Maiden Voyage Complete!!!

[Curt Sprenger]

Drawer CATCHES...contact Stephen Birtles. If the CATCHES are the ones that a friend made up for us...I sent the inventory to Stephen Birtles for him to market as I did not want to deal with distributing them.

Replacement Bulbs...contact Stephen Birtles.


215 oil temp if fine, actually very good if the oil temp gauge is right on. Coolant temp. should be about 180/185. Radiator cleaning is a good thing to do.

Full Power Boost...about 20 +/- is good. The DDEC engines might be different than my non DDEC. I can get 20 +/-. More important is to watch the boost temp. gauge.

On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 5:35 PM, coreyg67 <"corey@cwgraham.com"> wrote:

More questions.



I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position, so every time we turn

right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to repairing the guides, or are

they a replace only type item?



I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs for the coach. I have

thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find any light bulb info.

Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights? I need just about every

bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in between. I'm hoping to

get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once rather than make 6

trips to the automotive supply house.



Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and get multiple keys to

the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going to spend the

afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread that is going around. I

noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I figure a good cleaning

is in order.



Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be? I am only getting 17psi

on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be closer to 24-25psi.



Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!



Corey and Jenni Graham

1996 PT 42'

Prosper,TX



--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", Pete Masterson wrote:

>

>

> On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:

>

> > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the front

> > of the coach, replaced both

> > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the sensors on

> > the bay doors, best I

> > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the ground had

> > broken, but after fixing

> > ground, no luck still.

> > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was

> > disconnected, all seems

> > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather uncomfortable

> > walking in and sleeping

> > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need to

> > figure this out.

> >

> > I will begin to list some of the other problems.

> >

> > 1. no key for safe,

>

> Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith to get

> in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was famously

> used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.

>

> > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door, although I

> > can hear it trying.

>

> Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The

> solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the least

> amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose inside the

> door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that. Be

> sure the door is tightly closed when you try.

>

> > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside compartment,

> > although I can hear it

> > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays

>

> See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The key

> to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.

>

> I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside cover

> on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then clean

> and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if you can

> hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no sound,

> then there might be a loose wire.

>

> The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was working)

> and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6 and

> 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately press

> "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).

>

> > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great

> ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told by the

> previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".

>

> > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other times

> > it wont engage. It

> > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake

>

> Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my Jake

> brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is malfunctioning.

> During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on the

> system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the DDEC

> unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault in the

> DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high settings).

> The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.

>

> > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all the way

> > around, rope light has

> > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing

>

> Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok, but

> the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the light

> and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are

> probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced. I

> mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night) and

> once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.

>

> > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a broken

> > valve, so I cant get good

> > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to pressurize,

> > by rigging the valve

> > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.

>

> You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water dump

> valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual slide

> valve behind the tall door.

>

> My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable speed

> pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion tank. I

> re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.

>

> I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com to

> transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex tubing

> and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread) fitting

> -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-plumb the

> drain valve.

>

> > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little afraid

> > to mess something up.

> >

> Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already working.

> To use it:

> turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash. That

> allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the 2000

> watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore power.

>

> Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-intuitive:

> turn on AC for heat.)

>

> Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a higher

> temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out of

> various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa. There

> are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the fans

> may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the basement and

> a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40 degrees) on

> the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in freezing

> temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep the

> plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.

>

> There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls an

> electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot

> (hydronic) heat.

>

> The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the side-

> island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat). The

> various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan noise,

> depending.

>

> You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you should

> hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below the A-H

> that will get quite warm when the burner is running.

>

> The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat for

> domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power or on

> the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if there's no

> electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you never

> run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).

>

> The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric element

> can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at 16

> gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner running.

>

> When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine cooling

> system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.

>

> You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as I

> recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician. The A-H

> should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some other

> burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain more

> about the care and operation of the unit.

>

> Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow container) on

> the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is properly

> filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious

> (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two years

> I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional

> coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note that

> there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do not

> use regular automotive coolant.)

>

> The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if I

> recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not a big

> drain on your fuel.

>

> >

> > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is familiar

> > with Bluebirds,

> > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire coach

> > with me and help with

> > all my little questions.

>

> Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several folks who

> can help you.

>

> Pete Masterson

> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

> El Sobrante CA

> aeonix1@...

>

--
Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, CA

[David Brady]

Curt,



Climbing long 6% grades out west on hot days, you'll see your oil

temps approach 230 deg F, you'll also see your water temps climb,

possible beyond 210 deg F. My owners manual, and this is for a

2002 LXi, states that the cooling system is engineered for full power

use on a 100 deg F day. We all know that Las Vegas in the summer

time can be well above that. If ambient is above 100, you need to

gear down and slow down. The water temp needs to be managed.

Under sub 100 deg F ambient, it should average to 195 deg F with

peaks on long 6 % climbs to the low 200's. On my coach, with

a series 60 and DDEC IV, I see boost pressures as high as 29psi.

You have a DDEC III, I believe, you may want to call Detroit Diesel

to see what you should get.



David Brady

'02 LXi, NC



Curt Sprenger wrote:

Drawer CATCHES...contact Stephen Birtles. If the CATCHES are the
ones that a friend made up for us...I sent the inventory to Stephen
Birtles for him to market as I did not want to deal with distributing
them.



Replacement Bulbs...contact Stephen Birtles.



215 oil temp if fine, actually very good if the oil temp gauge is right
on. Coolant temp. should be about 180/185. Radiator cleaning is a good
thing to do.



Full Power Boost...about 20 +/- is good. The DDEC engines might be
different than my non DDEC. I can get  20 +/-. More important is to
watch the boost temp. gauge.

