docking lights

[pbe43]

I have a 87 bluebird wanderlodge and need to replace the bulbs that
have burned out, does any know the bulb number or the maker of the bulb.
Greg

[Scott Forman]

Greg,

The number escapes me now, but if you go to the parts section on
vintagebirds.com, it has them there along with a place you can call
to order them.

The bigger problem in my experience was getting the light unit apart
to change the bulb. It's a big steel "eyeball" deal that has to be
pried apart, but even then the only way I could figure out how to get
the bulb out was to completely break it and pry out the pieces. Then
I had to mutilate the interior of the housing to get the new bulb in.

Maybe someone else knows a better way??? I think there must be a
trick to it I couldn't figure out. I had two burned out and the
first was such a pain I just left the other one.

Scott Forman
82 FC35RB
Memphis

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "pbe43" wrote:
>
> I have a 87 bluebird wanderlodge and need to replace the bulbs that
> have burned out, does any know the bulb number or the maker of the
bulb.
> Greg
>

[Jack Bentley]

I took my old bulbs to NAPA and they had replacements that worked fine.

Jack
Franklin, NC
'87 FC35 "Traveller"


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[pattypape]

NAPA has docking lights part # 4411.
It is a farm tractor headlight.

Use a putty knife or wide blade to cut and open the plactic housing.
There is a seam around the housing.
Do not use too much force for fear of cracking the plastic.

Bill 88 FC



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "pbe43" wrote:
>
> I have a 87 bluebird wanderlodge and need to replace the bulbs that
> have burned out, does any know the bulb number or the maker of the
bulb.
> Greg
>

[Scott Forman]

On my 82 FC, the housing is made of steel, and thick steel at that.
Maybe they changed for later models, but if yours is like mine, it's
just about indestructible. Benny at Blue Bird advised me to not be
afraid to man-handle the thing, so I had it in a vice and pried it
apart with a hammer & chisle. If yours is steel, don't be afraid to
use force, it is extra-strong just like everything else on a BB.

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "pattypape"
wrote:
>
>
> NAPA has docking lights part # 4411.
> It is a farm tractor headlight.
>
> Use a putty knife or wide blade to cut and open the plactic housing.
> There is a seam around the housing.
> Do not use too much force for fear of cracking the plastic.
>
> Bill 88 FC
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "pbe43" wrote:
> >
> > I have a 87 bluebird wanderlodge and need to replace the bulbs
that
> > have burned out, does any know the bulb number or the maker of
the
> bulb.
> > Greg
> >
>

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

The eyeball is actually aluminum. It builds up a coating of white
crystalline between the two halves that is hard to break lose. I use the
rubber handle of a hammer to tap all the way around to break the surface
tension but not the part, then soak it lime away for an hour or so then use
a penetrating oil and let it seep into the hair line separation before
using the putty knife then screwdriver on both sides at once to start it
apart. In the front half of the housing, there are two slots on each side
that will allow the old bulb to be turned and come out then re install the
same way, with the rubber gaskets, slide the halves back together then
using a rubber hammer to seat the halves tightly.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm

At 02:23 PM 12/21/2005 +0000, you wrote:

>NAPA has docking lights part # 4411.
>It is a farm tractor headlight.
>

[Scott Forman]

Ralph,

Can you elaborate on how the bulb comes out? I spent the better half
of a day trying to figure it out and couldn't...but then again, I am
not the handiest guy in the world, either. I still have one burned
out I'd like to replace.

Thanks

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> The eyeball is actually aluminum. It builds up a coating of white
> crystalline between the two halves that is hard to break lose. I
use the
> rubber handle of a hammer to tap all the way around to break the
surface
> tension but not the part, then soak it lime away for an hour or so
then use
> a penetrating oil and let it seep into the hair line separation
before
> using the putty knife then screwdriver on both sides at once to
start it
> apart. In the front half of the housing, there are two slots on
each side
> that will allow the old bulb to be turned and come out then re
install the
> same way, with the rubber gaskets, slide the halves back together
then
> using a rubber hammer to seat the halves tightly.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
>
> At 02:23 PM 12/21/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >NAPA has docking lights part # 4411.
> >It is a farm tractor headlight.
> >
>

[Jay Darst]

Scott,

I changed one of my landing lights also. Can be a bit of a job!

First remove the screws surrounding the fixture, the ones with heads
looking at you while standing beside your Bird. These are a phillips
screw threw the fixture and thenb the sheet metal.

Once you have the fixture loose, snip the wires and bring the
fixture inside on the work bench. You will be re connecting the
wires with a male/female fully insulated plugs. This way you'll be
able to remove the fixture in the future without shortening the
already too short wires.

On the bench with the fixture, you'll see 3 3/8" head self taping
screws holding a retainer that holds the eye ball in its place.
Remove the 3 screws and then push the Eyeball out of its fixture.

