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Maiden Voyage Complete!!!
06-19-2008, 16:23
Post: #31
Maiden Voyage Complete!!!
Drawer CATCHES...contact Stephen Birtles. If the CATCHES are the ones that a friend made up for us...I sent the inventory to Stephen Birtles for him to market as I did not want to deal with distributing them.

Replacement Bulbs...contact Stephen Birtles.


215 oil temp if fine, actually very good if the oil temp gauge is right on. Coolant temp. should be about 180/185. Radiator cleaning is a good thing to do.

Full Power Boost...about 20 +/- is good. The DDEC engines might be different than my non DDEC. I can get 20 +/-. More important is to watch the boost temp. gauge.






On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 5:35 PM, coreyg67 <"corey@cwgraham.com"> wrote:


More questions.



I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position, so every time we turn

right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to repairing the guides, or are

they a replace only type item?



I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs for the coach. I have

thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find any light bulb info.

Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights? I need just about every

bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in between. I'm hoping to

get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once rather than make 6

trips to the automotive supply house.



Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and get multiple keys to

the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going to spend the

afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread that is going around. I

noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I figure a good cleaning

is in order.



Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be? I am only getting 17psi

on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be closer to 24-25psi.



Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!



Corey and Jenni Graham

1996 PT 42'

Prosper,TX



--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", Pete Masterson wrote:

>

>

> On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:

>

> > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the front

> > of the coach, replaced both

> > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the sensors on

> > the bay doors, best I

> > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the ground had

> > broken, but after fixing

> > ground, no luck still.

> > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was

> > disconnected, all seems

> > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather uncomfortable

> > walking in and sleeping

> > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need to

> > figure this out.

> >

> > I will begin to list some of the other problems.

> >

> > 1. no key for safe,

>

> Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith to get

> in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was famously

> used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.

>

> > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door, although I

> > can hear it trying.

>

> Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The

> solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the least

> amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose inside the

> door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that. Be

> sure the door is tightly closed when you try.

>

> > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside compartment,

> > although I can hear it

> > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays

>

> See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The key

> to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.

>

> I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside cover

> on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then clean

> and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if you can

> hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no sound,

> then there might be a loose wire.

>

> The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was working)

> and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6 and

> 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately press

> "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).

>

> > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great

> ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told by the

> previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".

>

> > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other times

> > it wont engage. It

> > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake

>

> Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my Jake

> brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is malfunctioning.

> During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on the

> system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the DDEC

> unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault in the

> DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high settings).

> The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.

>

> > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all the way

> > around, rope light has

> > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing

>

> Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok, but

> the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the light

> and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are

> probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced. I

> mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night) and

> once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.

>

> > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a broken

> > valve, so I cant get good

> > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to pressurize,

> > by rigging the valve

> > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.

>

> You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water dump

> valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual slide

> valve behind the tall door.

>

> My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable speed

> pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion tank. I

> re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.

>

> I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com to

> transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex tubing

> and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread) fitting

> -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-plumb the

> drain valve.

>

> > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little afraid

> > to mess something up.

> >

> Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already working.

> To use it:

> turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash. That

> allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the 2000

> watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore power.

>

> Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-intuitive:

> turn on AC for heat.)

>

> Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a higher

> temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out of

> various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa. There

> are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the fans

> may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the basement and

> a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40 degrees) on

> the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in freezing

> temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep the

> plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.

>

> There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls an

> electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot

> (hydronic) heat.

>

> The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the side-

> island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat). The

> various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan noise,

> depending.

>

> You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you should

> hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below the A-H

> that will get quite warm when the burner is running.

>

> The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat for

> domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power or on

> the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if there's no

> electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you never

> run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).

>

> The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric element

> can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at 16

> gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner running.

>

> When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine cooling

> system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.

>

> You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as I

> recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician. The A-H

> should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some other

> burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain more

> about the care and operation of the unit.

>

> Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow container) on

> the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is properly

> filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious

> (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two years

> I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional

> coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note that

> there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do not

> use regular automotive coolant.)

>

> The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if I

> recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not a big

> drain on your fuel.

>

> >

> > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is familiar

> > with Bluebirds,

> > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire coach

> > with me and help with

> > all my little questions.

>

> Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several folks who

> can help you.

>

> Pete Masterson

> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

> El Sobrante CA

> aeonix1@...

>






--
Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, CA
Quote this message in a reply
06-20-2008, 02:27
Post: #32
Maiden Voyage Complete!!!

Curt,



Climbing long 6% grades out west on hot days, you'll see your oil

temps approach 230 deg F, you'll also see your water temps climb,

possible beyond 210 deg F. My owners manual, and this is for a

2002 LXi, states that the cooling system is engineered for full power

use on a 100 deg F day. We all know that Las Vegas in the summer

time can be well above that. If ambient is above 100, you need to

gear down and slow down. The water temp needs to be managed.

Under sub 100 deg F ambient, it should average to 195 deg F with

peaks on long 6 % climbs to the low 200's. On my coach, with

a series 60 and DDEC IV, I see boost pressures as high as 29psi.

You have a DDEC III, I believe, you may want to call Detroit Diesel

to see what you should get.



David Brady

'02 LXi, NC



Curt Sprenger wrote:


Drawer CATCHES...contact Stephen Birtles. If the CATCHES are the
ones that a friend made up for us...I sent the inventory to Stephen
Birtles for him to market as I did not want to deal with distributing
them.



Replacement Bulbs...contact Stephen Birtles.



215 oil temp if fine, actually very good if the oil temp gauge is right
on. Coolant temp. should be about 180/185. Radiator cleaning is a good
thing to do.



