Xantrex RV 3012 M Inverter Installation, Reinventing the wheel!
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06-09-2008, 08:44
Post: #1
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Xantrex RV 3012 M Inverter Installation, Reinventing the wheel!
The two inveters arrived in new sealed boxes. The RV7/GS controlers
arrived in as new condition, but they were in non mfg packaging. cost to date: $1370.00 inverters. $ 305.00 controls. $ 100.00 Sheet metal and aluminum angle for lining bay. I decided that I will move the inverters into bay 3, right side in place of the electric grill, from the hot, dirty, and sometimes wet inverter box in the engine compartment. After the renovations I will convert the old inverter box to hold 2 more house batteries. I have removed the grill and I have lined the area with sheet metal, and framed the opening with aluminum angle. I also replaced the small angle iron mounting peices with wider aluminun braces and ran an angle support under the shelf to help support the 120+ lbs. of weight, Overkill! When the tool box is under the shelf it does not move or vibrate. I will post photos shortly. There is the question of how large the wires have to be that connect the invertes to the batteries. It will take appox. 115' of cable to get the job done and if you have bought heavy copper cable of late it's not cheep! It looks like around $10.00 a foot for 350 MCM welding cable. It is 0.970 in diameter So I am having a bit of trouble figuring out how or where to run these cables. Idealy inside the frame rail would be my first choice, but after spending a few hours under the coach, poking around, this will be impossible without getting the coach on a lift. Anybody know what size cable is used on the coaches that have factory installed inverters in the bays? Here is a responce from Xantrex about the cable size. YIKES!!! Dear Kurt Horvath, My wire size calculator says 1000 MCM, which I didn't even know existed until just now. Is there any way you can shorten the run to 12 feet, which would allow you to use 500 MCM? For all correspondence regarding this issue, please make sure to leave the ID number [ref:00D3Wjr.500351Yfr:ref] in the subject line or body of the email. Allegra Sloman Customer Service Operations Xantrex Technology Inc. Well there goes the farm 1000 MCM cable???? There are 2 large cables running along the top inside of the wheel well from the engine compartment into the holding tank bay and forwards from there. This looks like the easy way to run the cables but it is exposed to a lot road damage and wear and tear, not to mention a tire coming apart. So it's not really a good choice. Any ideas on this option? I am checking into STACKING the inverters. I really don't know much about how this system works. Or what is required to change from the two unit system to a STACKED system. I do know that it reduces the required cable lenght in half. Any ideas here would be helpful. I also have to run the control wires and 120v wires from the engine bay to the new invert bay. The control wires are also a small problem the origonal wires are 6 wire data lines and the new control wires call for a 4 wire telephone line in place of the old data line. I'm told that these can be used with a little effort. I haven't gotten that far into the project yet. I hope that I don't have to re-run the control lines through the whole coach. One thing that bothers me is that the inverters are now surrounded by water pipes and tanks. Water pumps on one side and a small water tank on the other with plumbing going over the top. i guess I'll just have to keep an eye out for leaks. I am considering installing some small fans with snap thermostats to control venting the compartment. Here again I'm asking for ideas. You can vent out the back of the bay but it blows against the fuel tank. That doesn't seem like a good idea. Or I could mount the fans on the shelf and pipe it down through the bottom of the bay. But here again hot air rises and this will be trying to draw it downwards. I'm not even sure if this is needed. But it sounds like a lot of fun. Kurt Horvath 95 PT-42 WLWB Fayetteville TN PS. After the e-mail from Xantrex I am considering putting the new inveters back in the engine compartment. After all the old inverters were there for 13 years?!?!?!?!?!?!? HELP! |
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06-09-2008, 12:32
Post: #2
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Xantrex RV 3012 M Inverter Installation, Reinventing the wheel!
Kurt,
Would it be less costly and with less issues to re vamp the heart inverter box area above the batteries to make it waterproof and may be even taller???? With L-16 I have more room under the inverter box as the top battery tray was removed. http://www.pbase.com/gregoryoc/image/86932717 you can also split the inverters up????????? GregoryO'Connor --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bumpersbird" > > The two inveters arrived in new sealed boxes. The RV7/GS controlers > arrived in as new condition, but they were in non mfg packaging. > > cost to date: > > $1370.00 inverters. > $ 305.00 controls. > $ 100.00 Sheet metal and aluminum angle for lining bay. > > I decided that I will move the inverters into bay 3, right side in > place of the electric grill, from the hot, dirty, and sometimes wet > inverter box in the engine compartment. > > After the renovations I will convert the old inverter box to hold 2 > more house batteries. > > I have removed the grill and I have lined the area with sheet metal, > and framed the opening with aluminum angle. I also replaced the > small angle iron mounting peices with wider aluminun braces and ran > an angle support under the shelf to help support the 120+ lbs. of > weight, Overkill! When the tool box is under the shelf it does not > move or vibrate. I will post photos shortly. > > There is the question of how large the wires have to be that connect > the invertes to the batteries. It will take appox. 115' of cable to > get the job done and if you have bought heavy copper cable of late > it's not cheep! It looks like around $10.00 a foot for 350 MCM > welding cable. > > It is 0.970 in diameter So I am having a bit of trouble figuring out > how or where to run these cables. Idealy inside the frame rail would > be my first choice, but after spending a few hours under the coach, > poking around, this will be impossible without getting the coach on a > lift. Anybody know what size cable is used on the coaches that have > factory installed inverters in the bays? > > Here is a responce from Xantrex about the cable size. YIKES!!! > > > Dear Kurt Horvath, > > My wire size calculator says 1000 MCM, which I didn't even know > existed until just now. Is there any way you can shorten the run to > 12 feet, which would allow you to use 500 MCM? > > For all correspondence regarding this issue, please make sure to > leave the ID number [ref:00D3Wjr.500351Yfr:ref] in the subject line > or body of the email. > > Allegra Sloman > Customer Service Operations > Xantrex Technology Inc. > > Well there goes the farm 1000 MCM cable???? > > There are 2 large cables running along the top inside of the wheel > well from the engine compartment into the holding tank bay and > forwards from there. This looks like the easy way to run the cables > but it is exposed to a lot road damage and wear and tear, not to > mention a tire coming apart. So it's not really a good choice. Any > ideas on this option? > > I am checking into STACKING the inverters. I really don't know much > about how this system works. Or what is required to change from the > two unit system to a STACKED system. I do know that it reduces the > required cable lenght in half. Any ideas here would be helpful. > > I also have to run the control wires and 120v wires from the engine > bay to the new invert bay. The control wires are also a small problem > the origonal wires are 6 wire data lines and the new control wires > call for a 4 wire telephone line in place of the old data line. I'm > told that these can be used with a little effort. I haven't gotten > that far into the project yet. I hope that I don't have to re-run the > control lines through the whole coach. > > One thing that bothers me is that the inverters are now surrounded by > water pipes and tanks. Water pumps on one side and a small water tank > on the other with plumbing going over the top. i guess I'll just have > to keep an eye out for leaks. > > I am considering installing some small fans with snap thermostats to > control venting the compartment. Here again I'm asking for ideas. You > can vent out the back of the bay but it blows against the fuel tank. > That doesn't seem like a good idea. Or I could mount the fans on the > shelf and pipe it down through the bottom of the bay. But here again > hot air rises and this will be trying to draw it downwards. I'm not > even sure if this is needed. But it sounds like a lot of fun. > > > Kurt Horvath > 95 PT-42 WLWB > Fayetteville TN > > > > PS. After the e-mail from Xantrex I am considering putting the new > inveters back in the engine compartment. After all the old inverters > were there for 13 years?!?!?!?!?!?!? HELP! > |
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06-09-2008, 14:48
Post: #3
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Xantrex RV 3012 M Inverter Installation, Reinventing the wheel!
