Propane heater troubleshooting?

[bascom1968]

We have a 1977FC31 that we love. Just back from a trip from Tulsa area
to Padre Island and back without a hiccup. We did have an issue with
the heat though.

Can anyone help?

Our heater in the front area works great, the bedroom unit blows air
when you turn on the thermostat,but no heat, the kitchen unit does not
do anything. Where do you start troubleshooting? The tank has propane,
the range works fine as does the front heat. The bedroom unit is under
the bed and I am not sure where the kitchen unit is as there are
several registers but nothing happens with any of them.

[Curt Sprenger]

Rear Heater...got to be an on/off propane control near, probable on top
or beside the rear heater, that needs to be turned to ON.

Kitchen...is the kitchen/dinette thermostat set to heat/on...is there a
12v on/off switch located near the kitchen propane heater? Look for a
on/off propane control next to the kitchen propane heater. In our 1974
the kitchen propane heater was located at the floor below the cook
stove. The grill was held in place by magnets and needed a good nudge to
open it. The on/off propane valves, kitchen and forward area, were
located in that space.

Good luck.

Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.



bascom1968 wrote:

> We have a 1977FC31 that we love. Just back from a trip from Tulsa area
> to Padre Island and back without a hiccup. We did have an issue with
> the heat though.
>
> Can anyone help?
>
> Our heater in the front area works great, the bedroom unit blows air
> when you turn on the thermostat,but no heat, the kitchen unit does not
> do anything. Where do you start troubleshooting? The tank has propane,
> the range works fine as does the front heat. The bedroom unit is under
> the bed and I am not sure where the kitchen unit is as there are
> several registers but nothing happens with any of them.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Recreational vehicles
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Recr...vehic\
les&w2=Wanderlodge&w3=Automotive+maintenance&w4=Recreational+vehicle+dealer&w5=U\
sed+recreational+vehicles&w6=Automotive+radiators&c=6&s=163&.sig=DAUkCKkU7Dzhn_O\
bWmSYTw>
> Wanderlodge
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Wand...2=Wan\
derlodge&w3=Automotive+maintenance&w4=Recreational+vehicle+dealer&w5=Used+recrea\
tional+vehicles&w6=Automotive+radiators&c=6&s=163&.sig=Z-8HJdysB3QLPj9U0JvqYQ>
> Automotive maintenance
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Auto...;vehi\
cles&w2=Wanderlodge&w3=Automotive+maintenance&w4=Recreational+vehicle+dealer&w5=\
Used+recreational+vehicles&w6=Automotive+radiators&c=6&s=163&.sig=IF4u_5wI8Pmy34\
cC1O9CxA>
>
> Recreational vehicle dealer
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Recr...ional\
+vehicles&w2=Wanderlodge&w3=Automotive+maintenance&w4=Recreational+vehicle+deale\
r&w5=Used+recreational+vehicles&w6=Automotive+radiators&c=6&s=163&.sig=z6_XahaeY\
HfELr6o72IW1A>
> Used recreational vehicles
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Used...onal+\
vehicles&w2=Wanderlodge&w3=Automotive+maintenance&w4=Recreational+vehicle+dealer\
&w5=Used+recreational+vehicles&w6=Automotive+radiators&c=6&s=163&.sig=UGEY5km4L-\
kXbDI4ZSadEw>
> Automotive radiators
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Auto...ehicl\
es&w2=Wanderlodge&w3=Automotive+maintenance&w4=Recreational+vehicle+dealer&w5=Us\
ed+recreational+vehicles&w6=Automotive+radiators&c=6&s=163&.sig=ePNVMmISsCWgTnMq\
_4GlXA>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
> * Visit your group "WanderlodgeForum
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum>" on the web.
>
> * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> WanderlodgeForum-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>

>
> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Hi: Here is a place to start.

