Water drain system on 82 FC 35

[davidkerryedwards]

Having just repaired freeze breaks in my plumbing I'd like to get a
conceptual grasp of how the drain system works for the plumbing. I
know there's a manual drain under the vanity and an external faucet in
the propane compartment. I also see three cable operated valves near
the hw heater and tank in the back but I don't understand how they
work. How do the hot water heater and water tank drain and does
anyone have an easy way of retrofitting a system which gets antifreeze
into the system? Since there are no bypass fittings on the water
heater it seems virtually impossible to get antifreeze in the hot
water pipes.

Kerry

[pattypape]

Kerry,

On our 88 FC, there was no HWT bypass nor a HWT drain.
All water in the pipes are drained by the internal air pressure
system, the fresk tank drain and the outside faucet.

Not trusting this method, I drilled a hole in the floor to drain the
HWT thru the drain cockpet. I now use the BB air system to blow the
pipes out, then use a shop compressor to blow-blow-blow more water
out.
Then pump in the pink the stuff, thru the city water hookup into the
plumbing and fresh tank. Run the pump, look for pink stuff at each
faucet, toilet etc, Then, I blow it out again. I feel this is a bit
overkill, But inline with the entire Wanderlodge Overkill.
We get really hard freezes and the time spent is worthwhile.
No fresh water is added until we head South for Winter.
Frozen pipes are always a worry, but this has worked for us.

Bill 88 FC Michigan



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "davidkerryedwards"
wrote:
>
> Having just repaired freeze breaks in my plumbing I'd like to get a
> conceptual grasp of how the drain system works for the plumbing. I
> know there's a manual drain under the vanity and an external
faucet
in
> the propane compartment. I also see three cable operated valves
near
> the hw heater and tank in the back but I don't understand how they
> work. How do the hot water heater and water tank drain and does
> anyone have an easy way of retrofitting a system which gets
antifreeze
> into the system? Since there are no bypass fittings on the water
> heater it seems virtually impossible to get antifreeze in the hot
> water pipes.
>
> Kerry
>

[davidkerryedwards]

I like the idea of a drain on the hw heater. Where is the petcock for
that drain, I can't see one on mine.
I was thinking of some kind of overkill system like you use. How do
you pump in the antifreeze thru the city pressure hookup?

Kerry

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "pattypape"
wrote:
>
>
> Kerry,
>
> On our 88 FC, there was no HWT bypass nor a HWT drain.
> All water in the pipes are drained by the internal air pressure
> system, the fresk tank drain and the outside faucet.
>
> Not trusting this method, I drilled a hole in the floor to drain the
> HWT thru the drain cockpet. I now use the BB air system to blow the
> pipes out, then use a shop compressor to blow-blow-blow more water
> out.
> Then pump in the pink the stuff, thru the city water hookup into the
> plumbing and fresh tank. Run the pump, look for pink stuff at each
> faucet, toilet etc, Then, I blow it out again. I feel this is a bit
> overkill, But inline with the entire Wanderlodge Overkill.
> We get really hard freezes and the time spent is worthwhile.
> No fresh water is added until we head South for Winter.
> Frozen pipes are always a worry, but this has worked for us.
>
> Bill 88 FC Michigan
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "davidkerryedwards"
> wrote:
> >
> > Having just repaired freeze breaks in my plumbing I'd like to get a
> > conceptual grasp of how the drain system works for the plumbing. I
> > know there's a manual drain under the vanity and an external
> faucet
> in
> > the propane compartment. I also see three cable operated valves
> near
> > the hw heater and tank in the back but I don't understand how they
> > work. How do the hot water heater and water tank drain and does
> > anyone have an easy way of retrofitting a system which gets
> antifreeze
> > into the system? Since there are no bypass fittings on the water
> > heater it seems virtually impossible to get antifreeze in the hot
> > water pipes.
> >
> > Kerry
> >
>

