Overheating 3208 in a 90SP36

[williamcharrison]

Just came back from a long trip and noticed that at every extended
grade climb the temp gauge would start climbing toward 220.
It never reached 220 but the level increase alarms me. I have
cleaned the radiator and put new belts on all around. The oil temp
also climbs to about 230 (though I don't know what the danger level
is). The thermostat was replaced before my first trip this year
and I had no similar problems, but then the temperature was in the 70's
and on the last trip it was in the 90's.

Chuck Harrison
Akron, Ohio
90SP36

[Mike Hohnstein]

I would get a spray bar on that radiator. I have one on the toter and the FC
will have one before I head west next summer. I hook mine to the house water
and valve it with a sporlan or equivalent, click it on when the temps get up and
they do drop right down. I carry a infared heat gun to spot check the engine
gages. The configuration of the SP is not the best for air flow and water on
that radiator is the sure fix.
You don't want the coolant over 200 or the oil over 210, and that's only
acceptable for short periods.
MH
----- Original Message -----
From: williamcharrison
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 12:33 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Overheating 3208 in a 90SP36


Just came back from a long trip and noticed that at every extended
grade climb the temp gauge would start climbing toward 220.
It never reached 220 but the level increase alarms me. I have
cleaned the radiator and put new belts on all around. The oil temp
also climbs to about 230 (though I don't know what the danger level
is). The thermostat was replaced before my first trip this year
and I had no similar problems, but then the temperature was in the 70's
and on the last trip it was in the 90's.

Chuck Harrison
Akron, Ohio
90SP36





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Eric Johnson]

Hello Chuck,
My 3208 is in the front rather than the back but your experiences were much like
mine
while climbing mountain passes in Colorado. Not sure you can expect any lower
temperatures than what you're getting in hot summer weather. I found on my
coach that
it helps some to gear down as your speed drops off to keep RPM's up so the fan
cools
better and the engine load is reduced.
Regards, Eric
84FC35SBWL2

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "williamcharrison"

wrote:
>
> Just came back from a long trip and noticed that at every extended
> grade climb the temp gauge would start climbing toward 220.
> It never reached 220 but the level increase alarms me. I have
> cleaned the radiator and put new belts on all around. The oil temp
> also climbs to about 230 (though I don't know what the danger level
> is). The thermostat was replaced before my first trip this year
> and I had no similar problems, but then the temperature was in the 70's
> and on the last trip it was in the 90's.
>
> Chuck Harrison
> Akron, Ohio
> 90SP36
>

[Eric Johnson]

Hello Again Chuck,
Mike's idea about a spray bar will improve cooling capacity on a hot, dry, day,
but not sure
where he gets the max numbers on coolant and oil. Important to remember the
thermostat doesn't fully open until 185ºF. Radiator cap pressure rating of 7
psig, altitude
and coolant composition set how hot you can run the radiator before you boil
over.
Engine oil can safely operate at sustained temperatures of 220-240ºF and for
shorter
periods as high as 300ºF with no problems given normal oil changes.
Regards, Eric
84FC35SBWL2

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson" wrote:
>
> Hello Chuck,
> My 3208 is in the front rather than the back but your experiences were much
like mine
> while climbing mountain passes in Colorado. Not sure you can expect any lower
> temperatures than what you're getting in hot summer weather. I found on my
coach
that
> it helps some to gear down as your speed drops off to keep RPM's up so the fan
cools
> better and the engine load is reduced.
> Regards, Eric
> 84FC35SBWL2
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "williamcharrison"

> wrote:
> >
> > Just came back from a long trip and noticed that at every extended
> > grade climb the temp gauge would start climbing toward 220.
> > It never reached 220 but the level increase alarms me. I have
> > cleaned the radiator and put new belts on all around. The oil temp
> > also climbs to about 230 (though I don't know what the danger level
> > is). The thermostat was replaced before my first trip this year
> > and I had no similar problems, but then the temperature was in the 70's
> > and on the last trip it was in the 90's.
> >
> > Chuck Harrison
> > Akron, Ohio
> > 90SP36
> >
>

[Tom Seitz]

Chuck, Mikes tips on the sray bar sounds like the trick...

