94pt 'cool o matic' gally exhaust fan

[Gregory OConnor]

My center exhaust fan is a 12 volt roof mount exhaust. I keep it
running on a wall mounted thermostat(as designed) set at 90degF
with a window open and a cheap home style heater duct filter in the
window. works good, the filter gets choked with dust that would
otherwise settle in the parked bus or fan blades and motor(should
have a window open at each end but am too lazy).

I took the fan housing apart to clean and lube a noisy bearing and
uncovered a stowed three speed switch under the fan. the switch says
potentiometer and has two springs at back which I believe are heat
sinks (they get hot). I would like to have access to the switch to
reduce the speed while drycamping (layoff Leroy) and conserve
battery. I also like the idea of a slower moving fan while stored
and unattended and a higher speed fan while cooking.

I was thinking of hard wireing around the switch and moving the
potentiometer/switch to the wall near the thermostat . if you have
the switch where the fan mfg designed (thru a hole in the cover) you
cant slid in the headliner blank. Prob with moving the switch is
the "heat sink" in the wall???? I dont even know if the thermostat
has a wire 'to the fan' or 'to a relay - to the fan'??? also of
concern is the need for a heat sink?? does a product that produce
heat (pot switch),not consume energy?? would a rheostat be a better
choice for the wall??? gotta learn more about potentiometer vs
rheostat, both cool words but must be more to their differences.

Greg94ptCa

[Curt Sprenger]

Greg,

Replace the cool-0-matic with an Fantastic Fan, the rain sensor, 3 speed, in/out. Wire it to the same cool-O-matic thermostat wires. You'll have a new fan and more light in the kitchen.

On Tue, Sep 30, 2008 at 7:55 AM, Gregory OConnor <"Gregoryoc@aol.com"> wrote:

My center exhaust fan is a 12 volt roof mount exhaust. I keep it

running on a wall mounted thermostat(as designed) set at 90degF

with a window open and a cheap home style heater duct filter in the

window. works good, the filter gets choked with dust that would

otherwise settle in the parked bus or fan blades and motor(should

have a window open at each end but am too lazy).



I took the fan housing apart to clean and lube a noisy bearing and

uncovered a stowed three speed switch under the fan. the switch says

potentiometer and has two springs at back which I believe are heat

sinks (they get hot). I would like to have access to the switch to

reduce the speed while drycamping (layoff Leroy) and conserve

battery. I also like the idea of a slower moving fan while stored

and unattended and a higher speed fan while cooking.



I was thinking of hard wireing around the switch and moving the

potentiometer/switch to the wall near the thermostat . if you have

the switch where the fan mfg designed (thru a hole in the cover) you

cant slid in the headliner blank. Prob with moving the switch is

the "heat sink" in the wall???? I dont even know if the thermostat

has a wire 'to the fan' or 'to a relay - to the fan'??? also of

concern is the need for a heat sink?? does a product that produce

heat (pot switch),not consume energy?? would a rheostat be a better

choice for the wall??? gotta learn more about potentiometer vs

rheostat, both cool words but must be more to their differences.



Greg94ptCa

--
Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, CA

[Pete Masterson]

The Fantastic Fan as a replacement makes sense ... but I like the
cool-o-matic because it allows me to run the fan (and get
ventilation) even if its raining.

Does anyone have info about "Maxxaire" or other alternatives that
might allow all-weather use of the fan?

Note, my cool-o-matic quit a few days ago. I'm not sure if it's the
thermostat or the fan itself -- or a fuse (anybody know where the
fuse is?). (I don't know when I'll have time to do a full trouble-
shooting on the fan while we're on the road...)

Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
aeonix1@...
On the road near Scranton, PA



On Sep 30, 2008, at 11:25 AM, Curt Sprenger wrote:

> Greg,
>
> Replace the cool-0-matic with an Fantastic Fan, the rain sensor, 3
> speed, in/out. Wire it to the same cool-O-matic thermostat wires.
> You'll have a new fan and more light in the kitchen.
>
> On Tue, Sep 30, 2008 at 7:55 AM, Gregory OConnor
> wrote:
> My center exhaust fan is a 12 volt roof mount exhaust. I keep it
> running on a wall mounted thermostat(as designed) set at 90degF
> with a window open and a cheap home style heater duct filter in the
> window. works good, the filter gets choked with dust that would
> otherwise settle in the parked bus or fan blades and motor(should
> have a window open at each end but am too lazy).
>
> I took the fan housing apart to clean and lube a noisy bearing and
> uncovered a stowed three speed switch under the fan. the switch says
> potentiometer and has two springs at back which I believe are heat
> sinks (they get hot). I would like to have access to the switch to
> reduce the speed while drycamping (layoff Leroy) and conserve
> battery. I also like the idea of a slower moving fan while stored
> and unattended and a higher speed fan while cooking.
>
> I was thinking of hard wireing around the switch and moving the
> potentiometer/switch to the wall near the thermostat . if you have
> the switch where the fan mfg designed (thru a hole in the cover) you
> cant slid in the headliner blank. Prob with moving the switch is
> the "heat sink" in the wall???? I dont even know if the thermostat
> has a wire 'to the fan' or 'to a relay - to the fan'??? also of
> concern is the need for a heat sink?? does a product that produce
> heat (pot switch),not consume energy?? would a rheostat be a better
> choice for the wall??? gotta learn more about potentiometer vs
> rheostat, both cool words but must be more to their differences.
>
> Greg94ptCa
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Curt Sprenger
> 1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
> Anaheim Hills, CA
>

[Rob Robinson]

I have a Fantastic Fan in the bathroom and it works well. However, my Koolmatic in the kitchen has enough suck to remove the chrome off the stove knobs. For me the best system is having both fan types. To overcome the problem of difficult cleaning of the Koolmatic vent vanes I removed the vanes completely and just use the sliding panel to close up the well when not needed. This also has the benefit of giving you access to the variable speed control so that you have a three speed Koolmatic instead of a single speed. Happy now Greg?

2008/9/30 Pete Masterson <"aeonix1@mac.com">

The Fantastic Fan as a replacement makes sense ... but I like the
cool-o-matic because it allows me to run the fan (and get
ventilation) even if its raining.

Does anyone have info about "Maxxaire" or other alternatives that

might allow all-weather use of the fan?

Note, my cool-o-matic quit a few days ago. I'm not sure if it's the
thermostat or the fan itself -- or a fuse (anybody know where the
fuse is?). (I don't know when I'll have time to do a full trouble-

shooting on the fan while we're on the road...)

Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
"aeonix1%40mac.com"
On the road near Scranton, PA


On Sep 30, 2008, at 11:25 AM, Curt Sprenger wrote:

> Greg,
>
> Replace the cool-0-matic with an Fantastic Fan, the rain sensor, 3
> speed, in/out. Wire it to the same cool-O-matic thermostat wires.

> You'll have a new fan and more light in the kitchen.
>
> On Tue, Sep 30, 2008 at 7:55 AM, Gregory OConnor
> <"Gregoryoc%40aol.com"> wrote:

> My center exhaust fan is a 12 volt roof mount exhaust. I keep it
> running on a wall mounted thermostat(as designed) set at 90degF
> with a window open and a cheap home style heater duct filter in the

> window. works good, the filter gets choked with dust that would
> otherwise settle in the parked bus or fan blades and motor(should
> have a window open at each end but am too lazy).
>
> I took the fan housing apart to clean and lube a noisy bearing and

> uncovered a stowed three speed switch under the fan. the switch says
> potentiometer and has two springs at back which I believe are heat
> sinks (they get hot). I would like to have access to the switch to

> reduce the speed while drycamping (layoff Leroy) and conserve
> battery. I also like the idea of a slower moving fan while stored
> and unattended and a higher speed fan while cooking.
>
> I was thinking of hard wireing around the switch and moving the

> potentiometer/switch to the wall near the thermostat . if you have
> the switch where the fan mfg designed (thru a hole in the cover) you
> cant slid in the headliner blank. Prob with moving the switch is

> the "heat sink" in the wall???? I dont even know if the thermostat
> has a wire 'to the fan' or 'to a relay - to the fan'??? also of
> concern is the need for a heat sink?? does a product that produce

> heat (pot switch),not consume energy?? would a rheostat be a better
> choice for the wall??? gotta learn more about potentiometer vs
> rheostat, both cool words but must be more to their differences.
>

> Greg94ptCa
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Curt Sprenger
> 1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
> Anaheim Hills, CA
>

--
Rob, Sue & Merlin Robinson

94 WLWB

[sfedeli3]

Hi Greg,

A wall-mounted rheostat would look nice, but you could easily conceal
a simple GM headlight switch up in the fan assembly, but below the
blades. This would allow you to manually override the wall thermostat
and also regulate speed with the "dimmer" circuit on the switch. Most
of those old switches are available at auto parts stores for around
$8. If they can handle headlight voltage, a fan should be no sweat.

