awning install hints

[davidkerryedwards]

When I bought my Bird, it had no awning tube or spring. Side brackets
were there as well as the fabric in a storage bin. Just got the
tube/spring (22'+--interesting driving it home on the top of my car)
from ZipDee. Any hints on installation? There's still a tab of
fabric slide into the metal fabric cover which I have to remove.
It'll be unwieldy installing the tube so any hints will be appreciated.

Kerry
82 FC 35
Denver

[Jeff Miller]

I've tried it a couple of ways, here's what worked best (so far):

Remove the first slat of aluminum by removing the stop screw on one
end of the slat, leave the rest on the coach.

Install the fabric into the first slat, crimp both ends.

Next slide the slat into the rest of the slats on the coach with the
fabric hanging. This works best with two ladders and two or three
people. Go slowly, keep the fabric supported at the entry end to
avoid damaging the aluminum, it will kink. Once in place, install the
stop screws in the ends of the slats. Remember you can't stop half-
way, the aluminum will be damaged from the hanging fabric. You'll
have to slide it back out or finish installing before you stop. It
slides in quite easily if you have it properly lined up and supported.

Slide the assembled spring tube into the looped end of the fabric,
spring-end toward the rear I believe.

Now attach the non-spring end to the awning arm (front one I
believe), put the support arm out so that it holds the awning in
deployed position on the coach. Put the spring-end of the awning and
tube on the top of a stepladder approximately level with the non-
spring end. rivet the tube in place per Zip-Dee's instructions.

You will next be winding up the spring. It tensions clockwise, Zip-
Dee's instructions tell you how many turns based on the length of the
awning plus some turns. It usually is close. I use the cast end-
bracket with the first section of arm installed, be sure it can't
come apart, and that there is nothing that can be damaged if it gets
away from you (important things like body parts, many hands have been
broken by these things). Coach paint is important too here. Your
helper will need to stabilize the awning end on the stepladder during
this step.

Next slide the awning arm together on the coach, and attach the
support arm. Retract the awning after assembly, it should wind up on
its own but not too fast, remember that it will be heavier when it is
wet so make sure it has a little power to it. Add a couple of turns
if it needs more power, if it pulls too strongly then back a couple
of turns out.

Remember that this thing has lots of power, once things get spinning
or swinging with that spring don't try to catch it. If your hand
strength and endurance aren't very good, get someone to help, be sure
that this person is the careful type. Take it slowly, and be sure
that you don't go beyond your ability to hold the spring/arm, the
only way to rest once you've started is to install the arm or unwind
it, and unwinding is more treacherous than winding.

- Jeff Miller
in Holland, MI

Once the proper amount of turns are complete,


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "davidkerryedwards"
wrote:
>
> When I bought my Bird, it had no awning tube or spring. Side
brackets
> were there as well as the fabric in a storage bin. Just got the
> tube/spring (22'+--interesting driving it home on the top of my car)
> from ZipDee. Any hints on installation? There's still a tab of
> fabric slide into the metal fabric cover which I have to remove.
> It'll be unwieldy installing the tube so any hints will be
appreciated.
>
> Kerry
> 82 FC 35
> Denver
>

[davidkerryedwards]

Jeff:
Thanks for those detailed instructions. They are very helpful. One
question: I removed the remnants of the old awning today by prying
open the crimps (contrary to Zipdee's instructions which said a pliers
worked best, I could only do it with a screwdriver), and then pulling
it out one end. Could the possibility of kinking aluminum be avoided
by feeding the fabric bolt strip into the slot directly without
removing the slat?
I've messed enough with window blinds to imagine the excitement that
could occur if the winding process gets out of hand. Holy Cow! I
will proceed cautiously. Is the arm that you are referring to which
is attached during the winding process, the arm that is about 4 or 5
feet long?

Kerry

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Miller"
wrote:
>
> I've tried it a couple of ways, here's what worked best (so far):
>
> Remove the first slat of aluminum by removing the stop screw on one
> end of the slat, leave the rest on the coach.
>
> Install the fabric into the first slat, crimp both ends.
>
> Next slide the slat into the rest of the slats on the coach with the
> fabric hanging. This works best with two ladders and two or three
> people. Go slowly, keep the fabric supported at the entry end to
> avoid damaging the aluminum, it will kink. Once in place, install the
> stop screws in the ends of the slats. Remember you can't stop half-
> way, the aluminum will be damaged from the hanging fabric. You'll
> have to slide it back out or finish installing before you stop. It
> slides in quite easily if you have it properly lined up and supported.
>
> Slide the assembled spring tube into the looped end of the fabric,
> spring-end toward the rear I believe.
>
> Now attach the non-spring end to the awning arm (front one I
> believe), put the support arm out so that it holds the awning in
> deployed position on the coach. Put the spring-end of the awning and
> tube on the top of a stepladder approximately level with the non-
> spring end. rivet the tube in place per Zip-Dee's instructions.
>
> You will next be winding up the spring. It tensions clockwise, Zip-
> Dee's instructions tell you how many turns based on the length of the
> awning plus some turns. It usually is close. I use the cast end-
> bracket with the first section of arm installed, be sure it can't
> come apart, and that there is nothing that can be damaged if it gets
> away from you (important things like body parts, many hands have been
> broken by these things). Coach paint is important too here. Your
> helper will need to stabilize the awning end on the stepladder during
> this step.
>
> Next slide the awning arm together on the coach, and attach the
> support arm. Retract the awning after assembly, it should wind up on
> its own but not too fast, remember that it will be heavier when it is
> wet so make sure it has a little power to it. Add a couple of turns
> if it needs more power, if it pulls too strongly then back a couple
> of turns out.
>
> Remember that this thing has lots of power, once things get spinning
> or swinging with that spring don't try to catch it. If your hand
> strength and endurance aren't very good, get someone to help, be sure
> that this person is the careful type. Take it slowly, and be sure
> that you don't go beyond your ability to hold the spring/arm, the
> only way to rest once you've started is to install the arm or unwind
> it, and unwinding is more treacherous than winding.
>
> - Jeff Miller
> in Holland, MI
>
> Once the proper amount of turns are complete,
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "davidkerryedwards"
> wrote:
> >
> > When I bought my Bird, it had no awning tube or spring. Side
> brackets
> > were there as well as the fabric in a storage bin. Just got the
> > tube/spring (22'+--interesting driving it home on the top of my car)
> > from ZipDee. Any hints on installation? There's still a tab of
> > fabric slide into the metal fabric cover which I have to remove.
> > It'll be unwieldy installing the tube so any hints will be
> appreciated.
> >
> > Kerry
> > 82 FC 35
> > Denver
> >
>