solenoid acting up

[Michael]

How do you test a test solenoid? 

my A/T switch does not completely shut off the power to the dash 

I got out my meter and performed these tests;

#1 found it had 3.8 to 4.5 volts still passing through the relay when switched off and went to "0" only when I activated another switch with a larger draw like the (mirror heat) The step extend switch just changes the tone of a low voltage chatter. 

#2 with load wire disconnected from the switch, it seemed to work consistently, showing only .01 or.02 VDC on the meter.

I'm not sure what that means or how I should really test it.... why would it work without a load? 

I've checked temperature of the relay when left on and gets up to 120+ degrees. Is that normal? I hate to lose all that energy to heat. 

Thanks for any help

[Wayne Kotila]

A solenoid is basically an electro magnet, when it is energized it creates a magnetic field that pulls up on the inner stem of the water valve and this opens the valve to allow the antifreeze to flow past the valve. when the solenoid is de-energized the inner stem (if the valve is clean and working properly) goes back to it's normal position which closes off the valve and stops the antifreeze from passing. If you have the winter/summer switch set to winter and your front heat switch set to heat and the chassis heat thermostat on and the temp lever up and the ignition on, your solenoids for the heat functions should be energized. You can test the solenoids a couple different ways, you may be able to feel the solenoid vibrate slightly or even make a slight hum ( some do and some don't ) or
you can take a clamp style ampmeter and clamp it around the the 12 volt power wire to the solenoid and see if your getting an amp draw. There are 2 wires to the solenoid, a power and a neutral, you have to be on the power wire to get the reading and you have tohave the clamp around 1 wire only, if you have it around both wires you won't get an amp reading. Another way to see if it's working is to slidethe solenoid off the water valve stem it's mounted on and see if you can feel the magnetic pull as you slide it off and when you slide it back on you may even hear the water valve pull open. another way is If you have the solenoid valve off of the water valve stem and you put the metal end of a phillips screwdriver in the hole in the solenoid that slides down on the water valve stem, if the solenoid is working you will feel a strong magnetic pull on the screwdriver. Remember for any of these tests you have to have power to the solenoid
and if you have the correct switch's on and the ignition on and you know that you have12 volt power at the solenoid then you will be able to determine if the solenoid works.

Good Luck

Wayne

1985PT40

---

From: Michael <michael3536@...>
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, June 7, 2009 8:34:50 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] solenoid acting up

How do you test a test solenoid?

my A/T switch does not completely shut off the power to the dash

I got out my meter and performed these tests;

#1 found it had 3.8 to 4.5 volts still passing through the relay when switched off and went to "0" only when I activated another switch with a larger draw like the (mirror heat) The step extend switch just changes the tone of a low voltage chatter.

#2 with load wire disconnected from the switch, it seemed to workconsistently, showing only .01 or.02 VDC on the meter.

I'm not sure what that means or how I should really test it.... why would it work without a load?

I've checked temperature of the relay when left on and gets up to 120+ degrees. Is that normal? I hate to lose all that energy to heat.

Thanks for any help

[sfedeli3]

Hi Wayne,

If the polarity is reversed on the Sporlan, will it force the rod closed, as
opposed to opening it? I always thought that when you reversed the flow of
electrons, the induction field reversed too- or does that only apply to AC?