I have found that I have to keep the rad. clean....I mean CLEAN!!
The only way I can get it clean is open up the back and swing it out
and really do a good job of it. At least 2 or 3 time a year. On long
grades my temps will rise too. thats where Mikes Sray bar would kick
in. Tom 90 SP36 Alpharetta GA (for sale)


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "williamcharrison"
wrote:
>
> Just came back from a long trip and noticed that at every extended
> grade climb the temp gauge would start climbing toward 220.
> It never reached 220 but the level increase alarms me. I have
> cleaned the radiator and put new belts on all around. The oil temp
> also climbs to about 230 (though I don't know what the danger
level
> is). The thermostat was replaced before my first trip this year
> and I had no similar problems, but then the temperature was in the
70's
> and on the last trip it was in the 90's.
>
> Chuck Harrison
> Akron, Ohio
> 90SP36
>

[Rovers]

I like Mike's recommendation for a spray bar on these radiators. These
diesels need all of the capacity they can get. Especially on long
grades. Think I will add one to mine while everything is out of there
waiting for the new radiator core. Mike, are there any pictures have
of your setup? Thanks much.

Terry Neal
82PT40
74FC34
Bozeman, MT



Mike Hohnstein wrote:

> I would get a spray bar on that radiator. I have one on the toter and
> the FC will have one before I head west next summer. I hook mine to
> the house water and valve it with a sporlan or equivalent, click it on
> when the temps get up and they do drop right down. I carry a infared
> heat gun to spot check the engine gages. The configuration of the SP
> is not the best for air flow and water on that radiator is the sure fix.
> You don't want the coolant over 200 or the oil over 210, and that's
> only acceptable for short periods.
> MH
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: williamcharrison
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 12:33 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Overheating 3208 in a 90SP36
>
> Just came back from a long trip and noticed that at every extended
> grade climb the temp gauge would start climbing toward 220.
> It never reached 220 but the level increase alarms me. I have
> cleaned the radiator and put new belts on all around. The oil temp
> also climbs to about 230 (though I don't know what the danger level
> is). The thermostat was replaced before my first trip this year
> and I had no similar problems, but then the temperature was in the 70's
> and on the last trip it was in the 90's.
>
> Chuck Harrison
> Akron, Ohio
> 90SP36
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[davidkerryedwards]

It also partly depends on whether you're running synthetic oil or not.
Synthetics can handle higher temperatures. Mike's numbers seem very
low to me. Most aftermarket temperatures guages I've looked at don't
show 'hot' until 240 degrees. I know the idiot light on my 74 Olds is
hooked to a sensor that comes on at 258

Kerry

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson"
wrote:
>
> Hello Again Chuck,
> Mike's idea about a spray bar will improve cooling capacity on a
hot, dry, day, but not sure
> where he gets the max numbers on coolant and oil. Important to
remember the
> thermostat doesn't fully open until 185ºF. Radiator cap pressure
rating of 7 psig, altitude
> and coolant composition set how hot you can run the radiator before
you boil over.
> Engine oil can safely operate at sustained temperatures of 220-240ºF
and for shorter
> periods as high as 300ºF with no problems given normal oil changes.
> Regards, Eric
> 84FC35SBWL2
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson" wrote:
> >
> > Hello Chuck,
> > My 3208 is in the front rather than the back but your experiences
were much like mine
> > while climbing mountain passes in Colorado. Not sure you can
expect any lower
> > temperatures than what you're getting in hot summer weather. I
found on my coach
> that
> > it helps some to gear down as your speed drops off to keep RPM's
up so the fan cools
> > better and the engine load is reduced.
> > Regards, Eric
> > 84FC35SBWL2
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "williamcharrison"

> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Just came back from a long trip and noticed that at every extended
> > > grade climb the temp gauge would start climbing toward 220.
> > > It never reached 220 but the level increase alarms me. I have
> > > cleaned the radiator and put new belts on all around. The oil temp
> > > also climbs to about 230 (though I don't know what the danger level
> > > is). The thermostat was replaced before my first trip this year
> > > and I had no similar problems, but then the temperature was in
the 70's
> > > and on the last trip it was in the 90's.
> > >
> > > Chuck Harrison
> > > Akron, Ohio
> > > 90SP36
> > >
> >
>

[erniecarpet@...]

Hey Mike- on your way back west- stop by Livingston and help me with my Jake
brake.--I'll buy the drinks.

