Over heating 6V92

[guysmalley]

I have just replaced the back small hose on my v8 92 fill the coolant then leave
th cap off .
then add more coolant repeat till it stays full. as far as 200 for short periods
should not be
a problem I read in the DD desiel manual that is normal for short periods

guysmalley

>
> Is there a trick to refilling the coolant so as not to have air
> pockets in the coolant?
>
> If you have, yourself, flushed your cooling system and refilled it, I
> would like to hear of the procedure.
>
> Thanks AGAIN!
>
> Jay Darst
> 85PT40 6V92 MTB654CR
> Springfield, IL
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "birdboat44"
> wrote:
> >
> > Jay, Jack Jones here, the only thing that would cause sudden over
> > heating would have to be one the thermostats or the fan did not come
> > on. My 8v92 while idling will not heat up enough to turn the fan on.
> > You can bet it will happen again.
> > Jack
> > 87 Pt 40 East Tn right next to Gatlinburg
> >
>

[Gregory OConnor]

Park Brake, not emergancy brake. If you need to use it as an emergancy
brake, walk back and pour your last cup.
The Park brake is not an air brake. PBrake is spring applied, and
usualy only on the drive axles. When you release the Pbrake air
pressure is used to push the spring back, and release the brake shoe.
Greg

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
wrote:
>
> Jay, maybe the bus was in drive with the e brake on??

[Robert Gradowski]

Hello Jay,
This is going to sound strange(maybe dangerous),but we were at RIV 6 or
7 yrs. ago and at that time the factory would send mechanics to your
bus and do two minor repairs for you at no cost,except for parts.(No
longer applies)
At the time we had an 83pt with a silver 6v.We weren't getting heat in
the front of the bus.The factory guys said it might be an air bubble in
the cooling system.To clear it they ran the engine to the governor high
point,kept it there for 5 or 6 seconds,did it 3 times,we got heat.
Don't know if this will solve your problem,but I know every little bit
helps.
Good Luck,
Bob Gradowski
Jefferson,NC
92 wb

[Mike Hohnstein]

Rest assured that IS the answer.
MH
----- Original Message -----
From: Pete Masterson
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Over heating 6V92


This afternoon's mail brought me the June copy of Bus Conversion
magazine ... and there was an article describing installing a water
spray system for the radiator to improve cooling of a 6V92.

The writer explained that "most of the charter bus operators" running
from LA to Las Vegas have installed water spray systems to keep the
engines cool while crossing the desert during the summer. The article
went on to describe how one could fashion a system using drip
irrigation 'sprinklers' and an electric pump controlled by a switch
by the driver.

Elsewhere in the magazine, I noticed an ad for B&B Coach Works in Las
Vegas that offers a number of items for motorhomes and bus
conversions including "radiator sppray systems".

Is this the answer to the heating problem (if the cooling system is
otherwise in good condition)?

> On Jul 1, 2006, at 12:40 PM, Jay Darst wrote:
>
> > Thanks Rob.
> >
> > I cleaned the radiator before leaving for NY. Really wasn't dirty on
> > my either.
> >
> > I have made sure that the coolant is as full as possible. Started
> > and ran engine. Coolant does not get up to operating temp, according
> > to the dash gage. The temp is around 160, which is where it stays
> +/-
> > 5 degrees.
> >
> > Went for a ride, temp never made it to 190 where it used to only
> > deviate 5 degrees.
> >
> > The coolong fan did kick on a few times, but according to the gage,
> > it should not have.
> >
> > Too hot, too cold, poor circulation. Pump? Thermostat?
> >
> > Jay Darst
> > 85PT40 6V92DD MTB654CR
> > Springhfield, IL
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Robinson"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Jay last week or so I took the louver cover off and cleaned the
> > radiator
> > > with Gunk and lots of water. Used garden hose vice pressure
> > washer. It
> > > wasn't that dirty but some folks told me that it doesn't take much
> > dust and
> > > grime to affect temps. I hope a good cleaning is all you need.
> > >
> > > On 01/07/06, Jay Darst wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Gang,
> > > >
> > > > My Bird just experienced an over heat situation.
> > > >
> > > > The temp gage read about 220 degrees, cooling fan on,
> > winter/summer
> > > > switch in the winter position, all this would not bring the temp
> > > > down.The antifreeze was full.
> > > >
> > > > Happened while Bird was idling. I assume the thermostats need
> > > > replaced. That will be by first repair,I suppose?
> > > >
> > > > In the last 3 weeks been on a 2,000 mile round trip and a 400
> > mile
> > > > round trip. No problems.
> > > >
> > > > Any suggestions or comments are appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > > Jay Darst
> > > > 85PT40 6V92 MTB654CR
> > > > Springfield, IL
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Rob, Sue & Merlin Robinson
> > > 94 WLWB
> > >