Shane Fedeli
85PT40
Hershey, PA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wayne Kotila wrote:
>
> A solenoid is basically an electro magnet, when it is energized it creates a
magnetic field that pulls up on the inner stem of the water valve and this opens
the valve to allow the antifreeze to flow past the valve. when the solenoid is
de-energized the inner stem (if the valve is clean and working properly) goes
back to it's normal position which closes off the valve and stops the antifreeze
from passing. If you have the winter/summer switch set to winter and your front
heat switch set to heat and the chassis heat thermostat on and the temp lever up
and the ignition on, your solenoids for the heat functions should be energized.
You can test the solenoids a couple different ways, you may be able to feel the
solenoid vibrate slightly or even make a slight hum ( some do and some don't )
or you can take a clamp style amp meter and clamp it around the the 12 volt
power wire to the solenoid and see if your getting an amp draw. There are 2
wires to the
> solenoid, a power and a neutral, you have to be on the power wire to get the
reading and you have to have the clamp around 1 wire only, if you have it around
both wires you won't get an amp reading. Another way to see if it's working is
to slide the solenoid off the water valve stem it's mounted on and see if you
can feel the magnetic pull as you slide it off and when you slide it back on you
may even hear the water valve pull open. another way is If you have the solenoid
valve off of the water valve stem and you put the metal end of a phillips
screwdriver in the hole in the solenoid that slides down on the water valve
stem, if the solenoid is working you will feel a strong magnetic pull on the
screwdriver. Remember for any of these tests you have to have power to the
solenoid and if you have the correct switch's on and the ignition on and you
know that you have12 volt power at the solenoid then you will be able to
determine if the solenoid works.
> Good Luck
> Wayne
> 1985PT40
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Michael <michael3536@...>
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, June 7, 2009 8:34:50 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] solenoid acting up
>
>
>
>
>
> How do you test a test solenoid?
>
> my A/T switch does not completely shut off the power to the dash
>
> I got out my meter and performed these tests;
>
> #1 found it had 3.8 to 4.5 volts still passing through the relay when switched
off and went to "0" only when I activated another switch with a larger draw like
the (mirror heat) The step extend switch just changes the tone of a low voltage
chatter.
>
> #2 with load wire disconnected from the switch, it seemed to work
consistently, showing only .01 or.02 VDC on the meter.
>
> I'm not sure what that means or how I should really test it.... why would it
work without a load?
>
> I've checked temperature of the relay when left on and gets up to 120+
degrees. Is that normal? I hate to lose all that energy to heat.
>
> Thanks for any help
>

[GARY MINKER]

This is one of the best replies I have ever read Gary --- On Mon, 6/8/09, Wayne Kotila wrote: From: Wayne Kotila Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] solenoid acting up To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, June 8, 2009, 11:50 AM A solenoid is basically an electro magnet, when it is energized it creates a magnetic field that pulls up on the inner stem of the water valve and this opens the valve to allow the antifreeze to flow past the valve. when the solenoid is de-energized the inner stem (if the valve is clean and working properly) goes back to it's normal position which closes off the valve and stops the antifreeze from passing. If you have the winter/summer switch set to winter and your front heat switch set to heat and the chassis heat thermostat on and the temp lever up and the ignition on, your solenoids for the heat functions should be energized. You can test the solenoids a couple different ways, you may be able to feel the solenoid vibrate slightly or even make a slight hum ( some do and some don't ) or you can take a clamp style ampmeter and clamp it around the the 12 volt power wire to the solenoid and see if your getting an amp draw. There are 2 wires to the solenoid, a power and a neutral, you have to be on the power wire to get the reading and you have tohave the clamp around 1 wire only, if you have it around both wires you won't get an amp reading. Another way to see if it's working is to slidethe solenoid off the water valve stem it's mounted on and see if you can feel the magnetic pull as you slide it off and when you slide it back on you may even hear the water valve pull open. another way is If you have the solenoid valve off of the water valve stem and you put the metal end of a phillips screwdriver in the hole in the solenoid that slides down on the water valve stem, if the solenoid is working you will feel a strong magnetic pull on the screwdriver. Remember for any of these tests you have to have power to the solenoid and if you have the correct switch's on and the ignition on and you know that you have12 volt power at the solenoid then you will be able to determine if the solenoid works. Good Luck Wayne 1985PT40 From: Michael <michael3536@ gmail.com> To: WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com Sent: Sunday, June 7, 2009 8:34:50 PM Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] solenoid acting up How do you test a test solenoid? my A/T switch does not completely shut off the power to the dash I got out my meter and performed these tests; #1 found it had 3.8 to 4.5 volts still passing through the relay when switched off and went to "0" only when I activated another switch with a larger draw like the (mirror heat) The step extend switch just changes the tone of a low voltage chatter. #2 with load wire disconnected from the switch, it seemed to workconsistently, showing only .01 or.02 VDC on the meter. I'm not sure what that means or how I should really test it.... why would it work without a load? I've checked temperature of the relay when left on and gets up to 120+ degrees. Is that normal? I hate to lose all that energy to heat. Thanks for any help

[Wayne Kotila]

