New problem,,,,lost one of my Freedom Inverters

[Ron Thompson]

Good morning, I guess that when you go out on a trip is when everything really gets a workout. I left Texas 2 weeks ago and I have finally made my way to Eugene, Or. on my way to Alaska. I have had different kinds of problems arise and corrected them but I have now lost one of my Inverters This is not good for the batteries I would predict. I think that maybe the inverter is fused or has a breaker in the circuit but I have no idea where to look for that. If there is anyone out there familiar with the Inverter power circuits, transfer swithches, etc. please advise me. I would like to reset the Inverter that is down and see if it will hold. The type Inverter I have is the, Heart Interface, Freedom Model 25. There are two of them and one is offline. I don't have any schematics with me or location diagrams. Maybe someone on the forum can help me in identifying how this system works and where the transfer switches are if there is such a thing on this coach. My coach is a 1995, WLWB, 42'. There must be a transfer switch somewhere that senses when shore power is available nad turns the 120 VAC from the Inverter off. That may be where the problem is. My greatest fear right now is that the Inverter that is still powered up is producing 16 volts to the batteries. That can't be good for the batteries I would think. My next fear is that the Inverter that is down will have to be replaced if it can't be restarted. That will cause me a delay for sure waiting for one to be shipped in and installed. All the other sytems seem to be okay, except for the LPG gas shut off valve that I presented to the forum about 2 weeks ago. I have not done anything about pulling that panel to see if the main shut off valve is turned off. I don't really have a need so far for it since my generator is now functioning properly. Any help with this will be appreciated. I am on a WIFI that finally works as it should. I am in Eugene, Or. at the Shamrock RV park located on Old Franklin Blvd. just off I-5. Nice cool weather here. Thanks again for your assistance. Ron Thompson -Waller, Tx. 1995 WLWB 42' (cockyfox@...)

[Pete Masterson]

I had a similar situation not long ago. After troubleshooting, I thought I'd have to replace the inverter. Eventually, I discovered that a switch on the control panel (next to the driver) had been accidently turned off. Turned it back on -- and now it works just fine. (I guess I must have bumped the switch while working with the HWH level controller right next to it.)

I don't know what controller you have -- but a P.O. had installed a (Heart) Link 2000R controller. It manages the power output of the chargers and limits the charge rate to the batteries (I have AGMs and they require a lower voltage than regular wet cell batteries). On the downside, the Link 2000R controller takes an electrical engineer to operate it -- the manual is very difficult -- but I've been able to puzzle out the way to get it set up right for my batteries.

The standard interface is not as adjustable -- but I'm not really familiar with it.

The inverters have a small breaker on the front (inverters are inside a metal box just above the batteries inside the curb side battery compartment). Push in to reset. There are dual breakers for each inverter. Mine are located in the bedroom on the engine bulkhead below the main 120 V electrical panel behind a carpet covered door (with an obvious handle). (I have a side-island bed.) 2 breakers for each inverter. These protect the inverter from an overload on an inverted circuit since the inverter power is NOT routed through the main 120 V panel.

The back closet has a removable wooden panel which you might think is to access the engine from inside. You would be incorrect. I removed the panel the other day (in exploration) and discovered it covers a bunch (9 or 10) of 120 vac relays. I have no idea what they all serve (I didn't look for a wiring diagram -- I was just exploring). To remove the panel, you must remove about 6 screws in a gray felt covered strip, then remove 4 or so screws along the top edge and 2 screws further down -- but you probably don't need to get in there for this problem -- you should just be aware it's there.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 29, 2009, at 8:56 AM, Ron Thompson wrote:

Good morning, I guess that when you go out on a trip is when everything really gets a workout. I left Texas 2 weeks ago and I have finally made my way to Eugene, Or. on my way to Alaska. I have had different kinds of problems arise and corrected them but I have now lost one of my Inverters This is not good for the batteries I would predict. I think that maybe the inverter is fused or has a breaker in the circuit but I have no idea where to look for that. If there is anyone out there familiar with the Inverter power circuits, transfer swithches, etc. please advise me. I would like to reset the Inverter that is down and see if it will hold. The type Inverter I have is the, Heart Interface, Freedom Model 25. There are two of them and one is offline. I don't have any schematics with me or location diagrams. Maybe someone on the forum can help me in identifying how this system works and where the transfer switches are if there is such a thing on this coach. My coach is a 1995, WLWB, 42'. There must be a transfer switch somewhere that senses when shore power is available nad turns the 120 VAC from the Inverter off. That may be where the problem is. My greatest fear right now is that the Inverter that is still powered up is producing 16 volts to the batteries. That can't be good for the batteries I would think. My next fear is that the Inverter that is down will have to be replaced if it can't be restarted. That will cause me a delay for sure waiting for one to be shipped in and installed. All the other sytems seem to be okay, except for the LPG gas shut off valve that I presented to the forum about 2 weeks ago. I have not done anything about pulling that panel to see if the main shut off valve is turned off. I don't really have a need so far for it since my generator is now functioning properly. Any help with this will be appreciated. I am on a WIFI that finally works as it should. I am in Eugene, Or. at the Shamrock RV park located on Old Franklin Blvd. just off I-5. Nice cool weather here. Thanks again for your assistance. Ron Thompson -Waller, Tx. 1995 WLWB 42' ("cockyfox@sbcglobal.net")

[Ron Thompson]

Pete, I have checked the pop out resets on the two Inverters and they were all in so no need to reset them I pressed them anyway just to make sure and they were solid in. What switch was it that you accidentally hit. I have looked at everything on the dasboard console and didn't notice anything that jumped out at me. It appears that a breaker has been tripped. I did check those 4 breakers you mentiobned and tripped all of them off then back on and it didn't chanbge a thing. The Inverter panely that is next to the drivers seat (two of them) , the bottom one is off. No indicators are lit at all. Evidently your coach has a different Inverter than mine. Mine is a Heart Interface, Freedom, Model # 25. I think the Inverter has a breaker tripped somewhere. I have some 120 volt outlets with no voltage even though I am plugged into shore power so that is a clue to the problem I would think. It appears that the shore powerr has a leg that is non functinbal. Got to go pick up the wife at the laudry right now but be back shortly. Ron Thompson -Waller, Tx. 1995 WLWB 42' (cockyfox@...) --- On Mon, 6/29/09, Pete Masterson wrote: From: Pete Masterson Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] New problem,,,,lost one of my Freedom Inverters To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, June 29, 2009, 1:16 PM I had a similar situation not long ago. After troubleshooting, I thought I'd have to replace the inverter. Eventually, I discovered that a switch on the control panel (next to the driver) had been accidently turned off. Turned it back on -- and now it works just fine. (I guess I must have bumped the switch while working with the HWH level controller right next to it.) I don't know what controller you have -- but a P.O. had installed a (Heart) Link 2000R controller. It manages the power output of the chargers and limits the charge rate to the batteries (I have AGMs and they require a lower voltage than regular wet cell batteries). On the downside, the Link 2000R controller takes an electrical engineer to operate it -- the manual is very difficult -- but I've been able to puzzle out the way to get it set up right for my batteries. The standard interface is not as adjustable -- but I'm not really familiar with it. The inverters have a small breaker on the front (inverters are inside a metal box just above the batteries inside the curb side battery compartment) . Push in to reset. There are dual breakers for each inverter. Mine are located in the bedroom on the engine bulkhead below the main 120 V electrical panel behind a carpet covered door (with an obvious handle). (I have a side-island bed.) 2 breakers for each inverter. These protect the inverter from an overload on an inverted circuit since the inverter power is NOT routed through the main 120 V panel. The back closet has a removable wooden panel which you might think is to access the engine from inside. You would be incorrect. I removed the panel the other day (in exploration) and discovered it covers a bunch (9 or 10) of 120 vac relays. I have no idea what they all serve (I didn't look for a wiring diagram -- I was just exploring). To remove the panel, you must remove about 6 screws in a gray felt covered strip, then remove 4 or so s! crews al ong the top edge and 2 screws further down -- but you probably don't need to get in there for this problem -- you should just be aware it's there. Pete Masterson '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 El Sobrante CA aeonix1@mac. com On Jun 29, 2009, at 8:56 AM, Ron Thompson wrote: Good morning, I guess that when you go out on a trip is when everything really gets a workout. I left Texas 2 weeks ago and I have finally made my way to Eugene, Or. on my way to Alaska. I have had different kinds of problems arise and corrected them but I have now lost one of my Inverters This is not good for the batteries I would predict. I think that maybe the inverter is fused or has a breaker in the circuit but I have no idea where to look for that. If there is anyone out there familiar with the Inverter power circuits, transfer swithches, etc. please advise me. I would like to reset the Inverter that is down and see if it will hold. The type Inverter I have is the, Heart Interface, Freedom Model 25. There are two of them and one is offline. I don't have any schematics with me or location diag! rams.&nb sp; Maybe someone on the forum can help me in identifying how this system works and where the transfer switches are if there is such a thing on this coach. My coach is a 1995, WLWB, 42'. There must be a transfer switch somewhere that senses when shore power is available nad turns the 120 VAC from the Inverter off. That may be where the problem is. My greatest fear right now is that the Inverter that is still powered up is producing 16 volts to the batteries. That can't be good for the batteries I would think. My next fear is that the Inverter that is down will have to be replaced if it can't be restarted. That will cause me a delay for sure waiting for one to be shipped in and installed. All the other sytems seem to be okay, except for the LPG gas shut off valve that I presented to the forum about 2 weeks ago. I have not done anything about pulling that panel to see if the main shut off valve is turned off. I don't really have a need so far for it since my generator is now functioning properly. Any help with this will be appreciated. I am on a WIFI that finally works as it should. I am in Eugene, Or. at the Shamrock RV park located on Old Franklin Blvd. just off I-5. Nice cool weather here. Thanks again for your assistance. Ron Thompson -Waller, Tx. 1995 WLWB 42' (cockyfox@sbcglobal. net)