Full Power Boost...about 20 +/- is good. The DDEC engines might be
different than my non DDEC. I can get  20 +/-. More important is to
watch the boost temp. gauge.











On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 5:35 PM, coreyg67
<"corey@cwgraham.com">
wrote:



More questions.



I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position, so
every time we turn

right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to repairing
the guides, or are

they a replace only type item?



I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs for the
coach. I have

thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find any
light bulb info.

Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights? I need
just about every

bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in
between. I'm hoping to

get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once
rather than make 6

trips to the automotive supply house.



Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and get
multiple keys to

the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going to
spend the

afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread that
is going around. I

noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I figure
a good cleaning

is in order.



Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be? I am only
getting 17psi

on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be closer
to 24-25psi.



Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!



Corey and Jenni Graham

1996 PT 42'

Prosper,TX



--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com",
Pete Masterson "aeonix1@..." wrote:

>

>

> On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:

>

> > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the
front

> > of the coach, replaced both

> > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the
sensors on

> > the bay doors, best I

> > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the ground
had

> > broken, but after fixing

> > ground, no luck still.

> > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was

> > disconnected, all seems

> > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather
uncomfortable

> > walking in and sleeping

> > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need
to

> > figure this out.

> >

> > I will begin to list some of the other problems.

> >

> > 1. no key for safe,

>

> Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith to
get

> in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was
famously

> used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.

>

> > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door,
although I

> > can hear it trying.

>

> Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The

> solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the
least

> amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose inside
the

> door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that. Be


> sure the door is tightly closed when you try.

>

> > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside compartment,


> > although I can hear it

> > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays

>

> See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The
key

> to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.

>

> I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside
cover

> on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then
clean

> and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if you
can

> hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no
sound,

> then there might be a loose wire.

>

> The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was working)


> and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6
and

> 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately
press

> "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).

>

> > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great

> ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told by
the

> previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".

>

> > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other
times

> > it wont engage. It

> > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake

>

> Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my Jake

> brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is malfunctioning.

> During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on the


> system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the DDEC

> unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault in
the

> DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high settings).


> The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.

>

> > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all
the way

> > around, rope light has

> > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing

>

> Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok, but


> the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the light


> and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are

> probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced. I

> mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night) and

> once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.

>

> > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a
broken

> > valve, so I cant get good

> > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to
pressurize,

> > by rigging the valve

> > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.

>

> You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water dump


> valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual slide

> valve behind the tall door.

>

> My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable
speed

> pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion
tank. I

> re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.

>

> I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com
to

> transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex tubing


> and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)
fitting

> -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-plumb
the

> drain valve.

>

> > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little
afraid

> > to mess something up.

> >

> Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already
working.

> To use it:

> turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash.
That

> allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the 2000

> watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore
power.

>

> Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-intuitive:


> turn on AC for heat.)

>

> Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a
higher

> temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out of

> various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa.
There

> are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the
fans

> may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the basement
and

> a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40 degrees)
on

> the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in
freezing

> temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep the


> plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.

>

> There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls an

> electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot

> (hydronic) heat.

>

> The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the side-


> island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat). The

> various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan noise,


> depending.

>

> You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you should


> hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below the
A-H

> that will get quite warm when the burner is running.

>

> The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat for

> domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power or
on

> the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if there's
no

> electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you
never

> run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).

>

> The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric element


> can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at 16

> gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner
running.

>

> When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine cooling


> system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.

>

> You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as I

> recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician. The
A-H

> should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some other

> burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain
more

> about the care and operation of the unit.

>

> Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow container)
on

> the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is properly


> filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious

> (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two
years

> I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional

> coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note
that

> there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do
not

> use regular automotive coolant.)

>

> The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if I

> recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not a
big

> drain on your fuel.

>

> >

> > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is
familiar

> > with Bluebirds,

> > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire
coach

> > with me and help with

> > all my little questions.

>

> Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several folks
who

> can help you.

>

> Pete Masterson

> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

> El Sobrante CA

> aeonix1@...

>









--

Curt Sprenger

1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"

Anaheim Hills, CA


No virus found in this incoming message.
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Quote this message in a reply
06-20-2008, 05:27
Post: #33
Maiden Voyage Complete!!!
Give me a call 1 888 668 4288
stephen
dupreeproducts.com