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Bill and Kerry:

One word of caution on using the pink stuff. It is ok, of course, but I
would like to suggest a by pass kit put on the water heater after the air
blow out prior to putting in the antifreeze. If you have an Atwood 11 gal
water heater, the tank is aluminium and the "pink" stuff will etch and eat
away the aluminium tank.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm

At 02:25 PM 6/14/2006 +0000, you wrote:

>Kerry,
>
>On our 88 FC, there was no HWT bypass nor a HWT drain.
>All water in the pipes are drained by the internal air pressure
>system, the fresk tank drain and the outside faucet.
>
>Not trusting this method, I drilled a hole in the floor to drain the
>HWT thru the drain cockpet. I now use the BB air system to blow the
>pipes out, then use a shop compressor to blow-blow-blow more water
>out.
>Then pump in the pink the stuff, thru the city water hookup into the
>plumbing and fresh tank. Run the pump, look for pink stuff at each
>faucet, toilet etc, Then, I blow it out again. I feel this is a bit
>overkill, But inline with the entire Wanderlodge Overkill.
>We get really hard freezes and the time spent is worthwhile.
>No fresh water is added until we head South for Winter.
>Frozen pipes are always a worry, but this has worked for us.
>
>Bill 88 FC Michigan
>
>
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "davidkerryedwards"
> wrote:
> >
> > Having just repaired freeze breaks in my plumbing I'd like to get a
> > conceptual grasp of how the drain system works for the plumbing. I
> > know there's a manual drain under the vanity and an external
>faucet
>in
> > the propane compartment. I also see three cable operated valves
>near
> > the hw heater and tank in the back but I don't understand how they
> > work. How do the hot water heater and water tank drain and does
> > anyone have an easy way of retrofitting a system which gets
>antifreeze
> > into the system? Since there are no bypass fittings on the water
> > heater it seems virtually impossible to get antifreeze in the hot
> > water pipes.
> >
> > Kerry
> >
>

[pattypape]

Yes,
If you go thru the city water hook-up, I think everything is
protected. Rig an air compressor fitting to the city hook-up.
I do not exceed 40 psi, Then rig up a pump line into the same city
water hook-up, all fittings available at HomeDepot/ Hardware Store,
Etc. The drain was accessable for the HWT, your 82 may be
different.
Drilled a hole into the floor, I think it was plywood then a steel
sheeting, On our 88 Fc, if you keep drilling you are into the fuel
Tank, Go carefully and slow with the drill bits.

Bill 88 FC Michigan

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "davidkerryedwards"
wrote:
>
> I like the idea of a drain on the hw heater. Where is the petcock
for
> that drain, I can't see one on mine.
> I was thinking of some kind of overkill system like you use. How
do
> you pump in the antifreeze thru the city pressure hookup?
>
> Kerry
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "pattypape"
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Kerry,
> >
> > On our 88 FC, there was no HWT bypass nor a HWT drain.
> > All water in the pipes are drained by the internal air pressure
> > system, the fresk tank drain and the outside faucet.
> >
> > Not trusting this method, I drilled a hole in the floor to drain
the
> > HWT thru the drain cockpet. I now use the BB air system to blow
the
> > pipes out, then use a shop compressor to blow-blow-blow more
water
> > out.
> > Then pump in the pink the stuff, thru the city water hookup into
the
> > plumbing and fresh tank. Run the pump, look for pink stuff at
each
> > faucet, toilet etc, Then, I blow it out again. I feel this is a
bit
> > overkill, But inline with the entire Wanderlodge Overkill.
> > We get really hard freezes and the time spent is worthwhile.
> > No fresh water is added until we head South for Winter.
> > Frozen pipes are always a worry, but this has worked for us.
> >
> > Bill 88 FC Michigan
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "davidkerryedwards"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Having just repaired freeze breaks in my plumbing I'd like to
get a
> > > conceptual grasp of how the drain system works for the
plumbing. I
> > > know there's a manual drain under the vanity and an external
> > faucet
> > in
> > > the propane compartment. I also see three cable operated
valves
> > near
> > > the hw heater and tank in the back but I don't understand how
they
> > > work. How do the hot water heater and water tank drain and
does
> > > anyone have an easy way of retrofitting a system which gets
> > antifreeze
> > > into the system? Since there are no bypass fittings on the
water
> > > heater it seems virtually impossible to get antifreeze in the
hot
> > > water pipes.
> > >
> > > Kerry
> > >
> >
>

