ROOF LEAKING !!!!

[bumpersbird]

I had a little water leak before rats and again during rats. I got home and
silicone anything on the left rear I could get to. Well thanks to the Tropical
storm coming up from the gulf, she was leaking real good, or bad! This morning.

I parked her back in the barn, Damn! looks like the concrete floor I was going
to pour will have to wait. We just got the barn mostly cleared out for the
contractor last weekend.

Back to the leak it is obvious that I didn't getter done. Anybody have any
experience with this machine.

http://www.rverscorner.com/info/raintest/raintest.html

Madison RV in Madison Alabama is the closest dealer that has one of these
pressurizing systems. I would like to have it tested , I'm not sure if I want
then to fix it I would just like to find the leak/leaks.

This will most likely accelerate the roof redo project. I have wanting to take
off all the rails and cat walks and reseal and riv nut the rusted out mounting
points.

I'll need to know what all I'll need to refurbish the roof.
I would like any advise, hints, tips that you guys have on the subject. I
remember some threads on roof redoes and riv nuts here and on the WOG site so if
you guys could refresh my fading memory I would appreciate it.

Drip DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP

[freewill2008]

You did not tell us who you are or what kind of rig you have, but if it is a
vintage Wanderlodge with overlapping steel panels then look for
loose/rusted/unsealed mounting locations for the goat rails and roof rack
panels.

Also, the overlaps on the steel roof panels WILL leak. Not sure if the rivets
leak also. I've taken to keeping the overlap seams sealed with a high quality
marine sealant that remains flexible (Sika-Flex). The panels do move around
just a bit going down the road so the sealand needs to remain flexible. My FC31
does not have a roof rack so I get a good look at what goes on with the roof
panels.

Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII WA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bumpersbird" wrote:
>
> I had a little water leak before rats and again during rats. I got home and
silicone anything on the left rear I could get to. Well thanks to the Tropical
storm coming up from the gulf, she was leaking real good, or bad! This morning.
>
> I parked her back in the barn, Damn! looks like the concrete floor I was going
to pour will have to wait. We just got the barn mostly cleared out for the
contractor last weekend.
>
> Back to the leak it is obvious that I didn't getter done. Anybody have any
experience with this machine.
>
> http://www.rverscorner.com/info/raintest/raintest.html
>
> Madison RV in Madison Alabama is the closest dealer that has one of these
pressurizing systems. I would like to have it tested , I'm not sure if I want
then to fix it I would just like to find the leak/leaks.
>
> This will most likely accelerate the roof redo project. I have wanting to take
off all the rails and cat walks and reseal and riv nut the rusted out mounting
points.
>
> I'll need to know what all I'll need to refurbish the roof.
> I would like any advise, hints, tips that you guys have on the subject. I
remember some threads on roof redoes and riv nuts here and on the WOG site so if
you guys could refresh my fading memory I would appreciate it.
>
> Drip DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP
>

[Pete Masterson]

The key idea of this machine is to seal up the coach except for one vent, window, or door, where you introduce a device that will increase the pressure inside to exceed the outside pressure. A relatively few PSI is all that's necessary.

There's no reason that you can't do it yourself with some duct tape, cardboard, and a pressurizing fan like those used to fill and maintain inflatable figures (like dinosaurs or giant teddy bears -- or children's play structures) that you can rent from a variety of sources. (Even Lockhart Texas had a store offering various kid's "party structures" using these fans.)

Once you've got the interior pressurized -- then soapy water will reveal the leaks.

If the coach fails to 'pressure up' sufficiently, you may need to block the AC vents with duct tape and cardboard -- and even tape up the small AC vents if you have a ducted system. Use some paper or cardboard to minimize the area in contact with the duct tape as it tends to transfer the 'sticky stuff' to surfaces it contacts.

I considered this approach, but ultimately I found the sources of a couple of stubborn leaks through more conventional means.

Note that silicone is not usually the most effective sealant for use on a vehicle. Usually butyl-based caulk is a better choice. There is a 'self leveling' caulk (used extensively on my coach roof by a previous owner) that's available from Camping World that appears to be quite durable. I also used some (rather expensive) tape stuff that proved very effective in re-sealing around my Fantastic Fan vent.