Pete Masterson
aeonix1@...
'95 Bluebird Wanderlodge WBDA 4203
El Sobrante, CA





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Gregory OConnor]

Jay, if you turn on winter to cool it down, would you not also have
to run the fans over the various heat registers to have any cooling
effect?? I wonder if winter restricts flow dynamically to the engine
R in an attempt to bring the heat up at Idle as in winter ambient
would be lower?? Maybe that restriction (i.e., valve) is stuck or
the water pump or belt is bad?? Is it possible to eliminate the
chassis loop prior to any diverter valves, Manually?

As the engine is heating up, a Raytec laser would help detect extreme
heat if one piston or bearing is causing more friction then the
other. Use the raytec to check temps of cooling water ( early after
startup as temps on the cockpit gauge start to climb)to see if the
flow in to the Big Radiator is as hot as the flow out of the Engine.
if the temp into the Radiator is cooler your problem is flow ,
chances are the pump or belt or restriction is your problem ( bad
flow can be push problem or restriction problem). When a pump goes it
usually leaks unless some one put in the majic radiator stop leak.
Early on, check the temps in the radiator core. It should all be as
hot or hotter than the exit water. This would reveal a plugged core
( definitly a plug if a upper section is cooler then a lower
section), or just bad push from the pump.

I like your water radiator cool tip. Wonder if there was a way to
use the gray water. Use of the other tank contents would give
literal meaning to a offensive phrase, but may prove help full when
followed too closly by other motorists.

Greg
94pt
waiting for catscan results today
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst"
wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> My Bird just experienced an over heat situation.
>
> The temp gage read about 220 degrees, cooling fan on, winter/summer
> switch in the winter position, all this would not bring the temp
> down.The antifreeze was full.
>
> Happened while Bird was idling. I assume the thermostats need
> replaced. That will be by first repair,I suppose?
>
> In the last 3 weeks been on a 2,000 mile round trip and a 400 mile
> round trip. No problems.
>
> Any suggestions or comments are appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Jay Darst
> 85PT40 6V92 MTB654CR
> Springfield, IL
>

[Pete Masterson]

On Jul 3, 2006, at 8:31 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:
> <snip>
> I like your water radiator cool tip. Wonder if there was a way to
> use the gray water. Use of the other tank contents would give
> literal meaning to a offensive phrase, but may prove help full when
> followed too closly by other motorists.
>
You would probably want to use fresh water only. Remember, the water
sprayed on the radiator (which is at 180+ degrees) will evaporate
leaving behind residue. Even using fresh water, you'll need to treat
the radiator with Lime Away, CLR, or white vinegar from time to time
to keep calcium build-up at a minimum (rinse thoroughly after
treatment as you don't want to corrode the radiator either).

The amount of water used shouldn't be that much of a problem since
this is supplemental cooling that should only be needed on long
upgrades in hot weather. If the cooling system isn't keeping the
engine in normal operating range at other times, then you may need to
trouble shoot the system to make sure that all components are working
as they are supposed to.

Pete Masterson
aeonix1@...
'95 Bluebird Wanderlodge WBDA 4203
El Sobrante, CA

[Jerry]

How do you calibrate the RAYTEC heat (IR) detector? How do you correct for
the emissitivity of the item being measured? These items on early such IR
detectors could result in gross errors if not properly done.



Jerry

MS Gulf Coast

Still Looking





_____

From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gregory OConnor
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 10:32 AM
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Over heating 6V92



Jay, if you turn on winter to cool it down, would you not also have
to run the fans over the various heat registers to have any cooling
effect?? I wonder if winter restricts flow dynamically to the engine
R in an attempt to bring the heat up at Idle as in winter ambient
would be lower?? Maybe that restriction (i.e., valve) is stuck or
the water pump or belt is bad?? Is it possible to eliminate the
chassis loop prior to any diverter valves, Manually?

As the engine is heating up, a Raytec laser would help detect extreme
heat if one piston or bearing is causing more friction then the
other. Use the raytec to check temps of cooling water ( early after
startup as temps on the cockpit gauge start to climb)to see if the
flow in to the Big Radiator is as hot as the flow out of the Engine.
if the temp into the Radiator is cooler your problem is flow ,
chances are the pump or belt or restriction is your problem ( bad
flow can be push problem or restriction problem). When a pump goes it
usually leaks unless some one put in the majic radiator stop leak.
Early on, check the temps in the radiator core. It should all be as
hot or hotter than the exit water. This would reveal a plugged core
( definitly a plug if a upper section is cooler then a lower
section), or just bad push from the pump.