[pattypape]

Ralph,

Thanks for the warning, I need all the help that I can get.

The HWT is going on 18 years old and I hope the final drain and
compressed air purges out most of the Pink Stuff.
The square HWT is really tight with space & plumbing, This will be a
frustrating project, when adding the bypass and replacing the HWT.

Thanks Again,

Bill 88 FC

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Bill and Kerry:
>
> One word of caution on using the pink stuff. It is ok, of course,
but I
> would like to suggest a by pass kit put on the water heater after
the air
> blow out prior to putting in the antifreeze. If you have an Atwood
11 gal
> water heater, the tank is aluminium and the "pink" stuff will etch
and eat
> away the aluminium tank.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
>
> At 02:25 PM 6/14/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Kerry,
> >
> >On our 88 FC, there was no HWT bypass nor a HWT drain.
> >All water in the pipes are drained by the internal air pressure
> >system, the fresk tank drain and the outside faucet.
> >
> >Not trusting this method, I drilled a hole in the floor to drain
the
> >HWT thru the drain cockpet. I now use the BB air system to blow
the
> >pipes out, then use a shop compressor to blow-blow-blow more water
> >out.
> >Then pump in the pink the stuff, thru the city water hookup into
the
> >plumbing and fresh tank. Run the pump, look for pink stuff at
each
> >faucet, toilet etc, Then, I blow it out again. I feel this is a
bit
> >overkill, But inline with the entire Wanderlodge Overkill.
> >We get really hard freezes and the time spent is worthwhile.
> >No fresh water is added until we head South for Winter.
> >Frozen pipes are always a worry, but this has worked for us.
> >
> >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> >
> >
> >
> >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "davidkerryedwards"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Having just repaired freeze breaks in my plumbing I'd like to
get a
> > > conceptual grasp of how the drain system works for the
plumbing. I
> > > know there's a manual drain under the vanity and an external
> >faucet
> >in
> > > the propane compartment. I also see three cable operated
valves
> >near
> > > the hw heater and tank in the back but I don't understand how
they
> > > work. How do the hot water heater and water tank drain and
does
> > > anyone have an easy way of retrofitting a system which gets
> >antifreeze
> > > into the system? Since there are no bypass fittings on the
water
> > > heater it seems virtually impossible to get antifreeze in the
hot
> > > water pipes.
> > >
> > > Kerry
> > >
> >
>

[Tom Warner]

If you go thru the city water connection with antifreeze everything
is NOT protected unless you do the following and even then its going
to take a lot of antifreeze unless you bypass the hot water heater.

1. Activate the sporlan valve so the antifreeze will go into the
fresh water tank first, then after a few gallons the water pump can
pick it up and force it to the fixtures so when you turn on each
individual faucet, toilet fixture etc the line will be purged and
antifreeze will be added to that line. When you open a hot water
faucet the antifreeze will go into the hotwater tank first until it
is filled and then will go to each hot water line until antifreeze
comes out of that fixture when you open it. That is why you need a
bypass. If not you must pump approximately 12 gallons of antifreeze
into the system before you will get any distributed thru the hot
water pipes to the kitchen sink, bath sink and shower. Hmmmm.
2. Purge the water from the instant hot and then pump antifreeze into it.

