Roof Trim

[ebirder2000@...]

Bill,
I performed this task last year on my coach. I am remembering the job
just a little differently than you describe. On my coach the aluminum drip trim
is below the awning above the windows. I did not remove this trim, simply
caulked the space between the coach and the drip trim on the upper side. (Some
areas the space was significant). I used a caulking product called Pro Flex
and was able to match the color somewhat closely. (Almond I believe)
I also caulked the awning to coach. For this I removed the awning from
the coach, removed the old foam/rubber strip that was between the awning and
the coach, installed a new strip of double backed foam tape between the awning
and coach and reinstalled the awning. After reinstalling, I caulked the
upper edge of the awning rail to coach joint. (I highly recommend that the
awning
removal is a two or three man job. When I did mine, I attempted this alone.
The awning tries to unravel and fortunately my wife came by the garage at an
opportune moment or I might still be hanging on out in the garage).
The paint did not "chip" away on my coach but the 79 coaches did not
have Imron paint on them. The Imron paint on your 88 coach might act
differently
than the alkaline based paint.
The result was satisfactory and helped the dripping rain from running
down the side of the coach. Un- fortunately in a heavy rain it still drips
through, albeit not nearly as much.

Steve Anderson
79 FC 35


In a message dated 1/10/2008 5:14:10 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
billpatty@... writes:




This is the time of year, when I do full Bird detailing. not a fun job!!

There is rain water leaking behind the trim that runs the full length
of the Bird above the awnings, on each side This is only an exterior
leak , but water runs behind the awnings , then down the windows.

Has anyone removed this trim and recaulked???H
Will the paint chip??
Does the awnings need to be removed???
What type of caulk is used???
It looks like windshield butyl. about 1/4 gap to fill.

Bill 88 FC Michigan







**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exerc...0000002489


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[pattypape]

This is the time of year, when I do full Bird detailing. not a fun job!!

There is rain water leaking behind the trim that runs the full length
of the Bird above the awnings, on each side This is only an exterior
leak , but water runs behind the awnings , then down the windows.

Has anyone removed this trim and recaulked????
Will the paint chip??
Does the awnings need to be removed???
What type of caulk is used???
It looks like windshield butyl. about 1/4 gap to fill.

Bill 88 FC Michigan

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Hi Bill:

I have re caulked several drip rails on Bird's. Yes there will be some
paint chipping, the Imron does not seems to adhere to the aluminium drip
rail trim as well as steel. Behind the screws that attach the rail over the
rub rail they cover, are small rubber gaskets, much the same idea as the
diamond plate on the top that sits on the rubber gaskets that the screws go
through to seal.

I use the grey putty tape and put 2 thicknesses in the grove on the back
made for caulk. There are 2 tools that come in very handy and works like a
charm, 1. a square caulk remover tool about $.89 at Ace and a screen roller
tool. I also found if I build a scaffold between 2 ladders, it makes the
job go so much easier. Anyway, with old caulk removed and new caulk
installed and a helper holding the far end of the rail, (most are in 2
pieces on PT's and end caps) then place the rail over the rub rails over
the windows and when you put the screws back in the grey putty will ooze
out and this is a good thing. I use the square tool to trim the ooze even
with the top of the rail then I use the roller screen tool and complete the
drip channel by rolling it into the drip rail and form a rain drip gutter.
It works great!!!

Then touch up the paint chips, (the chips are going to happen no matter how
careful you are.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
Duncan, Oklahoma

At 12:13 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:
>This is the time of year, when I do full Bird detailing. not a fun job!!
>
>There is rain water leaking behind the trim that runs the full length
>of the Bird above the awnings, on each side This is only an exterior
>leak , but water runs behind the awnings , then down the windows.
>
>Has anyone removed this trim and recaulked????
>Will the paint chip??
>Does the awnings need to be removed???
>What type of caulk is used???
>It looks like windshield butyl. about 1/4 gap to fill.
>
>Bill 88 FC Michigan
>
>
>

[pattypape]

Steve,

More proof, that no two Birds are alike.
Taking another closer look,
The four smaller window awnings are below the drip rail, The much
larger over the door awning in above the drip rail , I now understand
why you removed the awnings. This is a task, I was trying to avoid.
Good input about the Imron Paint.
It would be nice to solve this problem without removing the Awnings
or the drip rails.

