LXi Owners, steering, ball joints

[David Brady]

Fellow LXi Owners,

I discovered something on my bus that I'd like you to
be aware of. When I dump the suspension, there's a
portion of the frame that comes into contact with the
steering tie rod, deflecting the tie rod by about a quarter
inch.

The frame component at the front of the bus is the
diagonal bracing that's close to the centerline of the
bus, starts high up at the base of the c-channel frame
rails and diagonally slopes down to a mounting point
at the bottom of the basement. I'm fairly certain that this
diagonal bracing is peculiar only to the LXi. This bracing
attaches to a heavy steel bulkhead at the front end of
the basement ultimately attaching to a framework of
2 x 6 box section frame rails that run under the basement
and the length of the basement.

As I dump the suspension the weight of the front of the
coach just starts to hit the bump stops in the front air bags,
but then the diagonals conflict with the tie rod cross bar
deflecting it about a quarter inch.

The ultimate problem here is that if your driving and you
experience a loss of air pressure in a front air bag, the front
will dump and the frame component conflicting with the steering
tie rod may make steering difficult. Of course, the idea of having
upwards of 14,000lbs bearing down on tie rod end ball joints
doesn't sit very well with me either.

I called Ridewell and Dana Corporation and found a solution for
my front axle. The solution is to use a drop socket tie rod end ball
joint to drop the tie rod cross bar an inch. This provides the room
for the suspension to lower and sit firmly on the air bag bump
stops and it allows the coach to be steered in the event of air loss
at the front air bags.

My front axle is Dana part number: I160WIDE TR and 161BN208-1
My original tie rod ball joints are: 220TR115 (left) and 220TR116 (right)

The new drop socket tie rod ball joints require a new tie rod cross bar.
The new cross bar is part number: 161TR117-1
And the drop socket ball joints are: 161TR115 (left) and 161TR116 (right)

Check your LXi to make sure that your frame is not resting on your
tie rod cross bar.

David Brady
'02 LXi, Smokey
NC

[mbulriss]

David,

That's a serious enough note that I am going to add that as a file for
future reference by other LXi Owners if you don't mind. Is it
probable that it affects LX models also?

Mike Bulriss
1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
San Antonio, TX


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, David Brady wrote:
>
> Fellow LXi Owners,
>
> I discovered something on my bus that I'd like you to
> be aware of. When I dump the suspension, there's a
> portion of the frame that comes into contact with the
> steering tie rod, deflecting the tie rod by about a quarter
> inch.
>
> The frame component at the front of the bus is the
> diagonal bracing that's close to the centerline of the
> bus, starts high up at the base of the c-channel frame
> rails and diagonally slopes down to a mounting point
> at the bottom of the basement. I'm fairly certain that this
> diagonal bracing is peculiar only to the LXi. This bracing
> attaches to a heavy steel bulkhead at the front end of
> the basement ultimately attaching to a framework of
> 2 x 6 box section frame rails that run under the basement
> and the length of the basement.
>
> As I dump the suspension the weight of the front of the
> coach just starts to hit the bump stops in the front air bags,
> but then the diagonals conflict with the tie rod cross bar
> deflecting it about a quarter inch.
>
> The ultimate problem here is that if your driving and you
> experience a loss of air pressure in a front air bag, the front
> will dump and the frame component conflicting with the steering
> tie rod may make steering difficult. Of course, the idea of having
> upwards of 14,000lbs bearing down on tie rod end ball joints
> doesn't sit very well with me either.
>
> I called Ridewell and Dana Corporation and found a solution for
> my front axle. The solution is to use a drop socket tie rod end ball
> joint to drop the tie rod cross bar an inch. This provides the room
> for the suspension to lower and sit firmly on the air bag bump
> stops and it allows the coach to be steered in the event of air loss
> at the front air bags.
>
> My front axle is Dana part number: I160WIDE TR and 161BN208-1
> My original tie rod ball joints are: 220TR115 (left) and 220TR116
(right)
>
> The new drop socket tie rod ball joints require a new tie rod cross bar.
> The new cross bar is part number: 161TR117-1
> And the drop socket ball joints are: 161TR115 (left) and 161TR116
(right)
>
> Check your LXi to make sure that your frame is not resting on your
> tie rod cross bar.
>
> David Brady
> '02 LXi, Smokey
> NC
>

[David Brady]

Feel free Mike. I don't know if the LX is also affected, but
there's a strong possibility.