3. Pour a cup or so of antifreeze into each water trap in the sinks,
and shower.

4. Purge the water in the ice maker if you have one and then pump
antifreeze into it.

Pray.

tom warner
Vernon Center,NY
1985 PT 40


At 02:55 PM 6/14/2006, you wrote:

>Yes,
>If you go thru the city water hook-up, I think everything is
>protected. Rig an air compressor fitting to the city hook-up.
>I do not exceed 40 psi, Then rig up a pump line into the same city
>water hook-up, all fittings available at HomeDepot/ Hardware Store,
>Etc. The drain was accessable for the HWT, your 82 may be
>different.
>Drilled a hole into the floor, I think it was plywood then a steel
>sheeting, On our 88 Fc, if you keep drilling you are into the fuel
>Tank, Go carefully and slow with the drill bits.
>
>Bill 88 FC Michigan
>
>--- In
>WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
>"davidkerryedwards"
> wrote:
> >
> > I like the idea of a drain on the hw heater. Where is the petcock
>for
> > that drain, I can't see one on mine.
> > I was thinking of some kind of overkill system like you use. How
>do
> > you pump in the antifreeze thru the city pressure hookup?
> >
> > Kerry
> >
> > --- In
> WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
> "pattypape"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Kerry,
> > >
> > > On our 88 FC, there was no HWT bypass nor a HWT drain.
> > > All water in the pipes are drained by the internal air pressure
> > > system, the fresk tank drain and the outside faucet.
> > >
> > > Not trusting this method, I drilled a hole in the floor to drain
>the
> > > HWT thru the drain cockpet. I now use the BB air system to blow
>the
> > > pipes out, then use a shop compressor to blow-blow-blow more
>water
> > > out.
> > > Then pump in the pink the stuff, thru the city water hookup into
>the
> > > plumbing and fresh tank. Run the pump, look for pink stuff at
>each
> > > faucet, toilet etc, Then, I blow it out again. I feel this is a
>bit
> > > overkill, But inline with the entire Wanderlodge Overkill.
> > > We get really hard freezes and the time spent is worthwhile.
> > > No fresh water is added until we head South for Winter.
> > > Frozen pipes are always a worry, but this has worked for us.
> > >
> > > Bill 88 FC Michigan
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In
> WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
> "davidkerryedwards"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Having just repaired freeze breaks in my plumbing I'd like to
>get a
> > > > conceptual grasp of how the drain system works for the
>plumbing. I
> > > > know there's a manual drain under the vanity and an external
> > > faucet
> > > in
> > > > the propane compartment. I also see three cable operated
>valves
> > > near
> > > > the hw heater and tank in the back but I don't understand how
>they
> > > > work. How do the hot water heater and water tank drain and
>does
> > > > anyone have an easy way of retrofitting a system which gets
> > > antifreeze
> > > > into the system? Since there are no bypass fittings on the
>water
> > > > heater it seems virtually impossible to get antifreeze in the
>hot
> > > > water pipes.
> > > >
> > > > Kerry
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>

[Stephen Birtles]

we winterize our coach with 3-4 gallons of antifreeze
there is a pickup installed on the supply side of fresh water pump
avaialble at camping supply store about 10 bucks
drain and blow out water system
inject antifreeze with fresh water pump going to each faucet and the
toilet individually and opening faucet or treadle till antifreeze appears
isolate ice maker and drain
you dont want antifreeze in ice maker
if the fresh water tank is drained I have not found it necessaary to
to put antifreeze in tank, Drain hot water tank and if you have a
bypass use it
We used to use the city water connection but it is easier to use to
antifreeze pickup on the pump
have not had any problems in 8 years with freeze problems in Niagara
Falls.
I certainly dont think you need 12 gallons of anti freeze
Also Use Prestone rv antifreeze if you can find it does not impart the
nasty aftertaste as the cheap pink stuff
Antifreeze is Freeze proctection not fluid replacement