Hi Shane: If you were talking about aDC motor, swapping the positive and ground would change the direction of the motor but this is a solenoid and it is either energized or it is not energized and like a light bulb, you can swap the two wires and the light bulb will still light, It is either on or off, there is no reverse. Thewater valve is normally closed to flow andthey usually use a spring in the valvethat holdsthe diaphragm closed, when you energize the solenoid it creates a strong magnetic field (and it will still energize the same if the wireswere reversed), this magnetismpulls an internal rod in the valve up and opens the diaphragm to allow the antifreeze to flow.So your Sporlan is either open or closed and if the solenoid isn't energized the Sporlan valve should be in it's normally closed position and not allow flow and ifitis allowing flow,then problem is with the Sporlan valve, not the solenoid. You can pull the solenoid off the Sporlan valve and see if you are getting hot antifreeze flow past the valve and if you are, after it cools downyou could just disassemble the valve, clean it and make shure any pinholes or passage aren't plugged and look for any problems, like a bad diaphragm or spring, (if applicable). My guess would be that it is just dirty. Did you check to seethat when yourfront heat switch on the dash is offthat there is no 12volt power at the solenoid on the Sporlan valve? If the switch was just put thru the dash hole backwards when youflipped the switchto offthe solenoidwould actually be on and when the switch is in the on position the solenoid would be off. Wayne 1985PT40 From: sfedeli3 <sfedeli3@...> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2009 7:59:58 AM Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: solenoid acting up Hi Wayne, If the polarity is reversed on the Sporlan, will it force the rod closed, as opposed to opening it? I always thought that when you reversed the flow of electrons, the induction field reversed too- or does that only apply to AC? Shane Fedeli 85PT40 Hershey, PA --- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", Wayne Kotila wrote: > > A solenoid is basically an electro magnet, when it is energized it creates a magnetic field that pulls up on the inner stem of the water valve and this opens the valve to allow the antifreeze to flow past the valve. when the solenoid is de-energized the inner stem (if the valve is clean and working properly) goes back to it's normal position which closes off the valve and stops the antifreeze from passing. If you have the winter/summer switch set to winter and your front heat switch set to heat and the chassis heat thermostat on and the temp lever up and the ignition on, your solenoids for the heat functions should be energized. You can test the solenoids a couple different ways, you may be able to feel the solenoid vibrate slightly or even make a slight hum ( some do and some don't ) or you can take a clamp style ampmeter and clamp it around the the 12 volt power wire to the solenoid and see if your getting an amp draw. There are 2 wires to the > solenoid, a power and a neutral, you have to be on the power wire to get the reading and you have tohave the clamp around 1 wire only, if you have it around both wires you won't get an amp reading. Another way to see if it's working is to slidethe solenoid off the water valve stem it's mounted on and see if you can feel the magnetic pull as you slide it off and when you slide it back on you may even hear the water valve pull open. another way is If you have the solenoid valve off of the water valve stem and you put the metal end of a phillips screwdriver in the hole in the solenoid that slides down on the water valve stem, if the solenoid is working you will feel a strong magnetic pull on the screwdriver. Remember for any of these tests you have to have power to the solenoid and if you have the correct switch's on and the ignition on and you know that you have12 volt power at the solenoid then you will be able to determine if the solenoid works. > Good Luck > Wayne > 1985PT40 > > > > > ____________ _________ _________ __ > From: Michael <michael3536@ ...> > To: "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com" > Sent: Sunday, June 7, 2009 8:34:50 PM > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] solenoid acting up > > > > > > How do you test a test solenoid? > > my A/T switch does not completely shut off the power to the dash > > I got out my meter and performed these tests; > > #1 found it had 3.8 to 4.5 volts still passing through the relay when switched off and went to "0" only when I activated another switch with a larger draw like the (mirror heat) The step extend switch just changes the tone of a low voltage chatter. > > #2 with load wire disconnected from the switch, it seemed to workconsistently, showing only .01 or.02 VDC on the meter. > > I'm not sure what that means or how I should really test it.... why would it work without a load? > > I've checked temperature of the relay when left on and gets up to 120+ degrees. Is that normal? I hate to lose all that energy to heat. > > Thanks for any help >

[Michael]

Wayne

I may have not worded my question right---

I am having trouble with the Anti/Theft switch on my dash that controls a
solenoid/relay in the lower generator fan bay. It is a 200 Amp sp st
Cutler-Hammer solenoid that when turned off still has 3 or 4 volts running
thought it to the dash. When that happens my step extend switch light flitters
and some switch chatters and will only completely shut off when I activate
another switch
like the heated mirrors that has a large draw.