Ernie Ekberg
83 PT40
Livingston, Montana



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Mike Hohnstein]

Yo, Johnson, it's NOT an IDEA. It's on my vehicle and it actually works, per my
oil pan temp gage and my water temp gage. Nothing new about, just because it
seems to be unfamilar to you. Just returned from a 4000 mile trip to Idaho and
am going back next month so I get on down the road too. As far as temperature
limits, that's experience, I've got a lot of it and it's OK if you want to
ignore it my advice, it's your engine.
MH
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Johnson
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 3:40 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Overheating 3208 in a 90SP36


Hello Again Chuck,
Mike's idea about a spray bar will improve cooling capacity on a hot, dry,
day, but not sure
where he gets the max numbers on coolant and oil. Important to remember the
thermostat doesn't fully open until 185ºF. Radiator cap pressure rating of 7
psig, altitude
and coolant composition set how hot you can run the radiator before you boil
over.
Engine oil can safely operate at sustained temperatures of 220-240ºF and for
shorter
periods as high as 300ºF with no problems given normal oil changes.
Regards, Eric
84FC35SBWL2

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson" wrote:
>
> Hello Chuck,
> My 3208 is in the front rather than the back but your experiences were much
like mine
> while climbing mountain passes in Colorado. Not sure you can expect any
lower
> temperatures than what you're getting in hot summer weather. I found on my
coach
that
> it helps some to gear down as your speed drops off to keep RPM's up so the
fan cools
> better and the engine load is reduced.
> Regards, Eric
> 84FC35SBWL2
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "williamcharrison"

> wrote:
> >
> > Just came back from a long trip and noticed that at every extended
> > grade climb the temp gauge would start climbing toward 220.
> > It never reached 220 but the level increase alarms me. I have
> > cleaned the radiator and put new belts on all around. The oil temp
> > also climbs to about 230 (though I don't know what the danger level
> > is). The thermostat was replaced before my first trip this year
> > and I had no similar problems, but then the temperature was in the 70's
> > and on the last trip it was in the 90's.
> >
> > Chuck Harrison
> > Akron, Ohio
> > 90SP36
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Pete Masterson]

A month or two ago, Bus Conversions magazine had an article on the
topic with "how to" and a few photos. Basically, you need
a 12 v pump or a 12 v solenoid valve
plumbing to connect to the house system
BC suggested using drip irrigation sprinkler heads to distribute the
water over a wider area.

Basically, you either connect (where convenient) to the house
plumbing with a solenoid valve so you can switch on the spray system
when needed. The house pump would need to be in operation.

Otherwise, you can tap in with a dedicated pump (switched from the
drivers position) for the spray system.

On my 'bird, it looks like the easiest approach will be to tap in
near the dump valves (where the "outside shower" is) with a solenoid
valve. I haven't removed panels and studied line routing, but I'm
hoping that I can string some pex tubing... then connect to copper
when located near the radiator. (Wouldn't want it to melt, would we...)

If someone knows of a 'kit' and/or a reasonably priced solenoid
valve, I'd love to hear about it...

Pete Masterson
aeonix1@...
'95 Bluebird Wanderlodge WBDA 4203
El Sobrante, CA


On Aug 9, 2006, at 3:13 PM, Rovers wrote:

> I like Mike's recommendation for a spray bar on these radiators.
> These
> diesels need all of the capacity they can get. Especially on long
> grades. Think I will add one to mine while everything is out of there
> waiting for the new radiator core. Mike, are there any pictures have
> of your setup? Thanks much.
>
> Terry Neal
> 82PT40
> 74FC34
> Bozeman, MT
>
>
>
> Mike Hohnstein wrote:
>
>> I would get a spray bar on that radiator. I have one on the toter and
>> the FC will have one before I head west next summer. I hook mine to
>> the house water and valve it with a sporlan or equivalent, click
>> it on
>> when the temps get up and they do drop right down. I carry a infared
>> heat gun to spot check the engine gages. The configuration of the SP
>> is not the best for air flow and water on that radiator is the
>> sure fix.
>> You don't want the coolant over 200 or the oil over 210, and that's
>> only acceptable for short periods.
>> MH
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: williamcharrison
>> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
>>
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 12:33 PM
>> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Overheating 3208 in a 90SP36
>>
>> Just came back from a long trip and noticed that at every extended
>> grade climb the temp gauge would start climbing toward 220.
>> It never reached 220 but the level increase alarms me. I have
>> cleaned the radiator and put new belts on all around. The oil temp
>> also climbs to about 230 (though I don't know what the danger level
>> is). The thermostat was replaced before my first trip this year
>> and I had no similar problems, but then the temperature was in the
>> 70's
>> and on the last trip it was in the 90's.
>>
>> Chuck Harrison
>> Akron, Ohio
>> 90SP36








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]