On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 5:35 PM, coreyg67
<"corey@cwgraham.com">
wrote:

More questions.



I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position, so
every time we turn

right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to repairing
the guides, or are

they a replace only type item?



I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs for the
coach. I have

thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find any
light bulb info.

Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights? I need
just about every

bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in
between. I'm hoping to

get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once
rather than make 6

trips to the automotive supply house.



Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and get
multiple keys to

the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going to
spend the

afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread that
is going around. I

noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I figure
a good cleaning

is in order.



Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be? I am only
getting 17psi

on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be closer
to 24-25psi.



Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!



Corey and Jenni Graham

1996 PT 42'

Prosper,TX



--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com",
Pete Masterson "aeonix1@..." wrote:

>

>

> On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:

>

> > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the
front

> > of the coach, replaced both

> > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the
sensors on

> > the bay doors, best I

> > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the ground
had

> > broken, but after fixing

> > ground, no luck still.

> > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was

> > disconnected, all seems

> > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather
uncomfortable

> > walking in and sleeping

> > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need
to

> > figure this out.

> >

> > I will begin to list some of the other problems.

> >

> > 1. no key for safe,

>

> Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith to
get

> in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was
famously

> used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.

>

> > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door,
although I

> > can hear it trying.

>

> Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The

> solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the
least

> amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose inside
the

> door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that. Be


> sure the door is tightly closed when you try.

>

> > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside compartment,


> > although I can hear it

> > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays

>

> See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The
key

> to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.

>

> I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside
cover

> on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then
clean

> and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if you
can

> hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no
sound,

> then there might be a loose wire.

>

> The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was working)


> and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6
and

> 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately
press

> "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).

>

> > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great

> ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told by
the

> previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".

>

> > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other
times

> > it wont engage. It

> > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake

>

> Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my Jake

> brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is malfunctioning.

> During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on the


> system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the DDEC

> unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault in
the

> DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high settings).


> The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.

>

> > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all
the way

> > around, rope light has

> > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing

>

> Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok, but


> the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the light


> and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are

> probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced. I

> mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night) and

> once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.

>

> > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a
broken

> > valve, so I cant get good

> > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to
pressurize,

> > by rigging the valve

> > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.

>

> You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water dump


> valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual slide

> valve behind the tall door.

>

> My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable
speed

> pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion
tank. I

> re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.

>

> I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com
to

> transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex tubing


> and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)
fitting

> -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-plumb
the

> drain valve.

>

> > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little
afraid

> > to mess something up.

> >

> Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already
working.

> To use it:

> turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash.
That

> allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the 2000

> watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore
power.

>

> Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-intuitive:


> turn on AC for heat.)

>

> Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a
higher

> temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out of

> various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa.
There

> are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the
fans

> may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the basement
and

> a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40 degrees)
on

> the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in
freezing

> temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep the


> plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.

>

> There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls an

> electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot

> (hydronic) heat.

>

> The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the side-


> island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat). The

> various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan noise,


> depending.

>

> You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you should


> hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below the
A-H

> that will get quite warm when the burner is running.

>

> The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat for

> domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power or
on

> the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if there's
no

> electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you
never

> run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).

>

> The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric element


> can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at 16

> gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner
running.

>

> When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine cooling


> system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.

>

> You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as I

> recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician. The
A-H

> should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some other

> burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain
more

> about the care and operation of the unit.

>

> Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow container)
on

> the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is properly


> filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious

> (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two
years

> I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional

> coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note
that

> there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do
not

> use regular automotive coolant.)

>

> The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if I

> recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not a
big

> drain on your fuel.

>

> >

> > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is
familiar

> > with Bluebirds,

> > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire
coach

> > with me and help with

> > all my little questions.

>

> Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several folks
who

> can help you.

>

> Pete Masterson

> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

> El Sobrante CA

> aeonix1@...

>

--

Curt Sprenger

1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"

Anaheim Hills, CA

No virus found in this incoming message.

Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.0/1508 - Release Date: 6/18/2008 9:08 PM

[Stephen Birtles]