Now comes the hard part. You need to find the seam were the front
and back half of the eyeball meet and split it. this can be a chore
due to the massive amount of white corrosion which torments aluminum.

I ended up using a hacksaw to cut the joint a bit, maybe an inch
long gash. Did so on the bottom side so in the future the cut would
drain any moisture from the eyeball. Once the inch long cut is
opened, stick a screw driver/prybar in the gas and pry it apart.

once its apart, you'll be able to change the bulb. I actually broke
the bulb to remove it from the eye. That allowed me to remove the
rubber ring that actually holds the bulb in place and clean the
rubber ring plus treat it with silicone grease which will keep the
rubber ring pliable for years to come.

The correct bulb is

< http://www.topbulb.com/find/Product_Description.asp?
intProductID=42032 >

Its more money than the farm tractor bulbs, but ihas the correct
beam spread ofr the purpose and it is 100watt insted of the farm
tractor 50 watter.

More questions, call me 217-971-0036cell

Jay Darst
85PT40
Springfield, IL where we are preparing to head for S. Padre Island,
TX on Christmas day. My family in 85PT40 and brother Dan and wife
Barb in 86FC35RB... yea baby!!!

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Forman"
<sforman@r...> wrote:
>
> Ralph,
>
> Can you elaborate on how the bulb comes out? I spent the better
half
> of a day trying to figure it out and couldn't...but then again, I
am
> not the handiest guy in the world, either. I still have one
burned
> out I'd like to replace.
>
> Thanks
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> wrote:
> >
> > The eyeball is actually aluminum. It builds up a coating of
white
> > crystalline between the two halves that is hard to break lose. I
> use the
> > rubber handle of a hammer to tap all the way around to break the
> surface
> > tension but not the part, then soak it lime away for an hour or
so
> then use
> > a penetrating oil and let it seep into the hair line separation
> before
> > using the putty knife then screwdriver on both sides at once to
> start it
> > apart. In the front half of the housing, there are two slots on
> each side
> > that will allow the old bulb to be turned and come out then re
> install the
> > same way, with the rubber gaskets, slide the halves back
together
> then
> > using a rubber hammer to seat the halves tightly.
> >
> > Safe travels,
> >
> > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> >
> > At 02:23 PM 12/21/2005 +0000, you wrote:
> >
> > >NAPA has docking lights part # 4411.
> > >It is a farm tractor headlight.
> > >
> >
>

[Scott Forman]

Jay,

I was with you right up until the point where you removed the bulb.

I got my eyeball apart fine. But when looking at the bulb, I could
not figure out how it comes out. There was a metal lip surrounding
the back of the bulb that would not allow it to come out. Eventually
I had to break the bulb to get it out and then destroy that metal lip
piece by piece with a chisle to get the new bulb in there.

What am I missing here?

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst"
wrote:
>
> Scott,
>
> I changed one of my landing lights also. Can be a bit of a job!
>
> First remove the screws surrounding the fixture, the ones with
heads
> looking at you while standing beside your Bird. These are a
phillips
> screw threw the fixture and thenb the sheet metal.
>
> Once you have the fixture loose, snip the wires and bring the
> fixture inside on the work bench. You will be re connecting the
> wires with a male/female fully insulated plugs. This way you'll be
> able to remove the fixture in the future without shortening the
> already too short wires.
>
> On the bench with the fixture, you'll see 3 3/8" head self taping
> screws holding a retainer that holds the eye ball in its place.
> Remove the 3 screws and then push the Eyeball out of its fixture.
>
> Now comes the hard part. You need to find the seam were the front
> and back half of the eyeball meet and split it. this can be a chore
> due to the massive amount of white corrosion which torments
aluminum.
>
> I ended up using a hacksaw to cut the joint a bit, maybe an inch
> long gash. Did so on the bottom side so in the future the cut would
> drain any moisture from the eyeball. Once the inch long cut is
> opened, stick a screw driver/prybar in the gas and pry it apart.
>
> once its apart, you'll be able to change the bulb. I actually broke
> the bulb to remove it from the eye. That allowed me to remove the
> rubber ring that actually holds the bulb in place and clean the
> rubber ring plus treat it with silicone grease which will keep the
> rubber ring pliable for years to come.
>
> The correct bulb is
>
> < http://www.topbulb.com/find/Product_Description.asp?
> intProductID=42032 >
>
> Its more money than the farm tractor bulbs, but ihas the correct
> beam spread ofr the purpose and it is 100watt insted of the farm
> tractor 50 watter.
>
> More questions, call me 217-971-0036cell
>
> Jay Darst
> 85PT40
> Springfield, IL where we are preparing to head for S. Padre Island,
> TX on Christmas day. My family in 85PT40 and brother Dan and wife
> Barb in 86FC35RB... yea baby!!!
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Forman"
> <sforman@r...> wrote:
> >
> > Ralph,
> >
> > Can you elaborate on how the bulb comes out? I spent the better
> half
> > of a day trying to figure it out and couldn't...but then again, I
> am
> > not the handiest guy in the world, either. I still have one
> burned
> > out I'd like to replace.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > The eyeball is actually aluminum. It builds up a coating of
> white
> > > crystalline between the two halves that is hard to break lose.
I
> > use the
> > > rubber handle of a hammer to tap all the way around to break
the
> > surface
> > > tension but not the part, then soak it lime away for an hour or
> so
> > then use
> > > a penetrating oil and let it seep into the hair line separation
> > before
> > > using the putty knife then screwdriver on both sides at once to
> > start it
> > > apart. In the front half of the housing, there are two slots on
> > each side
> > > that will allow the old bulb to be turned and come out then re
> > install the
> > > same way, with the rubber gaskets, slide the halves back
> together
> > then
> > > using a rubber hammer to seat the halves tightly.
> > >
> > > Safe travels,
> > >
> > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> > >
> > > At 02:23 PM 12/21/2005 +0000, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >NAPA has docking lights part # 4411.
> > > >It is a farm tractor headlight.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

