Gutter rail sealant / adhesive?

[Jay Darst]

I am going to remove the aluminum gutter/railing near the top of the
side walls and have it repainted.

When its time to install the gutter, what sealant should I use?

What did Bluebird use?

Has anyone done this procedure?, If so, what did you use? Did it work
out OK?

Thanks
Jay Darst
85PT40
Springfield, IL

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Hi Jay:

I have re done the gutter rails on Coaches. Not an easy thing but not
overly hard either. You will need 2 ladders 12 feet or so high and a 2 X 12
about 12 feet long to make a scaffold with. Also a square plastic putty
trimmer tool and a wheel tool that is used to replace screen on windows.

I used the old RV standard grey putty tape for the sealant. Getting the old
sealant out is done with a utility knife and a 1/2 inch with putty scraper.
There are small pieces of rubber backing that goes over where the screw
holes are in the railing, be sure to save them when you clean out the old
sealant.

There is an indentation in the back of the rail for the putty tape then
follow up with a second layer on top of the first. Be sure to place the
first and second layers with about a 1/16th to 1/8 th over lap on the top
edge of the rail. You will trim this later with the square putty trim tool
so the putty is flat after you install the rail back on the Coach. Then you
use the screen roller tool to make the cove between the Coach wall and the
outer edge of the drip rail, to make the channel for the water to run off.
The most important tool is the square plastic putty trim tool, ( $1.68 at
Ace hardware) This tool will not only trim the excess but leave a clean
line of sealant just where it needs to be. One of the hardest parts is
removal and replacing the rail over the metal rub rails that is over the
windows. It is best to have 2 people for the removal and replacement as
that long piece of aluminium gets a little un wildly and it will come in
two sections and a piece along the full run. Also patience and about a 6
pac per section works well too. Don't forget the rubber pads for the
screw holes, this spacer becomes very important when you tighten the screws
back into place. They maintain the even gap between the rail and Coach
side. I made new ones from rubber gasket material from Napa. It took a 12
inch by 12 inch square, and I had some left over for other projects. The
scaffold makes the job go faster because you can walk the side of the Coach
while trimming and rolling the gutter drip area behind the rail.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma

At 12:08 PM 10/20/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>I am going to remove the aluminum gutter/railing near the top of the
>side walls and have it repainted.
>
>When its time to install the gutter, what sealant should I use?
>
>What did Bluebird use?
>
>Has anyone done this procedure?, If so, what did you use? Did it work
>out OK?
>
>Thanks
>Jay Darst
>85PT40
>Springfield, IL
>
>

[Jay Darst]

Ralph,

THANK YOU!

Very good information!

This will be a big help. Theres a bit more to it than I had planned,
but it shouldn't be a problem...

I don't know what the old RV standard grey putty tape is, I will
check with a RV supplier.

Outside of that, looks pretty straight forward.

Again, Thanks!

Jay Darst
85PT40
Springfield, IL
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Hi Jay:
>
> I have re done the gutter rails on Coaches. Not an easy thing but
not
> overly hard either. You will need 2 ladders 12 feet or so high and
a 2 X 12
> about 12 feet long to make a scaffold with. Also a square plastic
putty
> trimmer tool and a wheel tool that is used to replace screen on
windows.
>
> I used the old RV standard grey putty tape for the sealant.
Getting the old
> sealant out is done with a utility knife and a 1/2 inch with putty
scraper.
> There are small pieces of rubber backing that goes over where the
screw
> holes are in the railing, be sure to save them when you clean out
the old
> sealant.
>
> There is an indentation in the back of the rail for the putty tape
then
> follow up with a second layer on top of the first. Be sure to
place the
> first and second layers with about a 1/16th to 1/8 th over lap on
the top
> edge of the rail. You will trim this later with the square putty
trim tool
> so the putty is flat after you install the rail back on the Coach.
Then you
> use the screen roller tool to make the cove between the Coach wall
and the
> outer edge of the drip rail, to make the channel for the water to
run off.
> The most important tool is the square plastic putty trim tool, (
$1.68 at
> Ace hardware) This tool will not only trim the excess but leave a
clean
> line of sealant just where it needs to be. One of the hardest
parts is
> removal and replacing the rail over the metal rub rails that is
over the
> windows. It is best to have 2 people for the removal and
replacement as
> that long piece of aluminium gets a little un wildly and it will
come in
> two sections and a piece along the full run. Also patience and
about a 6
> pac per section works well too. Don't forget the rubber
pads for the
> screw holes, this spacer becomes very important when you tighten
the screws
> back into place. They maintain the even gap between the rail and
Coach
> side. I made new ones from rubber gasket material from Napa. It
took a 12
> inch by 12 inch square, and I had some left over for other
projects. The
> scaffold makes the job go faster because you can walk the side of
the Coach
> while trimming and rolling the gutter drip area behind the rail.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
>
> At 12:08 PM 10/20/2006 +0000, you wrote:
> >I am going to remove the aluminum gutter/railing near the top of
the
> >side walls and have it repainted.
> >
> >When its time to install the gutter, what sealant should I use?
> >
> >What did Bluebird use?
> >
> >Has anyone done this procedure?, If so, what did you use? Did it
work
> >out OK?
> >
> >Thanks
> >Jay Darst
> >85PT40
> >Springfield, IL
> >
> >
>