Maiden Voyage Complete!!!

[Wallace Craig]

Wallace Craig 95 WLWB 42 Azle, Texas


--- On Mon, 6/16/08, coreyg67 wrote:

> From: coreyg67
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Maiden Voyage Complete!!!
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, June 16, 2008, 10:22 PM
> Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the
> front of the coach, replaced both
> fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the
> sensors on the bay doors, best I
> can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the
> ground had broken, but after fixing
> ground, no luck still.
> Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was
> disconnected, all seems
> proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather
> uncomfortable walking in and sleeping
> in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need
> to figure this out.
>
> I will begin to list some of the other problems.
>
> 1. no key for safe,
> 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door,
> although I can hear it trying.
> 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside
> compartment, although I can hear it
> trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the
> bays
> 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then
> other times it wont engage. It
> will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake
> brake
> 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all
> the way around, rope light has
> several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
> 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a
> broken valve, so I cant get good
> pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to
> pressurize, by rigging the valve
> shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
> 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little
> afraid to mess something up.
>
>
> I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is
> familiar with Bluebirds,
> preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the
> entire coach with me and help with
> all my little questions.
>
> BTW, this sight was very useful in my quest to find the
> right bird. I check here frequently
> just to learn all the ins and outs of all the different
> models. Thank you so much for all
> the great help and advice!!!!
>
> Corey
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, jim riordan
> wrote:
> >
> > 2 thermosatat near the galley should run that fan!
> >
> > 1 sounds like no power
> > Jim Riordan
> > coreyg67 wrote:
> > Well, our new to us 96' WLWB is safe at
> home. We flew to Houston yesterday
> morning
> > and drove to Wimberley, then came on home today.
> >
> > What a pleasant experience this has been for us. The
> coach was in every bit as good of
> > shape as described, better than I expected. We drove a
> little over 500miles, and truely
> > made the trip without a glitch.
> >
> > Now for my first questions, I have the same door
> problems as addressed in the door
> seal
> > thread, so I'm going to try the remedies
> previously posted before asking additional
> > questions.
> >
> > i am having two problems,
> >
> > 1. I cant get the leveling system to power up, so I
> have no ability to level the coach. I'm
> > not familiar with using jacks, as our last coach used
> the air to level, but I cant get a
> light
> > to flicker on the control pad, so I don't know
> where to go from there.
> >
> > 2. There is a kool o matic fan in the galley, the fan
> runs all the time, and i absolutely
> > cant find a switch or rheostat to control the fan. So
> currently it runs all the time and
> like
> > a dummy, I don't know where to turn it off.
> >
> > I have several smaller issues, but I will address
> these 1 by 1 to make sure I get
> > everything completed before taking on the next task.
> >
> > Corey,
> > No longer a Wannabe!!!
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

[Wallace Craig]

Corey, this is the first time that I knew that you are in the DFW area. Where
exactly are you.

The man you want is Ralph Fullenweider who lives in Duncan, Okla and is an
excellent BB technician. He is factory certified and very fair in pricing.
See his e-mail as my cc; his home phone is 580 252-7694 and he usually can come
to you. Everyone in the BB family knows him.

Wallace Craig 95 WLWB 42 Azle, Texas


--- On Mon, 6/16/08, coreyg67 wrote:

> From: coreyg67
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Maiden Voyage Complete!!!
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, June 16, 2008, 10:22 PM
> Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the
> front of the coach, replaced both
> fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the
> sensors on the bay doors, best I
> can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the
> ground had broken, but after fixing
> ground, no luck still.
> Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was
> disconnected, all seems
> proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather
> uncomfortable walking in and sleeping
> in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need
> to figure this out.
>
> I will begin to list some of the other problems.
>
> 1. no key for safe,
> 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door,
> although I can hear it trying.
> 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside
> compartment, although I can hear it
> trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the
> bays
> 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then
> other times it wont engage. It
> will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake
> brake
> 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all
> the way around, rope light has
> several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
> 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a
> broken valve, so I cant get good
> pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to
> pressurize, by rigging the valve
> shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
> 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little
> afraid to mess something up.
>
>
> I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is
> familiar with Bluebirds,
> preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the
> entire coach with me and help with
> all my little questions.
>
> BTW, this sight was very useful in my quest to find the
> right bird. I check here frequently
> just to learn all the ins and outs of all the different
> models. Thank you so much for all
> the great help and advice!!!!
>
> Corey
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, jim riordan
> wrote:
> >
> > 2 thermosatat near the galley should run that fan!
> >
> > 1 sounds like no power
> > Jim Riordan
> > coreyg67 wrote:
> > Well, our new to us 96' WLWB is safe at
> home. We flew to Houston yesterday
> morning
> > and drove to Wimberley, then came on home today.
> >
> > What a pleasant experience this has been for us. The
> coach was in every bit as good of
> > shape as described, better than I expected. We drove a
> little over 500miles, and truely
> > made the trip without a glitch.
> >
> > Now for my first questions, I have the same door
> problems as addressed in the door
> seal
> > thread, so I'm going to try the remedies
> previously posted before asking additional
> > questions.
> >
> > i am having two problems,
> >
> > 1. I cant get the leveling system to power up, so I
> have no ability to level the coach. I'm
> > not familiar with using jacks, as our last coach used
> the air to level, but I cant get a
> light
> > to flicker on the control pad, so I don't know
> where to go from there.
> >
> > 2. There is a kool o matic fan in the galley, the fan
> runs all the time, and i absolutely
> > cant find a switch or rheostat to control the fan. So
> currently it runs all the time and
> like
> > a dummy, I don't know where to turn it off.
> >
> > I have several smaller issues, but I will address
> these 1 by 1 to make sure I get
> > everything completed before taking on the next task.
> >
> > Corey,
> > No longer a Wannabe!!!
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

[Mike McMahan]

Corey, I did not realize that you were in Dallas. I live in Waco
and own a 96 and have had several other Birds. While I am not in the
same league with Ralph I would be happy to spend an afternoon or
evening with you going over the coach and its systems. There are
several other knowledgeble owners in the Dallas area who I am sure
would be willing to help. Mike McMahan 96 42' Wanderlodge

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig
wrote:
>
>
>
> Wallace Craig 95 WLWB 42 Azle, Texas
>
>
> --- On Mon, 6/16/08, coreyg67 wrote:
>
> > From: coreyg67
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Maiden Voyage Complete!!!
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Monday, June 16, 2008, 10:22 PM
> > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the
> > front of the coach, replaced both
> > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the
> > sensors on the bay doors, best I
> > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the
> > ground had broken, but after fixing
> > ground, no luck still.
> > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was
> > disconnected, all seems
> > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather
> > uncomfortable walking in and sleeping
> > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need
> > to figure this out.
> >
> > I will begin to list some of the other problems.
> >
> > 1. no key for safe,
> > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door,
> > although I can hear it trying.
> > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside
> > compartment, although I can hear it
> > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the
> > bays
> > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then
> > other times it wont engage. It
> > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake
> > brake
> > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all
> > the way around, rope light has
> > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
> > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a
> > broken valve, so I cant get good
> > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to
> > pressurize, by rigging the valve
> > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
> > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little
> > afraid to mess something up.
> >
> >
> > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is
> > familiar with Bluebirds,
> > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the
> > entire coach with me and help with
> > all my little questions.
> >
> > BTW, this sight was very useful in my quest to find the
> > right bird. I check here frequently
> > just to learn all the ins and outs of all the different
> > models. Thank you so much for all
> > the great help and advice!!!!
> >
> > Corey
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, jim riordan
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > 2 thermosatat near the galley should run that fan!
> > >
> > > 1 sounds like no power
> > > Jim Riordan
> > > coreyg67 wrote:
> > > Well, our new to us 96' WLWB is safe at
> > home. We flew to Houston yesterday
> > morning
> > > and drove to Wimberley, then came on home today.
> > >
> > > What a pleasant experience this has been for us. The
> > coach was in every bit as good of
> > > shape as described, better than I expected. We drove a
> > little over 500miles, and truely
> > > made the trip without a glitch.
> > >
> > > Now for my first questions, I have the same door
> > problems as addressed in the door
> > seal
> > > thread, so I'm going to try the remedies
> > previously posted before asking additional
> > > questions.
> > >
> > > i am having two problems,
> > >
> > > 1. I cant get the leveling system to power up, so I
> > have no ability to level the coach. I'm
> > > not familiar with using jacks, as our last coach used
> > the air to level, but I cant get a
> > light
> > > to flicker on the control pad, so I don't know
> > where to go from there.
> > >
> > > 2. There is a kool o matic fan in the galley, the fan
> > runs all the time, and i absolutely
> > > cant find a switch or rheostat to control the fan. So
> > currently it runs all the time and
> > like
> > > a dummy, I don't know where to turn it off.
> > >
> > > I have several smaller issues, but I will address
> > these 1 by 1 to make sure I get
> > > everything completed before taking on the next task.
> > >
> > > Corey,
> > > No longer a Wannabe!!!
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