--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "coreyg67" wrote:
>
> More questions.
>
> I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position, so
every time we turn
> right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to
repairing the guides, or are
> they a replace only type item?
>
> I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs for
the coach. I have
> thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find
any light bulb info.
> Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights? I
need just about every
> bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in
between. I'm hoping to
> get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once
rather than make 6
> trips to the automotive supply house.
>
> Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and get
multiple keys to
> the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going
to spend the
> afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread
that is going around. I
> noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I
figure a good cleaning
> is in order.
>
> Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be? I am
only getting 17psi
> on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be
closer to 24-25psi.
>
> Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!
>
> Corey and Jenni Graham
> 1996 PT 42'
> Prosper,TX
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
wrote:
> >
> >
> > On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:
> >
> > > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the front
> > > of the coach, replaced both
> > > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the sensors on
> > > the bay doors, best I
> > > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the ground had
> > > broken, but after fixing
> > > ground, no luck still.
> > > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was
> > > disconnected, all seems
> > > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather uncomfortable
> > > walking in and sleeping
> > > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need to
> > > figure this out.
> > >
> > > I will begin to list some of the other problems.
> > >
> > > 1. no key for safe,
> >
> > Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith to get
> > in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was famously
> > used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.
> >
> > > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door, although I
> > > can hear it trying.
> >
> > Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The
> > solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the
least
> > amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose inside the
> > door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that. Be
> > sure the door is tightly closed when you try.
> >
> > > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside compartment,
> > > although I can hear it
> > > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays
> >
> > See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The key
> > to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.
> >
> > I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside
cover
> > on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then clean
> > and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if you
can
> > hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no sound,
> > then there might be a loose wire.
> >
> > The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was working)
> > and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6 and
> > 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately
press
> > "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).
> >
> > > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> > ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told by the
> > previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".
> >
> > > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other times
> > > it wont engage. It
> > > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake
> >
> > Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my Jake
> > brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is malfunctioning.
> > During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on the
> > system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the DDEC
> > unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault in the
> > DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high settings).
> > The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.
> >
> > > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all the way
> > > around, rope light has
> > > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
> >
> > Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok, but
> > the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the light
> > and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are
> > probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced. I
> > mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night) and
> > once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.
> >
> > > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a broken
> > > valve, so I cant get good
> > > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to pressurize,
> > > by rigging the valve
> > > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
> >
> > You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water dump
> > valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual slide
> > valve behind the tall door.
> >
> > My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable
speed
> > pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion
tank. I
> > re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.
> >
> > I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com to
> > transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex tubing
> > and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)
fitting
> > -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-plumb
the
> > drain valve.
> >
> > > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little afraid
> > > to mess something up.
> > >
> > Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already
working.
> > To use it:
> > turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash. That
> > allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the 2000
> > watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore power.
> >
> > Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-intuitive:
> > turn on AC for heat.)
> >
> > Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a higher
> > temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out of
> > various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa. There
> > are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the fans
> > may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the basement and
> > a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40 degrees) on
> > the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in freezing
> > temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep the
> > plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.
> >
> > There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls an
> > electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot
> > (hydronic) heat.
> >
> > The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the side-
> > island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat). The
> > various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan noise,
> > depending.
> >
> > You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you should
> > hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below the
A-H
> > that will get quite warm when the burner is running.
> >
> > The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat for
> > domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power or on
> > the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if there's no
> > electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you never
> > run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).
> >
> > The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric element
> > can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at 16
> > gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner
running.
> >
> > When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine cooling
> > system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.
> >
> > You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as I
> > recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician. The
A-H
> > should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some other
> > burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain more
> > about the care and operation of the unit.
> >
> > Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow container) on
> > the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is properly
> > filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious
> > (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two years
> > I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional
> > coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note that
> > there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do not
> > use regular automotive coolant.)
> >
> > The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if I
> > recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not a big
> > drain on your fuel.
> >
> > >
> > > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is familiar
> > > with Bluebirds,
> > > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire coach
> > > with me and help with
> > > all my little questions.
> >
> > Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several folks who
> > can help you.
> >
> > Pete Masterson
> > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > El Sobrante CA
> > aeonix1@
> >
>
Quote this message in a reply
06-23-2008, 05:40
Post: #34
Maiden Voyage Complete!!!
Will do Stephen, Thanks

Corey
1996 PT42


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
wrote:
>
>
> Give me a call 1 888 668 4288
> stephen
> dupreeproducts.com
>
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "coreyg67" wrote:
> >
> > More questions.
> >
> > I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position,
so
> every time we turn
> > right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to
> repairing the guides, or are
> > they a replace only type item?
> >
> > I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs
for
> the coach. I have
> > thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find
> any light bulb info.
> > Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights?
I
> need just about every
> > bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in
> between. I'm hoping to
> > get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once
> rather than make 6
> > trips to the automotive supply house.
> >
> > Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and
get
> multiple keys to
> > the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going
> to spend the
> > afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread
> that is going around. I
> > noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I
> figure a good cleaning
> > is in order.
> >
> > Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be? I
am
> only getting 17psi
> > on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be
> closer to 24-25psi.
> >
> > Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!
> >
> > Corey and Jenni Graham
> > 1996 PT 42'
> > Prosper,TX
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:
> > >
> > > > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the
front
> > > > of the coach, replaced both
> > > > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the
sensors on
> > > > the bay doors, best I
> > > > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the
ground had
> > > > broken, but after fixing
> > > > ground, no luck still.
> > > > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was
> > > > disconnected, all seems
> > > > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather
uncomfortable
> > > > walking in and sleeping
> > > > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need
to
> > > > figure this out.
> > > >
> > > > I will begin to list some of the other problems.
> > > >
> > > > 1. no key for safe,
> > >
> > > Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith
to get
> > > in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was
famously
> > > used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.
> > >
> > > > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door,
although I
> > > > can hear it trying.
> > >
> > > Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The
> > > solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the
> least
> > > amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose
inside the
> > > door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that.
Be
> > > sure the door is tightly closed when you try.
> > >
> > > > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside
compartment,
> > > > although I can hear it
> > > > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays
> > >
> > > See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The
key
> > > to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.
> > >
> > > I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside
> cover
> > > on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then
clean
> > > and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if
you
> can
> > > hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no
sound,
> > > then there might be a loose wire.
> > >
> > > The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was
working)
> > > and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6
and
> > > 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately
> press
> > > "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).
> > >
> > > > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> > > ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told
by the
> > > previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".
> > >
> > > > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other
times
> > > > it wont engage. It
> > > > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake
> > >
> > > Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my
Jake
> > > brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is
malfunctioning.
> > > During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on
the
> > > system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the
DDEC
> > > unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault
in the
> > > DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high
settings).
> > > The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.
> > >
> > > > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all
the way
> > > > around, rope light has
> > > > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
> > >
> > > Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok,
but
> > > the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the
light
> > > and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are
> > > probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced.
I
> > > mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night)
and
> > > once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.
> > >
> > > > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a
broken
> > > > valve, so I cant get good
> > > > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to
pressurize,
> > > > by rigging the valve
> > > > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
> > >
> > > You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water
dump
> > > valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual
slide
> > > valve behind the tall door.
> > >
> > > My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable
> speed
> > > pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion
> tank. I
> > > re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.
> > >
> > > I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com
to
> > > transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex
tubing
> > > and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)
> fitting
> > > -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-
plumb
> the
> > > drain valve.
> > >
> > > > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little
afraid
> > > > to mess something up.
> > > >
> > > Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already
> working.
> > > To use it:
> > > turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash.
That
> > > allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the
2000
> > > watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore
power.
> > >
> > > Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-
intuitive:
> > > turn on AC for heat.)
> > >
> > > Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a
higher
> > > temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out
of
> > > various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa.
There
> > > are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the
fans
> > > may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the
basement and
> > > a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40
degrees) on
> > > the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in
freezing
> > > temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep
the
> > > plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.
> > >
> > > There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls
an
> > > electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot
> > > (hydronic) heat.
> > >
> > > The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the
side-
> > > island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat).
The
> > > various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan
noise,
> > > depending.
> > >
> > > You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you
should
> > > hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below
the
> A-H
> > > that will get quite warm when the burner is running.
> > >
> > > The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat
for
> > > domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power
or on
> > > the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if
there's no
> > > electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you
never
> > > run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).
> > >
> > > The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric
element
> > > can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at
16
> > > gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner
> running.
> > >
> > > When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine
cooling
> > > system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.
> > >
> > > You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as
I
> > > recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician.
The
> A-H
> > > should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some
other
> > > burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain
more
> > > about the care and operation of the unit.
> > >
> > > Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow
container) on
> > > the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is
properly
> > > filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious
> > > (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two
years
> > > I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional
> > > coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note
that
> > > there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do
not
> > > use regular automotive coolant.)
> > >
> > > The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if
I
> > > recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not
a big
> > > drain on your fuel.
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is
familiar
> > > > with Bluebirds,
> > > > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire
coach
> > > > with me and help with
> > > > all my little questions.
> > >
> > > Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several
folks who
> > > can help you.
> > >
> > > Pete Masterson
> > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > > El Sobrante CA
> > > aeonix1@
> > >
> >
>
Quote this message in a reply
06-23-2008, 05:52
Post: #35
Maiden Voyage Complete!!!
More questions for you guys!