Gregg,
Your probably right. I spoke with several people today, Xantrex support, Solar power techs etc. after I posted my little progress report. It seems as it does not matter how heavy the cable is after a certain lenght the DC side decreases efficance for every foot past 7' and after about 12' it may not function at all. I've learned there are three enemies of an invertrer: 1- Moisture,2- Heat,3- Dirt I have been told that it can be done but the majority opinion is it's better to keep the inverters as close to the batteries as possible, even if they run hot and are in a dirty enviroment. By the way those who think it's doable have not elaborated on how to do it. So I'm going to put the new units in the inverter box in the engine compartment. It will be a tight fit. Moisture is not really a problem, perhaps condensation on the rare occasion. I will vent it in some fashion, probably a couple of 130 cfm computer fans. The fans that I'm installing to cool the engine compartment should also help a lot. I'm mounting 2 - 1650 CFM radiator fans on the right side grill. The inverters are just a 10" or 12" away. I might place some sort of air filter on the door in an attemp to keep the box interior somewhat clean. I have 6 Lifline Batteries, they are only 24 month old and in time switching to something else could happen, but these will have to die first, especially at $600.00 each SSSSHHHHHH_________TTTTTTTT !!!!!! There I go again, trying to reinvent the wheel. To be honest this was probably one of Bluebirds bigger engineering screw ups. Then again maybe not the old inverters were in there for 13 years. Hey on the bright side the bay with the BBQ is now metal lined, Looks good and should be easier to clean. Kurt Horvath 95 PT-42 WLWB Fayetteville TN --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor" > > Kurt, > Would it be less costly and with less issues to re vamp the heart > inverter box area above the batteries to make it waterproof and may > be even taller???? > > With L-16 I have more room under the inverter box as the top > battery tray was removed. > http://www.pbase.com/gregoryoc/image/86932717 > > you can also split the inverters up????????? > > > GregoryO'Connor > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bumpersbird" > > > > > The two inveters arrived in new sealed boxes. The RV7/GS > controlers > > arrived in as new condition, but they were in non mfg packaging. > > > > cost to date: > > > > $1370.00 inverters. > > $ 305.00 controls. > > $ 100.00 Sheet metal and aluminum angle for lining bay. > > > > I decided that I will move the inverters into bay 3, right side in > > place of the electric grill, from the hot, dirty, and sometimes > wet > > inverter box in the engine compartment. > > > > After the renovations I will convert the old inverter box to hold > 2 > > more house batteries. > > > > I have removed the grill and I have lined the area with sheet > metal, > > and framed the opening with aluminum angle. I also replaced the > > small angle iron mounting peices with wider aluminun braces and > ran > > an angle support under the shelf to help support the 120+ lbs. of > > weight, Overkill! When the tool box is under the shelf it does not > > move or vibrate. I will post photos shortly. > > > > There is the question of how large the wires have to be that > connect > > the invertes to the batteries. It will take appox. 115' of cable > to > > get the job done and if you have bought heavy copper cable of late > > it's not cheep! It looks like around $10.00 a foot for 350 MCM > > welding cable. > > > > It is 0.970 in diameter So I am having a bit of trouble figuring > out > > how or where to run these cables. Idealy inside the frame rail > would > > be my first choice, but after spending a few hours under the > coach, > > poking around, this will be impossible without getting the coach > on a > > lift. Anybody know what size cable is used on the coaches that > have > > factory installed inverters in the bays? > > > > Here is a responce from Xantrex about the cable size. YIKES!!! > > > > > > Dear Kurt Horvath, > > > > My wire size calculator says 1000 MCM, which I didn't even know > > existed until just now. Is there any way you can shorten the run > to > > 12 feet, which would allow you to use 500 MCM? > > > > For all correspondence regarding this issue, please make sure to > > leave the ID number [ref:00D3Wjr.500351Yfr:ref] in the subject > line > > or body of the email. > > > > Allegra Sloman > > Customer Service Operations > > Xantrex Technology Inc. > > > > Well there goes the farm 1000 MCM cable???? > > > > There are 2 large cables running along the top inside of the wheel > > well from the engine compartment into the holding tank bay and > > forwards from there. This looks like the easy way to run the > cables > > but it is exposed to a lot road damage and wear and tear, not to > > mention a tire coming apart. So it's not really a good choice. Any > > ideas on this option? > > > > I am checking into STACKING the inverters. I really don't know > much > > about how this system works. Or what is required to change from > the > > two unit system to a STACKED system. I do know that it reduces the > > required cable lenght in half. Any ideas here would be helpful. > > > > I also have to run the control wires and 120v wires from the > engine > > bay to the new invert bay. The control wires are also a small > problem > > the origonal wires are 6 wire data lines and the new control wires > > call for a 4 wire telephone line in place of the old data line. > I'm > > told that these can be used with a little effort. I haven't gotten > > that far into the project yet. I hope that I don't have to re-run > the > > control lines through the whole coach. > > > > One thing that bothers me is that the inverters are now surrounded > by > > water pipes and tanks. Water pumps on one side and a small water > tank > > on the other with plumbing going over the top. i guess I'll just > have > > to keep an eye out for leaks. > > > > I am considering installing some small fans with snap thermostats > to > > control venting the compartment. Here again I'm asking for ideas. > You > > can vent out the back of the bay but it blows against the fuel > tank. > > That doesn't seem like a good idea. Or I could mount the fans on > the > > shelf and pipe it down through the bottom of the bay. But here > again > > hot air rises and this will be trying to draw it downwards. I'm > not > > even sure if this is needed. But it sounds like a lot of fun. > > > > > > Kurt Horvath > > 95 PT-42 WLWB > > Fayetteville TN > > > > > > > > PS. After the e-mail from Xantrex I am considering putting the new > > inveters back in the engine compartment. After all the old > inverters > > were there for 13 years?!?!?!?!?!?!? HELP! > > > |
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06-09-2008, 16:22
Post: #4
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Xantrex RV 3012 M Inverter Installation, Reinventing the wheel!