[Curt Sprenger]

Call HWH in Moscow, Iowa for your jack problem(s).

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 6:17 AM, Mike McMahan <"mmcmahan@hot.rr.com"> wrote:

Corey, I did not realize that you were in Dallas. I live in Waco

and own a 96 and have had several other Birds. While I am not in the

same league with Ralph I would be happy to spend an afternoon or

evening with you going over the coach and its systems. There are

several other knowledgeble owners in the Dallas area who I am sure

would be willing to help. Mike McMahan 96 42' Wanderlodge



--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", Wallace Craig

wrote:

>

>

>

> Wallace Craig 95 WLWB 42 Azle, Texas

>

>

> --- On Mon, 6/16/08, coreyg67 wrote:

>

> > From: coreyg67

> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Maiden Voyage Complete!!!

> > To: "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com"

> > Date: Monday, June 16, 2008, 10:22 PM

> > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the

> > front of the coach, replaced both

> > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the

> > sensors on the bay doors, best I

> > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the

> > ground had broken, but after fixing

> > ground, no luck still.

> > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was

> > disconnected, all seems

> > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather

> > uncomfortable walking in and sleeping

> > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need

> > to figure this out.

> >

> > I will begin to list some of the other problems.

> >

> > 1. no key for safe,

> > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door,

> > although I can hear it trying.

> > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside

> > compartment, although I can hear it

> > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the

> > bays

> > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great

> > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then

> > other times it wont engage. It

> > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake

> > brake

> > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all

> > the way around, rope light has

> > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing

> > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a

> > broken valve, so I cant get good

> > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to

> > pressurize, by rigging the valve

> > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.

> > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little

> > afraid to mess something up.

> >

> >

> > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is

> > familiar with Bluebirds,

> > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the

> > entire coach with me and help with

> > all my little questions.

> >

> > BTW, this sight was very useful in my quest to find the

> > right bird. I check here frequently

> > just to learn all the ins and outs of all the different

> > models. Thank you so much for all

> > the great help and advice!!!!

> >

> > Corey

> >

> >

> > --- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", jim riordan

> > wrote:

> > >

> > > 2 thermosatat near the galley should run that fan!

> > >

> > > 1 sounds like no power

> > > Jim Riordan

> > > coreyg67 wrote:

> > > Well, our new to us 96' WLWB is safe at

> > home. We flew to Houston yesterday

> > morning

> > > and drove to Wimberley, then came on home today.

> > >

> > > What a pleasant experience this has been for us. The

> > coach was in every bit as good of

> > > shape as described, better than I expected. We drove a

> > little over 500miles, and truely

> > > made the trip without a glitch.

> > >

> > > Now for my first questions, I have the same door

> > problems as addressed in the door

> > seal

> > > thread, so I'm going to try the remedies

> > previously posted before asking additional

> > > questions.