I just got back from the Tulsa area. Here is the sequence of operation for
the furnace.
--------------------------------------

The thermostat controls the operating circuit to the furnace by reacting to
room temperature.
When room temperature is below the thermostat set point, the contact closes
to allow current to flow to the relay.

The circuit breaker limits amperage draw of the motor.

The time delay relay (TDR) allows current to pass to the motor by closing a
switch within the TDR.

The TDR is normally an open relay. When activated it closes, sending power
to the blower motor.

When deactivated it allows blower to run for a period of time to cool the
combustion chamber.
A heater coil within the relay actuates a bimetal disc which closes the
relay circuit. This takes approximately 20-30 seconds. Current flows to the
motor to operate the blower. One end of the motor shaft is for the
circulating air wheel and the other side is for the combustion air wheel.
As the circulating air wheel comes up to speed, it blows air against the
sail switch and closes the contacts (at approximately 75% of the rated air
flow), completing the circuit. The sail switch is a safety device (air
prover) that insures adequate air flow before ignition. The limit switch is
a safety device that protects the furnace from overheating. The con-tacts
in the limit switch open at a given temperature setting, shutting off power
to the direct spark ignition (D.S.I.) system that controls the gas valve.

As power is applied to the D.S.I. board, the system does the following:

1. A timing circuit in the D.S.I. board allows the blower to purge the
chamber (approximately 20 seconds).

2. The board supplies current to the gas valve and causes it to open. A
manual electrical switch is provided on some models and must be in the ON
position for current
to reach the valve.

3. As the valve opens, the board sends a high-voltage spark to the
electrode at the
burner. The board detects the presence of a flame. If the flame is not
sensed after
approximately seven seconds, the board will lock out after three tries for
ignition.
Some older models have single try boards.

4. If the system does not ignite and the thermostat remains closed, the
blower will
remain on until the thermostat is reset manually. When the thermostat
senses the desired room air temperature, the contacts open, removing power
for the time delay relay and the D.S.I. board, shutting off the gas valve
and shortly thereafter the blower motor. The blower runs until the heater
in the time delay relay cools and opens the circuit, shutting off current
to the motor.
----------------------------------

Bedroom unit: be sure the thermostat is switched off. Open the grill and
remove the front cover of the heater, this will allow you to get to the
igniter unit which is under the small round window. Remove the 2 screws
holding the igniter unit in the chamber and carefully pull it out. Clean
the probes of all soot then be sure there is a 1/8th inch gap between the
probes. With a flashlight, check inside the chamber for dauber nests, then
re insert the igniter unit and re install the screws. Now switch on the
thermostat and look for LP ignition in the round window about 20 seconds
after the blower motor comes on. You should also hear a "click" just before
ignition, this is the LP valve opening. If flame then button the front of
the heater up and your done.

Kitchen: Try following the sequence of operation listed above to start your
trouble shooting.

Good luck,

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm



At 02:19 AM 1/19/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>We have a 1977FC31 that we love. Just back from a trip from Tulsa area
>to Padre Island and back without a hiccup. We did have an issue with
>the heat though.
>
>Can anyone help?
>
>Our heater in the front area works great, the bedroom unit blows air
>when you turn on the thermostat,but no heat, the kitchen unit does not
>do anything. Where do you start troubleshooting? The tank has propane,
>the range works fine as does the front heat. The bedroom unit is under
>the bed and I am not sure where the kitchen unit is as there are
>several registers but nothing happens with any of them.
>
>
>

[bascom1968]

Problem solved. Found an unlabled pull switch below the nightstand
that apparently allows the propane to flow and the furnace to work.
This is twice that I have found an unlabled switch (also hot water
heater) in an unlikely place (bedroom wall)that causes some appliance
to work. Next I will look for a switch in the kitchen area. Today we
winterized and put new foam in the driver's seat. Will post a
question on that in a minute.








