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cvaughn · (11-10-2013)

I repaired my exhaust system over the past several weeks. I will try to discuss only what was different from others who went before me.
I did have an exhaust leak. The leak made toast of the oem insulation over the valve covers. I changed to a direct contact product I got from Thermal Control Products, inc. near the Lowes Motor Speedway. http://www.thermalcontrolproducts.com. They use the product on fire walls of race cars adjacent to 1300 degree headers. I also got silicon tape to seal the joints etc. The tape is good to >= 500 degrees. I used an oem style muffler. My mileage seems off some however I haven't really given it a good test. The old muffler had failed internally and I could see thru it. Maybe a one inch hole. My pyrometer thermal couple broke upon removal. Finding one with 1/8" pipe threads was tough. Next time I would get the fabricator to install a 1/4" bung to the 180 turn pipe. The 1/4" thermal couplings are available every where.
The new thermal control product is a definite improvement. Heat transfer is less now than when I got the coach in 2004. Obviously the new pipes don't leak exhaust so the smell is gone.

davidbrady · (This post was last modified: 11-09-2013 22:35 by davidbrady.)

Charlie, thanks for the writeup.

Thermal Control has quite a few products listed on their website. Which one in particular did you use? I'm also very interested in the tape you used. I've tried several brands and have yet to find one that has the required durability. It seems the adhesive eventually fails and the tape peels away.

cvaughn · 11-10-2013, 11:52

(11-09-2013 22:34)davidbrady Wrote: Charlie, thanks for the writeup.

Thermal Control has quite a few products listed on their website. Which one in particular did you use? I'm also very interested in the tape you used. I've tried several brands and have yet to find one that has the required durability. It seems the adhesive eventually fails and the tape peels away.

I used a zero clearance product. It came in 42"x48" sheets. I will let you know about the tape. I have had the same problem with the alum duct tape
I used before.
Charlie

DOSZORROS · 11-11-2013, 18:22

Charley:

Could you discuss exactly where your exhaust system was leaking? Did you remove the muffler and stack? What is involved in removing the muffler and stack?

On our trip south the end of October, I could smell exhaust fumes in the bedroom after long hard pulls. A quick look did not find any obvious leaks. I am loath to remove the entire exhaust system to look for leaks without knowing what I am looking for.

cmillsap · (This post was last modified: 11-11-2013 20:28 by cmillsap.)

George,

The muffler is easier to remove from the top. You may have to cut the corrugated walkway a small amount to clear the preforated plate covering the exhaust stack. Easily done with a jig or Fien saw. It's difficult to access the top muffler hanger bolts to the chase wall otherwise. Also, the muffler is too long to be removed easily from below.

Chuck

cvaughn · 11-12-2013, 11:11

(11-11-2013 18:22)DOSZORROS Wrote: Charley:

Could you discuss exactly where your exhaust system was leaking? Did you remove the muffler and stack? What is involved in removing the muffler and stack?

On our trip south the end of October, I could smell exhaust fumes in the bedroom after long hard pulls. A quick look did not find any obvious leaks. I am loath to remove the entire exhaust system to look for leaks without knowing what I am looking for.

If you will look at the center photo on the thumbnails I attached earlier in this thread you will see the leak that was on top of the turbo u tube at the clamp which holds the tube in place. Other areas that fail are the welds BB used to hold the ball and socket assembly along the way up to the muffler.
If you are smelling exhaust, you have a leak.
Charlie