The only time it is hot is when the engine is running. I learned
with the refer mod that moving air with a fan has little cooling effect. replacing the air in the compartment with a fan has the most advantage. If you look at the inverter box that BB engineeres (BirdBrains) installed(in my '94), it floats in the battery compartment with air gap around the entire box. Even the material it is made of looks like it is a special (maybe, low heat conductive) product???????I wonder if the box by design cools with passing air as you drive or is there a better way to move the engine heated air away from the inverter box? I wonder if a scoop would move more air or hinder the existing path The "three enemies of inverters" Xantrex quote may be three enimies of an Inverter/Charger and not necessarly of just the stand alone inverter??????? . I wonder why BB speced units with remote batterychargers??? and why they moved the chargers so far away. Is it a heat issue with the chargers only??? . if Chargers-only have the heat issue (prompting the BirdBrain move), chargers are not worked while driving unless you drive with the genset running, so while driving heat is of no issue with inverter only???? It may be that you need to cut 110V input to the inverter/ chargers when the detroit is running (or InverterBox temp is too hot) to keep the chargers from lighting up if the genset is used. GregoryO'Connor 94pt in need of new inverter chargers. --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bumpersbird" > > Gregg, > > Your probably right. > > I spoke with several people today, Xantrex support, Solar power techs > etc. after I posted my little progress report. It seems as it does > not matter how heavy the cable is after a certain lenght the DC side > decreases efficance for every foot past 7' and after about 12' it may > not function at all. I've learned there are three enemies of an > invertrer: 1- Moisture,2- Heat,3- Dirt > > I have been told that it can be done but the majority opinion is it's > better to keep the inverters as close to the batteries as possible, > even if they run hot and are in a dirty enviroment. By the way those > who think it's doable have not elaborated on how to do it. > > So I'm going to put the new units in the inverter box in the engine > compartment. It will be a tight fit. Moisture is not really a > problem, perhaps condensation on the rare occasion. I will vent it in > some fashion, probably a couple of 130 cfm computer fans. The fans > that I'm installing to cool the engine compartment should also help a > lot. I'm mounting 2 - 1650 CFM radiator fans on the right side grill. > The inverters are just a 10" or 12" away. I might place some sort of > air filter on the door in an attemp to keep the box interior somewhat > clean. > > I have 6 Lifline Batteries, they are only 24 month old and in time > switching to something else could happen, but these will have to die > first, especially at $600.00 each > > SSSSHHHHHH_________TTTTTTTT !!!!!! There I go again, trying to > reinvent the wheel. To be honest this was probably one of Bluebirds > bigger engineering screw ups. Then again maybe not the old inverters > were in there for 13 years. > > Hey on the bright side the bay with the BBQ is now metal lined, Looks > good and should be easier to clean. > > Kurt Horvath > 95 PT-42 WLWB > Fayetteville TN > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor" > > > > > Kurt, > > Would it be less costly and with less issues to re vamp the heart > > inverter box area above the batteries to make it waterproof and may > > be even taller???? > > > > With L-16 I have more room under the inverter box as the top > > battery tray was removed. > > http://www.pbase.com/gregoryoc/image/86932717 > > > > you can also split the inverters up????????? > > > > > > GregoryO'Connor > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bumpersbird" > > > > > > > > The two inveters arrived in new sealed boxes. The RV7/GS > > controlers > > > arrived in as new condition, but they were in non mfg packaging. > > > > > > cost to date: > > > > > > $1370.00 inverters. > > > $ 305.00 controls. > > > $ 100.00 Sheet metal and aluminum angle for lining bay. > > > > > > I decided that I will move the inverters into bay 3, right side > in > > > place of the electric grill, from the hot, dirty, and sometimes > > wet > > > inverter box in the engine compartment. > > > > > > After the renovations I will convert the old inverter box to hold > > 2 > > > more house batteries. > > > > > > I have removed the grill and I have lined the area with sheet > > metal, > > > and framed the opening with aluminum angle. I also replaced the > > > small angle iron mounting peices with wider aluminun braces and > > ran > > > an angle support under the shelf to help support the 120+ lbs. of > > > weight, Overkill! When the tool box is under the shelf it does > not > > > move or vibrate. I will post photos shortly. > > > > > > There is the question of how large the wires have to be that > > connect > > > the invertes to the batteries. It will take appox. 115' of cable > > to > > > get the job done and if you have bought heavy copper cable of > late > > > it's not cheep! It looks like around $10.00 a foot for 350 MCM > > > welding cable. > > > > > > It is 0.970 in diameter So I am having a bit of trouble figuring > > out > > > how or where to run these cables. Idealy inside the frame rail > > would > > > be my first choice, but after spending a few hours under the > > coach, > > > poking around, this will be impossible without getting the coach > > on a > > > lift. Anybody know what size cable is used on the coaches that > > have > > > factory installed inverters in the bays? > > > > > > Here is a responce from Xantrex about the cable size. YIKES!!! > > > > > > > > > Dear Kurt Horvath, > > > > > > My wire size calculator says 1000 MCM, which I didn't even know > > > existed until just now. Is there any way you can shorten the run > > to > > > 12 feet, which would allow you to use 500 MCM? > > > > > > For all correspondence regarding this issue, please make sure to > > > leave the ID number [ref:00D3Wjr.500351Yfr:ref] in the subject > > line > > > or body of the email. > > > > > > Allegra Sloman > > > Customer Service Operations > > > Xantrex Technology Inc. > > > > > > Well there goes the farm 1000 MCM cable???? > > > > > > There are 2 large cables running along the top inside of the > wheel > > > well from the engine compartment into the holding tank bay and > > > forwards from there. This looks like the easy way to run the > > cables > > > but it is exposed to a lot road damage and wear and tear, not to > > > mention a tire coming apart. So it's not really a good choice. > Any > > > ideas on this option? > > > > > > I am checking into STACKING the inverters. I really don't know > > much > > > about how this system works. Or what is required