David
'02 LXi, Smokey
NC

mbulriss wrote:
>
> David,
>
> That's a serious enough note that I am going to add that as a file for
> future reference by other LXi Owners if you don't mind. Is it
> probable that it affects LX models also?
>
> Mike Bulriss
> 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
> San Antonio, TX
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> , David Brady
> wrote:
> >
> > Fellow LXi Owners,
> >
> > I discovered something on my bus that I'd like you to
> > be aware of. When I dump the suspension, there's a
> > portion of the frame that comes into contact with the
> > steering tie rod, deflecting the tie rod by about a quarter
> > inch.
> >
> > The frame component at the front of the bus is the
> > diagonal bracing that's close to the centerline of the
> > bus, starts high up at the base of the c-channel frame
> > rails and diagonally slopes down to a mounting point
> > at the bottom of the basement. I'm fairly certain that this
> > diagonal bracing is peculiar only to the LXi. This bracing
> > attaches to a heavy steel bulkhead at the front end of
> > the basement ultimately attaching to a framework of
> > 2 x 6 box section frame rails that run under the basement
> > and the length of the basement.
> >
> > As I dump the suspension the weight of the front of the
> > coach just starts to hit the bump stops in the front air bags,
> > but then the diagonals conflict with the tie rod cross bar
> > deflecting it about a quarter inch.
> >
> > The ultimate problem here is that if your driving and you
> > experience a loss of air pressure in a front air bag, the front
> > will dump and the frame component conflicting with the steering
> > tie rod may make steering difficult. Of course, the idea of having
> > upwards of 14,000lbs bearing down on tie rod end ball joints
> > doesn't sit very well with me either.
> >
> > I called Ridewell and Dana Corporation and found a solution for
> > my front axle. The solution is to use a drop socket tie rod end ball
> > joint to drop the tie rod cross bar an inch. This provides the room
> > for the suspension to lower and sit firmly on the air bag bump
> > stops and it allows the coach to be steered in the event of air loss
> > at the front air bags.
> >
> > My front axle is Dana part number: I160WIDE TR and 161BN208-1
> > My original tie rod ball joints are: 220TR115 (left) and 220TR116
> (right)
> >
> > The new drop socket tie rod ball joints require a new tie rod cross bar.
> > The new cross bar is part number: 161TR117-1
> > And the drop socket ball joints are: 161TR115 (left) and 161TR116
> (right)
> >
> > Check your LXi to make sure that your frame is not resting on your
> > tie rod cross bar.
> >
> > David Brady
> > '02 LXi, Smokey
> > NC
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.0/853 - Release Date: 6/18/2007 3:02
PM
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[brad barton]

Dave,
Thanks for the info. I will make the mechanic aware of that when I get back.
If your LXi is a slide, did you have any trouble with the moveable kitchen
baseboard binding up when the slide was being retracted? It is tacked to a
small cleat that slides up when the slide comes in. The baseboard popped off
that cleat but didn't break. The only safe way to retract is for me to hold the
baseboard up out of the way while my wife has her finger on the button. I don't
know how to access that area to lube and reattach.
One other question, have you had any unusual rattles or squeaks? I believe the
walls are moving up and down on the lag screws or bolts that anchor them to the
floor..causing the squeak. Not sure how to get between them and the tanks to
tighten or supplement.
We're at the Heart of America rally at Grand Lake, Grove, Oklahoma enjoing a
rare week in the Bird. Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@...
_________________________________________________________________
Live Earth is coming. Learn more about the hottest summer event - only on MSN.
http://liveearth.msn.com?source=msntaglineliveearthwlm

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[David Brady]

Brad,

I have a slide but it's on the dinette/sofa side not the kitchen
side, so I don't have any experience with the move-able baseboard
that you describe.

I've had my share of rattles and squeaks but I've pretty much
taken care of them. I've had circumstances where the steel side
walls would have 2 layers of steel and the wood screw holding
the wall plywood pierced the first layer only to scratch at the
second layer. I've been able to fix these conditions by drilling thru
the second layer of steel (being careful not to drill thru the outside
skin, yikes), and using a slightly longer screw to pierce both layers.

Other times I've found that things are put together too tight. I've been
able to eliminate creaks and squeaks by backing out screws and
allowing panels to float a bit.

David Brady
'02 LXi, Smokey
NC

brad barton wrote:
>
>
> Dave,
> Thanks for the info. I will make the mechanic aware of that when I get
> back.
> If your LXi is a slide, did you have any trouble with the moveable
> kitchen baseboard binding up when the slide was being retracted? It is
> tacked to a small cleat that slides up when the slide comes in. The
> baseboard popped off that cleat but didn't break. The only safe way to
> retract is for me to hold the baseboard up out of the way while my
> wife has her finger on the button. I don't know how to access that
> area to lube and reattach.
> One other question, have you had any unusual rattles or squeaks? I
> believe the walls are moving up and down on the lag screws or bolts
> that anchor them to the floor..causing the squeak. Not sure how to get
> between them and the tanks to tighten or supplement.
> We're at the Heart of America rally at Grand Lake, Grove, Oklahoma
> enjoing a rare week in the Bird. Brad Barton 00LXiDFW
> bbartonwx@...
> __________________________________________________________
> Live Earth is coming. Learn more about the hottest summer event -
> only on MSN.
> http://liveearth.msn.com?source=msntaglineliveearthwlm
> <http://liveearth.msn.com?source=msntaglineliveearthwlm>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.1/854 - Release Date: 6/19/2007 1:12
PM
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]