Shane Fedeli
85PT40
Hershey, PA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
wrote:
>
> My center exhaust fan is a 12 volt roof mount exhaust. I keep it
> running on a wall mounted thermostat(as designed) set at 90degF
> with a window open and a cheap home style heater duct filter in the
> window. works good, the filter gets choked with dust that would
> otherwise settle in the parked bus or fan blades and motor(should
> have a window open at each end but am too lazy).
>
> I took the fan housing apart to clean and lube a noisy bearing and
> uncovered a stowed three speed switch under the fan. the switch says
> potentiometer and has two springs at back which I believe are heat
> sinks (they get hot). I would like to have access to the switch to
> reduce the speed while drycamping (layoff Leroy) and conserve
> battery. I also like the idea of a slower moving fan while stored
> and unattended and a higher speed fan while cooking.
>
> I was thinking of hard wireing around the switch and moving the
> potentiometer/switch to the wall near the thermostat . if you have
> the switch where the fan mfg designed (thru a hole in the cover) you
> cant slid in the headliner blank. Prob with moving the switch is
> the "heat sink" in the wall???? I dont even know if the thermostat
> has a wire 'to the fan' or 'to a relay - to the fan'??? also of
> concern is the need for a heat sink?? does a product that produce
> heat (pot switch),not consume energy?? would a rheostat be a better
> choice for the wall??? gotta learn more about potentiometer vs
> rheostat, both cool words but must be more to their differences.
>
> Greg94ptCa
>

[Gregory OConnor]

Kool o matic fan fuse on 94pt is
front overhead component panel circuit block A "sk5"
above driver ,in cabinet block close to street side,

to turn on the fan you need to play wit the center thermostat
try puttining one switch to cool and the fan on auto with the
thermostat on a low temp setting. to have it run on auto you need to
pick cool I guess it keeps from exhaustinng generated heat.
Greg94pt

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
wrote:
>
> The Fantastic Fan as a replacement makes sense ... but I like the
> cool-o-matic because it allows me to run the fan (and get
> ventilation) even if its raining.
>
> Does anyone have info about "Maxxaire" or other alternatives that
> might allow all-weather use of the fan?
>
> Note, my cool-o-matic quit a few days ago. I'm not sure if it's
the
> thermostat or the fan itself -- or a fuse (anybody know where the
> fuse is?). (I don't know when I'll have time to do a full trouble-
> shooting on the fan while we're on the road...)
>
> Pete Masterson
> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> aeonix1@...
> On the road near Scranton, PA
>
>
>
> On Sep 30, 2008, at 11:25 AM, Curt Sprenger wrote:
>
> > Greg,
> >
> > Replace the cool-0-matic with an Fantastic Fan, the rain sensor,
3
> > speed, in/out. Wire it to the same cool-O-matic thermostat
wires.
> > You'll have a new fan and more light in the kitchen.
> >
> > On Tue, Sep 30, 2008 at 7:55 AM, Gregory OConnor
> > wrote:
> > My center exhaust fan is a 12 volt roof mount exhaust. I keep it
> > running on a wall mounted thermostat(as designed) set at 90degF
> > with a window open and a cheap home style heater duct filter in
the
> > window. works good, the filter gets choked with dust that would
> > otherwise settle in the parked bus or fan blades and motor(should
> > have a window open at each end but am too lazy).
> >
> > I took the fan housing apart to clean and lube a noisy bearing
and
> > uncovered a stowed three speed switch under the fan. the switch
says
> > potentiometer and has two springs at back which I believe are
heat
> > sinks (they get hot). I would like to have access to the switch
to
> > reduce the speed while drycamping (layoff Leroy) and conserve
> > battery. I also like the idea of a slower moving fan while stored
> > and unattended and a higher speed fan while cooking.
> >
> > I was thinking of hard wireing around the switch and moving the
> > potentiometer/switch to the wall near the thermostat . if you
have
> > the switch where the fan mfg designed (thru a hole in the cover)
you
> > cant slid in the headliner blank. Prob with moving the switch is
> > the "heat sink" in the wall???? I dont even know if the
thermostat
> > has a wire 'to the fan' or 'to a relay - to the fan'??? also of
> > concern is the need for a heat sink?? does a product that produce
> > heat (pot switch),not consume energy?? would a rheostat be a
better
> > choice for the wall??? gotta learn more about potentiometer vs
> > rheostat, both cool words but must be more to their differences.
> >
> > Greg94ptCa
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Curt Sprenger
> > 1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
> > Anaheim Hills, CA
> >
>

[Gregory OConnor]

Curt, the problem with FantasticFan is they give out parats for free.
7billion dollars of freeparts later, the repairs of the faults of few
are bourne by all of us.