> > >

> > > i am having two problems,

> > >

> > > 1. I cant get the leveling system to power up, so I

> > have no ability to level the coach. I'm

> > > not familiar with using jacks, as our last coach used

> > the air to level, but I cant get a

> > light

> > > to flicker on the control pad, so I don't know

> > where to go from there.

> > >

> > > 2. There is a kool o matic fan in the galley, the fan

> > runs all the time, and i absolutely

> > > cant find a switch or rheostat to control the fan. So

> > currently it runs all the time and

> > like

> > > a dummy, I don't know where to turn it off.

> > >

> > > I have several smaller issues, but I will address

> > these 1 by 1 to make sure I get

> > > everything completed before taking on the next task.

> > >

> > > Corey,

> > > No longer a Wannabe!!!

> > >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > ------------------------------------

> >

> > Yahoo! Groups Links

> >

> >

> >

>

--
Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, CA

[Pete Masterson]

On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:

Still no luck on the levelers.  I pulled the panel from the front of the coach, replaced both 

fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck.  Checked all the sensors on the bay doors, best I 

can tell, all are functioning.  I did find two that the ground had broken, but after fixing 

ground, no luck still.  

Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was disconnected, all seems 

proper.  So now I'm starting to worry.  It is rather uncomfortable walking in and sleeping 

in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need to figure this out.

I will begin to list some of the other problems. 

1. no key for safe,

Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith to get in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was famously used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.

2. door lock button for front door will not lock door, although I can hear it trying.

Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the least amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose inside the door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that. Be sure the door is tightly closed when you try.

3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside compartment, although I can hear it 

trying to.  This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays

See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The key to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach. 

I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside cover on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then clean and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if you can hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no sound, then there might be a loose wire.

The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was working) and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6 and 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately press "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work). 

4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great

?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told by the previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".

5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other times it wont engage.  It 

will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake

Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my Jake brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is malfunctioning. During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on the system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the DDEC unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault in the DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high settings). The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.

6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all the way around, rope light has 

several burned out bulbs, needs replacing

Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok, but the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the light and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced. I mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night) and once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.

7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a broken valve, so I cant get good 

pressure from the fresh water system.  I did get it to pressurize, by rigging the valve 

shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.

You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water dump valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual slide valve behind the tall door.

My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable speed pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion tank. I re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.

I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com to transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex tubing and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread) fitting -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-plumb the drain valve.

8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little afraid to mess something up.

Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already working. To use it:

turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash. That allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the 2000 watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore power.

Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-intuitive: turn on AC for heat.)

Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a higher temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out of various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa. There are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the fans may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the basement and a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40 degrees) on the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in freezing temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep the plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.

There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls an electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot (hydronic) heat. 

The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the side-island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat). The various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan noise, depending.

You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you should hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below the A-H that will get quite warm when the burner is running.

The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat for domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power or on the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if there's no electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you never run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).

The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric element can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at 16 gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner running.

When you're on the road,  the A-H gets heat from the engine cooling system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.

You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as I recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician. The A-H should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some other burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain more about the care and operation of the unit.

Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow container) on the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is properly filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two years I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note that there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do not use regular automotive coolant.)

The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if I recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not a big drain on your fuel.

I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is familiar with Bluebirds, 

preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire coach with me and help with 

all my little questions.

Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several folks who can help you.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

[Pete Masterson]

Good advice! They were very helpful when I had a couple of questions early-on...

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 17, 2008, at 7:21 AM, Curt Sprenger wrote:

Call HWH in Moscow, Iowa for your jack problem(s). 

[Pete Masterson]

On Jun 17, 2008, at 10:33 AM, Pete Masterson wrote:

<snip>

8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little afraid to mess something up.

Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already working. To use it:

turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash. That allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the 2000 watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore power.

Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-intuitive: turn on AC for heat.)

<snip>

I forgot, set the right hand switch on the Dometic thermostats to "gas heat", then adjust the temperature to have the heat come on. (Gas heat is the bottom position on my thermostats. The top position is the normal AC setting) Leave the fan switch on "auto."

