Battery "drain" issue ?? maybe?

[pgchd]

Hi Guys!
We have a 95 4203 and being newbies I am not sure whether or not we
have a battery "drain" issue. I had the 3 engine batteries load
tested, 1 was bad so I replaced it. I did not have the 6 "house" side
load tested because they appear to be all new. However when the coach
sits for a week, she fires right up, no problems but 1 of the
"inverters" seems to start at about 130 amps, then slowly goes down
to 10-15 in about 4-5 hours of the generator running to charge them
up. Then other inverter starts at 10 amps and usually stays there. The
master switch in the coach is alwys off and I have turned off every
"device" I can find. Any ideas ?? Also does anyone know how these 2
changers/inverters are "loaded" or how the aux battery switch on the
dash ought to work - it has 3 postions?? Thanks much!

Pete and Donna Chin
1995 4203 newbies

[George Lowry]

Hi Pete,

Answers are interspersed below:

pgchd wrote:

> Hi Guys!
> We have a 95 4203 and being newbies I am not sure whether or not we
> have a battery "drain" issue. I had the 3 engine batteries load
> tested, 1 was bad so I replaced it.

Make certain that you have at least 1000 amps CCA in group 31
batteries. Someone had changed mine to the interstate Group 24 with
only 400 CCA each. It is best if all batteries are the same age,
preferably from the same batch.

I did not have the 6 "house" side
> load tested because they appear to be all new. However when the coach
> sits for a week, she fires right up, no problems but 1 of the
> "inverters" seems to start at about 130 amps, then slowly goes down
> to 10-15 in about 4-5 hours of the generator running to charge them
> up. Then other inverter starts at 10 amps and usually stays there. The
> master switch in the coach is alwys off and I have turned off every
> "device" I can find.

Several thoughts: 1st; my coach is an all electric 4203 so there may
be some differences. If you are storing without power available,
there are two switches that I have been told must be turned off. One
is the A/T switch and the other is the electronics master in the
overhead compartment, center front. I have been told that the small
current flow for keep memory on the various electronics will deplete
the batteries. Personally, we keep ours plugged in when not in use.
Also we have an Amana refrigerator that draws a lot of power.

You may have a manual master switch. My coach did not come with one.
Supposedly, if you have such a switch, turning it to the off position
disconnects all the batteries... If so, and you are still getting
depletion of the batteries, check each cell of the house batteries. I
suggest a hydrometer (about $25 for a good one). A load tester can be
had from Harbor Freight for about $10 -20. I carry both. A dead or
shorted cell in any one of your house batteries can drain all the rest
in a short period of time. It can also overheat the battery and
possibly explode.




Any ideas ?? Also does anyone know how these 2
> changers/inverters are "loaded" or how the aux battery switch on the
> dash ought to work - it has 3 postions?? Thanks much!

On the inverters, one will assume the primary position, usually the
same one every time, and the other seems to just loaf during the
charging cycle. Sometimes, if you turn off the one with the larger
load, the other will take over.

As to the Aux. battery switch; this powers the relay to connect the
engine and house batteries together. I normally leave it in the center
(off) position unless needed. Mine seems to connect the batteries
automatically when the key is turned on. If I need to charge the
engine batteries, I will turn on the aux. battery or crossover switch
until the engine batteries are up. I seldom find a need for this. The
other position of the switch is a momentary on position meant to give
a boost when starting.

Hope this helps you out.

George Lowry
'95 WBDA 4203 & GM 4106 (for sale)
Spearfish, SD

>
> Pete and Donna Chin
> 1995 4203 newbies
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