[thewrench1963]

I have a Heart Interface Freedom 20 which would be similar to your Freedom 25.
What I found in the manual is there should be a fuse inline on the positive
cable to the batteries. The recommendation on the Freedom 20 is a 300 amp fuse
within 18 inches of the batteries. There are also 2 circuit breakers on the
front of the unit. The 20 amp protects the inverter from overloads and the 30
amp is on the AC input. There is a fast acting electronic circuit protection
that will protect the circuits from extreme overloads. To reset you must corrct
the fault and cycle the power switch off/on.

The power switching on the Heart unit is all automatic when you plug into AC
power. If you turn off the power switch on the front of the unit while plugged
into AC it will turn off the battery charger but AC power will still be
available at the output.

If you have the optional remote control panel there are other settings available
which may be the cause of the unit not working. If you do have the remote
control panel there should be status LEDs which can be used to troubleshoot the
problem.

I hope this helps and if you need any more information out of the Heart owners
manual let me know.

Kevin Ridley
79 35' FC XV
Spokane WA
>

[Ron Thompson]

This is excellent information. I will check this out right away. It sounds as if this might be the problem. The 300 amp fuse that is. I have two of the 2500 amp Inverters. And there are two remote control panels which provide status led's and an on off switch although I have not seen that it turns the inverters on and off. One of the remote panels is dark. In other words dead. I have identified which one of the Inverters is dead by feeling of the warmth of them. The coolest one is the one that is off line. I take it that your model 20 is a single unit. Ron Thompson -Waller, Tx. 1995 WLWB 42' (cockyfox@...) --- On Mon, 6/29/09, thewrench1963 wrote: From: thewrench1963 Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: New problem,,,,lost one of my Freedom Inverters To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, June 29, 2009, 2:07 PM I have a Heart Interface Freedom 20 which would be similar to your Freedom 25. What I found in the manual is there should be a fuse inline on the positive cable to the batteries. The recommendation on the Freedom 20 is a 300 amp fuse within 18 inches of the batteries. There are also 2 circuit breakers on the front of the unit. The 20 amp protects the inverter from overloads and the 30 amp is on the AC input. There is a fast acting electronic circuit protection that will protect the circuits from extreme overloads. To reset you must corrct the fault and cycle the power switch off/on. The power switching on the Heart unit is all automatic when you plug into AC power. If you turn off the power switch on the front of the unit while plugged into AC it will turn off the battery charger but AC power will still be available at the output. If you have the optional remote control panel there are other settings available which may be the cause of the unit not working. If you do have the remote control panel there should be status LEDs which can be used to troubleshoot the problem. I hope this helps and if you need any more information out of the Heart owners manual let me know. Kevin Ridley 79 35' FC XV Spokane WA >

[Pete Masterson]

OK... the switch was on the inverter panel next to the driver's seat. (Memory) it's on the lower left hand corner of the little panel with the red lights.

It's possible that the sensor wires between the battery and control panel became unattached. Check to see that there are some very light weight wires attached to the batteries and that the connections are tight.

I have the same Freedom 25 inverters as you have. The previous owner upgraded the _controller_ only to a Heart Link 2000 R it controls 2 inverters and the output from the alternator (that's the "R" in the name). It is necessary to get the best life out of AGM batteries -- a choice also made by the P.O.

Which 120 v outlets are dead? There are 2 GFI (ground fault interrupter) circuits. One is controlled by a GFI outlet in the bathroom (mine is directly above the bathroom sink) and the other is controlled by a GFI outlet in the galley area (mine is directly above the counter between the sink and cooktop). These GFI outlet are wired to provide GFI "protection" to several non-GFI outlets in the same general area. For example, the one above the kitchen counter also controls an outlet on the end of the galley cabinet serving the 'salon' area. (I think it also controls an outlet on the other end of the galley cabinet as well.) GFIs can trip very easily, so try pressing the test then reset button. If the GFI outlet was replaced, but not wired correctly, it can cut off power to the satellite outlets.

To determine if your shore power is getting to both legs, take a look at the voltage meters above the front door. The two gauges should read 115-125 volts, or so. If they're both reading, then you're getting power. Next is time to check the main electrical panel and see if you have one of the mains tripped. You may need to take off the cover (careful! there is deadly voltage inside) and use a tester to ensure that the breakers are working properly. It's possible for an internal fault to kill a breaker -- I've had it happen in my home panel.

The main panel breaker that covers the non-working outlets should also be tested for an internal fault. Just because a breaker is set or reset, doesn't mean it's OK. On my home panel, turning a tripped breaker directly back to ON almost always ruins it. You _must_ turn it fully off, then back on. The point is, breakers can seem to switch normally, but an internal component can fail, causing them to be permanently "tripped" no matter what the switch position. Testing the breaker for continuity is the only way to check this -- and you have to pull the breaker out of the panel to make that test.

On the inverters themselves, the lower front edge covers a variety of output pins. You can use a non-contact AC tester* to see which connections are hot. You should find 120 v on at least one connecter on each Inverter. Note that inverted current causes slightly screwy sensing for the non-contact AC current testers. On "real" 120 vac power, the light glows, but with the inverted power, the light will flicker. Apparently, that's normal and has to do with the modified sine wave current from the inverter.

*This is the type of tester I'm referring to:

<http://www.happcontrols.com/electrical_s...028100.htm>

I got one at a home center for $16 or $18 or so....

Lastly, the automatic transfer switches may be involved. They can have a build up of corrosion on the contacts (from the inevitable sparking during transfer) that will kill them. I'm not entirely sure exactly where the transfer switches are located. Someone told me that they are inside the inverter. (I suspected that problem when I was troubleshooting my apparently "dead" inverter.) However, I found the rather simple (stupid owner, flipped switch) problem before I got to the point of pulling the inverter to tear it down to find the transfer switch.