--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bascom1968"
wrote:
>
> We have a 1977FC31 that we love. Just back from a trip from Tulsa
area
> to Padre Island and back without a hiccup. We did have an issue
with
> the heat though.
>
> Can anyone help?
>
> Our heater in the front area works great, the bedroom unit blows
air
> when you turn on the thermostat,but no heat, the kitchen unit does
not
> do anything. Where do you start troubleshooting? The tank has
propane,
> the range works fine as does the front heat. The bedroom unit is
under
> the bed and I am not sure where the kitchen unit is as there are
> several registers but nothing happens with any of them.
>

[nicodemus815@...]

>Problem solved. Found an unlabeled pull switch below the nightstand

Interesting...I can't get my front heater to ignite, and there is a dual
rocker switch near it, under the sofa, that has settings for On/Off and Hi/Low.
I'll have to play with it and see if the furnace ignites.

Steve Harrie
"86 PT38


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[mbulriss]

Steve,

Those rocker switches on your PT sound like the hydronic heating
system (or engine bypass heating) for when the Detroit is running.
You probably have a set of those switches under the dinette and in the
bedroom also since they are usually zoned into 3 heat exchangers. The
on/off is obvious; the hi/low is for the fan speed. Going from
memory, for this system to work properly, you need the water gate
valves coming off the engine opened, the "chassis heat" thermostat
turned on and set to a desired temp, the summer/winter switch on the
dash set to winter, and the "aux pump"(?) switch on the dash on. At
least that's the way I recall it is in my 83 PT40. Don't use that
system much in South Texas, but it is real effective when going down
the road.

Those two rocker switches should have nothing to do with the propane
heating system which is totally separate. For the propane system, you
need the propane tank valve open, the propane line valve near the
heater open, the gas master/sensor on (usually under the dinette), the
thermostat on the wall set to heat and a high enough temp selected to
turn on the heater. All of this is from memory, but seems correct at
the moment.

Good luck.

Mike Bulriss
1983 PT40 "Stagecoach" - For Sale
1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
San Antonio, TX



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, nicodemus815@c... wrote:
>
> >Problem solved. Found an unlabeled pull switch below the nightstand
>
> Interesting...I can't get my front heater to ignite, and there is a
dual
> rocker switch near it, under the sofa, that has settings for On/Off
and Hi/Low.
> I'll have to play with it and see if the furnace ignites.
>
> Steve Harrie
> "86 PT38
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[sfedeli3]

Steve,

On my PT, I found that my LP heater in the bedroom did not work.
You should test for 12V at the thermostat first (it should always be
on if your 12V master switch is on). If you have that, then make sure
that the thermostat is good. Mine was burned out from a design flaw in
the furnace. Turns out that the 12V goes to the propane valve AFTER
the blower fan via a microswitch. In the furnace, the 12V power wire
to the fan travels very close to the hot metal surface of the exhaust
vent. Mine had melted to the vent and was shorted. Once fixed, it
worked fine. IF your thermostat is burned out, that wire to the fan is
the FIRST thing I would check in the furnace. Why Suburban ran the
power wire this way, I'll never know.. It appears to be a source for
problems. Check for 12V at the thermostat first, then turn up the heat
and see of the thermostat is allowing 12V to go to the furnace.

Shane Fedeli
85PT40
Hershey, PA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, nicodemus815@c... wrote:
>
> >Problem solved. Found an unlabeled pull switch below the nightstand
>
> Interesting...I can't get my front heater to ignite, and there is a
dual
> rocker switch near it, under the sofa, that has settings for On/Off
and Hi/Low.
> I'll have to play with it and see if the furnace ignites.
>
> Steve Harrie
> "86 PT38
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[nicodemus815@...]

>Those rocker switches on your PT sound like the hydronic heating system

That makes sense, Thanks Mike.

>In the furnace, the 12 V power wire to the fan travels very close to the
hot metal

I'll check this out Shane, thanks for the heads up.

Steve Harrie
St. George


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]