I spent the majority of the weekend playing around with the coach to
try and correct some problems, as well as to better learn my way
around.

1. The propane tank shows to be a little over a 1/2 full, and I
verified this by removing the panel in the driver side bay and
looking at the guage on the tank itself. Problem is, I cant get the
fridge, or the princess cooktop to light. I have checked the main
valve at the tank, it is on. The LPG master switch is on, and the
detector pad under the kitchen cabinets has both lights green, so I'm
assuming this should tell me the valve is open, and all is
functioning correctly. I do have a second detector pad mounted to
the wall above the dinette, (driver side) but cannot get anything on
the pad to light up. any suggestions?

2. I fixed the leak on the freshwater system, but i don't totally
understand the operation of the switches in the water/sewage service
bay. No matter which way i have the switch flipped for the tank
fill, it appears that the tank continues to fill, and I cant get any
pressure from the city side of the system. So far I have had very
little luck getting any water to pump through the system at all. I'm
sure there is an easy method of setting this up properly, but I'm not
familiar with this system.

3. The front A/C unit is leaking water in the coach, so I'm assuming
the condensate drain is blocked. I have found the drain (i think)
for the middle and rear units, but dont know where the drain for the
front unit is located?

4. I'm working on the leveling system, and currently waiting for a
return call from HWH. I did find the brain for the system last night
in the bay and found three blown 15amp fuses. These were the three
fuses servicing the battery input, ignition input, and I don't recall
the last input. Hopefully if I can locate the cause of the blown
fuses, we will finally be able to level the coach. Does anyone have
any ideas where I should start to trouble shoot the fuse problem?

Thanks again everyone for all the help, this is so much fun to learn
my way around with your help!!

Corey & Jenni Graham
1996 PT 42'



