50a electrical plugs?

[Wilhelmus Schreurs]

Voltage depends on the load.
With no load the voltage should be about the same as the house.
Load it up to 45 amps or so, then take the reading, that is when it really counts.

Bill 84 FC 35 SB "$quanderlodge"
Terrace, B.C. Canada

----- Original
Message ----
From: Pete Masterson
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 7:24:47 PM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 50a electrical plugs?

The easy way is to check the voltage in the coach. I have two 30-amp cords (end to end) to reach my coach. The voltage in the coach is within 1 volt of the voltage in the house (probably within the tolerance of my relatively cheap multi-meter) .

You're probably just fine if you make the extension cord.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Apr 1

.

between 0000-00-00 and 9999-99-99

---

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[Gregory OConnor]

Its good to remember that if you are to hook an extention cord to a
pedistal or an outlet, the wire gauge to the outlet/pedistal from
the E meter should take into account the length of the extention
cord. I have a 50 amp pedistal that is 500 foot away from my main
panel and 150 from a sub. I droped in a 240/30 amp breaker (60 amp
total) to trip early and not overtax the long run.

GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
wrote:
>
> Hi Pete,
>
> > 50 Amp cable carries a _lot_ of electrical potential, so you do
need to be
> > very careful with your choices. Using romex (or romex-like
products) for an
> > extension cord may seem like a practical idea
>
> Oh no - I was NOT planning on using romex for an extension cord.
> Electrical codes exist for a reason and I follow them. My comment
on
> romex referred to moving the outlet. My 50 amp service is on the
side
> of my house. I need to move it about 20 feet further down the
house so
> my existing Wanderlodge cord will reach. I've been told I shouldn't
> make a 50 foot long, 50 amp cord, because of problems with voltage
> drop.
>
> I, however, don't see the difference between these two scenarios:
>
> 1. Run an additional 20 feet of romex, in the wall of my house, to
> move the outlet, then connect my 30 foot cord.
>
> 2. Leave the outlet where it is and just make a 50 foot cord.
>
> As far as electrical potential is concerned, if the wire gauge is
> equal, seems the same thing to me, and number 2 is certainly
easier.
>
> > The National Electrical Code requires buried
> > wires and/or use of conduit for an exposed location.
>
> Yep, and the 30 amp feed I installed for my greenhouse is THWN in
> buried conduit.
>
> > Finally, you might 'get away' with using BX (armored) flexible
conduit for
> > your "extension cord", although I'd be concerned that direct sun
exposure
> > would overheat the wires. Obviously, driving over it with your
coach is very
> > likely to destroy it.
>
> No - I plan to use the same type of material used for the factory
> extension cord. I'm doing this by the book. Also, I never drive
over
> my extension cords - I always move them out of the way before
moving
> the coach.
>
> > So, my question is, Is that really an output plug?
>
> It's possible. I don't have anything like that on my '86. Just the
> standard 50 amp input, and a pair of 30 amp inputs (one for each
leg),
> and the various cord sets. That output plug would be a real handy
> feature, though.
>
> > (Since we've only had one extended (a few hours) power outage
here in the
> > past 25 years, needing the backup power from the generator seems
fairly
> > remote. -- and I can 'tap into' the coach 120 vac system, should
the need
> > arise, with extension cords fed from normal outlets -- that
would be
> > sufficient to keep the home refrigerator and freezer 'going' to
prevent
> > spoiled food. I already have sufficient extension cords to
handle that
> > possibility.)
>
> Yeah - my area has very stable power as well. The longest power
> outages last just a few hours and come only every few years. The
last
> one was last winter, first power outage since I've had my coach. We
> just abandoned the house, fired up the generator and watched
movies in
> the coach until the power came back. If it would have been too
long,
> I'd have powered my deep freezer with an extension cord off the
coach
> until power returned, but I've lived here nearly 30 years and there
> hasn't once been a power outage long enough to spoil food.
>
> -Ryan
> '86 PT-40 8V92
>

[Gregory OConnor]

Just because you are using a 50 amp plug, you dont need to mount a
50 amp fuse.

