Door repairs

[Ryan Wright]

Two questions,

1. Where can I get a new door seal? Mine is old and falling apart.

2. Any tips on getting the remote lock to work reliably? Mine works
sporadically. Sometimes it's fine, other times it just refuses. Can't
be the switch because both the dash switches and the bedroom switch
work (or don't) at the same time. I want to install a keyless entry,
but need to make the door lock work reliably first.

Thank you,

-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92

[Curt Sprenger]

Re. #1 door seal...I got this info. from Rob Robinson...

The product is Door and Window Thermal Blend Rubber Weatherseal for
gaps 1/8" to 3/8". silicon blend and it is called the Wave Profile. Lowe's carries it.


.

On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 5:54 PM, Ryan Wright <"ryanpwright@gmail.com"> wrote:

Two questions,



1. Where can I get a new door seal? Mine is old and falling apart.



2. Any tips on getting the remote lock to work reliably? Mine works

sporadically. Sometimes it's fine, other times it just refuses. Can't

be the switch because both the dash switches and the bedroom switch

work (or don't) at the same time. I want to install a keyless entry,

but need to make the door lock work reliably first.



Thank you,



-Ryan

'86 PT-40 8V92

--
Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, CA

[Leroy Eckert]

As usual I am on the outside looking in on the lock deal but that is ok. I do not use mine even though it works because I am very catastrophic failure or natural disaster superstitious. I have a home fire escape plan which has a basement in a two story home with two exit doors other than the garage. In addition I have 6 smoke detectors.
In a building in case of fire do not use the elevator use the stairs.
In the bus, in case of fire the auto remote lock will not work. There is only one way out except for the windows and the sooner you are out the better. I keep a mini sledge in the bedroom just in case, to hell with depending on the windows to slide even though they do. You just cannot be to careful.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40 Royale
Dahlonega, GA
Smoke N Mirrors
Whacko and hear voices from time to time.

Ryan Wright wrote:

Two questions,

1. Where can I get a new door seal? Mine is old and falling apart.

2. Any tips on getting the remote lock to work reliably? Mine works
sporadically. Sometimes it's fine, other times it just refuses. Can't
be the switch because both the dash switches and the bedroom switch
work (or don't) at the same time. I want to install a keyless entry,
but need to make the door lock work reliably first.

Thank you,

-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92

[Pete Masterson]

On Jun 10, 2008, at 5:54 PM, Ryan Wright wrote:

Two questions,

1. Where can I get a new door seal? Mine is old and falling apart.

I found a suitable rubber weather strip at my local hardware store. I've re-sealed my front door, and all my basement compartment doors. You may need to shop around at home centers and/or hardware stores to find exactly the right profile weather strip.

2. Any tips on getting the remote lock to work reliably? Mine works

sporadically. Sometimes it's fine, other times it just refuses. Can't

be the switch because both the dash switches and the bedroom switch

work (or don't) at the same time. I want to install a keyless entry,

but need to make the door lock work reliably first.

First fix the weather stripping as that may affect the alignment. I find that my lock will 'hang' if the door isn't tightly latched. If there's any friction on the dead bolt (the one with the remote solenoid) then it won't lock or unlock. When the dead bolt is lined up correctly with the "hole" then it works reliably. So, try to check the alignment and ensure that everything lines up right. When it's mis-aligned, then I have to turn it manually, (most frequently, I forget that it's locked and I try to open the door. That releases the 'automotive' latch, but then binds the dead bolt. Then I have to pull (or push) in (depending on what side of the door I'm on) so that the solenoid can move the dead bolt. 

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

[Rob Robinson]

Ryan your sporadic lock may be a loose wire in the loom that goes from the main bus body through the flexible connection to the door. I have had to repair a broken wire there several times. Sometimes the wind will whip the door and overextend this flexible connection.

2008/6/10 Ryan Wright <"ryanpwright@gmail.com">:

Two questions,

1. Where can I get a new door seal? Mine is old and falling apart.

2. Any tips on getting the remote lock to work reliably? Mine works
sporadically. Sometimes it's fine, other times it just refuses. Can't

be the switch because both the dash switches and the bedroom switch
work (or don't) at the same time. I want to install a keyless entry,
but need to make the door lock work reliably first.

Thank you,


-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92

--
Rob, Sue & Merlin Robinson

94 WLWB

[Paul Carver]

I'll be interested in the answer to "door seals" as mine are
deteriorating also. But I think I have the answer to
your "intermittent door lock operation". There are "brushes or
contacts" inside the hinge cover material (usually leather or
naugahyde) that wear, get dirty, or just pinch the cover material
between them. You can remove one side of the cover material with a
series of sheet metal screws and clean, adjust, or replace the
contacts. The trick is to get the material to fold back consistently
without causing interference in the re-assembly process.
Paul, '93 WLWB

[Ryan Wright]

Hi Leroy,

It's just a regular old deadbolt lock with an electric solenoid
attached to it. There is a normal deadbolt knob on the inside that
works perfectly if the electrics have failed. So when I need to exit
the coach, I can just turn the deadbolt by hand - which is exactly
what I'm doing now, because the electrics of mine aren't working
right.