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

[coreyg67]

More questions.

I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position, so every time
we turn
right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to repairing the
guides, or are
they a replace only type item?

I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs for the coach.
I have
thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find any light
bulb info.
Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights? I need just
about every
bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in between. I'm
hoping to
get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once rather than
make 6
trips to the automotive supply house.

Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and get multiple
keys to
the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going to spend the
afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread that is going
around. I
noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I figure a good
cleaning
is in order.

Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be? I am only getting
17psi
on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be closer to
24-25psi.

Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!

Corey and Jenni Graham
1996 PT 42'
Prosper,TX


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson wrote:
>
>
> On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:
>
> > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the front
> > of the coach, replaced both
> > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the sensors on
> > the bay doors, best I
> > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the ground had
> > broken, but after fixing
> > ground, no luck still.
> > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was
> > disconnected, all seems
> > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather uncomfortable
> > walking in and sleeping
> > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need to
> > figure this out.
> >
> > I will begin to list some of the other problems.
> >
> > 1. no key for safe,
>
> Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith to get
> in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was famously
> used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.
>
> > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door, although I
> > can hear it trying.
>
> Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The
> solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the least
> amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose inside the
> door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that. Be
> sure the door is tightly closed when you try.
>
> > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside compartment,
> > although I can hear it
> > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays
>
> See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The key
> to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.
>
> I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside cover
> on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then clean
> and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if you can
> hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no sound,
> then there might be a loose wire.
>
> The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was working)
> and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6 and
> 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately press
> "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).
>
> > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told by the
> previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".
>
> > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other times
> > it wont engage. It
> > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake
>
> Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my Jake
> brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is malfunctioning.
> During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on the
> system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the DDEC
> unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault in the
> DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high settings).
> The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.
>
> > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all the way
> > around, rope light has
> > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
>
> Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok, but
> the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the light
> and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are
> probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced. I
> mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night) and
> once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.
>
> > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a broken
> > valve, so I cant get good
> > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to pressurize,
> > by rigging the valve
> > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
>
> You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water dump
> valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual slide
> valve behind the tall door.
>
> My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable speed
> pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion tank. I
> re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.
>
> I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com to
> transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex tubing
> and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread) fitting
> -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-plumb the
> drain valve.
>
> > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little afraid
> > to mess something up.
> >
> Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already working.
> To use it:
> turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash. That
> allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the 2000
> watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore power.
>
> Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-intuitive:
> turn on AC for heat.)
>
> Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a higher
> temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out of
> various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa. There
> are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the fans
> may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the basement and
> a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40 degrees) on
> the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in freezing
> temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep the
> plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.
>
> There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls an
> electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot
> (hydronic) heat.
>
> The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the side-
> island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat). The
> various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan noise,
> depending.
>
> You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you should
> hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below the A-H
> that will get quite warm when the burner is running.
>
> The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat for
> domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power or on
> the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if there's no
> electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you never
> run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).
>
> The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric element
> can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at 16
> gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner running.
>
> When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine cooling
> system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.
>
> You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as I
> recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician. The A-H
> should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some other
> burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain more
> about the care and operation of the unit.
>
> Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow container) on
> the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is properly
> filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious
> (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two years
> I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional
> coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note that
> there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do not
> use regular automotive coolant.)
>
> The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if I
> recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not a big
> drain on your fuel.
>
> >
> > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is familiar
> > with Bluebirds,
> > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire coach
> > with me and help with
> > all my little questions.
>
> Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several folks who
> can help you.
>
> Pete Masterson
> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> El Sobrante CA
> aeonix1@...
>

[Pete Masterson]

Many of the drawers have latches at the back edge. They're spring loaded, and if you're "indecisive" about completely shutting the drawer, the spring will snap shut and the latch won't hold -- because the spring part is already closed. You can often see this as the drawer won't quiiiiite be closed. There are two types, a smaller black plastic -- you can see them on most of the cabinet doors -- and a larger, heavier silver metal type. Both can be twitchy, but the larger metal ones can be the most troublesome.

