Thanks Chuck, and I'll do that very soon. I'm a little buried in details at the moment in preparing for this trip this weekend to Quartzsite. When I went to find those images, I couldn't, and I'll need to redo them. One more try at Lowes and Home Depot on Wednesday.

Regards,

Donn

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Donn,

Every Ace, True Value, and Lowes around here has both the plastic and brass valves for the Moen. On our 82 FC all faucets and the tub use the same cartridge. I have two cartridges here at the house. Send me a picture and I will see if it looks like the same part.

Chuck Wheeler

1982 FC 31 SB

Fort Worth TX

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From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of George F. VerDuin
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 11:46 AM
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] DC electrical circuit

Hi Don.

On 01/07/2012 11:53 AM, "PDMcCripe@aol.com" wrote:

Greetings all,

We recently began to experience intermittent failure of the old Dometic RM 3804 refrigerator, indicative of an impending circuit board replacement or repair. However, the problem has compounded in as much as I discovered also the failure of the essential DC electrical power to the rear of the refrigerator. Replacing the power source with an external 12 vdc battery restored operation to the refrigerator. I'm unable to locate the fuse or other protective device for that circuit in either the forward electrical bay or in any overhead compartments. Does anyone have an idea where this seemingly easy-to-find item would reside in a 1991 year/model PT40?

Mine is a 1995 BMC so we will not be a carbon copy.
The refer needs continuous power so the source should be
after the battery disconnect switch
before house and ignition master relays.
I believe the BMC feed point is adjacent to the charger/inverter on a post with 8 wires.
There are a few, but perhaps not the refer, circuit breakers in the road-side basement as well.
They are "mount on the wall" type devices, not part of a bus bar distribution array.
I'll know better when I finish cleaning up the connections before spring [I have some corrosion].

The intermittent nature of your failure sounds a bit like mine.
My issue is with 15+ years of open connection block exposure to whatever.
The last straw was needing to hire a mechanic to find a bad connection on the hydraulic pump for the levelers.
Now I have a "mission".
Protective devices also sometimes fail in this mode when they are the self-reset type.
The worst-case failure might be vibration caused insulation failure for a wire [tough to find and repair].

Also, back in September and October I was searching for replacement faucet cartridges for my shower/tub. All the responses I received referred me to Moen. Moen however has denied ownership of the design I presented them in a photograph, pointing out that Moen is plastic and my cartridge is all-metal. I'm still searching. I can't declare with certainty that what I'm trying to replace was an original part and it bears no manufacturer's name or number. This particular installation is somewhat difficult to access by any approach other than destructive.

I wonder if there is not some private rule in the plumbing industry to not identify the make and model on the device itself?
My experience is like yours to the extent that my only solution was to take the "guts" of the shower valve to a plumbing supply house for them to match.
I'm certain I pay more there than in one of the box stores...

Heading for Quartzsite in a week to join the Southwest Bluebirds and will continue the search there.

Regards,

Donn Borden

Montana

Best of luck with your volt meter and pliers...
Skip

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