Give me a call 1 888 668 4288
stephen
dupreeproducts.com




--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "coreyg67" wrote:
>
> More questions.
>
> I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position, so
every time we turn
> right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to
repairing the guides, or are
> they a replace only type item?
>
> I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs for
the coach. I have
> thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find
any light bulb info.
> Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights? I
need just about every
> bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in
between. I'm hoping to
> get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once
rather than make 6
> trips to the automotive supply house.
>
> Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and get
multiple keys to
> the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going
to spend the
> afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread
that is going around. I
> noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I
figure a good cleaning
> is in order.
>
> Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be? I am
only getting 17psi
> on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be
closer to 24-25psi.
>
> Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!
>
> Corey and Jenni Graham
> 1996 PT 42'
> Prosper,TX
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
wrote:
> >
> >
> > On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:
> >
> > > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the front
> > > of the coach, replaced both
> > > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the sensors on
> > > the bay doors, best I
> > > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the ground had
> > > broken, but after fixing
> > > ground, no luck still.
> > > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was
> > > disconnected, all seems
> > > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather uncomfortable
> > > walking in and sleeping
> > > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need to
> > > figure this out.
> > >
> > > I will begin to list some of the other problems.
> > >
> > > 1. no key for safe,
> >
> > Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith to get
> > in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was famously
> > used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.
> >
> > > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door, although I
> > > can hear it trying.
> >
> > Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The
> > solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the
least
> > amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose inside the
> > door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that. Be
> > sure the door is tightly closed when you try.
> >
> > > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside compartment,
> > > although I can hear it
> > > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays
> >
> > See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The key
> > to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.
> >
> > I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside
cover
> > on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then clean
> > and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if you
can
> > hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no sound,
> > then there might be a loose wire.
> >
> > The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was working)
> > and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6 and
> > 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately
press
> > "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).
> >
> > > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> > ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told by the
> > previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".
> >
> > > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other times
> > > it wont engage. It
> > > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake
> >
> > Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my Jake
> > brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is malfunctioning.
> > During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on the
> > system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the DDEC
> > unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault in the
> > DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high settings).
> > The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.
> >
> > > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all the way
> > > around, rope light has
> > > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
> >
> > Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok, but
> > the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the light
> > and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are
> > probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced. I
> > mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night) and
> > once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.
> >
> > > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a broken
> > > valve, so I cant get good
> > > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to pressurize,
> > > by rigging the valve
> > > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
> >
> > You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water dump
> > valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual slide
> > valve behind the tall door.
> >
> > My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable
speed
> > pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion
tank. I
> > re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.
> >
> > I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com to
> > transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex tubing
> > and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)
fitting
> > -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-plumb
the
> > drain valve.
> >
> > > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little afraid
> > > to mess something up.
> > >
> > Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already
working.
> > To use it:
> > turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash. That
> > allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the 2000
> > watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore power.
> >
> > Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-intuitive:
> > turn on AC for heat.)
> >
> > Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a higher
> > temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out of
> > various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa. There
> > are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the fans
> > may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the basement and
> > a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40 degrees) on
> > the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in freezing
> > temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep the
> > plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.
> >
> > There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls an
> > electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot
> > (hydronic) heat.
> >
> > The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the side-
> > island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat). The
> > various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan noise,
> > depending.
> >
> > You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you should
> > hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below the
A-H
> > that will get quite warm when the burner is running.
> >
> > The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat for
> > domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power or on
> > the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if there's no
> > electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you never
> > run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).
> >
> > The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric element
> > can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at 16
> > gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner
running.
> >
> > When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine cooling
> > system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.
> >
> > You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as I
> > recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician. The
A-H
> > should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some other
> > burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain more
> > about the care and operation of the unit.
> >
> > Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow container) on
> > the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is properly
> > filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious
> > (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two years
> > I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional
> > coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note that
> > there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do not
> > use regular automotive coolant.)
> >
> > The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if I
> > recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not a big
> > drain on your fuel.
> >
> > >
> > > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is familiar
> > > with Bluebirds,
> > > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire coach
> > > with me and help with
> > > all my little questions.
> >
> > Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several folks who
> > can help you.
> >
> > Pete Masterson
> > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > El Sobrante CA
> > aeonix1@
> >
>

[coreyg67]

Will do Stephen, Thanks

Corey
1996 PT42


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
wrote:
>
>
> Give me a call 1 888 668 4288
> stephen
> dupreeproducts.com
>
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "coreyg67" wrote:
> >
> > More questions.
> >
> > I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position,
so
> every time we turn
> > right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to
> repairing the guides, or are
> > they a replace only type item?
> >
> > I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs
for
> the coach. I have
> > thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find
> any light bulb info.
> > Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights?
I
> need just about every
> > bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in
> between. I'm hoping to
> > get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once
> rather than make 6
> > trips to the automotive supply house.
> >
> > Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and
get
> multiple keys to
> > the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going
> to spend the
> > afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread
> that is going around. I
> > noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I
> figure a good cleaning
> > is in order.
> >
> > Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be? I
am
> only getting 17psi
> > on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be
> closer to 24-25psi.
> >
> > Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!
> >
> > Corey and Jenni Graham
> > 1996 PT 42'
> > Prosper,TX
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:
> > >
> > > > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the
front
> > > > of the coach, replaced both
> > > > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the
sensors on
> > > > the bay doors, best I
> > > > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the
ground had
> > > > broken, but after fixing
> > > > ground, no luck still.
> > > > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was
> > > > disconnected, all seems
> > > > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather
uncomfortable
> > > > walking in and sleeping
> > > > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need
to
> > > > figure this out.
> > > >
> > > > I will begin to list some of the other problems.
> > > >
> > > > 1. no key for safe,
> > >
> > > Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith
to get
> > > in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was
famously
> > > used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.
> > >
> > > > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door,
although I
> > > > can hear it trying.
> > >
> > > Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The
> > > solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the
> least
> > > amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose
inside the
> > > door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that.
Be
> > > sure the door is tightly closed when you try.
> > >
> > > > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside
compartment,
> > > > although I can hear it
> > > > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays
> > >
> > > See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The
key
> > > to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.
> > >
> > > I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside
> cover
> > > on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then
clean
> > > and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if
you
> can
> > > hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no
sound,
> > > then there might be a loose wire.
> > >
> > > The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was
working)
> > > and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6
and
> > > 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately
> press
> > > "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).
> > >
> > > > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> > > ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told
by the
> > > previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".
> > >
> > > > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other
times
> > > > it wont engage. It
> > > > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake
> > >
> > > Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my
Jake
> > > brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is
malfunctioning.
> > > During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on
the
> > > system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the
DDEC
> > > unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault
in the
> > > DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high
settings).
> > > The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.
> > >
> > > > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all
the way
> > > > around, rope light has
> > > > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
> > >
> > > Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok,
but
> > > the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the
light
> > > and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are
> > > probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced.
I
> > > mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night)
and
> > > once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.
> > >
> > > > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a
broken
> > > > valve, so I cant get good
> > > > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to
pressurize,
> > > > by rigging the valve
> > > > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
> > >
> > > You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water
dump
> > > valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual
slide
> > > valve behind the tall door.
> > >
> > > My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable
> speed
> > > pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion
> tank. I
> > > re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.
> > >
> > > I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com
to
> > > transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex
tubing
> > > and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)
> fitting
> > > -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-
plumb
> the
> > > drain valve.
> > >
> > > > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little
afraid
> > > > to mess something up.
> > > >
> > > Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already
> working.
> > > To use it:
> > > turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash.
That
> > > allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the
2000
> > > watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore
power.
> > >
> > > Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-
intuitive:
> > > turn on AC for heat.)
> > >
> > > Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a
higher
> > > temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out
of
> > > various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa.
There
> > > are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the
fans
> > > may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the
basement and
> > > a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40
degrees) on
> > > the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in
freezing
> > > temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep
the
> > > plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.
> > >
> > > There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls
an
> > > electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot
> > > (hydronic) heat.
> > >
> > > The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the
side-
> > > island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat).
The
> > > various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan
noise,
> > > depending.
> > >
> > > You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you
should
> > > hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below
the
> A-H
> > > that will get quite warm when the burner is running.
> > >
> > > The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat
for
> > > domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power
or on
> > > the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if
there's no
> > > electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you
never
> > > run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).
> > >
> > > The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric
element
> > > can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at
16
> > > gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner
> running.
> > >
> > > When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine
cooling
> > > system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.
> > >
> > > You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as
I
> > > recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician.
The
> A-H
> > > should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some
other
> > > burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain
more
> > > about the care and operation of the unit.
> > >
> > > Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow
container) on
> > > the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is
properly
> > > filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious
> > > (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two
years
> > > I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional
> > > coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note
that
> > > there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do
not
> > > use regular automotive coolant.)
> > >
> > > The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if
I
> > > recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not
a big
> > > drain on your fuel.
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is
familiar
> > > > with Bluebirds,
> > > > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire
coach
> > > > with me and help with
> > > > all my little questions.
> > >
> > > Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several
folks who
> > > can help you.
> > >
> > > Pete Masterson
> > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > > El Sobrante CA
> > > aeonix1@
> > >
> >
>