Do you have power on both legs when running under the generator? The same transfer switch handles both shore power and generator power.

Be sure to use your multi-tester on the shore power source to ensure that you have power on both legs.

top pin is ground

Left and right are hot

bottom pin is neutral.

You should have 120 (or so) VAC from left to bottom and from right to bottom pins. 240 VAC (or so) when you go from left to right pins. (Top to bottom _ought_ to be zero.) If one leg of the shore power is out, you should see that the left or right pin is dead.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 29, 2009, at 12:05 PM, Ron Thompson wrote:

It appears that a breaker has been tripped. I did check those 4 breakers you mentiobned and tripped all of them off then back on and it didn't chanbge a thing. The Inverter panely that is next to the drivers seat (two of them) , the bottom one is off. No indicators are lit at all. Evidently your coach has a different Inverter than mine. Mine is a Heart Interface, Freedom, Model # 25.

THIS MAY BE THE KEY!

I think the Inverter has a breaker tripped somewhere. I have some 120 volt outlets with no voltage even though I am plugged into shore power so that is a clue to the problem I would think. It appears that the shore power has a leg that is non functional.

Note my suggested troubleshooting tests. Make sure you've got shore power to both legs. (Look at the voltage meters above the front door, first.) Then check the "mains" in the primary 120 vac electrical panel in the bedroom.

[thewrench1963]

It may be the fuse however if you have a volt meter you may want to check the
campground 50A plug and make sure that you have power to both legs there. If the
chargers run off of different legs this could be the problem. There is a post in
the tech articles I believe about how to test a 50A receptacle. I don't have
much experiance troubleshooting the Heart Interface as mine has worked
flawlessly since I bought the coach.

Yes I have a single unit. I have only 1 bank of batteries for house and
starting. If you have 2 battery banks that may explain the 2 chargers.

Kevin Ridley
79 35' FC XV
Spokane Wa


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Ron Thompson wrote:
>
> This is excellent information. I will check this out right away. It sounds
as if this might be the problem. The 300 amp fuse that is. I have two of the
2500 amp Inverters. And there are two remote control panels which provide
status led's and an on off switch although I have not seen that it turns the
inverters on and off. One of the remote panels is dark. In other words dead. I
have identified which one of the Inverters is dead by feeling of the warmth of
them. The coolest one is the one that is off line.
>
> I take it that your model 20 is a single unit.
>
> Ron Thompson -Waller, Tx.
>
> 1995 WLWB 42'
>
> (cockyfox@...)
>

[Ron Thompson]