Rob, that sound good but most americans are taller than 5 foot. now Im
happy.

Shane, I like the idea of keeping the pot switch thing in the airstream
and making it simple. maybe I can make the hole in the vent larger and
fashion a knob for the existing setup.

thanks

Greg94ptCa

[Bryan Altier]

Pete,

My cool=o=matic quit this past spring, I checked voltage and found that there was power to the motor but still not running. I took the motor out and was going to replace but the one at Granger was just a little different in size so for $35.00 I had the motor rebuild and it runs like a clock. Are you getting power to the motor?

Bryan Altier

88 WLWB

Greenville, SC

----- Original Message -----

From: "Gregoryoc@aol.com"

To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 3:35 PM

Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 94pt 'cool o matic' gally exhaust fan

Kool o matic fan fuse on 94pt is
front overhead component panel circuit block A "sk5"
above driver ,in cabinet block close to street side,

to turn on the fan you need to play wit the center thermostat
try puttining one switch to cool and the fan on auto with the
thermostat on a low temp setting. to have it run on auto you need to
pick cool I guess it keeps from exhaustinng generated heat.
Greg94pt

--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", Pete Masterson
> wrote:
>
> The Fantastic Fan as a replacement makes sense ... but I like the
> cool-o-matic because it allows me to run the fan (and get
> ventilation) even if its raining.
>
> Does anyone have info about "Maxxaire" or other alternatives that
> might allow all-weather use of the fan?
>
> Note, my cool-o-matic quit a few days ago. I'm not sure if it's
the
> thermostat or the fan itself -- or a fuse (anybody know where the
> fuse is?). (I don't know when I'll have time to do a full trouble-
> shooting on the fan while we're on the road...)
>
> Pete Masterson
> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> aeonix1@...
> On the road near Scranton, PA
>
>
>
> On Sep 30, 2008, at 11:25 AM, Curt Sprenger wrote:
>
> > Greg,
> >
> > Replace the cool-0-matic with an Fantastic Fan, the rain sensor,
3
> > speed, in/out. Wire it to the same cool-O-matic thermostat
wires.
> > You'll have a new fan and more light in the kitchen.
> >
> > On Tue, Sep 30, 2008 at 7:55 AM, Gregory OConnor
> > ..> wrote:
> > My center exhaust fan is a 12 volt roof mount exhaust. I keep it
> > running on a wall mounted thermostat(as designed) set at 90degF
> > with a window open and a cheap home style heater duct filter in
the
> > window. works good, the filter gets choked with dust that would
> > otherwise settle in the parked bus or fan blades and motor(should
> > have a window open at each end but am too lazy).
> >
> > I took the fan housing apart to clean and lube a noisy bearing
and
> > uncovered a stowed three speed switch under the fan. the switch
says
> > potentiometer and has two springs at back which I believe are
heat
> > sinks (they get hot). I would like to have access to the switch
to
> > reduce the speed while drycamping (layoff Leroy) and conserve
> > battery. I also like the idea of a slower moving fan while stored
> > and unattended and a higher speed fan while cooking.
> >
> > I was thinking of hard wireing around the switch and moving the
> > potentiometer/switch to the wall near the thermostat . if you
have
> > the switch where the fan mfg designed (thru a hole in the cover)
you
> > cant slid in the headliner blank. Prob with moving the switch is
> > the "heat sink" in the wall???? I dont even know if the
thermostat
> > has a wire 'to the fan' or 'to a relay - to the fan'??? also of
> > concern is the need for a heat sink?? does a product that produce
> > heat (pot switch),not consume energy?? would a rheostat be a
better
> > choice for the wall??? gotta learn more about potentiometer vs
> > rheostat, both cool words but must be more to their differences.
> >
> > Greg94ptCa
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Curt Sprenger
> > 1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
> > Anaheim Hills, CA
> >
>

[Pete Masterson]

I checked all the fuses in the overhead (it's different on a PT-42)
power center and didn't find any blown fuses/tripped breakers.