I note that some "leaking" can actually be caused by AC condensation that does not flow through the drain tubes as intended.

One common repair was to take up the aluminum walkway plates on the roof, and replace the screws with stainless steel screws using butyl caulk to seal each screw as it is installed. On my coach, a P.O. did this and put the screws through strips of semi-solid butyl. It appeared to be effective (apparently no leaks from the screws) but the black strips of butyl looks a little odd (though they were mostly under the metal plating, so were only visible at the ends).

Pete Masterson

(former) '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Nov 10, 2009, at 7:43 AM, bumpersbird wrote:

I had a little water leak before rats and again during rats. I got home and silicone anything on the left rear I could get to. Well thanks to the Tropical storm coming up from the gulf, she was leaking real good, or bad! This morning.

I parked her back in the barn, Damn! looks like the concrete floor I was going to pour will have to wait. We just got the barn mostly cleared out for the contractor last weekend.

Back to the leak it is obvious that I didn't getter done. Anybody have any experience with this machine.

http://www.rverscorner.com/info/raintest/raintest.html

Madison RV in Madison Alabama is the closest dealer that has one of these pressurizing systems. I would like to have it tested , I'm not sure if I want then to fix it I would just like to find the leak/leaks.

This will most likely accelerate the roof redo project. I have wanting to take off all the rails and cat walks and reseal and riv nut the rusted out mounting points.

I'll need to know what all I'll need to refurbish the roof.
I would like any advise, hints, tips that you guys have on the subject. I remember some threads on roof redoes and riv nuts here and on the WOG site so if you guys could refresh my fading memory I would appreciate it.

Drip DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP

[ronmarabito2002]

Where is the water dripping inside. That might help us tell you where to look.

R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bumpersbird" wrote:
>
> I had a little water leak before rats and again during rats. I got home and
silicone anything on the left rear I could get to. Well thanks to the Tropical
storm coming up from the gulf, she was leaking real good, or bad! This morning.
>
> I parked her back in the barn, Damn! looks like the concrete floor I was going
to pour will have to wait. We just got the barn mostly cleared out for the
contractor last weekend.
>
> Back to the leak it is obvious that I didn't getter done. Anybody have any
experience with this machine.
>
> http://www.rverscorner.com/info/raintest/raintest.html
>
> Madison RV in Madison Alabama is the closest dealer that has one of these
pressurizing systems. I would like to have it tested , I'm not sure if I want
then to fix it I would just like to find the leak/leaks.
>
> This will most likely accelerate the roof redo project. I have wanting to take
off all the rails and cat walks and reseal and riv nut the rusted out mounting
points.
>
> I'll need to know what all I'll need to refurbish the roof.
> I would like any advise, hints, tips that you guys have on the subject. I
remember some threads on roof redoes and riv nuts here and on the WOG site so if
you guys could refresh my fading memory I would appreciate it.
>
> Drip DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP
>

[bumpersbird]

Pete, That's a great Idea I have exactly what you described didn't even think of
it. GREAT IDEA! I'm happy your still here on the Forums. Sorry about not signing
my post, Kurt Horvath 95 PT 42 10AC. The leak is in the bedroom rear, road side
just dripping down from the wire tunnel between the closet and the bed. I've
looked up into it with a fiber optic scope to no avail. The fiberglass rear cap
had a large gap between it and the body but sealing it didn't help. As high up
as it is it's probably the Cat Walks, or Goat Rails,