[pattypape]

Yep,good info.,

I think Jay is correct about the 50 watts vs 100 watts.
The tractor light is about $8.00.
The more you spend the more you get.
Position the bulb socket to get the correct light beam angle.
And rotate the bulb to align the grid lines horizontally
and vertically. This just makes it look better.

Bill 88 FC Michigan



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst"
wrote:
>
> Scott,
>
> I changed one of my landing lights also. Can be a bit of a job!
>
> First remove the screws surrounding the fixture, the ones with
heads
> looking at you while standing beside your Bird. These are a
phillips
> screw threw the fixture and thenb the sheet metal.
>
> Once you have the fixture loose, snip the wires and bring the
> fixture inside on the work bench. You will be re connecting the
> wires with a male/female fully insulated plugs. This way you'll be
> able to remove the fixture in the future without shortening the
> already too short wires.
>
> On the bench with the fixture, you'll see 3 3/8" head self taping
> screws holding a retainer that holds the eye ball in its place.
> Remove the 3 screws and then push the Eyeball out of its fixture.
>
> Now comes the hard part. You need to find the seam were the front
> and back half of the eyeball meet and split it. this can be a
chore
> due to the massive amount of white corrosion which torments
aluminum.
>
> I ended up using a hacksaw to cut the joint a bit, maybe an inch
> long gash. Did so on the bottom side so in the future the cut
would
> drain any moisture from the eyeball. Once the inch long cut is
> opened, stick a screw driver/prybar in the gas and pry it apart.
>
> once its apart, you'll be able to change the bulb. I actually
broke
> the bulb to remove it from the eye. That allowed me to remove the
> rubber ring that actually holds the bulb in place and clean the
> rubber ring plus treat it with silicone grease which will keep the
> rubber ring pliable for years to come.
>
> The correct bulb is
>
> < http://www.topbulb.com/find/Product_Description.asp?
> intProductID=42032 >
>
> Its more money than the farm tractor bulbs, but ihas the correct
> beam spread ofr the purpose and it is 100watt insted of the farm
> tractor 50 watter.
>
> More questions, call me 217-971-0036cell
>
> Jay Darst
> 85PT40
> Springfield, IL where we are preparing to head for S. Padre
Island,
> TX on Christmas day. My family in 85PT40 and brother Dan and wife
> Barb in 86FC35RB... yea baby!!!
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Forman"
> <sforman@r...> wrote:
> >
> > Ralph,
> >
> > Can you elaborate on how the bulb comes out? I spent the better
> half
> > of a day trying to figure it out and couldn't...but then again,
I
> am
> > not the handiest guy in the world, either. I still have one
> burned
> > out I'd like to replace.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > The eyeball is actually aluminum. It builds up a coating of
> white
> > > crystalline between the two halves that is hard to break lose.
I
> > use the
> > > rubber handle of a hammer to tap all the way around to break
the
> > surface
> > > tension but not the part, then soak it lime away for an hour
or
> so
> > then use
> > > a penetrating oil and let it seep into the hair line
separation
> > before
> > > using the putty knife then screwdriver on both sides at once
to
> > start it
> > > apart. In the front half of the housing, there are two slots
on
> > each side
> > > that will allow the old bulb to be turned and come out then re
> > install the
> > > same way, with the rubber gaskets, slide the halves back
> together
> > then
> > > using a rubber hammer to seat the halves tightly.
> > >
> > > Safe travels,
> > >
> > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> > >
> > > At 02:23 PM 12/21/2005 +0000, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >NAPA has docking lights part # 4411.
> > > >It is a farm tractor headlight.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>