Stephen

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Tom Warner wrote:
>
> If you go thru the city water connection with antifreeze everything
> is NOT protected unless you do the following and even then its going
> to take a lot of antifreeze unless you bypass the hot water heater.
>
> 1. Activate the sporlan valve so the antifreeze will go into the
> fresh water tank first, then after a few gallons the water pump can
> pick it up and force it to the fixtures so when you turn on each
> individual faucet, toilet fixture etc the line will be purged and
> antifreeze will be added to that line. When you open a hot water
> faucet the antifreeze will go into the hotwater tank first until it
> is filled and then will go to each hot water line until antifreeze
> comes out of that fixture when you open it. That is why you need a
> bypass. If not you must pump approximately 12 gallons of antifreeze
> into the system before you will get any distributed thru the hot
> water pipes to the kitchen sink, bath sink and shower. Hmmmm.
> 2. Purge the water from the instant hot and then pump antifreeze
into it.
>
> 3. Pour a cup or so of antifreeze into each water trap in the sinks,
> and shower.
>
> 4. Purge the water in the ice maker if you have one and then pump
> antifreeze into it.
>
> Pray.
>
> tom warner
> Vernon Center,NY
> 1985 PT 40
>
>
> At 02:55 PM 6/14/2006, you wrote:
>
> >Yes,
> >If you go thru the city water hook-up, I think everything is
> >protected. Rig an air compressor fitting to the city hook-up.
> >I do not exceed 40 psi, Then rig up a pump line into the same city
> >water hook-up, all fittings available at HomeDepot/ Hardware Store,
> >Etc. The drain was accessable for the HWT, your 82 may be
> >different.
> >Drilled a hole into the floor, I think it was plywood then a steel
> >sheeting, On our 88 Fc, if you keep drilling you are into the fuel
> >Tank, Go carefully and slow with the drill bits.
> >
> >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> >
> >--- In
>
>WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,

> >"davidkerryedwards"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I like the idea of a drain on the hw heater. Where is the petcock
> >for
> > > that drain, I can't see one on mine.
> > > I was thinking of some kind of overkill system like you use. How
> >do
> > > you pump in the antifreeze thru the city pressure hookup?
> > >
> > > Kerry
> > >
> > > --- In
> >
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,

> > "pattypape"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Kerry,
> > > >
> > > > On our 88 FC, there was no HWT bypass nor a HWT drain.
> > > > All water in the pipes are drained by the internal air pressure
> > > > system, the fresk tank drain and the outside faucet.
> > > >
> > > > Not trusting this method, I drilled a hole in the floor to drain
> >the
> > > > HWT thru the drain cockpet. I now use the BB air system to blow
> >the
> > > > pipes out, then use a shop compressor to blow-blow-blow more
> >water
> > > > out.
> > > > Then pump in the pink the stuff, thru the city water hookup into
> >the
> > > > plumbing and fresh tank. Run the pump, look for pink stuff at
> >each
> > > > faucet, toilet etc, Then, I blow it out again. I feel this is a
> >bit
> > > > overkill, But inline with the entire Wanderlodge Overkill.
> > > > We get really hard freezes and the time spent is worthwhile.
> > > > No fresh water is added until we head South for Winter.
> > > > Frozen pipes are always a worry, but this has worked for us.
> > > >
> > > > Bill 88 FC Michigan
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In
> >
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,

> > "davidkerryedwards"
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Having just repaired freeze breaks in my plumbing I'd like to
> >get a
> > > > > conceptual grasp of how the drain system works for the
> >plumbing. I
> > > > > know there's a manual drain under the vanity and an external
> > > > faucet
> > > > in
> > > > > the propane compartment. I also see three cable operated
> >valves
> > > > near
> > > > > the hw heater and tank in the back but I don't understand how
> >they
> > > > > work. How do the hot water heater and water tank drain and
> >does
> > > > > anyone have an easy way of retrofitting a system which gets
> > > > antifreeze
> > > > > into the system? Since there are no bypass fittings on the
> >water
> > > > > heater it seems virtually impossible to get antifreeze in the
> >hot
> > > > > water pipes.
> > > > >
> > > > > Kerry
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

[davidkerryedwards]

I planned to do just that but still thought the hot water lines would
not be protected because the pump would have to fill the hot water
heater with antifreeze before it pushed it out thru the hot water
faucets. How do you get the antifreeze thru the hot water lines?