[coreyg67]

More questions for you guys!

I spent the majority of the weekend playing around with the coach to
try and correct some problems, as well as to better learn my way
around.

1. The propane tank shows to be a little over a 1/2 full, and I
verified this by removing the panel in the driver side bay and
looking at the guage on the tank itself. Problem is, I cant get the
fridge, or the princess cooktop to light. I have checked the main
valve at the tank, it is on. The LPG master switch is on, and the
detector pad under the kitchen cabinets has both lights green, so I'm
assuming this should tell me the valve is open, and all is
functioning correctly. I do have a second detector pad mounted to
the wall above the dinette, (driver side) but cannot get anything on
the pad to light up. any suggestions?

2. I fixed the leak on the freshwater system, but i don't totally
understand the operation of the switches in the water/sewage service
bay. No matter which way i have the switch flipped for the tank
fill, it appears that the tank continues to fill, and I cant get any
pressure from the city side of the system. So far I have had very
little luck getting any water to pump through the system at all. I'm
sure there is an easy method of setting this up properly, but I'm not
familiar with this system.

3. The front A/C unit is leaking water in the coach, so I'm assuming
the condensate drain is blocked. I have found the drain (i think)
for the middle and rear units, but dont know where the drain for the
front unit is located?

4. I'm working on the leveling system, and currently waiting for a
return call from HWH. I did find the brain for the system last night
in the bay and found three blown 15amp fuses. These were the three
fuses servicing the battery input, ignition input, and I don't recall
the last input. Hopefully if I can locate the cause of the blown
fuses, we will finally be able to level the coach. Does anyone have
any ideas where I should start to trouble shoot the fuse problem?

Thanks again everyone for all the help, this is so much fun to learn
my way around with your help!!

Corey & Jenni Graham
1996 PT 42'