When the cable is disconnected and a meter is attached the solenoid works
every time showing 12vdc and "o" or .01 vdc when off.

The solenoid either has feedback? or is broken? A friend has suggested a bad
ground but do not know how to go about finding one.. I've been looking and
checking for bad fuses and trying to get a understanding of schematics -----
but no luck yet

Also I seem to be missing the key for the relays in the front panel they are
numbered and on my schematic but not described.

A new Cutler- Hammer solenoid is 200$ and it may not be the problem


I have 3 other components that are not working and may or may not be connected
or caused by the low voltage/solenoid problem

My upper dash clock is out, my bedroom clock and I've lost 12vdc to my rear
bedroom Carrier AC unit.

I think my bedroom clock and AC unit are powered from the old Dometic control
wiring harness / plug. I have not found any fuses that are out. I've
purchased a circuit tester but do not really know were the lines go and read
that I could hurt components that are still connected or at the other end.

Thanks for your help and I apologize for not being clearer.....

Michael






--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Michael" <michael3536@...> wrote:
>
> How do you test a test solenoid?
>
> my A/T switch does not completely shut off the power to the dash
>
> I got out my meter and performed these tests;
>
> #1 found it had 3.8 to 4.5 volts still passing through the relay when
> switched off and went to "0" only when I activated another switch with a
> larger draw like the (mirror heat) The step extend switch just changes
> the tone of a low voltage chatter.
>
> #2 with load wire disconnected from the switch, it seemed to
> work consistently, showing only .01 or.02 VDC on the meter.
>
> I'm not sure what that means or how I should really test it.... why
> would it work without a load?
>
> I've checked temperature of the relay when left on and gets up to 120+
> degrees. Is that normal? I hate to lose all that energy to heat.
>
> Thanks for any help
>

[Wayne Kotila]

Michael:

Do you mean that when you have one of the heavy guage wires taken off the solenoid relay that you no longer have an apparent stray voltage reading at the smaller relay coil terminals?

I would suspect that the unusual symptoms your havingwith other dash components may be related like you said but your bedroom clock probably isn't. Wanderlodges have so many different fuse/breaker panels and use a mix of protective devisesfrom the self resetting breakers to glass fuses. In your bedroom panels make shure you check to see if your getting 12 volt power past all of your breakers and fuses. Also does your coach have two 12 volt power main shut off switchs? On my PT40 one of the main 12 volt shut off switchs isin anoverhead living room cabinet and it shuts off power to the front and rear clocks and a few other things, you may want to also check that shut off if you have it.

When you say you have no 12 volt power to your rear carrier AC unit, what do you mean? If you are talking about the bedroom roof or central air conditioner, thoserun on120 volts ac only, (there is no 12 volt control circuit on them).

Wayne

1985PT40

---

From: Michael <michael3536@...>
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2009 9:44:38 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: solenoid acting up

Wayne

I may have not worded my question right---

I am having trouble with the Anti/Theft switch on my dash that controls a solenoid/relay in the lower generator fan bay. It is a 200 Amp sp st Cutler-Hammer solenoid that when turned off still has 3 or 4 volts running thought it to the dash. When that happens my step extend switch light flashes and some switch chatters and only completely shuts of when I activate a switch like the heated mirrors with a large draw.

When the cable is disconnected and a meter is attached the solenoid works every time showing 12vdc and the o or .01 vdc when off.

The solenoid either has feedback? or is broken? I'm not that swift on electricity.

I have 3 components that are not working and may not even be connected, My dash clock, bedroom clock and I've lost 12vdc to my rear bedroom Carrier AC unit. I think my bedroom clock and AC unit may be connected They seem to be powed from the old
dometic control wires.

Thanks for your help and I apologize for not being clearer.....

Michael

--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "Michael" <michael3536@ ...> wrote:
>
> How do you test a test solenoid?
>
> my A/T switch does not completely shut off the power to the dash
>
> I got out my meter and performed these tests;
>
> #1 found it had 3.8 to 4.5 volts still passing through the relay when
> switched off and went to "0" only when I activated another switch with a
> larger draw like the (mirror heat) The step extend switch just changes
> the tone of a low voltage chatter.
>
> #2 with load wire disconnected from the switch, it seemed to
> workconsistently, showing only .01
or.02 VDC on the meter.
>
> I'm not sure what that means or how I should really test it.... why
> would it work without a load?
>
> I've checked temperature of the relay when left on and gets up to 120+
> degrees. Is that normal? I hate to lose all that energy to heat.
>
> Thanks for any help
>

[Michael]

Wayne,
I put the positive lead to heavy cable while still connected at the solenoid
and the neg to ground/body. Positioned it to view through the windshield, turn
the switch off and still had 3 to 4 volts at the cable.