Kurt Horvath
95 PT 42
10AC

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson wrote:
>
> The key idea of this machine is to seal up the coach except for one
> vent, window, or door, where you introduce a device that will increase
> the pressure inside to exceed the outside pressure. A relatively few
> PSI is all that's necessary.
>
> There's no reason that you can't do it yourself with some duct tape,
> cardboard, and a pressurizing fan like those used to fill and maintain
> inflatable figures (like dinosaurs or giant teddy bears -- or
> children's play structures) that you can rent from a variety of
> sources. (Even Lockhart Texas had a store offering various kid's
> "party structures" using these fans.)
>
> Once you've got the interior pressurized -- then soapy water will
> reveal the leaks.
>
> If the coach fails to 'pressure up' sufficiently, you may need to
> block the AC vents with duct tape and cardboard -- and even tape up
> the small AC vents if you have a ducted system. Use some paper or
> cardboard to minimize the area in contact with the duct tape as it
> tends to transfer the 'sticky stuff' to surfaces it contacts.
>
> I considered this approach, but ultimately I found the sources of a
> couple of stubborn leaks through more conventional means.
>
> Note that silicone is not usually the most effective sealant for use
> on a vehicle. Usually butyl-based caulk is a better choice. There is a
> 'self leveling' caulk (used extensively on my coach roof by a previous
> owner) that's available from Camping World that appears to be quite
> durable. I also used some (rather expensive) tape stuff that proved
> very effective in re-sealing around my Fantastic Fan vent.
>
> I note that some "leaking" can actually be caused by AC condensation
> that does not flow through the drain tubes as intended.
>
> One common repair was to take up the aluminum walkway plates on the
> roof, and replace the screws with stainless steel screws using butyl
> caulk to seal each screw as it is installed. On my coach, a P.O. did
> this and put the screws through strips of semi-solid butyl. It
> appeared to be effective (apparently no leaks from the screws) but the
> black strips of butyl looks a little odd (though they were mostly
> under the metal plating, so were only visible at the ends).
>
> Pete Masterson
> (former) '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> El Sobrante CA
> aeonix1@...
>
>
>
>
> On Nov 10, 2009, at 7:43 AM, bumpersbird wrote:
>
> > I had a little water leak before rats and again during rats. I got
> > home and silicone anything on the left rear I could get to. Well
> > thanks to the Tropical storm coming up from the gulf, she was
> > leaking real good, or bad! This morning.
> >
> > I parked her back in the barn, Damn! looks like the concrete floor I
> > was going to pour will have to wait. We just got the barn mostly
> > cleared out for the contractor last weekend.
> >
> > Back to the leak it is obvious that I didn't getter done. Anybody
> > have any experience with this machine.
> >
> > http://www.rverscorner.com/info/raintest/raintest.html
> >
> > Madison RV in Madison Alabama is the closest dealer that has one of
> > these pressurizing systems. I would like to have it tested , I'm not
> > sure if I want then to fix it I would just like to find the leak/
> > leaks.
> >
> > This will most likely accelerate the roof redo project. I have
> > wanting to take off all the rails and cat walks and reseal and riv
> > nut the rusted out mounting points.
> >
> > I'll need to know what all I'll need to refurbish the roof.
> > I would like any advise, hints, tips that you guys have on the
> > subject. I remember some threads on roof redoes and riv nuts here
> > and on the WOG site so if you guys could refresh my fading memory I
> > would appreciate it.
> >
> > Drip DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP
> >
>

[Jipjob]

How about a bucket of snow coat?? No only kidding and your idea reminded me of
how we oust to test shipboard condenser tube nest. Same Idea put pressure on
the inside of the turbine area and check with bubble soap for leaks in either
inlet head of condenser or outlet. We also oust to use a green fluorescent dye
with a florescent light to check for minor packing leaks.

