35SB > Generator door - mbulriss - 03-07-2009 17:32 > Birtles, is that a store? LOL, kinda sorta.... Stephen Birtles (email: cape0001@...) is a long time member here. He is a good guy who supplies many parts for our older Birds, including the insulation. His business name is Dupree Products (http://www.dupreeproducts.com). He'll be around soon to reply when he sees this thread. Mike Bulriss 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan" San Antonio, TX --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wayne Kotila > > Birtles, is that a store? > Waybe > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Scott Forman <scottforman75@...> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2009 6:32:02 PM > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Generator door > > > I can't comment on the frame, but definately add the insulation. When I did my old FC, I used the thin stuff from JC Whitney and it worked fine, but I have since discovered the thicker stuff Birtles sells and I swear by it. > > On the aluminum surround, I also had the idea of making a flexible mating surface to the door. I used some of the insulation for that as well, glued it on so that it hung off and covered the gap. Not the most scientific design, but it got the job done and was holding up fine when I sold the coach. Any open space you can "plug" helps with sound deadening. > > Also, I highly recommend you consider changing out to a 12v radiator fan to cut down on noise as I discussed in previous posts. HUGE difference. > > Scott Formn > 86 PT38 > Memphis > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "hippieforever3" > > > > While I was refurbing the generator (12.5 Kohler), I took the door off and am now getting ready to put it back on. > > > > It's real clear to me that it needs a layer of sound insulation because a naked piece of sheet metal provides almost no sound deadening and probably amplifies sound. > > > > It's also pretty flimsy and flexes all over the place. I think I'm going to install some form of stiffener frame around the outside edge and while I was looking at all that I thought it might be good to hard mount it to the roller rails so it doesn't float all over the place and vibrate. I'm also looking at the idea of replacing the cheesey aluminum flange around the generator opening with some type of molding that has a flexible portion to mate with the door. I think that should help with sound too. > > > > Any comments, advice, part recommendations? > > > > I do have one concern that if I hard mount the door to the rails I might have nasty problems if the door ever bottoms out. > > > > Have anyone else done spmething like this? > > How has it worked out? > > > > Regards, > > GPSGary > > 1984FC35SB > > > Generator door - Stephen Birtles - 03-08-2009 12:07 Hello You Rang? --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@...> wrote: > > > Birtles, is that a store? > > LOL, kinda sorta.... Stephen Birtles (email: cape0001@...) is a long time member here. He is a good guy who supplies many parts for our older Birds, including the insulation. His business name is Dupree Products (http://www.dupreeproducts.com). He'll be around soon to reply when he sees this thread. > > Mike Bulriss > 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan" > San Antonio, TX > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wayne Kotila > > > > Birtles, is that a store? > > Waybe > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > From: Scott Forman <scottforman75@> > > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2009 6:32:02 PM > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Generator door > > > > > > I can't comment on the frame, but definately add the insulation. When I did my old FC, I used the thin stuff from JC Whitney and it worked fine, but I have since discovered the thicker stuff Birtles sells and I swear by it. > > > > On the aluminum surround, I also had the idea of making a flexible mating surface to the door. I used some of the insulation for that as well, glued it on so that it hung off and covered the gap. Not the most scientific design, but it got the job done and was holding up fine when I sold the coach. Any open space you can "plug" helps with sound deadening. > > > > Also, I highly recommend you consider changing out to a 12v radiator fan to cut down on noise as I discussed in previous posts. HUGE difference. > > > > Scott Formn > > 86 PT38 > > Memphis > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "hippieforever3" > > > > > > While I was refurbing the generator (12.5 Kohler), I took the door off and am now getting ready to put it back on. > > > > > > It's real clear to me that it needs a layer of sound insulation because a naked piece of sheet metal provides almost no sound deadening and probably amplifies sound. > > > > > > It's also pretty flimsy and flexes all over the place. I think I'm going to install some form of stiffener frame around the outside edge and while I was looking at all that I thought it might be good to hard mount it to the roller rails so it doesn't float all over the place and vibrate. I'm also looking at the idea of replacing the cheesey aluminum flange around the generator opening with some type of molding that has a flexible portion to mate with the door. I think that should help with sound too. > > > > > > Any comments, advice, part recommendations? > > > > > > I do have one concern that if I hard mount the door to the rails I might have nasty problems if the door ever bottoms out. > > > > > > Have anyone else done spmething like this? > > > How has it worked out? > > > > > > Regards, > > > GPSGary > > > 1984FC35SB > > > > > > Generator door - Stephen Birtles - 03-08-2009 12:08 OOPS no signature Birtles Stephen 77c35 --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles" > > Hello You Rang? > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@> wrote: > > > > > Birtles, is that a store? > > > > LOL, kinda sorta.... Stephen Birtles (email: cape0001@) is a long time member here. He is a good guy who supplies many parts for our older Birds, including the insulation. His business name is Dupree Products (http://www.dupreeproducts.com). He'll be around soon to reply when he sees this thread. > > > > Mike Bulriss > > 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan" > > San Antonio, TX > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wayne Kotila > > > > > > Birtles, is that a store? > > > Waybe > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > From: Scott Forman <scottforman75@> > > > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > > > Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2009 6:32:02 PM > > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Generator door > > > > > > > > > I can't comment on the frame, but definately add the insulation. When I did my old FC, I used the thin stuff from JC Whitney and it worked fine, but I have since discovered the thicker stuff Birtles sells and I swear by it. > > > > > > On the aluminum surround, I also had the idea of making a flexible mating surface to the door. I used some of the insulation for that as well, glued it on so that it hung off and covered the gap. Not the most scientific design, but it got the job done and was holding up fine when I sold the coach. Any open space you can "plug" helps with sound deadening. > > > > > > Also, I highly recommend you consider changing out to a 12v radiator fan to cut down on noise as I discussed in previous posts. HUGE difference. > > > > > > Scott Formn > > > 86 PT38 > > > Memphis > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "hippieforever3" wrote: > > > > > > > > While I was refurbing the generator (12.5 Kohler), I took the door off and am now getting ready to put it back on. > > > > > > > > It's real clear to me that it needs a layer of sound insulation because a naked piece of sheet metal provides almost no sound deadening and probably amplifies sound. > > > > > > > > It's also pretty flimsy and flexes all over the place. I think I'm going to install some form of stiffener frame around the outside edge and while I was looking at all that I thought it might be good to hard mount it to the roller rails so it doesn't float all over the place and vibrate. I'm also looking at the idea of replacing the cheesey aluminum flange around the generator opening with some type of molding that has a flexible portion to mate with the door. I think that should help with sound too. > > > > > > > > Any comments, advice, part recommendations? > > > > > > > > I do have one concern that if I hard mount the door to the rails I might have nasty problems if the door ever bottoms out. > > > > > > > > Have anyone else done spmething like this? > > > > How has it worked out? > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > GPSGary > > > > 1984FC35SB > > > > > > > > > > |