Bill 88 FC Michigan




--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, ebirder2000@... wrote:
>
> Bill,
> I performed this task last year on my coach. I am remembering
the job
> just a little differently than you describe. On my coach the
aluminum drip trim
> is below the awning above the windows. I did not remove this trim,
simply
> caulked the space between the coach and the drip trim on the upper
side. (Some
> areas the space was significant). I used a caulking product called
Pro Flex
> and was able to match the color somewhat closely. (Almond I
believe)
> I also caulked the awning to coach. For this I removed the
awning from
> the coach, removed the old foam/rubber strip that was between the
awning and
> the coach, installed a new strip of double backed foam tape
between the awning
> and coach and reinstalled the awning. After reinstalling, I
caulked the
> upper edge of the awning rail to coach joint. (I highly recommend
that the awning
> removal is a two or three man job. When I did mine, I attempted
this alone.
> The awning tries to unravel and fortunately my wife came by the
garage at an
> opportune moment or I might still be hanging on out in the garage).
> The paint did not "chip" away on my coach but the 79 coaches
did not
> have Imron paint on them. The Imron paint on your 88 coach might
act differently
> than the alkaline based paint.
> The result was satisfactory and helped the dripping rain from
running
> down the side of the coach. Un- fortunately in a heavy rain it
still drips
> through, albeit not nearly as much.
>
> Steve Anderson
> 79 FC 35
>
>
> In a message dated 1/10/2008 5:14:10 A.M. US Mountain Standard
Time,
> billpatty@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> This is the time of year, when I do full Bird detailing. not a fun
job!!
>
> There is rain water leaking behind the trim that runs the full
length
> of the Bird above the awnings, on each side This is only an
exterior
> leak , but water runs behind the awnings , then down the windows.
>
> Has anyone removed this trim and recaulked???H
> Will the paint chip??
> Does the awnings need to be removed???
> What type of caulk is used???
> It looks like windshield butyl. about 1/4 gap to fill.
>
> Bill 88 FC Michigan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in
shape.
> http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?
NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[pattypape]

Ralph,

The drip rail on our 88 FC is in two pieces each side. about 28ft
and about 6 ft. I now understand the need for a scaffold and a helper,
to remove and re-install the rail.
Is the screen roller, the tool used to replace the screening in a
door or window ?? it usually has a roller at each end???
Thanks again,

Bill 88 FC Michigan


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Hi Bill:
>
> I have re caulked several drip rails on Bird's. Yes there will be
some
> paint chipping, the Imron does not seems to adhere to the aluminium
drip
> rail trim as well as steel. Behind the screws that attach the rail
over the
> rub rail they cover, are small rubber gaskets, much the same idea
as the
> diamond plate on the top that sits on the rubber gaskets that the
screws go
> through to seal.
>
> I use the grey putty tape and put 2 thicknesses in the grove on the
back
> made for caulk. There are 2 tools that come in very handy and works
like a
> charm, 1. a square caulk remover tool about $.89 at Ace and a
screen roller
> tool. I also found if I build a scaffold between 2 ladders, it
makes the
> job go so much easier. Anyway, with old caulk removed and new caulk
> installed and a helper holding the far end of the rail, (most are
in 2
> pieces on PT's and end caps) then place the rail over the rub rails
over
> the windows and when you put the screws back in the grey putty will
ooze
> out and this is a good thing. I use the square tool to trim the
ooze even
> with the top of the rail then I use the roller screen tool and
complete the
> drip channel by rolling it into the drip rail and form a rain drip
gutter.
> It works great!!!
>
> Then touch up the paint chips, (the chips are going to happen no
matter how
> careful you are.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> 84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
> Duncan, Oklahoma
>
> At 12:13 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:
> >This is the time of year, when I do full Bird detailing. not a fun
job!!
> >
> >There is rain water leaking behind the trim that runs the full
length
> >of the Bird above the awnings, on each side This is only an
exterior
> >leak , but water runs behind the awnings , then down the windows.
> >
> >Has anyone removed this trim and recaulked????
> >Will the paint chip??
> >Does the awnings need to be removed???
> >What type of caulk is used???
> >It looks like windshield butyl. about 1/4 gap to fill.
> >
> >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> >
> >
> >
>