All I want to do is add a remote entry trigger to the same deadbolt,
so I can lock and unlock it from outside the bus without using the
key. This doesn't change anything in terms of exit safety; the
original deadbolt is still there, along with it's manual knob.

Appreciate the replies. I'll go check out that door seal from Lowe's,
and will see if I can't take the door apart and trace out the wiring
on the lock. Thanks everyone.

-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92

On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 6:20 PM, Leroy Eckert wrote:
> In the bus, in case of fire the auto remote lock will not work. There is
> only one way out except for the windows and the sooner you are out the
> better. I keep a mini sledge in the bedroom just in case, to hell with
> depending on the windows to slide even though they do. You just cannot be to
> careful.
>

[Gregory OConnor]

Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push on the door to
line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as I cant see or
feel what is going on in the jamb. I think someone replaced the
seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber product. fat seals endup
causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn on the
lock. One other issue is that the door on my 94 is alumnium and
swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some things to
consider with your project

GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
wrote:
>
> Hi Leroy,
>
> It's just a regular old deadbolt lock with an electric solenoid
> attached to it. There is a normal deadbolt knob on the inside that
> works perfectly if the electrics have failed. So when I need to
exit
> the coach, I can just turn the deadbolt by hand - which is exactly
> what I'm doing now, because the electrics of mine aren't working
> right.
>
> All I want to do is add a remote entry trigger to the same
deadbolt,
> so I can lock and unlock it from outside the bus without using the
> key. This doesn't change anything in terms of exit safety; the
> original deadbolt is still there, along with it's manual knob.
>
> Appreciate the replies. I'll go check out that door seal from
Lowe's,
> and will see if I can't take the door apart and trace out the
wiring
> on the lock. Thanks everyone.
>
> -Ryan
> '86 PT-40 8V92
>
> On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 6:20 PM, Leroy Eckert
wrote:
> > In the bus, in case of fire the auto remote lock will not work.
There is
> > only one way out except for the windows and the sooner you are
out the
> > better. I keep a mini sledge in the bedroom just in case, to
hell with
> > depending on the windows to slide even though they do. You just
cannot be to
> > careful.
> >
>

[brad barton]

Greg, I have the same problem in my 2000.

BradBarton00LXiDFW bbartonwx@...

---

To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
From: Gregoryoc@...
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 03:22:58 +0000
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push on the door to
line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as I cant see or
feel what is going on in the jamb. I think someone replaced the
seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber product. fat seals endup
causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn on the
lock. One other issue is that the door on my 94 is alumnium and
swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some things to
consider with your project

GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com", "Ryan Wright"
...> wrote:
>
> Hi Leroy,
>
> It's just a regular old deadbolt lock with an electric solenoid
> attached to it. There is a normal deadbolt knob on the inside that
> works perfectly if the electrics have failed. So when I need to
exit
> the coach, I can just turn the deadbolt by hand - which is exactly
> what I'm doing now, because the electrics of mine aren't working
> right.
>
> All I want to do is add a remote entry trigger to the same
deadbolt,
> so I can lock and unlock it from outside the bus without using the
> key. This doesn't change anything in terms of exit safety; the
> original deadbolt is still there, along with it's manual knob.
>
> Appreciate the replies. I'll go check out that door seal from
Lowe's,
> and will see if I can't take the door apart and trace out the
wiring
> on the lock. Thanks everyone.
>
> -Ryan
> '86 PT-40 8V92
>
> On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 6:20 PM, Leroy Eckert ...>
wrote:
> > In the bus, in case of fire the auto remote lock will not work.
There is
> > only one way out except for the windows and the sooner you are
out the
> > better. I keep a mini sledge in the bedroom just in case, to
hell with
> > depending on the windows to slide even though they do. You just
cannot be to
> > careful.
> >
>

---

Enjoy 5 GB of free, password-protected online storage. Get Windows Live SkyDrive.

[Pete Masterson]

I'll note that the door on my coach must be shut with authority (like you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch properly. This was the situation with the original weather stripping and with the weather stripping I installed. Once the automotive latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt lines up properly. 

If you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then when the automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead bolt is sufficient that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on which side of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push on the door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the solenoid will through the bolt.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push on the door to 

line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as I cant see or 

feel what is going on in the jamb.  I think someone replaced the 

seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product. fat seals endup 

causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn on the 

lock.  One other issue is that the door on my 94 is alumnium and 

swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some things to 

consider with your project