to change from > > the > > > two unit system to a STACKED system. I do know that it reduces > the > > > required cable lenght in half. Any ideas here would be helpful. > > > > > > I also have to run the control wires and 120v wires from the > > engine > > > bay to the new invert bay. The control wires are also a small > > problem > > > the origonal wires are 6 wire data lines and the new control > wires > > > call for a 4 wire telephone line in place of the old data line. > > I'm > > > told that these can be used with a little effort. I haven't > gotten > > > that far into the project yet. I hope that I don't have to re- run > > the > > > control lines through the whole coach. > > > > > > One thing that bothers me is that the inverters are now > surrounded > > by > > > water pipes and tanks. Water pumps on one side and a small water > > tank > > > on the other with plumbing going over the top. i guess I'll just > > have > > > to keep an eye out for leaks. > > > > > > I am considering installing some small fans with snap thermostats > > to > > > control venting the compartment. Here again I'm asking for ideas. > > You > > > can vent out the back of the bay but it blows against the fuel > > tank. > > > That doesn't seem like a good idea. Or I could mount the fans on > > the > > > shelf and pipe it down through the bottom of the bay. But here > > again > > > hot air rises and this will be trying to draw it downwards. I'm > > not > > > even sure if this is needed. But it sounds like a lot of fun. > > > > > > > > > Kurt Horvath > > > 95 PT-42 WLWB > > > Fayetteville TN > > > > > > > > > > > > PS. After the e-mail from Xantrex I am considering putting the > new > > > inveters back in the engine compartment. After all the old > > inverters > > > were there for 13 years?!?!?!?!?!?!? HELP! > > > > > > |
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06-10-2008, 00:12
Post: #5
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Xantrex RV 3012 M Inverter Installation, Reinventing the wheel!
I'm absolutely planning on running the 3012 I bought while the engine is running, to provide some amount of 120VAC while driving down the road. I'm considering mounting it inside the coach in the cabinet behind the drivers seat, since that would be within two or three feet of the batteries...
Dorn Hetzel 77FC35 Hogansville, GA On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 12:22 AM, Gregory OConnor <"Gregoryoc@aol.com"> wrote:
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06-10-2008, 02:33
Post: #6
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Xantrex RV 3012 M Inverter Installation, Reinventing the wheel!
Dorn,
Yes a cool, dry, clean place for the new unit. Within a few feet of the batterries. Sounds perfect, speaking of sound. Did you notice the large cooling fan on the back of the inverter. I wonder how loud that baby is when she spins up? You could vent that fan out of the cabinet somehow, maybe like a side wall mounted water heater. I am sure you will have to vent it somehow. The installation instructions warn about mounting in an enclosed space. Kurt Horvath 95 PT-42 10AC --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Dorn Hetzel" wrote: > > I'm absolutely planning on running the 3012 I bought while the engine is > running, to provide some amount of 120VAC while driving down the road. I'm > considering mounting it inside the coach in the cabinet behind the drivers > seat, since that would be within two or three feet of the batteries... > > Dorn Hetzel > 77FC35 > Hogansville, GA > > On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 12:22 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote: > > > The only time it is hot is when the engine is running. I learned > > with the refer mod that moving air with a fan has little cooling > > effect. replacing the air in the compartment with a fan has the most > > advantage. > > > > If you look at the inverter box that BB engineeres (BirdBrains) > > installed(in my '94), it floats in the battery compartment with air > > gap around the entire box. Even the material it is made of looks > > like it is a special (maybe, low heat conductive) product???????I > > wonder if the box by design cools with passing air as you drive or > > is there a better way to move the engine heated air away from the > > inverter box? I wonder if a scoop would move more air or hinder the > > existing path > > > > The "three enemies of inverters" Xantrex quote may be three enimies > > of an Inverter/Charger and not necessarly of just the stand alone > > inverter??????? . I wonder why BB speced units with remote > > batterychargers??? and why they moved the chargers so far away. Is > > it a heat issue with the chargers only??? . > > > > if Chargers-only have the heat issue (prompting the BirdBrain move), > > chargers are not worked while driving unless you drive with the > > genset running, so while driving heat is of no issue with inverter > > only???? It may be that you need to cut 110V input to the inverter/ > > chargers when the detroit is running (or InverterBox temp is too > > hot) to keep the chargers from lighting up if the genset is used. > > > > GregoryO'Connor > > 94pt in need of new inverter chargers. > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > > "bumpersbird" > > > > > > > > Gregg, > > > > > > Your probably right. > > > > > > I spoke with several people today, Xantrex support, Solar power > > techs > > > etc. after I posted my little progress report. It seems as it does > > > not matter how heavy the cable is after a certain lenght the DC > > side > > > decreases efficance for every foot past 7' and after about 12' it > > may > > > not function at all. I've learned there are three enemies of an > > > invertrer: 1- Moisture,2- Heat,3- Dirt > > > > > > I have been told that it can be done but the majority opinion is > > it's > > > better to keep the inverters as close to the batteries as > > possible, > > > even if they run hot and are in a dirty enviroment. By the way > > those > > > who think it's doable have not elaborated on how to do it. > > > > > > So I'm going to put the new units in the inverter box in the > > engine > > > compartment. It will be a tight fit. Moisture is not really a > > > problem, perhaps condensation on the rare occasion. I will vent it > > in > > > some fashion, probably a couple of 130 cfm computer fans. The fans > > > that I'm installing to cool the engine compartment should also > > help a > > > lot. I'm mounting 2 - 1650 CFM radiator fans on the right side > > grill. > > > The inverters are just a 10" or 12" away. I might place some sort > > of > > > air filter on the door in an attemp to keep the box interior > > somewhat > > > clean. > > > > > > I have 6 Lifline Batteries, they are only 24 month old and in time > > > switching to something else could happen, but these will have to > > die > > > first, especially at $600.00 each > > > > > > SSSSHHHHHH_________TTTTTTTT !!!!!! There I go again, trying to > > > reinvent the wheel. To be honest this was probably one of > > Bluebirds > > > bigger engineering screw ups. Then again maybe not the old > > inverters > > > were in there for 13 years. > > > > > > Hey on the bright side the bay with the BBQ is now metal lined, > > Looks > > > good and should be easier to clean. > > > > > > Kurt Horvath > > > 95 PT-42 WLWB > > > Fayetteville TN > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > > "Gregory OConnor" > > > > > > > > > > > Kurt, > > > > Would it be less costly and with less issues to re vamp the > > heart > > > > inverter box area above the batteries to make it waterproof and > > may > > > > be even taller???? > > > > > > > > With L-16 I have more room under the inverter box as the top > > > > battery tray was removed. > > > > http://www.pbase.com/gregoryoc/image/86932717 > > > > > > > > you can also split the inverters up????????? > > > > > > > > > > > > GregoryO'Connor > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > > "bumpersbird" > > > > > > > > > > > > > > The two inveters arrived in new sealed boxes. The RV7/GS > > > > controlers > > > > > arrived in as new condition, but they were in non mfg > > packaging. > > > > > > > > > > cost to date: > > > > > > > > > > $1370.00 inverters. > > > > > $ 305.00 controls. > > > > > $ 100.00 Sheet metal and aluminum angle for lining bay. > > > > > > > > > > I decided that I will move the inverters into bay 3, right > > side > > > in > > > > > place of the electric grill, from the hot, dirty, and > > sometimes > > > > wet > > > > > inverter box in the engine compartment. > > > > > > > > > > After the renovations I will convert the old inverter box to > > hold > > > > 2 > > > > > more house batteries. > > > > > > > > > > I have removed the grill and I have lined the area with sheet > > > > metal, > > > > > and framed the opening with aluminum angle. I also replaced > > the > > > > > small angle iron mounting peices with wider aluminun braces > > and > > > > ran > > > > > an angle support under the shelf to help support the 120+ lbs. > > of > > > > > weight, Overkill! When the tool box is under the shelf it does > > > not > > > > > move or vibrate. I will post photos shortly. > > > > > > > > > > There is the question of how large the wires have to be that > > > > connect > > > > > the invertes to the batteries. It will take appox. 115' of > > cable > > > > to > > > > > get the job done and if you have bought heavy copper cable of > > > late > > > > > it's not cheep! It looks like around $10.00 a foot for 350 MCM > > > > > welding cable. > > > > > > > > > > It is 0.970 in diameter So I am having a bit of trouble > > figuring > > > > out > > > > > how or where to run these cables. Idealy inside the frame rail > > > > would > > > > > be my first choice, but after spending a few hours under the > > > > coach, > > > > > poking around, this will be impossible without getting the > > coach > > > > on a > > > > > lift. Anybody know what size cable is used on the coaches that > > > > have > > > > > factory installed inverters in the bays? > > > > > > > > > > Here is a responce from Xantrex about the cable size. YIKES!!! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Dear Kurt Horvath, > > > > > > > > > > My wire size calculator says 1000 MCM, which I didn't even > > know > > > > > existed until just now. Is there any way you can shorten the > > run > > > > to > > > > > 12 feet, which would allow you to use 500 MCM? > > > > > > > > > > For all correspondence regarding this issue, please make sure > > to > > > > > leave the ID number [ref:00D3Wjr.500351Yfr:ref] in the subject > > > > line > > > > > or body of the email. > > > > > > > > > > Allegra Sloman > > > > > Customer Service Operations > > > > > Xantrex Technology Inc. > > > > > > > > > > Well there goes the farm 1000 MCM cable???? > > > > > > > > > > There are 2 large cables running along the top inside of the > > > wheel > > > > > well from the engine compartment into the holding tank bay and > > > > > forwards from there. This looks like the easy way to run the > > > > cables > > > > > but it is exposed to a lot road damage and wear and tear, not > > to > > > > > mention a tire coming apart. So it's not really a good choice. > > > Any > > > > > ideas on this option? > > > > > > > > > > I am checking into STACKING the inverters. I really don't know > > > > much > > > > > about how this system works. Or what is required to change > > from > > > > the > > > > > two unit system to a STACKED system. I do know that it reduces > > > the > > > > > required cable lenght in half. Any ideas here would be helpful. > > > > > > > > > > I also have to run the control wires and 120v wires from the > > > > engine > > > > > bay to the new invert bay. The control wires are also a small > > > > problem > > > > > the origonal wires are 6 wire data lines and the new control > > > wires > > > > > call for a 4 wire telephone line in place of the old data > > line. > > > > I'm > > > > > told that these can be used with a little effort. I haven't > > > gotten > > > > > that far into the project yet. I hope that I don't have to re- > > run > > > > the > > > > > control lines through the whole coach. > > > > > > > > > > One thing that bothers me is that the inverters are now > > > surrounded > > > > by > > > > > water pipes and tanks. Water pumps on one side and a small > > water > > > > tank > > > > > on the other with plumbing going over the top. i guess I'll > > just > > > > have > > > > > to keep an eye out for leaks. > > > > > > > > > > I am considering installing some small fans with snap > > thermostats > > > > to > > > > > control venting the compartment. Here again I'm asking for > > ideas. > > > > You > > > > > can vent out the back of the bay but it blows against the fuel > > > > tank. > > > > > That doesn't seem like a good idea. Or I could mount the fans > > on > > > > the > > > > > shelf and pipe it down through the bottom of the bay. But here > > > > again > > > > > hot air rises and this will be trying to draw it downwards. > > I'm > > > > not > > > > > even sure if this is needed. But it sounds like a lot of fun. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Kurt Horvath > > > > > 95 PT-42 WLWB > > > > > Fayetteville TN > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > PS. After the e-mail from Xantrex I am considering putting the > > > new > > > > > inveters back in the engine compartment. After all the old > > > > inverters > > > > > were there for 13 years?!?!?!?!?!?!? HELP! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
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06-10-2008, 02:41
Post: #7
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Xantrex RV 3012 M Inverter Installation, Reinventing the wheel!