Kerry

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
wrote:
>
> we winterize our coach with 3-4 gallons of antifreeze
> there is a pickup installed on the supply side of fresh water pump
> avaialble at camping supply store about 10 bucks
> drain and blow out water system
> inject antifreeze with fresh water pump going to each faucet and the
> toilet individually and opening faucet or treadle till antifreeze
appears
> isolate ice maker and drain
> you dont want antifreeze in ice maker
> if the fresh water tank is drained I have not found it necessaary to
> to put antifreeze in tank, Drain hot water tank and if you have a
> bypass use it
> We used to use the city water connection but it is easier to use to
> antifreeze pickup on the pump
> have not had any problems in 8 years with freeze problems in Niagara
> Falls.
> I certainly dont think you need 12 gallons of anti freeze
> Also Use Prestone rv antifreeze if you can find it does not impart the
> nasty aftertaste as the cheap pink stuff
> Antifreeze is Freeze proctection not fluid replacement
>
> Stephen
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Tom Warner wrote:
> >
> > If you go thru the city water connection with antifreeze everything
> > is NOT protected unless you do the following and even then its going
> > to take a lot of antifreeze unless you bypass the hot water heater.
> >
> > 1. Activate the sporlan valve so the antifreeze will go into the
> > fresh water tank first, then after a few gallons the water pump can
> > pick it up and force it to the fixtures so when you turn on each
> > individual faucet, toilet fixture etc the line will be purged and
> > antifreeze will be added to that line. When you open a hot water
> > faucet the antifreeze will go into the hotwater tank first until it
> > is filled and then will go to each hot water line until antifreeze
> > comes out of that fixture when you open it. That is why you need a
> > bypass. If not you must pump approximately 12 gallons of antifreeze
> > into the system before you will get any distributed thru the hot
> > water pipes to the kitchen sink, bath sink and shower. Hmmmm.
> > 2. Purge the water from the instant hot and then pump antifreeze
> into it.
> >
> > 3. Pour a cup or so of antifreeze into each water trap in the sinks,
> > and shower.
> >
> > 4. Purge the water in the ice maker if you have one and then pump
> > antifreeze into it.
> >
> > Pray.
> >
> > tom warner
> > Vernon Center,NY
> > 1985 PT 40
> >
> >
> > At 02:55 PM 6/14/2006, you wrote:
> >
> > >Yes,
> > >If you go thru the city water hook-up, I think everything is
> > >protected. Rig an air compressor fitting to the city hook-up.
> > >I do not exceed 40 psi, Then rig up a pump line into the same city
> > >water hook-up, all fittings available at HomeDepot/ Hardware Store,
> > >Etc. The drain was accessable for the HWT, your 82 may be
> > >different.
> > >Drilled a hole into the floor, I think it was plywood then a steel
> > >sheeting, On our 88 Fc, if you keep drilling you are into the fuel
> > >Tank, Go carefully and slow with the drill bits.
> > >
> > >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> > >
> > >--- In
> >
>
>WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
>
> > >"davidkerryedwards"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I like the idea of a drain on the hw heater. Where is the petcock
> > >for
> > > > that drain, I can't see one on mine.
> > > > I was thinking of some kind of overkill system like you use. How
> > >do
> > > > you pump in the antifreeze thru the city pressure hookup?
> > > >
> > > > Kerry
> > > >
> > > > --- In
> > >
>
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
>
> > > "pattypape"
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Kerry,
> > > > >
> > > > > On our 88 FC, there was no HWT bypass nor a HWT drain.
> > > > > All water in the pipes are drained by the internal air pressure
> > > > > system, the fresk tank drain and the outside faucet.
> > > > >
> > > > > Not trusting this method, I drilled a hole in the floor to drain
> > >the
> > > > > HWT thru the drain cockpet. I now use the BB air system to blow
> > >the
> > > > > pipes out, then use a shop compressor to blow-blow-blow more
> > >water
> > > > > out.
> > > > > Then pump in the pink the stuff, thru the city water hookup into
> > >the
> > > > > plumbing and fresh tank. Run the pump, look for pink stuff at
> > >each
> > > > > faucet, toilet etc, Then, I blow it out again. I feel this is a
> > >bit
> > > > > overkill, But inline with the entire Wanderlodge Overkill.
> > > > > We get really hard freezes and the time spent is worthwhile.
> > > > > No fresh water is added until we head South for Winter.
> > > > > Frozen pipes are always a worry, but this has worked for us.
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill 88 FC Michigan
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In
> > >
>
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
>
> > > "davidkerryedwards"
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Having just repaired freeze breaks in my plumbing I'd like to
> > >get a
> > > > > > conceptual grasp of how the drain system works for the
> > >plumbing. I
> > > > > > know there's a manual drain under the vanity and an external
> > > > > faucet
> > > > > in
> > > > > > the propane compartment. I also see three cable operated
> > >valves
> > > > > near
> > > > > > the hw heater and tank in the back but I don't understand how
> > >they
> > > > > > work. How do the hot water heater and water tank drain and
> > >does
> > > > > > anyone have an easy way of retrofitting a system which gets
> > > > > antifreeze
> > > > > > into the system? Since there are no bypass fittings on the
> > >water
> > > > > > heater it seems virtually impossible to get antifreeze in the
> > >hot
> > > > > > water pipes.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Kerry
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>

