AIR SYSTEM ??

[jamiejbrandt]

I HAVE A 1990 WB40 AND WHEN I START IT IT TAKES ALONG TIME TO BUILD UP AIR
ATLEAST I THINK ITS ALONG TIME ITS NEW TO ME AND IM NOT SURE HOW LONG IT SHOULD
TAKE
ALSO I HAVE TO PUT IT IN HIGH RPM TO GET IT TO GO UP
AFTER I GET IT UP TO ABOUT 115 WHEN I BACK OUT OF DRIVEWAY BY THE TIME I GET IT
TO THE ROAD IT DROPS TO 80 THE ONLY TIME IT STAYS HIGH IS ON THE ROAD AT A GOOD
SPEED IS THIS NORMAL

ALSO THE HOSES AND THE SWITCH PLATE FOR THE GREY AND BLACK WATER DUMP IS LEAKING
A BIT NOT THAT BAD DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO GET REPLACMENT PARTS

ALL HELP IS APPRCIATED THANKS
JAMIE BRANDT
1990 WB40
FLORIDA

[Don Bradner]

The switch/valves are Clippard MJTV-4, still available from the manufacturer:
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_de...sku=MJTV-4

I've replaced both of mine as they leaked in increasing fashion.

Those small leaks, though, won't cause the problem you are seeing. You have a
significant leak somewhere, probably in the air bag system, or in the brakes.

You have two air gaugues. One is for the tag-axle air bags, and the other is for
the brakes front and rear (two needles). If you shut down, both of those should
hold air for a significant amount of time. If they do, then the problem is
elsewhere.

When I first got mine, the front air bags would significantly drop in less than
15 minutes. I'm not the one who fixed it, but I'm told that the leveler valve
was actually coming apart. Point, though, is that one way or another shutting
down when you have full air should show a symptom somewhere.

Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1

On 1/8/2011 at 8:40 PM jamiejbrandt wrote:

>I HAVE A 1990 WB40 AND WHEN I START IT IT TAKES ALONG TIME TO BUILD UP
>AIR ATLEAST I THINK ITS ALONG TIME ITS NEW TO ME AND IM NOT SURE HOW LONG
>IT SHOULD TAKE
>ALSO I HAVE TO PUT IT IN HIGH RPM TO GET IT TO GO UP
>AFTER I GET IT UP TO ABOUT 115 WHEN I BACK OUT OF DRIVEWAY BY THE TIME I
>GET IT TO THE ROAD IT DROPS TO 80 THE ONLY TIME IT STAYS HIGH IS ON THE
>ROAD AT A GOOD SPEED IS THIS NORMAL
>
>ALSO THE HOSES AND THE SWITCH PLATE FOR THE GREY AND BLACK WATER DUMP IS
>LEAKING A BIT NOT THAT BAD DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO GET REPLACMENT PARTS
>
>ALL HELP IS APPRCIATED THANKS
>JAMIE BRANDT
>1990 WB40
>FLORIDA
>

[95 BMC 37]

Brake spring chamber bad?
Marty Gregg
95BMC37
Kennewick WA

[raypander]

The first thing I would do is walk around the coach with it running and listen
for air leaks. Second, have someone do the walk around for you while you are in
the coach with it running, parking brake released and your foot on the brake
pedal.(any of the brake chambers could be leaking either on the foot brake side
or parking brake side) I'm not sure whether that air compressor is belt driven
or not but if it is, check the belt. Also, you should have a filter that catches
any moisture and "spits" it out. Sometimes that spitter valve leaks but you
should hear the leak on your walk around.
By the way, it should take less than five minutes to build your air up. Also,
if your air pressure drops to around 60 psi while driving your parking brake
will set and lock the brakes. You don't want that to happen! If you have
questions and want to e-mail me direct I will help you in any way I can. I'm not
a mechanic but, Ive owned trucks for almost 35 years so I've learned a little.
Ray Pander
2003 LXI
1988 35' FC


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "jamiejbrandt"
wrote:
>
> I HAVE A 1990 WB40 AND WHEN I START IT IT TAKES ALONG TIME TO BUILD UP AIR
ATLEAST I THINK ITS ALONG TIME ITS NEW TO ME AND IM NOT SURE HOW LONG IT SHOULD
TAKE
> ALSO I HAVE TO PUT IT IN HIGH RPM TO GET IT TO GO UP
> AFTER I GET IT UP TO ABOUT 115 WHEN I BACK OUT OF DRIVEWAY BY THE TIME I GET
IT TO THE ROAD IT DROPS TO 80 THE ONLY TIME IT STAYS HIGH IS ON THE ROAD AT A
GOOD SPEED IS THIS NORMAL
>
> ALSO THE HOSES AND THE SWITCH PLATE FOR THE GREY AND BLACK WATER DUMP IS
LEAKING A BIT NOT THAT BAD DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO GET REPLACMENT PARTS
>
> ALL HELP IS APPRCIATED THANKS
> JAMIE BRANDT
> 1990 WB40
> FLORIDA
>

[raypander]

One very important thing That I forgot to mention. If you discover a problem
with one of the brake chambers Do Not try to take the chamber apart yourself. If
you don't take it apart properly you could be injured.
Ray Pander
2003 LXI