I like your water radiator cool tip. Wonder if there was a way to
use the gray water. Use of the other tank contents would give
literal meaning to a offensive phrase, but may prove help full when
followed too closly by other motorists.

Greg
94pt
waiting for catscan results today
--- In WanderlodgeForum@
yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst"
wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> My Bird just experienced an over heat situation.
>
> The temp gage read about 220 degrees, cooling fan on, winter/summer
> switch in the winter position, all this would not bring the temp
> down.The antifreeze was full.
>
> Happened while Bird was idling. I assume the thermostats need
> replaced. That will be by first repair,I suppose?
>
> In the last 3 weeks been on a 2,000 mile round trip and a 400 mile
> round trip. No problems.
>
> Any suggestions or comments are appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Jay Darst
> 85PT40 6V92 MTB654CR
> Springfield, IL
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Gregory OConnor]

Jerry I tend to be a smartass in my posts but this is the honest
answer. Open mouth and take a reading if it is close to 98.6 there
you go. If you cant hold an oral thermometer the procedures would be
different.

To get a high reading, I guess you could bring water to a boil and
read it. The emissivity is relative if both surfaces are the same as
you are looking to compare temps and less concerned as to water temp
as the water temp is a result not the cause. Black hose prior to
radiator, blackhose after radiator, ; engine block at piston one ,
engine block at piston 5.

Things like wheel hubs should heat up the same if one is hotter there
is a friction problem. If a piston is hotter than another piston the
colder may not be firing or the warmer may have a bearing, ring
problem??? If you know the temp when things are running good, you
could compare them when there is an issue.

I guess in place of temperature you could call the reading a value.
You sound too much like Curt!!

Gregory O'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry" wrote:
>
> How do you calibrate the RAYTEC heat (IR) detector? How do you
correct for
> the emissitivity of the item being measured? These items on early
such IR
> detectors could result in gross errors if not properly done.
>
>
>
> Jerry
>
> MS Gulf Coast
>
> Still Looking
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gregory
OConnor
> Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 10:32 AM
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Over heating 6V92
>
>
>
> Jay, if you turn on winter to cool it down, would you not also have
> to run the fans over the various heat registers to have any cooling
> effect?? I wonder if winter restricts flow dynamically to the
engine
> R in an attempt to bring the heat up at Idle as in winter ambient
> would be lower?? Maybe that restriction (i.e., valve) is stuck or
> the water pump or belt is bad?? Is it possible to eliminate the
> chassis loop prior to any diverter valves, Manually?
>
> As the engine is heating up, a Raytec laser would help detect
extreme
> heat if one piston or bearing is causing more friction then the
> other. Use the raytec to check temps of cooling water ( early after
> startup as temps on the cockpit gauge start to climb)to see if the
> flow in to the Big Radiator is as hot as the flow out of the
Engine.
> if the temp into the Radiator is cooler your problem is flow ,
> chances are the pump or belt or restriction is your problem ( bad
> flow can be push problem or restriction problem). When a pump goes
it
> usually leaks unless some one put in the majic radiator stop leak.
> Early on, check the temps in the radiator core. It should all be as
> hot or hotter than the exit water. This would reveal a plugged core
> ( definitly a plug if a upper section is cooler then a lower
> section), or just bad push from the pump.
>
> I like your water radiator cool tip. Wonder if there was a way to
> use the gray water. Use of the other tank contents would give
> literal meaning to a offensive phrase, but may prove help full when
> followed too closly by other motorists.
>
> Greg
> 94pt
> waiting for catscan results today
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@
> yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst"
> wrote:
> >
> > Gang,
> >
> > My Bird just experienced an over heat situation.
> >
> > The temp gage read about 220 degrees, cooling fan on,
winter/summer
> > switch in the winter position, all this would not bring the temp
> > down.The antifreeze was full.
> >
> > Happened while Bird was idling. I assume the thermostats need
> > replaced. That will be by first repair,I suppose?
> >
> > In the last 3 weeks been on a 2,000 mile round trip and a 400
mile
> > round trip. No problems.
> >
> > Any suggestions or comments are appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Jay Darst
> > 85PT40 6V92 MTB654CR
> > Springfield, IL
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>