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
wrote:
>
>
> Give me a call 1 888 668 4288
> stephen
> dupreeproducts.com
>
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "coreyg67" wrote:
> >
> > More questions.
> >
> > I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position,
so
> every time we turn
> > right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to
> repairing the guides, or are
> > they a replace only type item?
> >
> > I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs
for
> the coach. I have
> > thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find
> any light bulb info.
> > Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights?
I
> need just about every
> > bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in
> between. I'm hoping to
> > get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once
> rather than make 6
> > trips to the automotive supply house.
> >
> > Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and
get
> multiple keys to
> > the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going
> to spend the
> > afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread
> that is going around. I
> > noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I
> figure a good cleaning
> > is in order.
> >
> > Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be? I
am
> only getting 17psi
> > on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be
> closer to 24-25psi.
> >
> > Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!
> >
> > Corey and Jenni Graham
> > 1996 PT 42'
> > Prosper,TX
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:
> > >
> > > > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the
front
> > > > of the coach, replaced both
> > > > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the
sensors on
> > > > the bay doors, best I
> > > > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the
ground had
> > > > broken, but after fixing
> > > > ground, no luck still.
> > > > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was
> > > > disconnected, all seems
> > > > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather
uncomfortable
> > > > walking in and sleeping
> > > > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need
to
> > > > figure this out.
> > > >
> > > > I will begin to list some of the other problems.
> > > >
> > > > 1. no key for safe,
> > >
> > > Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith
to get
> > > in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was
famously
> > > used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.
> > >
> > > > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door,
although I
> > > > can hear it trying.
> > >
> > > Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The
> > > solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the
> least
> > > amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose
inside the
> > > door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that.
Be
> > > sure the door is tightly closed when you try.
> > >
> > > > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside
compartment,
> > > > although I can hear it
> > > > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays
> > >
> > > See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The
key
> > > to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.
> > >
> > > I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside
> cover
> > > on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then
clean
> > > and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if
you
> can
> > > hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no
sound,
> > > then there might be a loose wire.
> > >
> > > The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was
working)
> > > and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6
and
> > > 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately
> press
> > > "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).
> > >
> > > > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> > > ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told
by the
> > > previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".
> > >
> > > > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other
times
> > > > it wont engage. It
> > > > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake
> > >
> > > Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my
Jake
> > > brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is
malfunctioning.
> > > During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on
the
> > > system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the
DDEC
> > > unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault
in the
> > > DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high
settings).
> > > The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.
> > >
> > > > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all
the way
> > > > around, rope light has
> > > > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
> > >
> > > Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok,
but
> > > the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the
light
> > > and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are
> > > probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced.
I
> > > mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night)
and
> > > once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.
> > >
> > > > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a
broken
> > > > valve, so I cant get good
> > > > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to
pressurize,
> > > > by rigging the valve
> > > > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
> > >
> > > You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water
dump
> > > valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual
slide
> > > valve behind the tall door.
> > >
> > > My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable
> speed
> > > pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion
> tank. I
> > > re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.
> > >
> > > I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com
to
> > > transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex
tubing
> > > and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)
> fitting
> > > -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-
plumb
> the
> > > drain valve.
> > >
> > > > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little
afraid
> > > > to mess something up.
> > > >
> > > Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already
> working.
> > > To use it:
> > > turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash.
That
> > > allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the
2000
> > > watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore
power.
> > >
> > > Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-
intuitive:
> > > turn on AC for heat.)
> > >
> > > Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a
higher
> > > temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out
of
> > > various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa.
There
> > > are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the
fans
> > > may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the
basement and
> > > a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40
degrees) on
> > > the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in
freezing
> > > temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep
the
> > > plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.
> > >
> > > There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls
an
> > > electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot
> > > (hydronic) heat.
> > >
> > > The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the
side-
> > > island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat).
The
> > > various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan
noise,
> > > depending.
> > >
> > > You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you
should
> > > hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below
the
> A-H
> > > that will get quite warm when the burner is running.
> > >
> > > The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat
for
> > > domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power
or on
> > > the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if
there's no
> > > electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you
never
> > > run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).
> > >
> > > The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric
element
> > > can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at
16
> > > gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner
> running.
> > >
> > > When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine
cooling
> > > system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.
> > >
> > > You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as
I
> > > recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician.
The
> A-H
> > > should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some
other
> > > burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain
more
> > > about the care and operation of the unit.
> > >
> > > Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow
container) on
> > > the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is
properly
> > > filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious
> > > (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two
years
> > > I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional
> > > coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note
that
> > > there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do
not
> > > use regular automotive coolant.)
> > >
> > > The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if
I
> > > recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not
a big
> > > drain on your fuel.
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is
familiar
> > > > with Bluebirds,
> > > > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire
coach
> > > > with me and help with
> > > > all my little questions.
> > >
> > > Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several
folks who
> > > can help you.
> > >
> > > Pete Masterson
> > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > > El Sobrante CA
> > > aeonix1@
> > >
> >
>

[Glenn Allen]

Corey,

On my older unit, there is a valve under the cooktop cover and
another value behind the refrigerator.

My fresh water fill switch is pneumatic....must have air in the Aux
system to work.

If your A/Cs are rooftop, see if you can access the drain from the
roof with a compressed air nozzle.

I don't have any insight to your leveling problems.

Glenn
1986 PT-40
Marietta, GA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "coreyg67"
wrote:
>
> More questions for you guys!
>
> I spent the majority of the weekend playing around with the coach
to
> try and correct some problems, as well as to better learn my way
> around.
>
> 1. The propane tank shows to be a little over a 1/2 full, and I
> verified this by removing the panel in the driver side bay and
> looking at the guage on the tank itself. Problem is, I cant get
the
> fridge, or the princess cooktop to light. I have checked the main
> valve at the tank, it is on. The LPG master switch is on, and the
> detector pad under the kitchen cabinets has both lights green, so
I'm
> assuming this should tell me the valve is open, and all is
> functioning correctly. I do have a second detector pad mounted to
> the wall above the dinette, (driver side) but cannot get anything
on
> the pad to light up. any suggestions?
>
> 2. I fixed the leak on the freshwater system, but i don't totally
> understand the operation of the switches in the water/sewage
service
> bay. No matter which way i have the switch flipped for the tank
> fill, it appears that the tank continues to fill, and I cant get
any
> pressure from the city side of the system. So far I have had very
> little luck getting any water to pump through the system at all.
I'm
> sure there is an easy method of setting this up properly, but I'm
not
> familiar with this system.
>
> 3. The front A/C unit is leaking water in the coach, so I'm
assuming
> the condensate drain is blocked. I have found the drain (i think)
> for the middle and rear units, but dont know where the drain for
the
> front unit is located?
>
> 4. I'm working on the leveling system, and currently waiting for
a
> return call from HWH. I did find the brain for the system last
night
> in the bay and found three blown 15amp fuses. These were the
three
> fuses servicing the battery input, ignition input, and I don't
recall
> the last input. Hopefully if I can locate the cause of the blown
> fuses, we will finally be able to level the coach. Does anyone
have
> any ideas where I should start to trouble shoot the fuse problem?
>
> Thanks again everyone for all the help, this is so much fun to
learn
> my way around with your help!!
>
> Corey & Jenni Graham
> 1996 PT 42'
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Give me a call 1 888 668 4288
> > stephen
> > dupreeproducts.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "coreyg67"
wrote:
> > >
> > > More questions.
> > >
> > > I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked
position,
> so
> > every time we turn
> > > right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to
> > repairing the guides, or are
> > > they a replace only type item?
> > >
> > > I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement
bulbs
> for
> > the coach. I have
> > > thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant
find
> > any light bulb info.
> > > Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for
lights?
> I
> > need just about every
> > > bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in
> > between. I'm hoping to
> > > get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at
once
> > rather than make 6
> > > trips to the automotive supply house.
> > >
> > > Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything
and
> get
> > multiple keys to
> > > the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am
going
> > to spend the
> > > afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps
thread
> > that is going around. I
> > > noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I
> > figure a good cleaning
> > > is in order.
> > >
> > > Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be?
I
> am
> > only getting 17psi
> > > on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would
be
> > closer to 24-25psi.
> > >
> > > Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!
> > >
> > > Corey and Jenni Graham
> > > 1996 PT 42'
> > > Prosper,TX
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson

> > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from
the
> front
> > > > > of the coach, replaced both
> > > > > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the
> sensors on
> > > > > the bay doors, best I
> > > > > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the
> ground had
> > > > > broken, but after fixing
> > > > > ground, no luck still.
> > > > > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire
was
> > > > > disconnected, all seems
> > > > > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather
> uncomfortable
> > > > > walking in and sleeping
> > > > > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really
need
> to
> > > > > figure this out.
> > > > >
> > > > > I will begin to list some of the other problems.
> > > > >
> > > > > 1. no key for safe,
> > > >
> > > > Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a
locksmith
> to get
> > > > in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was
> famously
> > > > used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.
> > > >
> > > > > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door,
> although I
> > > > > can hear it trying.
> > > >
> > > > Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch.
The
> > > > solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even
the
> > least
> > > > amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose
> inside the
> > > > door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on
that.
> Be
> > > > sure the door is tightly closed when you try.
> > > >
> > > > > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside
> compartment,
> > > > > although I can hear it
> > > > > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays
> > > >
> > > > See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays.
The
> key
> > > > to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my
coach.
> > > >
> > > > I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the
inside
> > cover
> > > > on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) --
then
> clean
> > > > and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then
(if
> you
> > can
> > > > hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's
no
> sound,
> > > > then there might be a loose wire.
> > > >
> > > > The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was
> working)
> > > > and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons
(5/6
> and
> > > > 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then
immediately
> > press
> > > > "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).
> > > >
> > > > > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> > > > ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was
told
> by the
> > > > previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".
> > > >
> > > > > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then
other
> times
> > > > > it wont engage. It
> > > > > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake
brake
> > > >
> > > > Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my
> Jake
> > > > brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is
> malfunctioning.
> > > > During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer
on
> the
> > > > system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the
> DDEC
> > > > unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the
fault
> in the
> > > > DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high
> settings).
> > > > The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.
> > > >
> > > > > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all
> the way
> > > > > around, rope light has
> > > > > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
> > > >
> > > > Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were
ok,
> but
> > > > the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the
> light
> > > > and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights
are
> > > > probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be
replaced.
> I
> > > > mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at
night)
> and
> > > > once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.
> > > >
> > > > > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a
> broken
> > > > > valve, so I cant get good
> > > > > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to
> pressurize,
> > > > > by rigging the valve
> > > > > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
> > > >
> > > > You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh
water
> dump
> > > > valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual
> slide
> > > > valve behind the tall door.
> > > >
> > > > My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single
variable
> > speed
> > > > pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion
> > tank. I
> > > > re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.
> > > >
> > > > I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com
> to
> > > > transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex
> tubing
> > > > and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)
> > fitting
> > > > -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-
> plumb
> > the
> > > > drain valve.
> > > >
> > > > > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a
little
> afraid
> > > > > to mess something up.
> > > > >
> > > > Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already
> > working.
> > > > To use it:
> > > > turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the
dash.
> That
> > > > allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the
> 2000
> > > > watt electric element that works when you're plugged into
shore
> power.
> > > >
> > > > Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-
> intuitive:
> > > > turn on AC for heat.)
> > > >
> > > > Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to
a
> higher
> > > > temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming
out
> of
> > > > various places. Under the galley and probably under the
sofa.
> There
> > > > are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of
the
> fans
> > > > may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the
> basement and
> > > > a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40
> degrees) on
> > > > the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in
> freezing
> > > > temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and
keep
> the
> > > > plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.
> > > >
> > > > There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One
controls
> an
> > > > electric toe kick space heater the other controls the
aquahot
> > > > (hydronic) heat.
> > > >
> > > > The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the
> side-
> > > > island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat).
> The
> > > > various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan
> noise,
> > > > depending.
> > > >
> > > > You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you
> should
> > > > hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just
below
> the
> > A-H
> > > > that will get quite warm when the burner is running.
> > > >
> > > > The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives
heat
> for
> > > > domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore
power
> or on
> > > > the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if
> there's no
> > > > electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so
you
> never
> > > > run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).
> > > >
> > > > The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric
> element
> > > > can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot
at
> 16
> > > > gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the
burner
> > running.
> > > >
> > > > When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine
> cooling
> > > > system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.
> > > >
> > > > You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area
as
> I
> > > > recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service
technician.
> The
> > A-H
> > > > should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some
> other
> > > > burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can
explain
> more
> > > > about the care and operation of the unit.
> > > >
> > > > Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow
> container) on
> > > > the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is
> properly
> > > > filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk
serious
> > > > (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the
two
> years
> > > > I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any
additional
> > > > coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60.
(Note
> that
> > > > there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 --
do
> not
> > > > use regular automotive coolant.)
> > > >
> > > > The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour
(if
> I
> > > > recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's
not
> a big
> > > > drain on your fuel.
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is
> familiar
> > > > > with Bluebirds,
> > > > > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire
> coach
> > > > > with me and help with
> > > > > all my little questions.
> > > >
> > > > Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several
> folks who
> > > > can help you.
> > > >
> > > > Pete Masterson
> > > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > > > El Sobrante CA
> > > > aeonix1@
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

[Pete Masterson]

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 23, 2008, at 10:52 AM, coreyg67 wrote:

More questions for you guys!