I'm considering pulling the under-couch propane heater that doesn't work anyway and using it's vent to route the inverter hot air out.
On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 10:33 AM, bumpersbird <"bumpersbird@yahoo.com"> wrote:
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06-10-2008, 02:58
Post: #8
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Xantrex RV 3012 M Inverter Installation, Reinventing the wheel!
Well there you go, sounds like a good spot for the inverter.
Did you get a RC7 or RC7/GS control for the inverter? Kurt Horvath 95 PT-42 10AC --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Dorn Hetzel" wrote: > > I'm considering pulling the under-couch propane heater that doesn't work > anyway and using it's vent to route the inverter hot air out. > > On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 10:33 AM, bumpersbird wrote: > > > Dorn, > > > > Yes a cool, dry, clean place for the new unit. Within a few feet of > > the batterries. Sounds perfect, speaking of sound. Did you notice the > > large cooling fan on the back of the inverter. I wonder how loud that > > baby is when she spins up? You could vent that fan out of the cabinet > > somehow, maybe like a side wall mounted water heater. I am sure you > > will have to vent it somehow. The installation instructions warn > > about mounting in an enclosed space. > > > > > > Kurt Horvath > > 95 PT-42 > > 10AC > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > > "Dorn Hetzel" > > wrote: > > > > > > I'm absolutely planning on running the 3012 I bought while the > > engine is > > > running, to provide some amount of 120VAC while driving down the > > road. I'm > > > considering mounting it inside the coach in the cabinet behind the > > drivers > > > seat, since that would be within two or three feet of the > > batteries... > > > > > > Dorn Hetzel > > > 77FC35 > > > Hogansville, GA > > > > > > On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 12:22 AM, Gregory OConnor > > wrote: > > > > > > > The only time it is hot is when the engine is running. I learned > > > > with the refer mod that moving air with a fan has little cooling > > > > effect. replacing the air in the compartment with a fan has the > > most > > > > advantage. > > > > > > > > If you look at the inverter box that BB engineeres (BirdBrains) > > > > installed(in my '94), it floats in the battery compartment with > > air > > > > gap around the entire box. Even the material it is made of looks > > > > like it is a special (maybe, low heat conductive) product???????I > > > > wonder if the box by design cools with passing air as you drive or > > > > is there a better way to move the engine heated air away from the > > > > inverter box? I wonder if a scoop would move more air or hinder > > the > > > > existing path > > > > > > > > The "three enemies of inverters" Xantrex quote may be three > > enimies > > > > of an Inverter/Charger and not necessarly of just the stand alone > > > > inverter??????? . I wonder why BB speced units with remote > > > > batterychargers??? and why they moved the chargers so far away. Is > > > > it a heat issue with the chargers only??? . > > > > > > > > if Chargers-only have the heat issue (prompting the BirdBrain > > move), > > > > chargers are not worked while driving unless you drive with the > > > > genset running, so while driving heat is of no issue with inverter > > > > only???? It may be that you need to cut 110V input to the > > inverter/ > > > > chargers when the detroit is running (or InverterBox temp is too > > > > hot) to keep the chargers from lighting up if the genset is used. > > > > > > > > GregoryO'Connor > > > > 94pt in need of new inverter chargers. > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > > > > > > > > "bumpersbird" > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Gregg, > > > > > > > > > > Your probably right. > > > > > > > > > > I spoke with several people today, Xantrex support, Solar power > > > > techs > > > > > etc. after I posted my little progress report. It seems as it > > does > > > > > not matter how heavy the cable is after a certain lenght the DC > > > > side > > > > > decreases efficance for every foot past 7' and after about 12' > > it > > > > may > > > > > not function at all. I've learned there are three enemies of an > > > > > invertrer: 1- Moisture,2- Heat,3- Dirt > > > > > > > > > > I have been told that it can be done but the majority opinion is > > > > it's > > > > > better to keep the inverters as close to the batteries as > > > > possible, > > > > > even if they run hot and are in a dirty enviroment. By the way > > > > those > > > > > who think it's doable have not elaborated on how to do it. > > > > > > > > > > So I'm going to put the new units in the inverter box in the > > > > engine > > > > > compartment. It will be a tight fit. Moisture is not really a > > > > > problem, perhaps condensation on the rare occasion. I will vent > > it > > > > in > > > > > some fashion, probably a couple of 130 cfm computer fans. The > > fans > > > > > that I'm installing to cool the engine compartment should also > > > > help a > > > > > lot. I'm mounting 2 - 1650 CFM radiator fans on the right side > > > > grill. > > > > > The inverters are just a 10" or 12" away. I might place some > > sort > > > > of > > > > > air filter on the door in an attemp to keep the box interior > > > > somewhat > > > > > clean. > > > > > > > > > > I have 6 Lifline Batteries, they are only 24 month old and in > > time > > > > > switching to something else could happen, but these will have to > > > > die > > > > > first, especially at $600.00 each > > > > > > > > > > SSSSHHHHHH_________TTTTTTTT !!!!!! There I go again, trying to > > > > > reinvent the wheel. To be honest this was probably one of > > > > Bluebirds > > > > > bigger engineering screw ups. Then again maybe not the old > > > > inverters > > > > > were in there for 13 years. > > > > > > > > > > Hey on the bright side the bay with the BBQ is now metal lined, > > > > Looks > > > > > good and should be easier to clean. > > > > > > > > > > Kurt Horvath > > > > > 95 PT-42 WLWB > > > > > Fayetteville TN > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > > > > > > "Gregory OConnor" > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Kurt, > > > > > > Would it be less costly and with less issues to re vamp the > > > > heart > > > > > > inverter box area above the batteries to make it waterproof > > and > > > > may > > > > > > be even taller???? > > > > > > > > > > > > With L-16 I have more room under the inverter box as the top > > > > > > battery tray was removed. > > > > > > http://www.pbase.com/gregoryoc/image/86932717 > > > > > > > > > > > > you can also split the inverters up????????? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > GregoryO'Connor > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > > > > > > > > "bumpersbird" > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > The two inveters arrived in new sealed boxes. The RV7/GS > > > > > > controlers > > > > > > > arrived in as new condition, but they were in non mfg > > > > packaging. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > cost to date: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > $1370.00 inverters. > > > > > > > $ 305.00 controls. > > > > > > > $ 100.00 Sheet metal and aluminum angle for lining bay. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I decided that I will move the inverters into bay 3, right > > > > side > > > > > in > > > > > > > place of the electric grill, from the hot, dirty, and > > > > sometimes > > > > > > wet > > > > > > > inverter box in the engine compartment. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > After the renovations I will convert the old inverter box to > > > > hold > > > > > > 2 > > > > > > > more house batteries. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have removed the grill and I have lined the area with > > sheet > > > > > > metal, > > > > > > > and framed the opening with aluminum angle. I also replaced > > > > the > > > > > > > small angle iron mounting peices with wider aluminun braces > > > > and > > > > > > ran > > > > > > > an angle support under the shelf to help support the 120+ > > lbs. > > > > of > > > > > > > weight, Overkill! When the tool box is under the shelf it > > does > > > > > not > > > > > > > move or vibrate. I will post photos shortly. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > There is the question of how large the wires have to be that > > > > > > connect > > > > > > > the invertes to the batteries. It will take appox. 115' of > > > > cable > > > > > > to > > > > > > > get the job done and if you have bought heavy copper cable > > of > > > > > late > > > > > > > it's not cheep! It looks like around $10.00 a foot for 350 > > MCM > > > > > > > welding cable. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > It is 0.970 in diameter So I am having a bit of trouble > > > > figuring > > > > > > out > > > > > > > how or where to run these cables. Idealy inside the frame > > rail > > > > > > would > > > > > > > be my first choice, but after spending a few hours under the > > > > > > coach, > > > > > > > poking around, this will be impossible without getting the > > > > coach > > > > > > on a > > > > > > > lift. Anybody know what size cable is used on the coaches > > that > > > > > > have > > > > > > > factory installed inverters in the bays? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Here is a responce from Xantrex about the cable size. > > YIKES!!! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Dear Kurt Horvath, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > My wire size calculator says 1000 MCM, which I didn't even > > > > know > > > > > > > existed until just now. Is there any way you can shorten the > > > > run > > > > > > to > > > > > > > 12 feet, which would allow you to use 500 MCM? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > For all correspondence regarding this issue, please make > > sure > > > > to > > > > > > > leave the ID number [ref:00D3Wjr.500351Yfr:ref] in the > > subject > > > > > > line > > > > > > > or body of the email. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Allegra Sloman > > > > > > > Customer Service Operations > > > > > > > Xantrex Technology Inc. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Well there goes the farm 1000 MCM cable???? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > There are 2 large cables running along the top inside of the > > > > > wheel > > > > > > > well from the engine compartment into the holding tank bay > > and > > > > > > > forwards from there. This looks like the easy way to run the > > > > > > cables > > > > > > > but it is exposed to a lot road damage and wear and tear, > > not > > > > to > > > > > > > mention a tire coming apart. So it's not really a good > > choice. > > > > > Any > > > > > > > ideas on this option? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I am checking into STACKING the inverters. I really don't > > know > > > > > > much > > > > > > > about how this system works. Or what is required to change > > > > from > > > > > > the > > > > > > > two unit system to a STACKED system. I do know that it > > reduces > > > > > the > > > > > > > required cable lenght in half. Any ideas here would be > > helpful. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I also have to run the control wires and 120v wires from the > > > > > > engine > > > > > > > bay to the new invert bay. The control wires are also a > > small > > > > > > problem > > > > > > > the origonal wires are 6 wire data lines and the new control > > > > > wires > > > > > > > call for a 4 wire telephone line in place of the old data > > > > line. > > > > > > I'm > > > > > > > told that these can be used with a little effort. I haven't > > > > > gotten > > > > > > > that far into the project yet. I hope that I don't have to > > re- > > > > run > > > > > > the > > > > > > > control lines through the whole coach. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > One thing that bothers me is that the inverters are now > > > > > surrounded > > > > > > by > > > > > > > water pipes and tanks. Water pumps on one side and a small > > > > water > > > > > > tank > > > > > > > on the other with plumbing going over the top. i guess I'll > > > > just > > > > > > have > > > > > > > to keep an eye out for leaks. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I am considering installing some small fans with snap > > > > thermostats > > > > > > to > > > > > > > control venting the compartment. Here again I'm asking for > > > > ideas. > > > > > > You > > > > > > > can vent out the back of the bay but it blows against the > > fuel > > > > > > tank. > > > > > > > That doesn't seem like a good idea. Or I could mount the > > fans > > > > on > > > > > > the > > > > > > > shelf and pipe it down through the bottom of the bay. But > > here > > > > > > again > > > > > > > hot air rises and this will be trying to draw it downwards. > > > > I'm > > > > > > not > > > > > > > even sure if this is needed. But it sounds like a lot of > > fun. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Kurt Horvath > > > > > > > 95 PT-42 WLWB > > > > > > > Fayetteville TN > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > PS. After the e-mail from Xantrex I am considering putting > > the > > > > > new > > > > > > > inveters back in the engine compartment. After all the old > > > > > > inverters > > > > > > > were there for 13 years?!?!?!?!?!?!? HELP! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
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06-10-2008, 03:27
Post: #9
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Xantrex RV 3012 M Inverter Installation, Reinventing the wheel!