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
wrote:
>
>
> Give me a call 1 888 668 4288
> stephen
> dupreeproducts.com
>
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "coreyg67" wrote:
> >
> > More questions.
> >
> > I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position,
so
> every time we turn
> > right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to
> repairing the guides, or are
> > they a replace only type item?
> >
> > I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs
for
> the coach. I have
> > thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find
> any light bulb info.
> > Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights?
I
> need just about every
> > bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in
> between. I'm hoping to
> > get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once
> rather than make 6
> > trips to the automotive supply house.
> >
> > Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and
get
> multiple keys to
> > the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going
> to spend the
> > afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread
> that is going around. I
> > noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I
> figure a good cleaning
> > is in order.
> >
> > Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be? I
am
> only getting 17psi
> > on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be
> closer to 24-25psi.
> >
> > Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!
> >
> > Corey and Jenni Graham
> > 1996 PT 42'
> > Prosper,TX
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:
> > >
> > > > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the
front
> > > > of the coach, replaced both
> > > > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the
sensors on
> > > > the bay doors, best I
> > > > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the
ground had
> > > > broken, but after fixing
> > > > ground, no luck still.
> > > > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was
> > > > disconnected, all seems
> > > > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather
uncomfortable
> > > > walking in and sleeping
> > > > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need
to
> > > > figure this out.
> > > >
> > > > I will begin to list some of the other problems.
> > > >
> > > > 1. no key for safe,
> > >
> > > Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith
to get
> > > in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was
famously
> > > used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.
> > >
> > > > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door,
although I
> > > > can hear it trying.
> > >
> > > Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The
> > > solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the
> least
> > > amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose
inside the
> > > door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that.
Be
> > > sure the door is tightly closed when you try.
> > >
> > > > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside
compartment,
> > > > although I can hear it
> > > > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays
> > >
> > > See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The
key
> > > to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.
> > >
> > > I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside
> cover
> > > on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then
clean
> > > and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if
you
> can
> > > hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no
sound,
> > > then there might be a loose wire.
> > >
> > > The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was
working)
> > > and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6
and
> > > 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately
> press
> > > "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).
> > >
> > > > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> > > ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told
by the
> > > previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".
> > >
> > > > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other
times
> > > > it wont engage. It
> > > > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake
> > >
> > > Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my
Jake
> > > brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is
malfunctioning.
> > > During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on
the
> > > system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the
DDEC
> > > unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault
in the
> > > DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high
settings).
> > > The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.
> > >
> > > > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all
the way
> > > > around, rope light has
> > > > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
> > >
> > > Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok,
but
> > > the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the
light
> > > and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are
> > > probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced.
I
> > > mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night)
and
> > > once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.
> > >
> > > > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a
broken
> > > > valve, so I cant get good
> > > > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to
pressurize,
> > > > by rigging the valve
> > > > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
> > >
> > > You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water
dump
> > > valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual
slide
> > > valve behind the tall door.
> > >
> > > My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable
> speed
> > > pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion
> tank. I
> > > re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.
> > >
> > > I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com
to
> > > transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex
tubing
> > > and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)
> fitting
> > > -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-
plumb
> the
> > > drain valve.
> > >
> > > > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little
afraid
> > > > to mess something up.
> > > >
> > > Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already
> working.
> > > To use it:
> > > turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash.
That
> > > allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the
2000
> > > watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore
power.
> > >
> > > Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-
intuitive:
> > > turn on AC for heat.)
> > >
> > > Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a
higher
> > > temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out
of
> > > various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa.
There
> > > are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the
fans
> > > may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the
basement and
> > > a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40
degrees) on
> > > the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in
freezing
> > > temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep
the
> > > plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.
> > >
> > > There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls
an
> > > electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot
> > > (hydronic) heat.
> > >
> > > The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the
side-
> > > island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat).
The
> > > various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan
noise,
> > > depending.
> > >
> > > You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you
should
> > > hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below
the
> A-H
> > > that will get quite warm when the burner is running.
> > >
> > > The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat
for
> > > domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power
or on
> > > the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if
there's no
> > > electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you
never
> > > run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).
> > >
> > > The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric
element
> > > can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at
16
> > > gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner
> running.
> > >
> > > When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine
cooling
> > > system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.
> > >
> > > You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as
I
> > > recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician.
The
> A-H
> > > should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some
other
> > > burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain
more
> > > about the care and operation of the unit.
> > >
> > > Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow
container) on
> > > the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is
properly
> > > filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious
> > > (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two
years
> > > I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional
> > > coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note
that
> > > there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do
not
> > > use regular automotive coolant.)
> > >
> > > The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if
I
> > > recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not
a big
> > > drain on your fuel.
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is
familiar
> > > > with Bluebirds,
> > > > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire
coach
> > > > with me and help with
> > > > all my little questions.
> > >
> > > Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several
folks who
> > > can help you.
> > >
> > > Pete Masterson
> > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > > El Sobrante CA
> > > aeonix1@
> > >
> >
>
Quote this message in a reply
06-23-2008, 06:30
Post: #36
Maiden Voyage Complete!!!
Corey,

On my older unit, there is a valve under the cooktop cover and
another value behind the refrigerator.

My fresh water fill switch is pneumatic....must have air in the Aux
system to work.

If your A/Cs are rooftop, see if you can access the drain from the
roof with a compressed air nozzle.

I don't have any insight to your leveling problems.

Glenn
1986 PT-40
Marietta, GA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "coreyg67"
wrote:
>
> More questions for you guys!
>
> I spent the majority of the weekend playing around with the coach
to
> try and correct some problems, as well as to better learn my way
> around.
>
> 1. The propane tank shows to be a little over a 1/2 full, and I
> verified this by removing the panel in the driver side bay and
> looking at the guage on the tank itself. Problem is, I cant get
the
> fridge, or the princess cooktop to light. I have checked the main
> valve at the tank, it is on. The LPG master switch is on, and the
> detector pad under the kitchen cabinets has both lights green, so
I'm
> assuming this should tell me the valve is open, and all is
> functioning correctly. I do have a second detector pad mounted to
> the wall above the dinette, (driver side) but cannot get anything
on
> the pad to light up. any suggestions?
>
> 2. I fixed the leak on the freshwater system, but i don't totally
> understand the operation of the switches in the water/sewage
service
> bay. No matter which way i have the switch flipped for the tank
> fill, it appears that the tank continues to fill, and I cant get
any
> pressure from the city side of the system. So far I have had very
> little luck getting any water to pump through the system at all.
I'm
> sure there is an easy method of setting this up properly, but I'm
not
> familiar with this system.
>
> 3. The front A/C unit is leaking water in the coach, so I'm
assuming
> the condensate drain is blocked. I have found the drain (i think)
> for the middle and rear units, but dont know where the drain for
the
> front unit is located?
>
> 4. I'm working on the leveling system, and currently waiting for
a
> return call from HWH. I did find the brain for the system last
night
> in the bay and found three blown 15amp fuses. These were the
three
> fuses servicing the battery input, ignition input, and I don't
recall
> the last input. Hopefully if I can locate the cause of the blown
> fuses, we will finally be able to level the coach. Does anyone
have
> any ideas where I should start to trouble shoot the fuse problem?
>
> Thanks again everyone for all the help, this is so much fun to
learn
> my way around with your help!!
>
> Corey & Jenni Graham
> 1996 PT 42'
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Give me a call 1 888 668 4288
> > stephen
> > dupreeproducts.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "coreyg67"
wrote:
> > >
> > > More questions.
> > >
> > > I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked
position,
> so
> > every time we turn
> > > right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to
> > repairing the guides, or are
> > > they a replace only type item?
> > >
> > > I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement
bulbs
> for
> > the coach. I have
> > > thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant
find
> > any light bulb info.
> > > Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for
lights?
> I
> > need just about every
> > > bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in
> > between. I'm hoping to
> > > get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at
once
> > rather than make 6
> > > trips to the automotive supply house.
> > >
> > > Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything
and
> get
> > multiple keys to
> > > the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am
going
> > to spend the
> > > afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps
thread
> > that is going around. I
> > > noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I
> > figure a good cleaning
> > > is in order.
> > >
> > > Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be?
I
> am
> > only getting 17psi
> > > on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would
be
> > closer to 24-25psi.
> > >
> > > Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!
> > >
> > > Corey and Jenni Graham
> > > 1996 PT 42'
> > > Prosper,TX
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson

> > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from
the
> front
> > > > > of the coach, replaced both
> > > > > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the
> sensors on
> > > > > the bay doors, best I
> > > > > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the
> ground had
> > > > > broken, but after fixing
> > > > > ground, no luck still.
> > > > > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire
was
> > > > > disconnected, all seems
> > > > > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather
> uncomfortable
> > > > > walking in and sleeping
> > > > > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really
need
> to
> > > > > figure this out.
> > > > >
> > > > > I will begin to list some of the other problems.
> > > > >
> > > > > 1. no key for safe,
> > > >
> > > > Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a
locksmith
> to get
> > > > in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was
> famously
> > > > used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.
> > > >
> > > > > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door,
> although I
> > > > > can hear it trying.
> > > >
> > > > Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch.
The
> > > > solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even
the
> > least
> > > > amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose
> inside the
> > > > door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on
that.
> Be
> > > > sure the door is tightly closed when you try.
> > > >
> > > > > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside
> compartment,
> > > > > although I can hear it
> > > > > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays
> > > >
> > > > See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays.
The
> key
> > > > to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my
coach.
> > > >
> > > > I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the
inside
> > cover
> > > > on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) --
then
> clean
> > > > and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then
(if
> you
> > can
> > > > hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's
no
> sound,
> > > > then there might be a loose wire.
> > > >
> > > > The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was
> working)
> > > > and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons
(5/6
> and
> > > > 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then
immediately
> > press
> > > > "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).
> > > >
> > > > > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> > > > ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was
told
> by the
> > > > previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".
> > > >
> > > > > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then
other
> times
> > > > > it wont engage. It
> > > > > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake
brake
> > > >
> > > > Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my
> Jake
> > > > brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is
> malfunctioning.
> > > > During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer
on
> the
> > > > system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the
> DDEC
> > > > unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the
fault
> in the
> > > > DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high
> settings).
> > > > The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.
> > > >
> > > > > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all
> the way
> > > > > around, rope light has
> > > > > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
> > > >
> > > > Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were
ok,
> but
> > > > the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the
> light
> > > > and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights
are
> > > > probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be
replaced.
> I
> > > > mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at
night)
> and
> > > > once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.
> > > >
> > > > > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a
> broken
> > > > > valve, so I cant get good
> > > > > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to
> pressurize,
> > > > > by rigging the valve
> > > > > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
> > > >
> > > > You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh
water
> dump
> > > > valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual
> slide
> > > > valve behind the tall door.
> > > >
> > > > My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single
variable
> > speed
> > > > pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion
> > tank. I
> > > > re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.
> > > >
> > > > I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com
> to
> > > > transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex
> tubing
> > > > and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)
> > fitting
> > > > -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-
> plumb
> > the
> > > > drain valve.
> > > >
> > > > > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a
little
> afraid
> > > > > to mess something up.
> > > > >
> > > > Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already
> > working.
> > > > To use it:
> > > > turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the
dash.
> That
> > > > allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the
> 2000
> > > > watt electric element that works when you're plugged into
shore
> power.
> > > >
> > > > Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-
> intuitive:
> > > > turn on AC for heat.)
> > > >
> > > > Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to
a
> higher
> > > > temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming
out
> of
> > > > various places. Under the galley and probably under the
sofa.
> There
> > > > are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of
the
> fans
> > > > may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the
> basement and
> > > > a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40
> degrees) on
> > > > the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in
> freezing
> > > > temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and
keep
> the
> > > > plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.
> > > >
> > > > There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One
controls
> an
> > > > electric toe kick space heater the other controls the
aquahot
> > > > (hydronic) heat.
> > > >
> > > > The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the
> side-
> > > > island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat).
> The
> > > > various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan
> noise,
> > > > depending.
> > > >
> > > > You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you
> should
> > > > hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just
below
> the
> > A-H
> > > > that will get quite warm when the burner is running.
> > > >
> > > > The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives
heat
> for
> > > > domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore
power
> or on
> > > > the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if
> there's no
> > > > electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so
you
> never
> > > > run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).
> > > >
> > > > The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric
> element
> > > > can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot
at
> 16
> > > > gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the
burner
> > running.
> > > >
> > > > When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine
> cooling
> > > > system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.
> > > >
> > > > You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area
as
> I
> > > > recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service
technician.
> The
> > A-H
> > > > should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some
> other
> > > > burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can
explain
> more
> > > > about the care and operation of the unit.
> > > >
> > > > Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow
> container) on
> > > > the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is
> properly
> > > > filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk
serious
> > > > (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the
two
> years
> > > > I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any
additional
> > > > coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60.
(Note
> that
> > > > there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 --
do
> not
> > > > use regular automotive coolant.)
> > > >
> > > > The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour
(if
> I
> > > > recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's
not
> a big
> > > > drain on your fuel.
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is
> familiar
> > > > > with Bluebirds,
> > > > > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire
> coach
> > > > > with me and help with
> > > > > all my little questions.
> > > >
> > > > Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several
> folks who
> > > > can help you.
> > > >
> > > > Pete Masterson
> > > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > > > El Sobrante CA
> > > > aeonix1@
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Quote this message in a reply
06-23-2008, 06:50
Post: #37
Maiden Voyage Complete!!!
Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
"aeonix1@mac.com"