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bumpersbird" wrote:
>
>
> Pete, That's a great Idea I have exactly what you described didn't even think
of it. GREAT IDEA! I'm happy your still here on the Forums. Sorry about not
signing my post, Kurt Horvath 95 PT 42 10AC. The leak is in the bedroom rear,
road side just dripping down from the wire tunnel between the closet and the
bed. I've looked up into it with a fiber optic scope to no avail. The fiberglass
rear cap had a large gap between it and the body but sealing it didn't help. As
high up as it is it's probably the Cat Walks, or Goat Rails,
>
> Kurt Horvath
> 95 PT 42
> 10AC
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson wrote:
> >
> > The key idea of this machine is to seal up the coach except for one
> > vent, window, or door, where you introduce a device that will increase
> > the pressure inside to exceed the outside pressure. A relatively few
> > PSI is all that's necessary.
> >
> > There's no reason that you can't do it yourself with some duct tape,
> > cardboard, and a pressurizing fan like those used to fill and maintain
> > inflatable figures (like dinosaurs or giant teddy bears -- or
> > children's play structures) that you can rent from a variety of
> > sources. (Even Lockhart Texas had a store offering various kid's
> > "party structures" using these fans.)
> >
> > Once you've got the interior pressurized -- then soapy water will
> > reveal the leaks.
> >
> > If the coach fails to 'pressure up' sufficiently, you may need to
> > block the AC vents with duct tape and cardboard -- and even tape up
> > the small AC vents if you have a ducted system. Use some paper or
> > cardboard to minimize the area in contact with the duct tape as it
> > tends to transfer the 'sticky stuff' to surfaces it contacts.
> >
> > I considered this approach, but ultimately I found the sources of a
> > couple of stubborn leaks through more conventional means.
> >
> > Note that silicone is not usually the most effective sealant for use
> > on a vehicle. Usually butyl-based caulk is a better choice. There is a
> > 'self leveling' caulk (used extensively on my coach roof by a previous
> > owner) that's available from Camping World that appears to be quite
> > durable. I also used some (rather expensive) tape stuff that proved
> > very effective in re-sealing around my Fantastic Fan vent.
> >
> > I note that some "leaking" can actually be caused by AC condensation
> > that does not flow through the drain tubes as intended.
> >
> > One common repair was to take up the aluminum walkway plates on the
> > roof, and replace the screws with stainless steel screws using butyl
> > caulk to seal each screw as it is installed. On my coach, a P.O. did
> > this and put the screws through strips of semi-solid butyl. It
> > appeared to be effective (apparently no leaks from the screws) but the
> > black strips of butyl looks a little odd (though they were mostly
> > under the metal plating, so were only visible at the ends).
> >
> > Pete Masterson
> > (former) '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > El Sobrante CA
> > aeonix1@
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Nov 10, 2009, at 7:43 AM, bumpersbird wrote:
> >
> > > I had a little water leak before rats and again during rats. I got
> > > home and silicone anything on the left rear I could get to. Well
> > > thanks to the Tropical storm coming up from the gulf, she was
> > > leaking real good, or bad! This morning.
> > >
> > > I parked her back in the barn, Damn! looks like the concrete floor I
> > > was going to pour will have to wait. We just got the barn mostly
> > > cleared out for the contractor last weekend.
> > >
> > > Back to the leak it is obvious that I didn't getter done. Anybody
> > > have any experience with this machine.
> > >
> > > http://www.rverscorner.com/info/raintest/raintest.html
> > >
> > > Madison RV in Madison Alabama is the closest dealer that has one of
> > > these pressurizing systems. I would like to have it tested , I'm not
> > > sure if I want then to fix it I would just like to find the leak/
> > > leaks.
> > >
> > > This will most likely accelerate the roof redo project. I have
> > > wanting to take off all the rails and cat walks and reseal and riv
> > > nut the rusted out mounting points.
> > >
> > > I'll need to know what all I'll need to refurbish the roof.
> > > I would like any advise, hints, tips that you guys have on the
> > > subject. I remember some threads on roof redoes and riv nuts here
> > > and on the WOG site so if you guys could refresh my fading memory I
> > > would appreciate it.
> > >
> > > Drip DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP
> > >
> >
>

[Pete Masterson]

I'll just observe that the drip can travel some distance from where it enters the coach -- A leak I was chasing moved each time we moved the coach -- the slight differences in leveling caused the leak-water to come out in different places. Very frustrating.

Pete Masterson

(former) '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Nov 10, 2009, at 4:54 PM, bumpersbird wrote:

Pete, That's a great Idea I have exactly what you described didn't even think of it. GREAT IDEA! I'm happy your still here on the Forums. Sorry about not signing my post, Kurt Horvath 95 PT 42 10AC. The leak is in the bedroom rear, road side just dripping down from the wire tunnel between the closet and the bed. I've looked up into it with a fiber optic scope to no avail. The fiberglass rear cap had a large gap between it and the body but sealing it didn't help. As high up as it is it's probably the Cat Walks, or Goat Rails,

Kurt Horvath
95 PT 42
10AC

--- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com", Pete Masterson wrote:

The key idea of this machine is to seal up the coach except for one

vent, window, or door, where you introduce a device that will increase

the pressure inside to exceed the outside pressure. A relatively few

PSI is all that's necessary.