I then disconnected the cable and tried the switch with the meter still hooked
up to the same heavy terminal end at the solenoid and same ground and the
solinoid worked fine.

What other tests should I do to find out where that low voltage is coming from?


about the ac
My AC does have 120vac and also call for 12vdc. I have a clicker instead of
wired control I'v got photos of the schematic but have a hard time posting
them..

Do I have to be careful hooking up a circuit tracer that sends a signal though
the wires? Any pointers for tracing wires back to fuses? These are small wires
I trying to find.

Thanks for your insights-- Michael



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wayne Kotila wrote:
>
> Michael:
>
> Do you mean that when you have one of the heavy guage wires taken off the
solenoid relay that you no longer have an apparent stray voltage reading at the
smaller relay coil terminals?
> I would suspect that the unusual symptoms your having with other dash
components may be related like you said but your bedroom clock probably isn't.
Wanderlodges have so many different fuse/breaker panels and use a mix of
protective devises from the self resetting breakers to glass fuses. In your
bedroom panels make shure you check to see if your getting 12 volt power past
all of your breakers and fuses. Also does your coach have two 12 volt power main
shut off switchs? On my PT40 one of the main 12 volt shut off switchs is in an
overhead living room cabinet and it shuts off power to the front and rear clocks
and a few other things, you may want to also check that shut off if you have it.
> When you say you have no 12 volt power to your rear carrier AC unit, what do
you mean? If you are talking about the bedroom roof or central air conditioner,
those run on 120 volts ac only, (there is no 12 volt control circuit on them).
> Wayne
> 1985PT40
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Michael <michael3536@...>
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2009 9:44:38 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: solenoid acting up
>
>
>
>
>
> Wayne
>
> I may have not worded my question right---
>
> I am having trouble with the Anti/Theft switch on my dash that controls a
solenoid/relay in the lower generator fan bay. It is a 200 Amp sp st
Cutler-Hammer solenoid that when turned off still has 3 or 4 volts running
thought it to the dash. When that happens my step extend switch light flashes
and some switch chatters and only completely shuts of when I activate a switch
like the heated mirrors with a large draw.
>
> When the cable is disconnected and a meter is attached the solenoid works
every time showing 12vdc and the o or .01 vdc when off.
>
> The solenoid either has feedback? or is broken? I'm not that swift on
electricity.
>
> I have 3 components that are not working and may not even be connected, My
dash clock, bedroom clock and I've lost 12vdc to my rear bedroom Carrier AC
unit. I think my bedroom clock and AC unit may be connected They seem to be
powed from the old dometic control wires.
>
> Thanks for your help and I apologize for not being clearer.....
>
> Michael
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Michael" <michael3536@ ...> wrote:
> >
> > How do you test a test solenoid?
> >
> > my A/T switch does not completely shut off the power to the dash
> >
> > I got out my meter and performed these tests;
> >
> > #1 found it had 3.8 to 4.5 volts still passing through the relay when
> > switched off and went to "0" only when I activated another switch with a
> > larger draw like the (mirror heat) The step extend switch just changes
> > the tone of a low voltage chatter.
> >
> > #2 with load wire disconnected from the switch, it seemed to
> > work consistently, showing only .01 or.02 VDC on the meter.
> >
> > I'm not sure what that means or how I should really test it.... why
> > would it work without a load?
> >
> > I've checked temperature of the relay when left on and gets up to 120+
> > degrees. Is that normal? I hate to lose all that energy to heat.
> >
> > Thanks for any help
> >
>

[Wayne Kotila]

Hi Michael:

With that heavy cable disconnected from the solenoid, put one lead of your volt meter to the end of the disconnected cable and the other lead to your ground and see if youmeter shows the same3 to 4 volts on that disconnected cable.

Wayne

---

From: Michael <michael3536@...>
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 8:06:25 AM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: solenoid acting up

Wayne,
I put the positive lead to heavy cable while still connected at the solenoid and the neg to ground/body. Positioned it to view through the windshield, turn the switch off and still had 3 to 4 volts at the cable.