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Bill:

Yes, that is the tool, the rounded roller works great. You can do both
sides in less than a day. Oh, for the gaskets behind the screws, I replace
them with a thick rubber gasket material I get at an auto parts store. This
is one of those jobs best done if the temp is in the 70's, besides the beer
tastes better! LOL

I use the same grey putty tape on the main awning rail and any roof work
like vents, A/C's and re seal the wiring V wedge covers. The hotter the sun
the tighter this stuff seals, un like foam rubber or silicone sealant.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
Duncan, Oklahoma

At 06:04 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:

>Ralph,
>
>The drip rail on our 88 FC is in two pieces each side. about 28ft
>and about 6 ft. I now understand the need for a scaffold and a helper,
>to remove and re-install the rail.
>Is the screen roller, the tool used to replace the screening in a
>door or window ?? it usually has a roller at each end???
>Thanks again,
>
>Bill 88 FC Michigan
>
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Bill:
> >
> > I have re caulked several drip rails on Bird's. Yes there will be
>some
> > paint chipping, the Imron does not seems to adhere to the aluminium
>drip
> > rail trim as well as steel. Behind the screws that attach the rail
>over the
> > rub rail they cover, are small rubber gaskets, much the same idea
>as the
> > diamond plate on the top that sits on the rubber gaskets that the
>screws go
> > through to seal.
> >
> > I use the grey putty tape and put 2 thicknesses in the grove on the
>back
> > made for caulk. There are 2 tools that come in very handy and works
>like a
> > charm, 1. a square caulk remover tool about $.89 at Ace and a
>screen roller
> > tool. I also found if I build a scaffold between 2 ladders, it
>makes the
> > job go so much easier. Anyway, with old caulk removed and new caulk
> > installed and a helper holding the far end of the rail, (most are
>in 2
> > pieces on PT's and end caps) then place the rail over the rub rails
>over
> > the windows and when you put the screws back in the grey putty will
>ooze
> > out and this is a good thing. I use the square tool to trim the
>ooze even
> > with the top of the rail then I use the roller screen tool and
>complete the
> > drip channel by rolling it into the drip rail and form a rain drip
>gutter.
> > It works great!!!
> >
> > Then touch up the paint chips, (the chips are going to happen no
>matter how
> > careful you are.
> >
> > Safe travels,
> >
> > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > 84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
> > Duncan, Oklahoma
> >
> > At 12:13 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:
> > >This is the time of year, when I do full Bird detailing. not a fun
>job!!
> > >
> > >There is rain water leaking behind the trim that runs the full
>length
> > >of the Bird above the awnings, on each side This is only an
>exterior
> > >leak , but water runs behind the awnings , then down the windows.
> > >
> > >Has anyone removed this trim and recaulked????
> > >Will the paint chip??
> > >Does the awnings need to be removed???
> > >What type of caulk is used???
> > >It looks like windshield butyl. about 1/4 gap to fill.
> > >
> > >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>

[pattypape]

Thanks Ralph,

Just to confirm ,
We are talking about plumbers putty. Comes in a can , ribbon or rope
putty. Old timers used to for glazing the old type wood sash window
glass.