I have one large drawer in the galley that has two of those metal catches. One of them always gets snapped shut. It's annoying to have to re-set it as you need to pull the drawer all the way out, reach back with strong fingers or some sort of hook, then pull the spring latch forward. Dear wife manages to push the wide drawer in on one side, causing the other latch to miss, leaving that wide drawer half-latched and very slightly cattywampus. 

You probably won't find any bulb info in the manuals. Many of the 12 v. bulbs in closets are standard "dome light" types from an auto parts store. The peanut, high intensity bulbs are similar to ones used in low-voltage under cabinet systems. Be _very_ careful you don't get a too-high wattage replacement. They're brighter (nice) but hotter (not at all nice) and they can burn out the fixture and wires. There should be numbers on the bulb (or someone else may have them). Somewhere in the archives of the list was a discussion of those bulbs and a reference to a place online that has the right ones.

Actually 215 for the oil isn't unusual. About 200, more or less, is pretty normal, but 210 some of the time isn't unusual and 215-220 on most grades. The book claims 250 as the max, but I generally start getting concerned at 225 and will pull over to cool down a bit at 230 if I have any distance to go on a grade left. I note that on heavy grades the oil temp tends to stabilize between 225 and 230 a lot of the time.

Can't help you with the boost value. Previous owner installed a "waste gate" turbo charger that gives a little more boost than the OEM model, so my figures won't correspond. I have a note somewhere that the max was something in the mid 20s -- but I don't recall the number and the waste gate prevents any overboost, so I rarely watch the boost gauge much. EGT is important. You should see 600 under heavy load and 800 or more can occur.  You don't want to get much over 1000 and not for very long. When you cool down, before shutting down, be sure to let the engine run for 3 or 4 minutes to let the turbo spin down and let the temperatures cool down so you don't get any hot spots. If you've been traveling at low speed for 3 or 4 miles (as if you've come into city traffic), then the cool down idle can be cut to a minute or so. I generally look at the oil temp gauge and if it's under 200, (and the turbo has had a chance to slow down) then I'll shut down.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 19, 2008, at 5:35 PM, coreyg67 wrote:

More questions.

I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position, so every time we turn 

right, the drawers come flying open.  Is there any trick to repairing the guides, or are 

they a replace only type item?  

I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs for the coach.  I have 

thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find any light bulb info.  

Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights?  I need just about every 

bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in between.  I'm hoping to 

get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once rather than make 6 

trips to the automotive supply house.

Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and get multiple keys to 

the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going to spend the 

afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread that is going around.  I 

noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I figure a good cleaning 

is in order.

Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be?  I am only getting 17psi 

on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be closer to 24-25psi.

Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!

Corey and Jenni Graham

1996 PT 42'

Prosper,TX

<snip>

[bumpersbird]

Corey,

Here is a good place to get the little halogen bulbs you need.

Any wattage will fit these pucks but do not go over 10watts or you'll
burn stuff up.

This and tons of helpful stuff is in the FILES, LINKS, and DATABASE
Pages.

Take some time and surf through this stuff it will help with the
shock of how complex your new baby really is.

Some of us like to get down and dirty and do it ourselves and others
have only one tool a little 2 X 3 1/4 plastic card. Which ever you
choose get ready to use them a lot.

Kurt Horvath
Indulgance
95 PT-42 WLWB
10AC




Definitive answer to Halogen bulb size in Overhead Reading Lights

Message #32979

The fixture was manufactured by C I in Riverside Ca. Model #F33-9102
It takes a 12V-10Watt/T3 Bi-Pin for RV use only.

I found the bulbs at a reasonable price at 1000bulbs.com
http://www.1000bulbs.com/12-Volt-G4-Base...enon/5987/

These bulbs are round at the end, unlike the T-4 which has a small tip
on it.

Here is an alternative L.E.D replacement for the halogen, they will
fit
in the puck and look like a good idea although they are expensive.
http://www.prudentrver.com/ledlamps.html

Kurt Horvath
95 PT-42 WLWB