I then disconnected the cable and tried the switch with the meter still hooked up to the same heavy terminal end at the solenoid and same ground and the solinoid worked fine.

What other tests should I do to find out where that low voltage is coming from?

about the ac
My AC does have 120vac and also call for 12vdc. I have a clicker instead of wired control I'v got photos of the schematic but have a hard time posting them..

Do I have to be careful hooking up a circuit tracer that sends a signal though the wires? Any pointers for tracing wires back to fuses? These are small wires I trying to find.

Thanks for your insights-- Michael

--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", Wayne Kotila wrote:
>
> Michael:
>
> Do you mean that when you have one of the heavy guage wires taken off the solenoid relay that you no longer have an apparent stray voltage reading at the smaller relay coil terminals?
> I would suspect that the unusual symptoms your havingwith other dash components may be related like you said but your bedroom clock probably isn't. Wanderlodges have so many different fuse/breaker panels and use a mix of protective devisesfrom the self resetting breakers to glass fuses. In your bedroom panels make shure you check to see if your getting 12 volt power past all of your breakers and fuses. Also does your coach have two 12 volt power main shut off switchs? On my PT40 one of the main 12 volt shut off switchs isin anoverhead
living room cabinet and it shuts off power to the front and rear clocks and a few other things, you may want to also check that shut off if you have it.
> When you say you have no 12 volt power to your rear carrier AC unit, what do you mean? If you are talking about the bedroom roof or central air conditioner, thoserun on120 volts ac only, (there is no 12 volt control circuit on them).
> Wayne
> 1985PT40
>
>
>
>
> ____________ _________ _________ __
> From: Michael <michael3536@ ...>
> To: "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com"
> Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2009 9:44:38 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: solenoid acting up
>
>
>
>
>
> Wayne
>
> I may have not worded my question
right---
>
> I am having trouble with the Anti/Theft switch on my dash that controls a solenoid/relay in the lower generator fan bay. It is a 200 Amp sp st Cutler-Hammer solenoid that when turned off still has 3 or 4 volts running thought it to the dash. When that happens my step extend switch light flashes and some switch chatters and only completely shuts of when I activate a switch like the heated mirrors with a large draw.
>
> When the cable is disconnected and a meter is attached the solenoid works every time showing 12vdc and the o or .01 vdc when off.
>
> The solenoid either has feedback? or is broken? I'm not that swift on electricity.
>
> I have 3 components that are not working and may not even be connected, My dash clock, bedroom clock and I've lost 12vdc to my rear bedroom Carrier AC unit. I think my bedroom clock and AC unit may be connected They seem to be powed from the old dometic
control wires.
>
> Thanks for your help and I apologize for not being clearer.....
>
> Michael
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Michael" <michael3536@ ...> wrote:
> >
> > How do you test a test solenoid?
> >
> > my A/T switch does not completely shut off the power to the dash
> >
> > I got out my meter and performed these tests;
> >
> > #1 found it had 3.8 to 4.5 volts still passing through the relay when
> > switched off and went to "0" only when I activated another switch with a
> > larger draw like the (mirror heat) The step extend switch just changes
> > the tone of a low voltage chatter.
> >
> > #2 with load wire disconnected from the switch, it seemed to
> > workconsistently, showing only .01 or.02 VDC on the meter.
> >
>
> I'm not sure what that means or how I should really test it.... why
> > would it work without a load?
> >
> > I've checked temperature of the relay when left on and gets up to 120+
> > degrees. Is that normal? I hate to lose all that energy to heat.
> >
> > Thanks for any help
> >
>

[timvasqz]

Mike why would you want to turn it off? It sounds like 'on' it is one of the
phantom loads (a constant or continuous duty solenoid). You could bypass the
electrical gateway by disabling the switch input to the solenoid and connecting
the two heavy duty (12v when powered) wires together. Once completed, the AT
switch provides no theft protection and the items are always enabled.
If the only reason you turn the at switch to "protect" is to remove the amp
draw and battery use, just remove the device???? I never use my at switch for
theft protection.

voltage will not show battery consumption.Voltage is a measure of ability. amp
is a measure of volume. heat will prove consumption of amp hours.