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
wrote:
>
> Its good to remember that if you are to hook an extention cord to
a
> pedistal or an outlet, the wire gauge to the outlet/pedistal
from
> the E meter should take into account the length of the extention
> cord. I have a 50 amp pedistal that is 500 foot away from my
main
> panel and 150 from a sub. I droped in a 240/30 amp breaker (60 amp
> total) to trip early and not overtax the long run.
>
> GregoryO'Connor
> 94ptRomolandCa
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Pete,
> >
> > > 50 Amp cable carries a _lot_ of electrical potential, so you
do
> need to be
> > > very careful with your choices. Using romex (or romex-like
> products) for an
> > > extension cord may seem like a practical idea
> >
> > Oh no - I was NOT planning on using romex for an extension cord.
> > Electrical codes exist for a reason and I follow them. My
comment
> on
> > romex referred to moving the outlet. My 50 amp service is on the
> side
> > of my house. I need to move it about 20 feet further down the
> house so
> > my existing Wanderlodge cord will reach. I've been told I
shouldn't
> > make a 50 foot long, 50 amp cord, because of problems with
voltage
> > drop.
> >
> > I, however, don't see the difference between these two scenarios:
> >
> > 1. Run an additional 20 feet of romex, in the wall of my house,
to
> > move the outlet, then connect my 30 foot cord.
> >
> > 2. Leave the outlet where it is and just make a 50 foot cord.
> >
> > As far as electrical potential is concerned, if the wire gauge is
> > equal, seems the same thing to me, and number 2 is certainly
> easier.
> >
> > > The National Electrical Code requires buried
> > > wires and/or use of conduit for an exposed location.
> >
> > Yep, and the 30 amp feed I installed for my greenhouse is THWN in
> > buried conduit.
> >
> > > Finally, you might 'get away' with using BX (armored) flexible
> conduit for
> > > your "extension cord", although I'd be concerned that direct
sun
> exposure
> > > would overheat the wires. Obviously, driving over it with your
> coach is very
> > > likely to destroy it.
> >
> > No - I plan to use the same type of material used for the factory
> > extension cord. I'm doing this by the book. Also, I never drive
> over
> > my extension cords - I always move them out of the way before
> moving
> > the coach.
> >
> > > So, my question is, Is that really an output plug?
> >
> > It's possible. I don't have anything like that on my '86. Just
the
> > standard 50 amp input, and a pair of 30 amp inputs (one for each
> leg),
> > and the various cord sets. That output plug would be a real handy
> > feature, though.
> >
> > > (Since we've only had one extended (a few hours) power outage
> here in the
> > > past 25 years, needing the backup power from the generator
seems
> fairly
> > > remote. -- and I can 'tap into' the coach 120 vac system,
should
> the need
> > > arise, with extension cords fed from normal outlets -- that
> would be
> > > sufficient to keep the home refrigerator and freezer 'going'
to
> prevent
> > > spoiled food. I already have sufficient extension cords to
> handle that
> > > possibility.)
> >
> > Yeah - my area has very stable power as well. The longest power
> > outages last just a few hours and come only every few years. The
> last
> > one was last winter, first power outage since I've had my coach.
We
> > just abandoned the house, fired up the generator and watched
> movies in
> > the coach until the power came back. If it would have been too
> long,
> > I'd have powered my deep freezer with an extension cord off the
> coach
> > until power returned, but I've lived here nearly 30 years and
there
> > hasn't once been a power outage long enough to spoil food.
> >
> > -Ryan
> > '86 PT-40 8V92
> >
>

[msksann]

Ryan,
I had to replace a missing 50 amp cord, and I found the original
Hart-Arrow #7764 Hart-Lock connector, now Cooper Wiring Devices, 7764.
I ordered it online at:

http://www.electric-supplier.com/prod/co...324123.php
or
http://tinyurl.com/4g2g9h

It was drop shipped directly from Cooper, and arrived within 2 weeks.
Price is now $119.90 + shipping. Pricy, but it is the right one,
metal, heavy, well made, and it fits. Looks like it will last forever.

Michael Kramer
86 PT-40 8V92
San Diego, CA




--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
wrote:
>
> Speaking of electrical connections, I have a bit of a dilemma: My
> 50amp cord is not long enough to reach my service point. I have some
> questions:
>
> 1. Where can I buy a 50 amp coach-side plug that will fit in the
> outlet? I bought one that is "right" as far as the electrical contacts
> are concerned, but the plug body was too thick and hit the "ceiling"
> in the electrical hookup compartment. I don't want to steal the plug
> off my factory cord - would prefer to keep that in the coach for
> traveling and build a new cord I can leave at home.
>
> 2. Why doesn't anyone sell a 50 foot, 50 amp cord? I see lots of 50
> foot 30 amps but no 50ft/50a. Will I have a problem if I make one? I
> understand voltage drop but I currently have my factory cord plugged
> into a 25 foot, 50 amp extension cord, and it works fine. I have to
> hide the connection point between the two cords under the coach to
> keep it from getting wet if it rains, though, so the situation is not
> ideal.
>
> 3. Alternatively, I am considering putting a 50 amp input receptacle
> on the other side of the coach. I'd still want the factory receptacle
> live, though. Any advice on how I might accomplish the tie in & where
> to route wires? I'm betting I would need to install an auto-transfer
> switch to make this safe and/or to code, as I know I can't just tie
> two sets of wires to the same lugs. I'd have done this by now but I
> can't even find how to access the existing wires feeding the coach
> electrical panel. Where / how do they route to the connector?
>
> Lots of hard questions. Appreciate any advice.
>
> -Ryan
> '86 PT-40 8V92
>

[Ryan Wright]

Thanks everyone! Really appreciate the responses, your information has
made this project very easy now.

-Ryan