Bill 88 FC Michigan


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Bill:
>
> Yes, that is the tool, the rounded roller works great. You can do
both
> sides in less than a day. Oh, for the gaskets behind the screws, I
replace
> them with a thick rubber gasket material I get at an auto parts
store. This
> is one of those jobs best done if the temp is in the 70's, besides
the beer
> tastes better! LOL
>
> I use the same grey putty tape on the main awning rail and any roof
work
> like vents, A/C's and re seal the wiring V wedge covers. The hotter
the sun
> the tighter this stuff seals, un like foam rubber or silicone
sealant.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> 84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
> Duncan, Oklahoma
>
> At 06:04 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Ralph,
> >
> >The drip rail on our 88 FC is in two pieces each side. about 28ft
> >and about 6 ft. I now understand the need for a scaffold and a
helper,
> >to remove and re-install the rail.
> >Is the screen roller, the tool used to replace the screening in a
> >door or window ?? it usually has a roller at each end???
> >Thanks again,
> >
> >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> >
> >
> >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Bill:
> > >
> > > I have re caulked several drip rails on Bird's. Yes there will
be
> >some
> > > paint chipping, the Imron does not seems to adhere to the
aluminium
> >drip
> > > rail trim as well as steel. Behind the screws that attach the
rail
> >over the
> > > rub rail they cover, are small rubber gaskets, much the same
idea
> >as the
> > > diamond plate on the top that sits on the rubber gaskets that
the
> >screws go
> > > through to seal.
> > >
> > > I use the grey putty tape and put 2 thicknesses in the grove on
the
> >back
> > > made for caulk. There are 2 tools that come in very handy and
works
> >like a
> > > charm, 1. a square caulk remover tool about $.89 at Ace and a
> >screen roller
> > > tool. I also found if I build a scaffold between 2 ladders, it
> >makes the
> > > job go so much easier. Anyway, with old caulk removed and new
caulk
> > > installed and a helper holding the far end of the rail, (most
are
> >in 2
> > > pieces on PT's and end caps) then place the rail over the rub
rails
> >over
> > > the windows and when you put the screws back in the grey putty
will
> >ooze
> > > out and this is a good thing. I use the square tool to trim the
> >ooze even
> > > with the top of the rail then I use the roller screen tool and
> >complete the
> > > drip channel by rolling it into the drip rail and form a rain
drip
> >gutter.
> > > It works great!!!
> > >
> > > Then touch up the paint chips, (the chips are going to happen no
> >matter how
> > > careful you are.
> > >
> > > Safe travels,
> > >
> > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > 84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
> > > Duncan, Oklahoma
> > >
> > > At 12:13 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:
> > > >This is the time of year, when I do full Bird detailing. not a
fun
> >job!!
> > > >
> > > >There is rain water leaking behind the trim that runs the full
> >length
> > > >of the Bird above the awnings, on each side This is only an
> >exterior
> > > >leak , but water runs behind the awnings , then down the
windows.
> > > >
> > > >Has anyone removed this trim and recaulked????
> > > >Will the paint chip??
> > > >Does the awnings need to be removed???
> > > >What type of caulk is used???
> > > >It looks like windshield butyl. about 1/4 gap to fill.
> > > >
> > > >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Ribbon; about 3/4 inch wide rolled up and separated with paper about $4.00
per roll give or take, you can get it in white as well. I put one strip or
thickness on the apply another then mount on the coach.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
Duncan, Oklahoma

At 07:04 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:



>Thanks Ralph,
>
>Just to confirm ,
>We are talking about plumbers putty. Comes in a can , ribbon or rope
>putty. Old timers used to for glazing the old type wood sash window
>glass.
>
>Bill 88 FC Michigan
>
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> wrote:
> >
> > Bill:
> >
> > Yes, that is the tool, the rounded roller works great. You can do
>both
> > sides in less than a day. Oh, for the gaskets behind the screws, I
>replace
> > them with a thick rubber gasket material I get at an auto parts
>store. This
> > is one of those jobs best done if the temp is in the 70's, besides
>the beer
> > tastes better! LOL
> >
> > I use the same grey putty tape on the main awning rail and any roof
>work
> > like vents, A/C's and re seal the wiring V wedge covers. The hotter
>the sun
> > the tighter this stuff seals, un like foam rubber or silicone
>sealant.
> >
> > Safe travels,
> >
> > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > 84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
> > Duncan, Oklahoma
> >
> > At 06:04 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:
> >
> > >Ralph,
> > >
> > >The drip rail on our 88 FC is in two pieces each side. about 28ft
> > >and about 6 ft. I now understand the need for a scaffold and a
>helper,
> > >to remove and re-install the rail.
> > >Is the screen roller, the tool used to replace the screening in a
> > >door or window ?? it usually has a roller at each end???
> > >Thanks again,
> > >
> > >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> > >
> > >
> > >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Bill:
> > > >
> > > > I have re caulked several drip rails on Bird's. Yes there will
>be
> > >some
> > > > paint chipping, the Imron does not seems to adhere to the
>aluminium
> > >drip
> > > > rail trim as well as steel. Behind the screws that attach the
>rail
> > >over the
> > > > rub rail they cover, are small rubber gaskets, much the same
>idea
> > >as the
> > > > diamond plate on the top that sits on the rubber gaskets that
>the
> > >screws go
> > > > through to seal.
> > > >
> > > > I use the grey putty tape and put 2 thicknesses in the grove on
>the
> > >back
> > > > made for caulk. There are 2 tools that come in very handy and
>works
> > >like a
> > > > charm, 1. a square caulk remover tool about $.89 at Ace and a
> > >screen roller
> > > > tool. I also found if I build a scaffold between 2 ladders, it
> > >makes the
> > > > job go so much easier. Anyway, with old caulk removed and new
>caulk
> > > > installed and a helper holding the far end of the rail, (most
>are
> > >in 2
> > > > pieces on PT's and end caps) then place the rail over the rub
>rails
> > >over
> > > > the windows and when you put the screws back in the grey putty
>will
> > >ooze
> > > > out and this is a good thing. I use the square tool to trim the
> > >ooze even
> > > > with the top of the rail then I use the roller screen tool and
> > >complete the
> > > > drip channel by rolling it into the drip rail and form a rain
>drip
> > >gutter.
> > > > It works great!!!
> > > >
> > > > Then touch up the paint chips, (the chips are going to happen no
> > >matter how
> > > > careful you are.
> > > >
> > > > Safe travels,
> > > >
> > > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > > 84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
> > > > Duncan, Oklahoma
> > > >
> > > > At 12:13 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:
> > > > >This is the time of year, when I do full Bird detailing. not a
>fun
> > >job!!
> > > > >
> > > > >There is rain water leaking behind the trim that runs the full
> > >length
> > > > >of the Bird above the awnings, on each side This is only an
> > >exterior
> > > > >leak , but water runs behind the awnings , then down the
>windows.
> > > > >
> > > > >Has anyone removed this trim and recaulked????
> > > > >Will the paint chip??
> > > > >Does the awnings need to be removed???
> > > > >What type of caulk is used???
> > > > >It looks like windshield butyl. about 1/4 gap to fill.
> > > > >
> > > > >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>

[pattypape]