On Jun 23, 2008, at 10:52 AM, coreyg67 wrote:

More questions for you guys!
<snip> (I don't have LP Gas, so I can't advise on that point).
2.  I fixed the leak on the freshwater system, but i don't totally 
understand the operation of the switches in the water/sewage service 
bay.  No matter which way i have the switch flipped for the tank 
fill, it appears that the tank continues to fill, and I cant get any 
pressure from the city side of the system.  So far I have had very 
little luck getting any water to pump through the system at all.  I'm 
sure there is an easy method of setting this up properly, but I'm not 
familiar with this system.
Fill tank: Pump off. Fill switch on. No (or minimal) water pressure in coach plumbing.
City water: Pump off, fill switch off. Should have about 45# pressure in coach plumbing. BB has a built in pressure reducer at the water inlet. Both the fill and internal plumbing are limited to 45 psi.
Tank Water. No input from shore (disconnect hose). Turn pump on. If tank has water, you will have whatever pressure the pump provides.
If it isn't working like this, then there are "problems" that need to be checked.
The fill tank switch activates an infamous Sporlan valve. These sometimes need to be cleaned or have the internal seal replaced. If the Sporlan valve isn't working right, the tank won't fill (when the fill switch is on) or the tank will fill and the city water will never reach the internal plumbing. (i.e. the Sporlan can be "stuck" in either position.)
Running the pump while the fill switch is on will cause it to run constantly as the system won't pressurize and cycle the pump off. I don't think the internal plumbing will have significant pressure in this situation.
Note that some owners, having had trouble with the Sporlan valve (hard water build up is a source of ongoing problems) have taken the Sporlan out of the system and then the 'city water' only fills the tank and all internal water pressure is provided by the pump only.
Look near the pump to ensure that the Sporlan valve (it's brass and silver, if I recall correctly) is located on the bulkhead wall near the pumps.
3.  The front A/C unit is leaking water in the coach, so I'm assuming 
the condensate drain is blocked.  I have found the drain (i think) 
for the middle and rear units, but dont know where the drain for the 
front unit is located?
4.  I'm working on the leveling system, and currently waiting for a 
return call from HWH.  I did find the brain for the system last night 
in the bay and found three blown 15amp fuses.  These were the three 
fuses servicing the battery input, ignition input, and I don't recall 
the last input.  Hopefully if I can locate the cause of the blown 
fuses, we will finally be able to level the coach.  Does anyone have 
any ideas where I should start to trouble shoot the fuse problem?
Thanks again everyone for all the help, this is so much fun to learn 
my way around with your help!!
Corey & Jenni Graham
1996 PT 42'
--- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com", "Stephen Birtles" 
wrote:
Give me a call  1 888 668 4288
 stephen  
dupreeproducts.com
--- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com", "coreyg67" wrote:
More questions.
I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position, 
so
every time we turn 
right, the drawers come flying open.  Is there any trick to
repairing the guides, or are 
they a replace only type item?  
I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs 
for
the coach.  I have 
thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find
any light bulb info.  
Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights?  
I
need just about every 
bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in
between.  I'm hoping to 
get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once
rather than make 6 
trips to the automotive supply house.
Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and 
get
multiple keys to 
the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going
to spend the 
afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread
that is going around.  I 
noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I
figure a good cleaning 
is in order.
Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be?  I 
am
only getting 17psi 
on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be
closer to 24-25psi.
Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!
Corey and Jenni Graham
1996 PT 42'
Prosper,TX
--- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com", Pete Masterson
wrote:
On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:
Still no luck on the levelers.  I pulled the panel from the 
front  
of the coach, replaced both
fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck.  Checked all the 
sensors on  
the bay doors, best I
can tell, all are functioning.  I did find two that the 
ground had  
broken, but after fixing
ground, no luck still.
Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was  
disconnected, all seems
proper.  So now I'm starting to worry.  It is rather 
uncomfortable  
walking in and sleeping
in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need 
to  
figure this out.
I will begin to list some of the other problems.
1. no key for safe,
Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith 
to get  
in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was 
famously  
used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.
2. door lock button for front door will not lock door, 
although I  
can hear it trying.
Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The  
solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the
least  
amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose 
inside the  
door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that. 
Be  
sure the door is tightly closed when you try.
3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside 
compartment,  
although I can hear it
trying to.  This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays
See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The 
key  
to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.
I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside
cover  
on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then 
clean  
and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if 
you
can  
hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no 
sound,  
then there might be a loose wire.
The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was 
working)  
and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6 
and  
7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately
press  
"6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).
4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told 
by the  
previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".
5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other 
times  
it wont engage.  It
will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake
Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my 
Jake  
brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is 
malfunctioning.  
During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on 
the  
system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the 
DDEC  
unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault 
in the  
DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high 
settings).  
The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.
6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all 
the way  
around, rope light has
several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok, 
but  
the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the 
light  
and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are  
probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced. 
I  
mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night) 
and  
once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.
7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a 
broken  
valve, so I cant get good
pressure from the fresh water system.  I did get it to 
pressurize,  
by rigging the valve
shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water 
dump  
valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual 
slide  
valve behind the tall door.
My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable
speed  
pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion
tank. I  
re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.
I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com 
to  
transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex 
tubing  
and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)
fitting  
-- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-
plumb
the  
drain valve.
8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little 
afraid  
to mess something up.
Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already
working.  
To use it:
turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash. 
That  
allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the 
2000  
watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore 
power.
Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-
intuitive:  
turn on AC for heat.)
Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a 
higher  
temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out 
of  
various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa. 
There  
are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the 
fans  
may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the 
basement and  
a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40 
degrees) on  
the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in 
freezing  
temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep 
the  
plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.
There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls 
an  
electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot  
(hydronic) heat.
The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the 
side- 
island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat). 
The  
various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan 
noise,  
depending.
You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you 
should  
hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below 
the
A-H  
that will get quite warm when the burner is running.
The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat 
for  
domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power 
or on  
the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if 
there's no  
electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you 
never  
run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).
The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric 
element  
can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at 
16  
gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner
running.
When you're on the road,  the A-H gets heat from the engine 
cooling  
system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.
You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as 
I  
recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician. 
The
A-H  
should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some 
other  
burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain 
more  
about the care and operation of the unit.
Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow 
container) on  
the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is 
properly  
filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious  
(expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two 
years  
I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional  
coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note 
that  
there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do 
not  
use regular automotive coolant.)
The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if 
I  
recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not 
a big  
drain on your fuel.
I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is 
familiar  
with Bluebirds,
preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire 
coach  
with me and help with
all my little questions.
Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several 
folks who  
can help you.
Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
aeonix1@
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Quote this message in a reply
06-23-2008, 07:05
Post: #38
Maiden Voyage Complete!!!
On Jun 23, 2008, at 10:52 AM, coreyg67 wrote:
<snip>
Sorry, I clicked the send button before I finished....
3.  The front A/C unit is leaking water in the coach, so I'm assuming 
the condensate drain is blocked.  I have found the drain (i think) 
for the middle and rear units, but dont know where the drain for the 
front unit is located?
There's two tubes, one on each side. They're near the front wheels. I found by curb side tube had some rust and debris that clogged the one-way valve on the end. I cut off the one-way valve and it drained. Works fine now.
It's easiest to go on the roof, take off the plastic cover and use air pressure to blow out the lines from the top. This will also give you a chance to clean out around the AC and lubricate the motors (if they're not sealed bearings). Be sure to check that the condenser fins are clean as mud daubers, etc. may have built nests. (Some say to do this at the beginning of each season.) 
It is also possible that the seal around the AC opening has degraded. You can get new seals at Camping World or other RV supply places. Replacing it requires lifting the AC from it's mounting (there's screws and clamps to remove both inside and outside the coach). Best if two people lift the AC -- it's heavy.
4.  I'm working on the leveling system, and currently waiting for a 
return call from HWH. 
Since I've had no serious issues with my HWH, can't say. I do know that HWH technical support is very good and they did help me with a relatively minor problem. 
I wasn't satisfied with the quality or consistency of the leveling and thought the sensor in the basement needed adjusting, so I called to get the procedure. After discussing it with them, I determined that the level was "in spec" and that adjustment of the sensor was unlikely to improve the initial level or consistency. 
I now check the level manually once the HWH has finished its automatic run. Then I "tweak" the level manually if it doesn't meet my preferences. On my coach, the curb side tends to end up high by about 1/4 bubble about half the time. A momentary press of the "down" button for that side usually brings it to near-perfect level. Front to rear is often a trifle off, but that's much less annoying than the side-to-side position.
HWH told me that within about 1/4 bubble is about as accurate as you can get automatically.
Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
"aeonix1@mac.com"
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06-23-2008, 07:20
Post: #39
Maiden Voyage Complete!!!
Corey,

