Electrical Gremlins
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12-27-2007, 17:55
Post: #21
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Electrical Gremlins
With the toad, If every thing fails at the same time, sounds like a
ground because ground is common to all the functions. when the problem resurfaces, I would use a battery jumper cable and hook one end on the toad -battery terminal and the other on the bus -battery. battery voltage is one thing but voltage at the bus plug and at the toad end of the umbilical cable may prove the weak link. you can also test resistance within the cord to see if it is passing all avalable current. the volvo tail lights are amber turn and if your toad is not, there must be a 'diode federal/european 4 to 3 wire converter' someplace. maybe that has isues. even if you are not using the converter it may be wired in and messing up the works. I had problems with tail lights(Using blinker and brakelight would turn all lights dim). turned out to be within the volvo light units. Jake and cruise?? would the jake not cancel out the cruise? maybe that default is where the problem is GregoryO'Connor 94ptRomolandCa --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson > 3. I also had troubles with the umbilical cable between the coach and > the toad. While the various lights are important, the greatest > concern is that the transmission lube pump for the toad receives its > power from the coach through the cable. I cleaned the contacts with > "tuner cleaner" and used some dielectric grease that improved (but > did not solve) the problem. It seemed to be particularly bad on cold > mornings with the lube-pump alarm cutting in and out frequently for > the first 5 to 10 miles. (Much cable jiggling and plugging/unplugging > would seem to help.) The wires to/from the connectors seem to be > tight and in good condition. > > I checked all the ground straps and ensured that they were all tight > (no loose connections were found). Battery voltage was indicated at > 12.85 to 12.9 -- normal for the AGM batteries in the coach. > > Any thoughts/comments would be appreciated. I plan to start checking > the voltages on the various connections -- and to look for loose or > corroded connectors. I also plan to disconnect the various ground > straps, clean the contacts, and reassemble them. > > Pete Masterson > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 > El Sobrante CA > aeonix1@... > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > |
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12-28-2007, 03:57
Post: #22
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Electrical Gremlins
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
> > > 3. I also had troubles with the umbilical cable between the coach and > the toad. While the various lights are important, the greatest > concern is that the transmission lube pump for the toad receives its > power from the coach through the cable. I cleaned the contacts with > "tuner cleaner" and used some dielectric grease that improved (but Pete, I was thinking about the cold weather issue and how it related to your electrical problem. when the toad oil is cold and just starting to be pulled, the amp draw of the pump is greatest. if the juice to run the pump comes from the bus, that wire ,the common wire and all connections needs to be able to push all those amps. Once you run a dc motor with insuffient amps you start to screw it up and it then requires more and more amps to run. Pushing too many amps across terminals that are not designed for the load will burn the teminals also. GregoryO'Connor 94ptRomolandCa > did not solve) the problem. It seemed to be particularly bad on cold > mornings with the lube-pump alarm cutting in and out frequently for > the first 5 to 10 miles. (Much cable jiggling and plugging/unplugging > would seem to help.) The wires to/from the connectors seem to be > tight and in good condition. > Pete Masterson > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 > El Sobrante CA > aeonix1@... > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > |
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12-28-2007, 05:47
Post: #23
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Electrical Gremlins
No... it was _headlights_ and cruise. On my '95, the jake (an exhaust-
type) is fully integrated with the automatic transmission and cruise control. When cruise is set, the jake will cycle on-off on down slopes to keep the speed in check. Only touching the brake turns off the cruise. Now, having written that, it makes me wonder if I'm getting some 'crosstalk' between the tail and _brake_ lights that might be killing the cruise control... I do have diodes in the toad brake lights. I would have been happier with retaining the "European" tail/turn separation, but the umbilical cords didn't have enough wires to allow that _and_ to provide power to the transmission lube pump (required for my toad). The only obvious symptom is the alarm for the lube pump that activates when power isn't getting through. If it were only the lights, I'd never know once we're on the road. I have two umbilical cords that I've checked and tested. The first time I encountered the problem, I actually had a loose wire in the umbilical cord plug -- but that's been fixed. Both cables test "clean" without undue resistance. Thanks. Pete Masterson '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 El Sobrante CA aeonix1@... On Dec 27, 2007, at 9:55 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote: > <snip> > > Jake and cruise?? would the jake not cancel out the cruise? maybe > that default is where the problem is > GregoryO'Connor > 94ptRomolandCa > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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