Thanks,

Bill 88 FC Michigan

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Ribbon; about 3/4 inch wide rolled up and separated with paper
about $4.00
> per roll give or take, you can get it in white as well. I put one
strip or
> thickness on the apply another then mount on the coach.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> 84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
> Duncan, Oklahoma
>
> At 07:04 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:
>
>
>
> >Thanks Ralph,
> >
> >Just to confirm ,
> >We are talking about plumbers putty. Comes in a can , ribbon or
rope
> >putty. Old timers used to for glazing the old type wood sash window
> >glass.
> >
> >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> >
> >
> >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Bill:
> > >
> > > Yes, that is the tool, the rounded roller works great. You can
do
> >both
> > > sides in less than a day. Oh, for the gaskets behind the
screws, I
> >replace
> > > them with a thick rubber gasket material I get at an auto parts
> >store. This
> > > is one of those jobs best done if the temp is in the 70's,
besides
> >the beer
> > > tastes better! LOL
> > >
> > > I use the same grey putty tape on the main awning rail and any
roof
> >work
> > > like vents, A/C's and re seal the wiring V wedge covers. The
hotter
> >the sun
> > > the tighter this stuff seals, un like foam rubber or silicone
> >sealant.
> > >
> > > Safe travels,
> > >
> > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > 84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
> > > Duncan, Oklahoma
> > >
> > > At 06:04 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >Ralph,
> > > >
> > > >The drip rail on our 88 FC is in two pieces each side. about
28ft
> > > >and about 6 ft. I now understand the need for a scaffold and a
> >helper,
> > > >to remove and re-install the rail.
> > > >Is the screen roller, the tool used to replace the screening
in a
> > > >door or window ?? it usually has a roller at each end???
> > > >Thanks again,
> > > >
> > > >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Bill:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have re caulked several drip rails on Bird's. Yes there
will
> >be
> > > >some
> > > > > paint chipping, the Imron does not seems to adhere to the
> >aluminium
> > > >drip
> > > > > rail trim as well as steel. Behind the screws that attach
the
> >rail
> > > >over the
> > > > > rub rail they cover, are small rubber gaskets, much the same
> >idea
> > > >as the
> > > > > diamond plate on the top that sits on the rubber gaskets
that
> >the
> > > >screws go
> > > > > through to seal.
> > > > >
> > > > > I use the grey putty tape and put 2 thicknesses in the
grove on
> >the
> > > >back
> > > > > made for caulk. There are 2 tools that come in very handy
and
> >works
> > > >like a
> > > > > charm, 1. a square caulk remover tool about $.89 at Ace and
a
> > > >screen roller
> > > > > tool. I also found if I build a scaffold between 2 ladders,
it
> > > >makes the
> > > > > job go so much easier. Anyway, with old caulk removed and
new
> >caulk
> > > > > installed and a helper holding the far end of the rail,
(most
> >are
> > > >in 2
> > > > > pieces on PT's and end caps) then place the rail over the
rub
> >rails
> > > >over
> > > > > the windows and when you put the screws back in the grey
putty
> >will
> > > >ooze
> > > > > out and this is a good thing. I use the square tool to trim
the
> > > >ooze even
> > > > > with the top of the rail then I use the roller screen tool
and
> > > >complete the
> > > > > drip channel by rolling it into the drip rail and form a
rain
> >drip
> > > >gutter.
> > > > > It works great!!!
> > > > >
> > > > > Then touch up the paint chips, (the chips are going to
happen no
> > > >matter how
> > > > > careful you are.
> > > > >
> > > > > Safe travels,
> > > > >
> > > > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > > > 84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
> > > > > Duncan, Oklahoma
> > > > >
> > > > > At 12:13 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:
> > > > > >This is the time of year, when I do full Bird detailing.
not a
> >fun
> > > >job!!
> > > > > >
> > > > > >There is rain water leaking behind the trim that runs the
full
> > > >length
> > > > > >of the Bird above the awnings, on each side This is only an
> > > >exterior
> > > > > >leak , but water runs behind the awnings , then down the
> >windows.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Has anyone removed this trim and recaulked????
> > > > > >Will the paint chip??
> > > > > >Does the awnings need to be removed???
> > > > > >What type of caulk is used???
> > > > > >It looks like windshield butyl. about 1/4 gap to fill.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>