belts and radiator

[erniecarpet@...]

Ken, on my FC, I had the 87 mod installed. There were lots of screws that
attach it to the front of the coach. I wonder if yours is similar? Ernie-83PT40
in Texas


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ken peckham]

my belts squeak and need to flush my radiator- I bought some "belt
dressing" but how do you get the louvered grill off? Are there any
tricks to changing/flushing theradiator fluid? thanks ken89fc cordele
ga

[Jeff Miller]

Trust me, if you're going to the work of opening an '89 FC radiator,
buy the belts first.

You remove the metal slats, then the fiberglass surround, many screws.
Get a piece of cardboard or styrofoam to poke the screws into so that
you can get them back into the same position when re-installing, likely
there are some oversized holes/screws and you'll want them in the same
position again (fiberglass stripped).

Next you will remove the aftercooler, tedious task to disconnect the
hoses, and finally swing the radiator.

Check the idler pullies for bearing loosness or binding, some failures
there.

If you are changing coolant, I suggest a new thermostat at this time.

To re-fill the system, fill then shut off the rear system, pointed
uphill as much as possible, get the engine full and pumping properly
before slowly opening the valves to the rear (BB suggested).

- Jeff Miller
http://www.wanderlodge.net
http://www.millercoachworks.com


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "ken peckham"
wrote:
> my belts squeak and need to flush my radiator- I bought some "belt
> dressing" but how do you get the louvered grill off? Are there any
> tricks to changing/flushing theradiator fluid? thanks ken89fc cordele
> ga

[pattypape]

-
Ken,

Follow Jeff's suggestions,

The later FC's have lots of screws and bolts and the Radiator only
opens to about 45 degrees, (tight opening). The after cooler can
stay hanging onto the radiator, use a 7/16 box ratchet wrench, it
helps in removing the after cooler hoses. Remove the driver side
amber light, to more easily reach the bigger bolts. Careful when
swinging open the rad, there is a temp sensor wire at the top, and
the bottom hose sometimes hangs up at the bottom of the radiator.
The top radiator hose may need to be removed from inside the
doghouse, so drain some coolant. Remove the fan shroud.
I did not take Jeff's advice and had to open the front end several
times this past year to replace belts, then hoses, thermostat, and
to have the radiator cleaned, flushed and pressure tested.
I would suggest that you do as must maintenance as you feel is
necessary, all at the same time.
I think this is more work than the older FC's, and there is not a
lot of room to work, after it is open. So if you are slim and
handsome like Jeff, it is easy. A lot more difficult for me

Bill 88 FC Michigan


-- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Miller"
wrote:
> Trust me, if you're going to the work of opening an '89 FC
radiator,
> buy the belts first.
>
> You remove the metal slats, then the fiberglass surround, many
screws.
> Get a piece of cardboard or styrofoam to poke the screws into so
that
> you can get them back into the same position when re-installing,
likely
> there are some oversized holes/screws and you'll want them in the
same
> position again (fiberglass stripped).
>
> Next you will remove the aftercooler, tedious task to disconnect
the
> hoses, and finally swing the radiator.
>
> Check the idler pullies for bearing loosness or binding, some
failures
> there.
>
> If you are changing coolant, I suggest a new thermostat at this
time.
>
> To re-fill the system, fill then shut off the rear system, pointed
> uphill as much as possible, get the engine full and pumping
properly
> before slowly opening the valves to the rear (BB suggested).
>
> - Jeff Miller
> http://www.wanderlodge.net
> http://www.millercoachworks.com
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "ken peckham"

> wrote:
> > my belts squeak and need to flush my radiator- I bought
some "belt
> > dressing" but how do you get the louvered grill off? Are there
any
> > tricks to changing/flushing theradiator fluid? thanks ken89fc
cordele
> > ga

[Jack & Donna Smith]

Good advise, except fpr buying the Belts first.. Personally, after
many trips to the parts store, I prefer to take the old part in, and
physically match the new one to the old one.. Not that I dont trust
the clerks, but............
Jack Smith
1973FC31
SoCal


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "pattypape"
wrote:
> -
> Ken,
>
> Follow Jeff's suggestions,
>
> The later FC's have lots of screws and bolts and the Radiator only
> opens to about 45 degrees, (tight opening). The after cooler can
> stay hanging onto the radiator, use a 7/16 box ratchet wrench, it
> helps in removing the after cooler hoses. Remove the driver side
> amber light, to more easily reach the bigger bolts. Careful when
> swinging open the rad, there is a temp sensor wire at the top, and
> the bottom hose sometimes hangs up at the bottom of the radiator.
> The top radiator hose may need to be removed from inside the
> doghouse, so drain some coolant. Remove the fan shroud.
> I did not take Jeff's advice and had to open the front end several
> times this past year to replace belts, then hoses, thermostat, and
> to have the radiator cleaned, flushed and pressure tested.
> I would suggest that you do as must maintenance as you feel is
> necessary, all at the same time.
> I think this is more work than the older FC's, and there is not a
> lot of room to work, after it is open. So if you are slim and
> handsome like Jeff, it is easy. A lot more difficult for me
>
> Bill 88 FC Michigan
>
>
> -- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Miller"
> wrote:
> > Trust me, if you're going to the work of opening an '89 FC
> radiator,
> > buy the belts first.
> >
> > You remove the metal slats, then the fiberglass surround, many
> screws.
> > Get a piece of cardboard or styrofoam to poke the screws into so
> that
> > you can get them back into the same position when re-installing,
> likely
> > there are some oversized holes/screws and you'll want them in the
> same
> > position again (fiberglass stripped).
> >
> > Next you will remove the aftercooler, tedious task to disconnect
> the
> > hoses, and finally swing the radiator.
> >
> > Check the idler pullies for bearing loosness or binding, some
> failures
> > there.
> >
> > If you are changing coolant, I suggest a new thermostat at this
> time.
> >
> > To re-fill the system, fill then shut off the rear system, pointed
> > uphill as much as possible, get the engine full and pumping
> properly
> > before slowly opening the valves to the rear (BB suggested).
> >
> > - Jeff Miller
> > http://www.wanderlodge.net
> > http://www.millercoachworks.com
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "ken peckham"
>
> > wrote:
> > > my belts squeak and need to flush my radiator- I bought
> some "belt
> > > dressing" but how do you get the louvered grill off? Are there
> any
> > > tricks to changing/flushing theradiator fluid? thanks ken89fc
> cordele
> > > ga

[ken peckham]

thanks for sharing your tips - ken89fc cordele ga