FC Batteries
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02-25-2010, 06:43
Post: #11
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FC Batteries
Michael, it sounds like you have had a lot of experience with these busses. I see in your signature that you even have an older blue bird that you've converted. I'm sure I speak for the group when I say that it would be interesting to see any pictures of your coach(es) including any possible photos of uprades you may have done. I use that "BlueBirdZoom" photo page for just that reason. Anytime I do something to my bus that I think others would be interested in, I just post another (high res) pic of it, and a simple caption description. Then I just include the link in my signature so that it's always available for anyone interested. Do you have any kind of link to a photo page like that?
<!--[if gte mso 9]> \/\/\â¦Fred __________________ Fred & Wendy Bellows Queen Creek, AZ (so.east Phx) '90 SP36 "Maunder Maximum" photos of coach and upgrades current location --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Michael" <mike.putz@...> wrote: > > Most people will use a battery isolator but you will loose an entire volt across them at higher amp loads (like alterator charging) and unless you use a remote voltage sense regulator then you'll constantly undercharge your batteries. > > A good test is this - After you've driven an entire day and have stopped for the night, turn on your generator and then activate your smart charger and watch the current. Typically you'll see it charge at over 50 amps, interesting because they should be fully charged after a long alternator charge like that. > > So I use a contactor (relay) to isolate my house batteries from the starting batteries. Mine is setup to close (charge) with engine running and isolate with engine off. I also installed a manual switch so I can "jump" my start batteries if needed. > > Michael > 63FC35 Bluebird Conversion > 78FC35 Wanderlodge > |
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