Ok, Pete, that was quite a lot of things to check there.One of my GFI's was tripped the one in the bathroom. I reset it and it is now working fine. The other one near the sink was not tripped. The only other outlet that does not have power is the one that is to the left of the drivers seat, down low. It is dead. The Inverter panels are located on the same wall as the dead outlet but closer to the front. They are mounted one above the other. The lower one is the one that is dead. No indicator lights at all and the switch is on. I checked in the battery compartment where the coach batteries are located. The two Inverters are located at the top behind a screw lock door. I lowered the door and checked the pop out breakers on the front of the Inverters and all were OK with none of them popped out. One of the Inverters was very warn to the touch but the other one was not cold but was just a little warm. Probably from conduction from the other Inverter. I didn't see any easy to reset the cold inverter. I did turn the power switch off on it and waited a minute or so then turned it back on with no positive results. I didn't see anything else to check out on them so closed them up and looked for the transfer switch which I found in the bay on the road side where the Aqua Hot system is located. It was mounted on the right wall of that bay in a metal box about 8 or 10 inches square and labled, Transfer Switch. There were no switches on control devices on the outside of the case. There was a coil type device on the bottom the case but I couldn't see what it was from the angle I had to view it. It looked as if you would have to remove the box and take off the cover to see what it was. If I had a schematic and a location diagram I might have some luck in identifying why that outlet by the drivers seat is not working. Three days ago it was working because I had my camera charger plugged into it and it worked fine for that. That is about as far as I have gotten with it so far, Pete. Your ideas were very good and did remind me to check those GFI's As far as that cedar lined closet goes. I do have four breakers that are not in the closet but on the floor just under the right hand drawer that is just below the TV that is mounted above it. All four of the breakers were on and not tripped. I reset all four of them just in case but it did not change anything. Inside the closet on the right side down low near the floor of the closet is a removable felt covered panel. Behind it is a bunch of small relays or miniature breakers which I have no idea what they are for. I did visually check them out and did not see any thing out of the ordinarry. Is there another panel in that closet. I did not see a panel that was wooden that could be removed unless you are talking about the whole back wall of the closet. This is about all I can tell you at this point. I am no closer to a solution than I was this morning. The lack of schematics and location diagrams is the problem. I am an experienced electronic tech and can trouble shoot very well from a schematic and location diagrams. There is one thing I have learned about these birds, There is no easy project. They all are complicated and time consuming. Ron Thompson -Waller, Tx. 1995 WLWB 42' (cockyfox@...) --- On Mon, 6/29/09, Pete Masterson wrote: From: Pete Masterson Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] New problem,,,,lost one of my Freedom Inverters To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, June 29, 2009, 3:55 PM OK... the switch was on the inverter panel next to the driver's seat. (Memory) it's on the lower left hand corner of the little panel with the red lights. It's possible that the sensor wires between the battery and control panel became unattached. Check to see that there are some very light weight wires attached to the batteries and that the connections are tight. I have the same Freedom 25 inverters as you have. The previous owner upgraded the _controller_ only to a Heart Link 2000 R it controls 2 inverters and the output from the alternator (that's the "R" in the name). It is necessary to get the best life out of AGM batteries -- a choice also made by the P.O. Which 120 v outlets are dead? There are 2 GFI (ground fault interrupter) circuits. One is controlled by a GFI outlet in the bathroom (mine is directly above the bathroom sink) and the other is controlled by a GFI outlet in the galley area (mine is directly above the counter between the sink and