One other test of the solenoid would be continuity . remove both cables (large
power) and test the continuity threw the input and output of the solenoid. ohms
at infinity would be the reading you want when the solenoid is off and 0 is the
measure of good continuity . the trick is to make sure you maintain 12 volts and
ground to the switch side of the solenoid.

When I make changes and additions I document them in a spiral notebook for the
NO. these notes more useful then documented oil changes and oil samples which
are only good for false security, higher resale and excuses after the fact.

video for continuity testing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wslo0QSrs58

Greg of Tim&Greg
94ptca



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Michael" <michael3536@...> wrote:
>
> Wayne,
> I put the positive lead to heavy cable while still connected at the solenoid
and the neg to ground/body. Positioned it to view through the windshield, turn
the switch off and still had 3 to 4 volts at the cable.
>
> I then disconnected the cable and tried the switch with the meter still
hooked up to the same heavy terminal end at the solenoid and same ground and the
solinoid worked fine.
>
> What other tests should I do to find out where that low voltage is coming
from?
>
>
> about the ac
> My AC does have 120vac and also call for 12vdc. I have a clicker instead of
wired control I'v got photos of the schematic but have a hard time posting
them..
>
> Do I have to be careful hooking up a circuit tracer that sends a signal
though the wires? Any pointers for tracing wires back to fuses? These are small
wires I trying to find.
>
> Thanks for your insights-- Michael
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wayne Kotila wrote:
> >
> > Michael:
> >
> > Do you mean that when you have one of the heavy guage wires taken off the
solenoid relay that you no longer have an apparent stray voltage reading at the
smaller relay coil terminals?
> > I would suspect that the unusual symptoms your having with other dash
components may be related like you said but your bedroom clock probably isn't.
Wanderlodges have so many different fuse/breaker panels and use a mix of
protective devises from the self resetting breakers to glass fuses. In your
bedroom panels make shure you check to see if your getting 12 volt power past
all of your breakers and fuses. Also does your coach have two 12 volt power main
shut off switchs? On my PT40 one of the main 12 volt shut off switchs is in an
overhead living room cabinet and it shuts off power to the front and rear clocks
and a few other things, you may want to also check that shut off if you have it.
> > When you say you have no 12 volt power to your rear carrier AC unit, what do
you mean? If you are talking about the bedroom roof or central air conditioner,
those run on 120 volts ac only, (there is no 12 volt control circuit on them).
> > Wayne
> > 1985PT40
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Michael <michael3536@>
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2009 9:44:38 PM
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: solenoid acting up
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Wayne
> >
> > I may have not worded my question right---
> >
> > I am having trouble with the Anti/Theft switch on my dash that controls a
solenoid/relay in the lower generator fan bay. It is a 200 Amp sp st
Cutler-Hammer solenoid that when turned off still has 3 or 4 volts running
thought it to the dash. When that happens my step extend switch light flashes
and some switch chatters and only completely shuts of when I activate a switch
like the heated mirrors with a large draw.
> >
> > When the cable is disconnected and a meter is attached the solenoid works
every time showing 12vdc and the o or .01 vdc when off.
> >
> > The solenoid either has feedback? or is broken? I'm not that swift on
electricity.
> >
> > I have 3 components that are not working and may not even be connected, My
dash clock, bedroom clock and I've lost 12vdc to my rear bedroom Carrier AC
unit. I think my bedroom clock and AC unit may be connected They seem to be
powed from the old dometic control wires.
> >
> > Thanks for your help and I apologize for not being clearer.....
> >
> > Michael
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Michael" <michael3536@ ...>
wrote:
> > >
> > > How do you test a test solenoid?
> > >
> > > my A/T switch does not completely shut off the power to the dash
> > >
> > > I got out my meter and performed these tests;
> > >
> > > #1 found it had 3.8 to 4.5 volts still passing through the relay when
> > > switched off and went to "0" only when I activated another switch with a
> > > larger draw like the (mirror heat) The step extend switch just changes
> > > the tone of a low voltage chatter.
> > >
> > > #2 with load wire disconnected from the switch, it seemed to
> > > work consistently, showing only .01 or.02 VDC on the meter.
> > >
> > > I'm not sure what that means or how I should really test it.... why
> > > would it work without a load?
> > >
> > > I've checked temperature of the relay when left on and gets up to 120+
> > > degrees. Is that normal? I hate to lose all that energy to heat.
> > >
> > > Thanks for any help
> > >
> >
>