[Tom Warner]

Simply without a bypass for the hotwater heater there is no way you
can get antifreeze into the hot water lines without pressurizing
(filling it with pink stuff first) the hot water tank. Look at the BB
drawing for your fresh water system and you will see why. You have
been lucky so far. I have used the air system to blow out my FC35
every year but have always been nervous doing it. I want to make
absolutely sure that it is protected.
Tom Warner
Vernon Center,NY
1985 PT 40

2006, you wrote:

>we winterize our coach with 3-4 gallons of antifreeze
>there is a pickup installed on the supply side of fresh water pump
>avaialble at camping supply store about 10 bucks
>drain and blow out water system
>inject antifreeze with fresh water pump going to each faucet and the
>toilet individually and opening faucet or treadle till antifreeze appears
>isolate ice maker and drain
>you dont want antifreeze in ice maker
>if the fresh water tank is drained I have not found it necessaary to
>to put antifreeze in tank, Drain hot water tank and if you have a
>bypass use it
>We used to use the city water connection but it is easier to use to
>antifreeze pickup on the pump
>have not had any problems in 8 years with freeze problems in Niagara
>Falls.
>I certainly dont think you need 12 gallons of anti freeze
>Also Use Prestone rv antifreeze if you can find it does not impart the
>nasty aftertaste as the cheap pink stuff
>Antifreeze is Freeze proctection not fluid replacement
>
>Stephen
>
>--- In
>WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
>Tom Warner wrote:
> >
> > If you go thru the city water connection with antifreeze everything
> > is NOT protected unless you do the following and even then its going
> > to take a lot of antifreeze unless you bypass the hot water heater.
> >
> > 1. Activate the sporlan valve so the antifreeze will go into the
> > fresh water tank first, then after a few gallons the water pump can
> > pick it up and force it to the fixtures so when you turn on each
> > individual faucet, toilet fixture etc the line will be purged and
> > antifreeze will be added to that line. When you open a hot water
> > faucet the antifreeze will go into the hotwater tank first until it
> > is filled and then will go to each hot water line until antifreeze
> > comes out of that fixture when you open it. That is why you need a
> > bypass. If not you must pump approximately 12 gallons of antifreeze
> > into the system before you will get any distributed thru the hot
> > water pipes to the kitchen sink, bath sink and shower. Hmmmm.
> > 2. Purge the water from the instant hot and then pump antifreeze
>into it.
> >
> > 3. Pour a cup or so of antifreeze into each water trap in the sinks,
> > and shower.
> >
> > 4. Purge the water in the ice maker if you have one and then pump
> > antifreeze into it.
> >
> > Pray.
> >
> > tom warner
> > Vernon Center,NY
> > 1985 PT 40
> >
> >
> > At 02:55 PM 6/14/2006, you wrote:
> >
> > >Yes,
> > >If you go thru the city water hook-up, I think everything is
> > >protected. Rig an air compressor fitting to the city hook-up.
> > >I do not exceed 40 psi, Then rig up a pump line into the same city
> > >water hook-up, all fittings available at HomeDepot/ Hardware Store,