cooktop). These GFI outlet are wired to provide GFI "protection" to several non-GFI outlets in the same general area. For example, the one above the kitchen counter also controls an outlet on the end of the galley cabinet serving the 'salon' area. (I think it also controls an outlet on the other end of the galley cabinet as well.) GFIs can trip very easily, so try pressing the test then reset button. If the GFI outlet was replaced, but not wired correctly, it can cut off power to the satellite outlets. To determine if your shore power is getting to both legs, take a look at the voltage meters above the front door. The two gauges should read 115-125 volts, or so. If they're both reading, then you're getting power. Next is time to check the main electrical panel and see if you have one of the mains tripped. You may need to take off the cover (careful! there is deadly voltage inside) and use a tester to ensure that the breakers are working properly. It! 's possi ble for an internal fault to kill a breaker -- I've had it happen in my home panel. The main panel breaker that covers the non-working outlets should also be tested for an internal fault. Just because a breaker is set or reset, doesn't mean it's OK. On my home panel, turning a tripped breaker directly back to ON almost always ruins it. You _must_ turn it fully off, then back on. The point is, breakers can seem to switch normally, but an internal component can fail, causing them to be permanently "tripped" no matter what the switch position. Testing the breaker for continuity is the only way to check this -- and you have to pull the breaker out of the panel to make that test. On the inverters themselves, the lower front edge covers a variety of output pins. You can use a non-contact AC tester* to see which connections are hot. You should find 120 v on at least one connecter on each Inverter. Note that inverted current causes slightly screwy sensing for the non-contact AC current testers. On "real" 120 vac power, the light glows, but with the inverted power, the light will flicker. Apparently, that's normal and has to do with the modified sine wave current from the inverter. *This is the type of tester I'm referring to: <http://www.happcont rols.com/ electrical_ supplies/ 92028100. htm> I got one at a home center for $16 or $18 or so.... Lastly, the automatic transfer switches may be involved. They can have a build up of corrosion on the contacts (from the inevitable sparking during transfer) that will kill them. I'm not entirely sure exactly where the transfer switches are located. Someone told me that they are inside the inverter. (I suspected that problem when I was troubleshooting my apparently "dead" inverter.) However, I found the rather simple (stupid owner, flipped switch) pr! oblem be fore I got to the point of pulling the inverter to tear it down to find the transfer switch. Do you have power on both legs when running under the generator? The same transfer switch handles both shore power and generator power. Be sure to use your multi-tester on the shore power source to ensure that you have power on both legs. top pin is ground Left and right are hot bottom pin is neutral. You should have 120 (or so) VAC from left to bottom and from right to bottom pins. 240 VAC (or so) when you go from left to right pins. (Top to bottom _ought_ to be zero.) If one leg of the shore power is out, you should see that the left or right pin is dead. Pete Masterson '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 El Sobrante CA aeonix1@mac. com On Jun 29, 2009, at 12:05 PM, Ron Thompson wrote: It appears that a breaker has been tripped. I did check those 4 breakers you mentiobned and tripped all of them off then back on and it didn't chanbge a thing. The Inverter panely that is next to the drivers seat (two of them) , the bottom one is off. No indicators are lit at all. Evidently your coach has a different Inverter than mine. Mine is a Heart Interface, Freedom, Model # 25. THIS MAY BE THE KEY! I think the Inverter has a breaker tripped somewhere. I have some 120 volt outlets with no voltage even though I am plugged into shore power so that is a clue to the problem I would think. It appears that the shore power has a leg that is non functional. Note my suggested troubleshooting tests. Make sure you've got shore power to both legs. (Look at the voltage meters above the front door, first.) Then check the "mains" in the primary 120 vac electrical panel in the bedroom.

