HWH hydraulic lines

[ebirder2000@...]

Most NAPA shops should be able to cut off the old connector and put on a new
end on the hose for you. The hard part will be removing and reinstalling the
hose from the coach.

Steve Anderson
79FC35
Poulsbo, Wa. (Heading south for the winter now in Lodi, Calif.)


In a message dated 10/26/2007 6:54:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
birdshill123@... writes:




It has been a while since I have done any hydraulic repairs. I have
removed the genset from our 88 FC and I discovered a leak at the HWH
jack. Finally narrowed it down to the hydraulic hose end. BB did not
support the line and the weight was too much for the end fitting. I
thought there would be a union or manifold nearby ( this is a rear
jack). No such luck. It looks like the line is one piece right to the
pump area. The line itself is in good shape. Rather than remove the
whole thing can't I just cut the line, get a new hose made up with the
fittings to connect to the jack and get a removable coupler to mate the
new line to the old? Seems to me these are available. Any ideas from a
hydraulic guru?

Bruce
1988FC35









************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[birdshill123]

It has been a while since I have done any hydraulic repairs. I have
removed the genset from our 88 FC and I discovered a leak at the HWH
jack. Finally narrowed it down to the hydraulic hose end. BB did not
support the line and the weight was too much for the end fitting. I
thought there would be a union or manifold nearby ( this is a rear
jack). No such luck. It looks like the line is one piece right to the
pump area. The line itself is in good shape. Rather than remove the
whole thing can't I just cut the line, get a new hose made up with the
fittings to connect to the jack and get a removable coupler to mate the
new line to the old? Seems to me these are available. Any ideas from a
hydraulic guru?

Bruce
1988FC35

[Curt Sprenger]

Bruce,

A lot of things can be done to repair hydraulic lines...cut, add, etc. Why
do you say the line weight is too much weight for the end fitting? Seems
strange that the line and fittings support the jack. I'd take a good look at
the fittings themselves. I had one rear jack on our 87 PT38 that had an oil
leak at the top/line fittings, and by tightening up the two coupler fittings
(that I suspect loosened up over many year) resolved the leak. Discuss your
situation with a good hydraulic repair shop if needed.

n 10/26/07, birdshill123 wrote:
>
> It has been a while since I have done any hydraulic repairs. I have
> removed the genset from our 88 FC and I discovered a leak at the HWH
> jack. Finally narrowed it down to the hydraulic hose end. BB did not
> support the line and the weight was too much for the end fitting. I
> thought there would be a union or manifold nearby ( this is a rear
> jack). No such luck. It looks like the line is one piece right to the
> pump area. The line itself is in good shape. Rather than remove the
> whole thing can't I just cut the line, get a new hose made up with the
> fittings to connect to the jack and get a removable coupler to mate the
> new line to the old? Seems to me these are available. Any ideas from a
> hydraulic guru?
>
> Bruce
> 1988FC35
>
>
>



--
Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, CA


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[birdshill123]

The line has to make a sharp right angle to the top of the jack. That
line is not supported by any clips. Thus the weight of the line is
applying pressure to the end fitting. That I can easily fix. I do not
wish to emove the old line as it is one piece to under the door area of
the MH. Would mean cutting a million wire ties. I think I found what I
need. They are no crimp ends. I can cut the line near the jack and
have a new short line made at a hydraulic shop. Then I will use a no
crimp fitting to join the new to the old.

Bruce
1988 FC35

[Gregory OConnor]

Many Hydraulic lines have one end fixed and one end with a spin fitting
(like the female end of a garden hose). You may want to mark the
orientation of the old line and maintain it with the repair as the
inner ply may come apart if the 20 year old line gets twisted out of
memory shape.

The line holds ram psi when the jacks are down and the bus is perched
atop. The hose is working while the pus is perched

when mounting a close attachment point, your design should realize the
up and down position of the ram fitting if it changes at all. It may be
that some length of free hose is requires to accommodate a change from
up and down.
I wonder how much of the failure is caused by lack of support and how
much is caused by degraded hose. I believe degraded hose is a cause
that your repair will not completely address. You may find that the
airquip type of no crimp may fail next if the hose is brittle. I gave
up using onsite repair of lines because the second failure is complete
and messy (however predictable).



GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "birdshill123"
wrote:
>
> The line has to make a sharp right angle to the top of the jack.
That
> line is not supported by any clips. Thus the weight of the line is
> applying pressure to the end fitting. That I can easily fix. I do not
> wish to emove the old line as it is one piece to under the door area
of
> the MH. Would mean cutting a million wire ties. I think I found what
I
> need. They are no crimp ends. I can cut the line near the jack and
> have a new short line made at a hydraulic shop. Then I will use a no
> crimp fitting to join the new to the old.
>
> Bruce
> 1988 FC35
>

[Richard Hayden]

Bruce,
I wouldn't hesitate to remove old plastic wire ties in order to fix a problem.
I find that they get very brittle when they are 20+ years old and break easily.

Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA

----- Original Message -----
From: birdshill123
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 6:02 AM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: HWH hydraulic lines


The line has to make a sharp right angle to the top of the jack. That
line is not supported by any clips. Thus the weight of the line is
applying pressure to the end fitting. That I can easily fix. I do not
wish to emove the old line as it is one piece to under the door area of
the MH. Would mean cutting a million wire ties. I think I found what I
need. They are no crimp ends. I can cut the line near the jack and
have a new short line made at a hydraulic shop. Then I will use a no
crimp fitting to join the new to the old.

Bruce
1988 FC35





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]