After disassembling a few things, I'm suspecting that the thermostat
is shot. There's a lot of corrosion on the back side, down where the
switches are mounted.

I'm aware of how to turn on the fan, so that's not the problem. I
previously had intermittent operation (that is, the fan would cycle
on and off -- without regard to the thermostat setting -- but then it
seemed to (mostly) be working as expected for several months. Last
Friday, it refused to go on despite whatever manipulation. In the
past, when the fan failed to come on, slamming the front door often
started it up -- but even that doesn't work now.

I took some things apart and found no 'juice' at the fan.

The thermostat has 3 wires coming it its backside, white, green, and
brown. Shorting either the green or brown to the white (presumably
ground) causes the toe-heater to come on. (This was with the middle
part of the thermostat removed, so the switches weren't active.) How
the thermostat circuits work is a mystery to me.

I'm going to try to find a replacement thermostat at a home center
(although, we're heading into Amish country in a couple of days, so
finding a home center with anything but lanterns might prove
difficult...)


Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
aeonix1@...
On the road near Scranton, PA



On Sep 30, 2008, at 3:35 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

> Kool o matic fan fuse on 94pt is
> front overhead component panel circuit block A "sk5"
> above driver ,in cabinet block close to street side,
>
> to turn on the fan you need to play wit the center thermostat
> try puttining one switch to cool and the fan on auto with the
> thermostat on a low temp setting. to have it run on auto you need to
> pick cool I guess it keeps from exhaustinng generated heat.
> Greg94pt
>

[Joyce and Richard Hayden]

Pete,

I, like Curt, removed the cool-o-matic unit and replaced with a Fantastic. The motorwithblade and grilleare good and you may havethem for the shipping if you like. If interested let me know soon as we are heading to our winter quarters near the middle of Oct.

Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA

----- Original Message -----

From: "aeonix1@mac.com"

To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 9:48 AM

Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] 94pt 'cool o matic' gally exhaust fan

The Fantastic Fan as a replacement makes sense ... but I like the
cool-o-matic because it allows me to run the fan (and get
ventilation) even if its raining.

Does anyone have info about "Maxxaire" or other alternatives that
might allow all-weather use of the fan?

Note, my cool-o-matic quit a few days ago. I'm not sure if it's the
thermostat or the fan itself -- or a fuse (anybody know where the
fuse is?). (I don't know when I'll have time to do a full trouble-
shooting on the fan while we're on the road...)

Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
"aeonix1%40mac.com"
On the road near Scranton, PA

On Sep 30, 2008, at 11:25 AM, Curt Sprenger wrote:

> Greg,
>
> Replace the cool-0-matic with an Fantastic Fan, the rain sensor, 3
> speed, in/out. Wire it to the same cool-O-matic thermostat wires.
> You'll have a new fan and more light in the kitchen.
>
> On Tue, Sep 30, 2008 at 7:55 AM, Gregory OConnor
> <"Gregoryoc%40aol.com"> wrote:
> My center exhaust fan is a 12 volt roof mount exhaust. I keep it
> running on a wall mounted thermostat(as designed) set at 90degF
> with a window open and a cheap home style heater duct filter in the
> window. works good, the filter gets choked with dust that would
> otherwise settle in the parked bus or fan blades and motor(should
> have a window open at each end but am too lazy).
>
> I took the fan housing apart to clean and lube a noisy bearing and
> uncovered a stowed three speed switch under the fan. the switch says
> potentiometer and has two springs at back which I believe are heat
> sinks (they get hot). I would like to have access to the switch to
> reduce the speed while drycamping (layoff Leroy) and conserve
> battery. I also like the idea of a slower moving fan while stored
> and unattended and a higher speed fan while cooking.
>
> I was thinking of hard wireing around the switch and moving the
> potentiometer/switch to the wall near the thermostat . if you have
> the switch where the fan mfg designed (thru a hole in the cover) you
> cant slid in the headliner blank. Prob with moving the switch is
> the "heat sink" in the wall???? I dont even know if the thermostat
> has a wire 'to the fan' or 'to a relay - to the fan'??? also of
> concern is the need for a heat sink?? does a product that produce
> heat (pot switch),not consume energy?? would a rheostat be a better
> choice for the wall??? gotta learn more about potentiometer vs
> rheostat, both cool words but must be more to their differences.
>
> Greg94ptCa
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Curt Sprenger
> 1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
> Anaheim Hills, CA
>