[Ron Thompson]

Kevin, I do have power to both legs at the RV park post, however, at the coach end I don't know where that is exactly. I do have voltage on the guages at the co-pilots overhead console. However, leg one does not show any amperage at all. I have no idea what is connected to that leg. When I bought this coach, all schematics and technical data had been stripped out of the Blue Box. I did obtain one o fthe disks that Kurt Horvath put together, however that disk is back home in Waller., Texas. I thought I had put it in the coach but evidently I did not. I went through all the files on the forum of the Wanderlodge Owners group but did not find any electrical schematics of that particular circuits or circuits. I looked for that 300 amp fruse and did not see one. If it was a fusible link that is open to the air, I did see something like that on the bulkhead wall just above the engine batteries but it looked good and the three links looked ok. Thats about where its at right now with no apparent solution in sight. Thanks for your help. Your suggestions have been excellent ones as well as those from Pete Masterson. Ron Thompson -Waller, Tx. 1995 WLWB 42' (cockyfox@...) --- On Mon, 6/29/09, thewrench1963 wrote: From: thewrench1963 Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: New problem,,,,lost one of my Freedom Inverters To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, June 29, 2009, 4:14 PM It may be the fuse however if you have a volt meter you may want to check the campground 50A plug and make sure that you have power to both legs there. If the chargers run off of different legs this could be the problem. There is a post in the tech articles I believe about how to test a 50A receptacle. I don't have much experiance troubleshooting the Heart Interface as mine has worked flawlessly since I bought the coach. Yes I have a single unit. I have only 1 bank of batteries for house and starting. If you have 2 battery banks that may explain the 2 chargers. Kevin Ridley 79 35' FC XV Spokane Wa --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, Ron Thompson wrote: > > This is excellent information. I will check this out right away. It sounds as if this might be the problem. The 300 amp fuse that is. I have two of the 2500 amp Inverters. And there are two remote control panels which provide status led's and an on off switch although I have not seen that it turns the inverters on and off. One of the remote panels is dark. In other words dead. I have identified which one of the Inverters is dead by feeling of the warmth of them. The coolest one is the one that is off line. > > I take it that your model 20 is a single unit. > > Ron Thompson -Waller, Tx. > > 1995 WLWB 42' > > (cockyfox@.. .) >

