Coach Batts overcharging

[Fred Hulse]

I started up the coach last evening and noticed that my house voltmeter was pegged at maximum with the motor running.The chassis voltmeter appears normal.The ammeter is also pegged at 300 amps with the motor on..
This only occurs with the motor running and the auxillary start switch makes no difference when in any position.
Where is the auxillary solenoid?

Not ever having this issue, I am at a loss.

Thanks for any help

Fred & Jeanne Hulse

AZ.

97 WL41

[freewill2008]

Fred - Is that a dual alternator setup? If so, it could be a bad regulator on
the house alternator. One type of regulator failure can cause the alternator to
run at max continuously.

If this is the case, disconnect or pull the belt off the house alternator before
running for any length of time.

Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII WA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hulse" wrote:
>
> I started up the coach last evening and noticed that my house voltmeter was
pegged at maximum with the motor running.The chassis voltmeter appears
normal.The ammeter is also pegged at 300 amps with the motor on..
> This only occurs with the motor running and the auxillary start switch makes
no difference when in any position.
> Where is the auxillary solenoid?
>
> Not ever having this issue, I am at a loss.
>
> Thanks for any help
> Fred & Jeanne Hulse
> AZ.
> 97 WL41
>

[Wayne Kotila]

Fred the aux. switch on my 1996 PT42 controls a black rectangular shaped battery cut off switch located above the batteries, back by the engine, I will attach a couple pictures. Wayne Kotila 1996 PT42 --- On Sat, 11/20/10, Fred Hulse wrote: From: Fred Hulse Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Coach Batts overcharging To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, November 20, 2010, 2:43 AM I started up the coach last evening and noticed that my house voltmeter was pegged at maximum with the motor running.The chassis voltmeter appears normal.The ammeter is also pegged at 300 amps with the motor on.. This only occurs with the motor running and the auxillary start switch makes no difference when in any position. Where is the auxillary solenoid? Not ever having this issue, I am at a loss. Thanks for any help Fred & Jeanne Hulse AZ. 97 WL41

[Fred Hulse]

Hi Bob

I have only one 300 amp alternator and have tested the regulator with another it's ok

Thanks.

Fred & Jeanne Hulse
Morristown,Arizona
97 WLWB41

[freewill2008]

Fred - In that case the instruments could be giving you a faulty reading. The
ammeter uses a shunt which could have failed. That might lead to a faulty
voltage reading as well.

Another possiblity is a relay (solenoid) failure that is causing the charging
system to max out, although I would expect that to show up on both house and
engine systems. This leads to the controls mentioned in the other reply, so that
is a good place to start. In any case check the shunt on that house ammeter so
you know the reading is accurate.

Good luck with it.

Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII WA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hulse" wrote:
>
> Hi Bob
> I have only one 300 amp alternator and have tested the regulator with another
it's ok
> Thanks.
> Fred & Jeanne Hulse
> Morristown,Arizona
> 97 WLWB41
>

[Fred Hulse]

Bob

Thanks for the tips.

I was also getting a alarm from my inverter/chargers control panel the the voltage was too high,so we are correct at that.

From all we have eliminated,it seems the charging solenoid is bad and allowing all the power to only one battery bank.I have been checking stuff on the phone with Rick Archie and making comparisons with his 97 Bird this morning.

There isn't much left,I will be able to get to Phoenix Monday and will pick up a solenoid and diode pkg.and also a battery selector switch,which is about to self destruct all by itself.

So for now it's slow down and wait for parts.

Thanks for your help Robert.

Fred

[Ron Thompson]

Be Careful and keep a close eye on those battery connections. Sounds to me like you may have a fire danger there. Just be aware and prepared and if you are on the road with the RV or at an RV park you might want to sleep somewhere besides the RV. Or disconnect all the battery power so there is no current flow. Ron Thompson -Waller, Tx. 1995 WLWB 42' (cockyfox@...) --- On Sat, 11/20/10, Fred Hulse wrote: From: Fred Hulse Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Coach Batts overcharging To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, November 20, 2010, 2:20 PM Bob Thanks for the tips. I was also getting a alarm from my inverter/chargers control panel the the voltage was too high,so we are correct at that. From all we have eliminated,it seems the charging solenoid is bad and allowing all the power to only one battery bank.I have been checking stuff on the phone with Rick Archie and making comparisons with his 97 Bird this morning. There isn't much left,I will be able to get to Phoenix Monday and will pick up a solenoid and diode pkg.and also a battery selector switch,which is about to self destruct all by itself. So for now it's slow down and wait for parts. Thanks for your help Robert. Fred

[GARY MINKER]