<snip> (I don't have LP Gas, so I can't advise on that point).

2.  I fixed the leak on the freshwater system, but i don't totally 

understand the operation of the switches in the water/sewage service 

bay.  No matter which way i have the switch flipped for the tank 

fill, it appears that the tank continues to fill, and I cant get any 

pressure from the city side of the system.  So far I have had very 

little luck getting any water to pump through the system at all.  I'm 

sure there is an easy method of setting this up properly, but I'm not 

familiar with this system.

Fill tank: Pump off. Fill switch on. No (or minimal) water pressure in coach plumbing.

City water: Pump off, fill switch off. Should have about 45# pressure in coach plumbing. BB has a built in pressure reducer at the water inlet. Both the fill and internal plumbing are limited to 45 psi.

Tank Water. No input from shore (disconnect hose). Turn pump on. If tank has water, you will have whatever pressure the pump provides.

If it isn't working like this, then there are "problems" that need to be checked.

The fill tank switch activates an infamous Sporlan valve. These sometimes need to be cleaned or have the internal seal replaced. If the Sporlan valve isn't working right, the tank won't fill (when the fill switch is on) or the tank will fill and the city water will never reach the internal plumbing. (i.e. the Sporlan can be "stuck" in either position.)

Running the pump while the fill switch is on will cause it to run constantly as the system won't pressurize and cycle the pump off. I don't think the internal plumbing will have significant pressure in this situation.

Note that some owners, having had trouble with the Sporlan valve (hard water build up is a source of ongoing problems) have taken the Sporlan out of the system and then the 'city water' only fills the tank and all internal water pressure is provided by the pump only.

Look near the pump to ensure that the Sporlan valve (it's brass and silver, if I recall correctly) is located on the bulkhead wall near the pumps.

3.  The front A/C unit is leaking water in the coach, so I'm assuming 

the condensate drain is blocked.  I have found the drain (i think) 

for the middle and rear units, but dont know where the drain for the 

front unit is located?

4.  I'm working on the leveling system, and currently waiting for a 

return call from HWH.  I did find the brain for the system last night 

in the bay and found three blown 15amp fuses.  These were the three 

fuses servicing the battery input, ignition input, and I don't recall 

the last input.  Hopefully if I can locate the cause of the blown 

fuses, we will finally be able to level the coach.  Does anyone have 

any ideas where I should start to trouble shoot the fuse problem?

Thanks again everyone for all the help, this is so much fun to learn 

my way around with your help!!

Corey & Jenni Graham

1996 PT 42'

--- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com", "Stephen Birtles" 

wrote:

Give me a call  1 888 668 4288

 stephen  

dupreeproducts.com

--- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com", "coreyg67" wrote:

More questions.

I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position, 

so

every time we turn 

right, the drawers come flying open.  Is there any trick to

repairing the guides, or are 

they a replace only type item?  

I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs 

for

the coach.  I have 

thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find

any light bulb info.  

Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights?  

I

need just about every 

bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in

between.  I'm hoping to 

get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once

rather than make 6 

trips to the automotive supply house.

Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and 

get

multiple keys to 

the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going

to spend the 

afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread

that is going around.  I 

noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I

figure a good cleaning 

is in order.

Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be?  I 

am

only getting 17psi 

on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be

closer to 24-25psi.

Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!

Corey and Jenni Graham

1996 PT 42'

Prosper,TX

--- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com", Pete Masterson

wrote:

On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:

Still no luck on the levelers.  I pulled the panel from the 

front  

of the coach, replaced both

fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck.  Checked all the 

sensors on  

the bay doors, best I

can tell, all are functioning.  I did find two that the 

ground had  

broken, but after fixing

ground, no luck still.

Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was  

disconnected, all seems

proper.  So now I'm starting to worry.  It is rather 

uncomfortable  

walking in and sleeping

in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need 

to  

figure this out.

I will begin to list some of the other problems.

1. no key for safe,

Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith 

to get  

in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was 

famously  

used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.

2. door lock button for front door will not lock door, 

although I  

can hear it trying.

Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The  

solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the

least  

amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose 

inside the  

door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that. 

Be  

sure the door is tightly closed when you try.

3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside 

compartment,  

although I can hear it

trying to.  This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays

See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The 

key  

to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.

I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside

cover  

on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then 

clean  

and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if 

you

can  

hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no 

sound,  

then there might be a loose wire.

The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was 

working)  

and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6 

and  

7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately

press  

"6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).

4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great

?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told 

by the  

previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".

5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other 

times  

it wont engage.  It

will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake

Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my 

Jake  

brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is 

malfunctioning.  

During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on 

the  

system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the 

DDEC  

unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault 

in the  

DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high 

settings).  

The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.

6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all 

the way  

around, rope light has

several burned out bulbs, needs replacing

Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok, 

but  

the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the 

light  

and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are  

probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced. 

I  

mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night) 

and  

once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.

7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a 

broken  

valve, so I cant get good

pressure from the fresh water system.  I did get it to 

pressurize,  

by rigging the valve

shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.