> > >Etc. The drain was accessable for the HWT, your 82 may be
> > >different.
> > >Drilled a hole into the floor, I think it was plywood then a steel
> > >sheeting, On our 88 Fc, if you keep drilling you are into the fuel
> > >Tank, Go carefully and slow with the drill bits.
> > >
> > >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> > >
> > >--- In
> >
> > > %40yahoogroups.com>WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
>
> > >"davidkerryedwards"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I like the idea of a drain on the hw heater. Where is the petcock
> > >for
> > > > that drain, I can't see one on mine.
> > > > I was thinking of some kind of overkill system like you use. How
> > >do
> > > > you pump in the antifreeze thru the city pressure hookup?
> > > >
> > > > Kerry
> > > >
> > > > --- In
> > >
> ps.com>WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
>
> > > "pattypape"
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Kerry,
> > > > >
> > > > > On our 88 FC, there was no HWT bypass nor a HWT drain.
> > > > > All water in the pipes are drained by the internal air pressure
> > > > > system, the fresk tank drain and the outside faucet.
> > > > >
> > > > > Not trusting this method, I drilled a hole in the floor to drain
> > >the
> > > > > HWT thru the drain cockpet. I now use the BB air system to blow
> > >the
> > > > > pipes out, then use a shop compressor to blow-blow-blow more
> > >water
> > > > > out.
> > > > > Then pump in the pink the stuff, thru the city water hookup into
> > >the
> > > > > plumbing and fresh tank. Run the pump, look for pink stuff at
> > >each
> > > > > faucet, toilet etc, Then, I blow it out again. I feel this is a
> > >bit
> > > > > overkill, But inline with the entire Wanderlodge Overkill.
> > > > > We get really hard freezes and the time spent is worthwhile.
> > > > > No fresh water is added until we head South for Winter.
> > > > > Frozen pipes are always a worry, but this has worked for us.
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill 88 FC Michigan
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In
> > >
> ps.com>WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
>
> > > "davidkerryedwards"
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Having just repaired freeze breaks in my plumbing I'd like to
> > >get a
> > > > > > conceptual grasp of how the drain system works for the
> > >plumbing. I
> > > > > > know there's a manual drain under the vanity and an external
> > > > > faucet
> > > > > in
> > > > > > the propane compartment. I also see three cable operated
> > >valves
> > > > > near
> > > > > > the hw heater and tank in the back but I don't understand how
> > >they
> > > > > > work. How do the hot water heater and water tank drain and
> > >does
> > > > > > anyone have an easy way of retrofitting a system which gets
> > > > > antifreeze
> > > > > > into the system? Since there are no bypass fittings on the
> > >water
> > > > > > heater it seems virtually impossible to get antifreeze in the
> > >hot
> > > > > > water pipes.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Kerry
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>