There's no reason that you can't do it yourself with some duct tape,

cardboard, and a pressurizing fan like those used to fill and maintain

inflatable figures (like dinosaurs or giant teddy bears -- or

children's play structures) that you can rent from a variety of

sources. (Even Lockhart Texas had a store offering various kid's

"party structures" using these fans.)

Once you've got the interior pressurized -- then soapy water will

reveal the leaks.

If the coach fails to 'pressure up' sufficiently, you may need to

block the AC vents with duct tape and cardboard -- and even tape up

the small AC vents if you have a ducted system. Use some paper or

cardboard to minimize the area in contact with the duct tape as it

tends to transfer the 'sticky stuff' to surfaces it contacts.

I considered this approach, but ultimately I found the sources of a

couple of stubborn leaks through more conventional means.

Note that silicone is not usually the most effective sealant for use

on a vehicle. Usually butyl-based caulk is a better choice. There is a

'self leveling' caulk (used extensively on my coach roof by a previous

owner) that's available from Camping World that appears to be quite

durable. I also used some (rather expensive) tape stuff that proved

very effective in re-sealing around my Fantastic Fan vent.

I note that some "leaking" can actually be caused by AC condensation

that does not flow through the drain tubes as intended.

One common repair was to take up the aluminum walkway plates on the

roof, and replace the screws with stainless steel screws using butyl

caulk to seal each screw as it is installed. On my coach, a P.O. did

this and put the screws through strips of semi-solid butyl. It

appeared to be effective (apparently no leaks from the screws) but the

black strips of butyl looks a little odd (though they were mostly

under the metal plating, so were only visible at the ends).

Pete Masterson

(former) '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

aeonix1@...

On Nov 10, 2009, at 7:43 AM, bumpersbird wrote:

I had a little water leak before rats and again during rats. I got

home and silicone anything on the left rear I could get to. Well

thanks to the Tropical storm coming up from the gulf, she was

leaking real good, or bad! This morning.

I parked her back in the barn, Damn! looks like the concrete floor I

was going to pour will have to wait. We just got the barn mostly

cleared out for the contractor last weekend.

Back to the leak it is obvious that I didn't getter done. Anybody

have any experience with this machine.

http://www.rverscorner.com/info/raintest/raintest.html

Madison RV in Madison Alabama is the closest dealer that has one of

these pressurizing systems. I would like to have it tested , I'm not

sure if I want then to fix it I would just like to find the leak/

leaks.

This will most likely accelerate the roof redo project. I have

wanting to take off all the rails and cat walks and reseal and riv

nut the rusted out mounting points.

I'll need to know what all I'll need to refurbish the roof.

I would like any advise, hints, tips that you guys have on the

subject. I remember some threads on roof redoes and riv nuts here

and on the WOG site so if you guys could refresh my fading memory I

would appreciate it.

Drip DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP

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[magnus caeruleus avis]

I had a persistent, but minor leak in the area where my bedroom television used
to be (above the breaker panel). On the roof it appeared some of the screws
holding the catwalk were rusted and "wallering" in the holes. I removed all of
the screws on the catwalk from the rear a/c back. I replaced them with 5/16th 1
& 1/4 " stainless lag screws, after first squirting in a dollop of Dicor (you
can get it at Camping World) self leveling sealant. Still didn't stop the leak.
I then replaced the screws holding down the goat rail on both sides,in the same
manner from the rear a/c back. Still had a leak. Finally I replaced the screws
holding the ladder to the top of the roof in the same manner. Bingo, the leak
stopped. I figured the stress of climbing up and down the ladder weakened the
screws and caused the leak.

You might want to start there first and see if your leak stops. Water is strange
in the way it will flow.

Tommy Rountree