You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water 

dump  

valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual 

slide  

valve behind the tall door.

My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable

speed  

pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion

tank. I  

re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.

I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com 

to  

transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex 

tubing  

and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)

fitting  

-- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-

plumb

the  

drain valve.

8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little 

afraid  

to mess something up.

Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already

working.  

To use it:

turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash. 

That  

allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the 

2000  

watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore 

power.

Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-

intuitive:  

turn on AC for heat.)

Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a 

higher  

temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out 

of  

various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa. 

There  

are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the 

fans  

may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the 

basement and  

a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40 

degrees) on  

the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in 

freezing  

temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep 

the  

plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.

There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls 

an  

electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot  

(hydronic) heat.

The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the 

side- 

island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat). 

The  

various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan 

noise,  

depending.

You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you 

should  

hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below 

the

A-H  

that will get quite warm when the burner is running.

The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat 

for  

domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power 

or on  

the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if 

there's no  

electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you 

never  

run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).

The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric 

element  

can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at 

16  

gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner

running.

When you're on the road,  the A-H gets heat from the engine 

cooling  

system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.

You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as 

I  

recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician. 

The

A-H  

should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some 

other  

burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain 

more  

about the care and operation of the unit.

Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow 

container) on  

the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is 

properly  

filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious  

(expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two 

years  

I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional  

coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note 

that  

there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do 

not  

use regular automotive coolant.)

The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if 

I  

recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not 

a big  

drain on your fuel.

I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is 

familiar  

with Bluebirds,

preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire 

coach  

with me and help with

all my little questions.

Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several 

folks who  

can help you.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

aeonix1@

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/

<*> Your email settings:

    Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/join

    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:

    "WanderlodgeForum-digest@yahoogroups.com" 

    "WanderlodgeForum-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com"

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

    "WanderlodgeForum-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com"

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Pete Masterson]

On Jun 23, 2008, at 10:52 AM, coreyg67 wrote:

<snip>

Sorry, I clicked the send button before I finished....

3.  The front A/C unit is leaking water in the coach, so I'm assuming 

the condensate drain is blocked.  I have found the drain (i think) 

for the middle and rear units, but dont know where the drain for the 

front unit is located?

There's two tubes, one on each side. They're near the front wheels. I found by curb side tube had some rust and debris that clogged the one-way valve on the end. I cut off the one-way valve and it drained. Works fine now.

It's easiest to go on the roof, take off the plastic cover and use air pressure to blow out the lines from the top. This will also give you a chance to clean out around the AC and lubricate the motors (if they're not sealed bearings). Be sure to check that the condenser fins are clean as mud daubers, etc. may have built nests. (Some say to do this at the beginning of each season.) 

It is also possible that the seal around the AC opening has degraded. You can get new seals at Camping World or other RV supply places. Replacing it requires lifting the AC from it's mounting (there's screws and clamps to remove both inside and outside the coach). Best if two people lift the AC -- it's heavy.

4.  I'm working on the leveling system, and currently waiting for a 

return call from HWH. 

Since I've had no serious issues with my HWH, can't say. I do know that HWH technical support is very good and they did help me with a relatively minor problem. 

I wasn't satisfied with the quality or consistency of the leveling and thought the sensor in the basement needed adjusting, so I called to get the procedure. After discussing it with them, I determined that the level was "in spec" and that adjustment of the sensor was unlikely to improve the initial level or consistency. 

I now check the level manually once the HWH has finished its automatic run. Then I "tweak" the level manually if it doesn't meet my preferences. On my coach, the curb side tends to end up high by about 1/4 bubble about half the time. A momentary press of the "down" button for that side usually brings it to near-perfect level. Front to rear is often a trifle off, but that's much less annoying than the side-to-side position.

HWH told me that within about 1/4 bubble is about as accurate as you can get automatically.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

[bumpersbird]

Corey,

You should also have a toggle swithch at the propane fill on the
roadside fueling door. I don't know if up is on or off mine isn't
marked and I have to fool with it everytime I fill the Propane tank.
It shoud be set to on as well as the gas on inside the coach, if I am
correct. My system is also kinda finicky. The sporland valve is the
problem. Sometimes the only way I can restart the gas is by turning
on and off the AT, ( Anti-Theft ), switch on the dash. It should be
next to the Wanderlodge logo in the center just below the Amp. gauge.
All it does is kill all the DC systems. Sometimes it helps in getting
the valve to open. Also you might try hitting the test buttom on the
gas detector, but get ready becaude it is LOUD


You should have a three of four position switch in the bathroon that
turns on the pumps. It's usually under a cabinet, mine is just above
the commode, under a medicine cabinet. There is also a pump switch on
the console above the drivers seat around the Generator start switch.
Don't forget to turn off the water fill switch in the Water/Sewage
Bay.


The front AC has two drains just behind the front wheel wells on each
side. They are small red plastic tubes. Hunt around you'll find them.
I tried to clear mine by blowing compressed air up the tubes. It
didn't work. I ended up sealing the drains at the AC on the roof. Not
a great fix I get water comming off the roof and down the side
drivers window and when conditions are correct it will blow onto the
windshield.

I no help on the levelers.

Kurt Horvath
95 PT-42 WLWB
Fayetteville TN

[bumpersbird]

Pete,

There is a one way valve on the end on the drain tubes??????

How far up are they?

I tried to clear them and had no luck. My BB GURU told me to block the
drain up at the roof. I did and it stopped leaking inside the coach.

Now I get AC runoff on the drivers window and sometime a vortex makes
it hit the windshield as I'm driving, very annoying.

Kurt Horvath
95PT-42 WLWB
10AC