You should also have a toggle swithch at the propane fill on the
roadside fueling door. I don't know if up is on or off mine isn't
marked and I have to fool with it everytime I fill the Propane tank.
It shoud be set to on as well as the gas on inside the coach, if I am
correct. My system is also kinda finicky. The sporland valve is the
problem. Sometimes the only way I can restart the gas is by turning
on and off the AT, ( Anti-Theft ), switch on the dash. It should be
next to the Wanderlodge logo in the center just below the Amp. gauge.
All it does is kill all the DC systems. Sometimes it helps in getting
the valve to open. Also you might try hitting the test buttom on the
gas detector, but get ready becaude it is LOUD


You should have a three of four position switch in the bathroon that
turns on the pumps. It's usually under a cabinet, mine is just above
the commode, under a medicine cabinet. There is also a pump switch on
the console above the drivers seat around the Generator start switch.
Don't forget to turn off the water fill switch in the Water/Sewage
Bay.


The front AC has two drains just behind the front wheel wells on each
side. They are small red plastic tubes. Hunt around you'll find them.
I tried to clear mine by blowing compressed air up the tubes. It
didn't work. I ended up sealing the drains at the AC on the roof. Not
a great fix I get water comming off the roof and down the side
drivers window and when conditions are correct it will blow onto the
windshield.

I no help on the levelers.

Kurt Horvath
95 PT-42 WLWB
Fayetteville TN
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06-23-2008, 07:26
Post: #40
Maiden Voyage Complete!!!
Pete,

There is a one way valve on the end on the drain tubes??????

How far up are they?

I tried to clear them and had no luck. My BB GURU told me to block the
drain up at the roof. I did and it stopped leaking inside the coach.

Now I get AC runoff on the drivers window and sometime a vortex makes
it hit the windshield as I'm driving, very annoying.

Kurt Horvath
95PT-42 WLWB
10AC
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