Kurt,
I'm puzzled -- you refer to the inverters as being in the engine compartment, but mine are in a metal box at the top of the house battery compartment, just in front of the engine compartment (curb side). (Two of the house batteries are nearby in the engine compartment, however.) The metal box has some vent holes in it (but no fan) -- and it does gather some dirt, but it's moderately insulated from the engine itself, so it's not quite as hot as if it were actually in the engine compartment proper. Are your inverters in a different location? (I note that each WL seems to have it's own unique features, even those of the same year...) Pete Masterson '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 El Sobrante CA "aeonix1@mac.com" On Jun 9, 2008, at 7:48 PM, bumpersbird wrote:
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06-10-2008, 04:39
Post: #10
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Xantrex RV 3012 M Inverter Installation, Reinventing the wheel!
Pete,
My Inverters and Batterries are in the same place as yours, but with the engine compartment being just inches away from the inverter/batt. bay and the the tranny being under/to the side of the inverter box the radiant heat warms everything up pretty good. Plus there is an opening of about 8" X 24" between the two compartments. Which allows the hot air to enter the inverter bay. So I have just gotten used to the idea that they are one in the same. Not completly accurate from a tech. point of veiw. I've been working towards getting the temps down in the engine compartment since last Aug. Hot bedroon syndrome. I'm not trying to cool the engine. Just everything that surrounds it. That's why I'm putting in some fans to vent the engine compartment. it's been done by several other guys and they seem to like the results. I have also considered exhaust blankets, some love them some hate them. It's said that the pipes can rust prematurly. I don't know about that but they seem like a good idea to me. I guess I'm just stuck on making my coach all that it can be. In the installation manual it goes into a great detail on installation enviroment. This from the Xantrex web site. Installation 2â2 975-0209-01-01 Choosing a Location Inverters are sophisticated electronic devices and should be treated accordingly. When selecting the operating environment for the inverter, don't think of it in the same terms as other equipment that works with it, such as batteries, diesel generators, motor generators, washing machines, and so on. It is a highly complex microprocessor-controlled device, similar in nature to stereo equipment, television sets, or computers. The use of conformal-coated circuit boards, plated copper bus bars, powder-coated metal components, and stainless steel fasteners improves tolerance to hostile environments. However, in a condensing environment (one in which humidity and/or temperature change causes water to form on components) all the ingredients for electrolysis are present: water, electricity and metals. In a condensing environment the life expectancy of the inverter is indeterminate and the warranty is voided. The inverter/charger should only be installed in a location that meets the following requirements: CAUTION Install the inverter in a dry, protected location away from sources of high temperature and moisture. Exposure to salt water is particularly destructive and potentially hazardous. Ventilated Do not operate the inverter/charger in a closed-in area or restrict ventilation in any way. The inverter/charger requires air circulation to maintain optimum operating temperature and provide best performance. If the unit has inadequate ventilation, it may shut down due to overheating. The air vented through the openings should also have a path to circulate away from the inverter/charger. Dry Do not allow water or other fluids to drip or splash on the inverter. Do not expose to rain, snow or water. Cool Normal air temperature should be between 32 °F and 122 °F (0 °C and 50 °C)âthe cooler the better within this range. Clearance Allow as much space around the inverter/charger as possible. Xantrex recommends that other objects and surfaces be at least 3 inches (76 mm) away from the ventilation openings for best performance. Safe Locate the inverter/charger away from battery in a separate well ventilated compartment. Do not install the inverter/charger in any compartment containing flammable gases or liquids like gasoline. Close to battery compartment The length and size of your DC cables will affect performance. Use the DC cables recommended in Table 2-2 on page 2â12. The unit should not be installed in the battery compartment due to the possible presence of explosive hydrogen gas from the batteries. Bla, Bla, Bla, Bla , You know the older I get the more I read the instructions. I should have realized from reading the instructions that the DC cables can't be 22' long. But no my two BB Gurus said it could be done. Well I guess you could re-power a bird with a turbine, and chuck in an afterburner for those steep hills, but it would plobably be tough on your toad:} What I'm really looking forward to is the next off the wall upgrade. F.L.I.R. Forward Looking Infrared. I think I will go with the PathFindIR unit small easy to install and at a low price point about $3700.00 installed down in Houston FLIR Systems, Inc. 70 Castilian Drive Goleta, CA 93117 Phone: 1-877-773-FLIR (3547) http://www.corebyindigo.com http://www.flir.com Gregg Conner once posted, " If it took a leaf blower to cool the fridge I'd use it." I agree. What ever it takes to make it work, make it better, make more fun. I'd really like to take that small water tank between bay two --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson wrote: > > Kurt, > > I'm puzzled -- you refer to the inverters as being in the engine > compartment, but mine are in a metal box at the top of the house > battery compartment, just in front of the engine compartment (curb > side). (Two of the house batteries are nearby in the engine > compartment, however.) The metal box has some vent holes in it (but > no fan) -- and it does gather some dirt, but it's moderately > insulated from the engine itself, so it's not quite as hot as if it > were actually in the engine compartment proper. > > Are your inverters in a different location? (I note that each WL > seems to have it's own unique features, even those of the same year...) > > Pete Masterson > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 > El Sobrante CA > aeonix1@... > > > > On Jun 9, 2008, at 7:48 PM, bumpersbird wrote: > > > Gregg, > > > > Your probably right. > > > > I spoke with several people today, Xantrex support, Solar power techs > > etc. after I posted my little progress report. It seems as it does > > not matter how heavy the cable is after a certain lenght the DC side > > decreases efficance for every foot past 7' and after about 12' it may > > not function at all. I've learned there are three enemies of an > > invertrer: 1- Moisture,2- Heat,3- Dirt > > > > I have been told that it can be done but the majority opinion is it's > > better to keep the inverters as close to the batteries as possible, > > even if they run hot and are in a dirty enviroment. By the way those > > who think it's doable have not elaborated on how to do it. > > > > So I'm going to put the new units in the inverter box in the engine > > compartment. It will be a tight fit. Moisture is not really a > > problem, perhaps condensation on the rare occasion. I will vent it in > > some fashion, probably a couple of 130 cfm computer fans. The fans > > that I'm installing to cool the engine compartment should also help a > > lot. I'm mounting 2 - 1650 CFM radiator fans on the right side grill. > > The inverters are just a 10" or 12" away. I might place some sort of > > air filter on the door in an attemp to keep the box interior somewhat > > clean. <snip> > |
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