[Pete Masterson]

On Jun 29, 2009, at 3:31 PM, Ron Thompson wrote:

<snip> The Inverter panels are located on the same wall as the dead outlet but closer to the front. They are mounted one above the other. The lower one is the one that is dead. No indicator lights at all and the switch is on. I checked in the battery compartment where the coach batteries are located. The two Inverters are located at the top behind a screw lock door. I lowered the door and checked the pop out breakers on the front of the Inverters and all were OK with none of them popped out. One of the Inverters was very warn to the touch but the other one was not cold but was just a little warm. Probably from conduction from the other Inverter. I didn't see any easy to reset the cold inverter. I did turn the power switch off on it and waited a minute or so then turned it back on with no positive results.

Ok this is a "bad sign" that the inverter isn't getting any power. Make sure the signal wires are connected to the batteries. They are very light weight wires hooked to a couple of the battery terminals. However, they're probably not the problem. There are some electrical things on the curb side accessible through the "grill door" to the engine side/battery compartment on the engine side of the bulkhead. I'm not sure what all that stuff is, but it's worth checking to ensure that there are no loose wires.

I didn't see anything else to check out on them so closed them up and looked for the transfer switch which I found in the bay on the road side where the Aqua Hot system is located. It was mounted on the right wall of that bay in a metal box about 8 or 10 inches square and labled, Transfer Switch.

Ah... I have one of those boxes. No label, however. No clue what's inside. I'd be sure the I'm disconnected from shore power -and- remove the negative cables from the battery posts before opening that one up. I'm guessing "shock hazard inside."

There were no switches on control devices on the outside of the case. There was a coil type device on the bottom the case but I couldn't see what it was from the angle I had to view it. It looked as if you would have to remove the box and take off the cover to see what it was. If I had a schematic and a location diagram I might have some luck in identifying why that outlet by the drivers seat is not working. Three days ago it was working because I had my camera charger plugged into it and it worked fine for that.

I got a ton of schematics -- but I can't tell what's what. I don't think I have anything that looks like 120v circuits -- all the diagrams I have looks like 12 v.

That is about as far as I have gotten with it so far, Pete. Your ideas were very good and did remind me to check those GFI's As far as that cedar lined closet goes. I do have four breakers that are not in the closet but on the floor just under the right hand drawer that is just below the TV that is mounted above it. All four of the breakers were on and not tripped. I reset all four of them just in case but it did not change anything.

Inside the closet on the right side down low near the floor of the closet is a removable felt covered panel. Behind it is a bunch of small relays or miniature breakers which I have no idea what they are for. I did visually check them out and did not see any thing out of the ordinarry.

That's all 12vdc stuff. There's another power center toward the top (in my coach). Your floor plan sounds different in some respects. My inverter breakers are on the curb side. The main 120 VAC power panel is behind a mirror just above the curb-side drawer.

Is there another panel in that closet. I did not see a panel that was wooden that could be removed unless you are talking about the whole back wall of the closet.

Yes, I'm talking about the "whole" back wall of the closet. There are two visible screws next to a small gap. At the top of the panel is a gray felt covered wood strip. Remove that strip (6 screws hidden in the felt) and you'll find another little gap and another 6 screws. Behind that whole back wall of the closet is a set of 8 or 9 120 VAC relays and some other wires down in the bottom of the hidden compartment.

This is about all I can tell you at this point. I am no closer to a solution than I was this morning. The lack of schematics and location diagrams is the problem. I am an experienced electronic tech and can trouble shoot very well from a schematic and location diagrams. There is one thing I have learned about these birds, There is no easy project. They all are complicated and time consuming.

You got that right!

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"