The likelyhood of a milled copper and brass shunt failing are near a negative number unless you run 300% current through it and melt the solder joints. The wire crimps, and hardware are more likely problems. If you need to measure DC in a line or branch, get one of these less than $100 DC clamp on ammeters. They tell you the current and the direction of flow. Don't leave home without one. gary 85pt40 --- On Sat, 11/20/10, freewill2008 wrote: From: freewill2008 Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Coach Batts overcharging To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, November 20, 2010, 1:14 PM Fred - In that case the instruments could be giving you a faulty reading. The ammeter uses a shunt which could have failed. That might lead to a faulty voltage reading as well. Another possiblity is a relay (solenoid) failure that is causing the charging system to max out, although I would expect that to show up on both house and engine systems. This leads to the controls mentioned in the other reply, so that is a good place to start. In any case check the shunt on that house ammeter so you know the reading is accurate. Good luck with it. Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII WA --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hulse" wrote: > > Hi Bob > I have only one 300 amp alternator and have tested the regulator with another it's ok > Thanks. > Fred & Jeanne Hulse > Morristown,Arizona > 97 WLWB41 >

[freewill2008]

Gary - That is exactly what I would think, but I have a bum shunt that gives bad
readings at the meter and does not pass current reliably. Hard to visually
inspect this one and I have not removed it to find out. Possibly there has been
physical damage at one of the end terminals. For now it is bypassed.

Agree 300% about the meter!

Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, GARY MINKER wrote:
>
> The likelyhood of a milled copper and brass shunt failing are near a negative
number unless you run 300% current through it and melt the solder joints. The
wire crimps, and hardware are more likely problems. If you need to measure DC
in a line or branch, get one of these less than $100 DC clamp on ammeters.Â
They tell you the current and the direction of flow. Don't leave home without
one.
> gary
> 85pt40
>
> --- On Sat, 11/20/10, freewill2008 wrote:
>
> From: freewill2008
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Coach Batts overcharging
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Saturday, November 20, 2010, 1:14 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Â
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Fred - In that case the instruments could be giving you a faulty
reading. The ammeter uses a shunt which could have failed. That might lead to
a faulty voltage reading as well.
>
>
>
> Another possiblity is a relay (solenoid) failure that is causing the charging
system to max out, although I would expect that to show up on both house and
engine systems. This leads to the controls mentioned in the other reply, so that
is a good place to start. In any case check the shunt on that house ammeter so
you know the reading is accurate.
>
>
>
> Good luck with it.
>
>
>
> Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII WA
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hulse" wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Hi Bob
>
> > I have only one 300 amp alternator and have tested the regulator with
another it's ok
>
> > Thanks.
>
> > Fred & Jeanne Hulse
>
> > Morristown,Arizona
>
> > 97 WLWB41
>
> >
>

[GARY MINKER]

Most shunts are ten millivolts (.1V) at rated current. The wiring to the meter is likely messed up or the meteris bad. Shunts are just calibrated shorts that actually have a use. gary 85pt40 --- On Mon, 11/22/10, freewill2008 wrote: From: freewill2008 Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Coach Batts overcharging To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, November 22, 2010, 12:47 PM Gary - That is exactly what I would think, but I have a bum shunt that gives bad readings at the meter and does not pass current reliably. Hard to visually inspect this one and I have not removed it to find out. Possibly there has been physical damage at one of the end terminals. For now it is bypassed. Agree 300% about the meter! Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, GARY MINKER wrote: > > The likelyhood of a milled copper and brass shunt failing are near a negative number unless you run 300% current through it and melt the solder joints. The wire crimps, and hardware are more likely problems. If you need to measure DC in a line or branch, get one of these less than $100 DC clamp on ammeters. They tell you the current and the direction of flow. Don't leave home without one. > gary > 85pt40 > > --- On Sat, 11/20/10, freewill2008 wrote: > > From: freewill2008 > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Coach Batts overcharging > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > Date: Saturday, November 20, 2010, 1:14 PM > > > > > > > >  > > > > > > > > > > Fred - In that case the instruments could be giving you a faulty reading. The ammeter uses a shunt which could have failed. That might lead to a faulty voltage reading as well. > > > > Another possiblity is a relay (solenoid) failure that is causing the charging system to max out, although I would expect that to show up on both house and engine systems. This leads to the controls mentioned in the other reply, so that is a good place to start. In any case check the shunt on that house ammeter so you know the reading is accurate. > > > > Good luck with it. > > > > Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII WA > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hulse" wrote: > > > > > > Hi Bob > > > I have only one 300 amp alternator and have tested the regulator with another it's ok > > > Thanks. > > > Fred & Jeanne Hulse > > > Morristown,Arizona > > > 97 WLWB41 > > > >