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "jamiejbrandt"
wrote:
>
> I HAVE A 1990 WB40 AND WHEN I START IT IT TAKES ALONG TIME TO BUILD UP AIR
ATLEAST I THINK ITS ALONG TIME ITS NEW TO ME AND IM NOT SURE HOW LONG IT SHOULD
TAKE
> ALSO I HAVE TO PUT IT IN HIGH RPM TO GET IT TO GO UP
> AFTER I GET IT UP TO ABOUT 115 WHEN I BACK OUT OF DRIVEWAY BY THE TIME I GET
IT TO THE ROAD IT DROPS TO 80 THE ONLY TIME IT STAYS HIGH IS ON THE ROAD AT A
GOOD SPEED IS THIS NORMAL
>
> ALSO THE HOSES AND THE SWITCH PLATE FOR THE GREY AND BLACK WATER DUMP IS
LEAKING A BIT NOT THAT BAD DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO GET REPLACMENT PARTS
>
> ALL HELP IS APPRCIATED THANKS
> JAMIE BRANDT
> 1990 WB40
> FLORIDA
>

[Wayne Kotila]

You also could have an air brake hose leaking,I had this happen to a 1985 PT40. Whenyou step on the brake and hold it, the rubber hoses to the brake pods are pressurized and I had several of my hoses leaking where the fittings were crimped on the ends of the hoses. IfI repeatedly used the brakes or held my foot on the brake at a stop light my pressure would drop like a rock. To checkIf your hoses are leaking, walk aroundyour coach with someone stepping on the brake pedal, if you have a leak youshould be able to here it. I had to change all my hoses but the good thing was that they were inexpensive, I purchased the correct lengthhydraulic hoses and brass adaptor fittings at Mills Fleetfarm for a cost of under $10.00 per hose complete. Wayne 96PT42 --- On Sat, 1/8/11, jamiejbrandt wrote: From: jamiejbrandt Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] AIR SYSTEM ?? To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, January 8, 2011, 8:40 PM I HAVE A 1990 WB40 AND WHEN I START IT IT TAKES ALONG TIME TO BUILD UP AIR ATLEAST I THINK ITS ALONG TIME ITS NEW TO ME AND IM NOT SURE HOW LONG IT SHOULD TAKE ALSO I HAVE TO PUT IT IN HIGH RPM TO GET IT TO GO UP AFTER I GET IT UP TO ABOUT 115 WHEN I BACK OUT OF DRIVEWAY BY THE TIME I GET IT TO THE ROAD IT DROPS TO 80 THE ONLY TIME IT STAYS HIGH IS ON THE ROAD AT A GOOD SPEED IS THIS NORMAL ALSO THE HOSES AND THE SWITCH PLATE FOR THE GREY AND BLACK WATER DUMP IS LEAKING A BIT NOT THAT BAD DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO GET REPLACMENT PARTS ALL HELP IS APPRCIATED THANKS JAMIE BRANDT 1990 WB40 FLORIDA

[jamiejbrandt]

THANKS IT WAS VERY HELPFUL IM GOING TO GET THE PARTS TODAY
DON HOW LONG DOSE IT TAKE FOR YOUR RV TO REACH FULL PRESSURE
I HEAR AIR FROM UNDER THE FRONT RIGHT BEHIND THE GENNY ABOUT IN THE CENTER AND I
LOOKED AND I DO SEE SOME KIND OF VALVES BUT IM LEARY OF GETTING TO FAR UNDER THE
RV AND SCREWING WITH THEM I NEED TO FIND A COMPANY THAT DOSE THIS I GUESS
ANYWAY THANKS AGAIN

JAMIE BRANDT
1990 WB40
FLORIDA


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner" wrote:
>
> The switch/valves are Clippard MJTV-4, still available from the manufacturer:
> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_de...sku=MJTV-4
>
> I've replaced both of mine as they leaked in increasing fashion.
>
> Those small leaks, though, won't cause the problem you are seeing. You have a
significant leak somewhere, probably in the air bag system, or in the brakes.
>
> You have two air gaugues. One is for the tag-axle air bags, and the other is
for the brakes front and rear (two needles). If you shut down, both of those
should hold air for a significant amount of time. If they do, then the problem
is elsewhere.
>
> When I first got mine, the front air bags would significantly drop in less
than 15 minutes. I'm not the one who fixed it, but I'm told that the leveler
valve was actually coming apart. Point, though, is that one way or another
shutting down when you have full air should show a symptom somewhere.
>
> Don Bradner
> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1
>
> On 1/8/2011 at 8:40 PM jamiejbrandt wrote:
>
> >I HAVE A 1990 WB40 AND WHEN I START IT IT TAKES ALONG TIME TO BUILD UP
> >AIR ATLEAST I THINK ITS ALONG TIME ITS NEW TO ME AND IM NOT SURE HOW LONG
> >IT SHOULD TAKE
> >ALSO I HAVE TO PUT IT IN HIGH RPM TO GET IT TO GO UP
> >AFTER I GET IT UP TO ABOUT 115 WHEN I BACK OUT OF DRIVEWAY BY THE TIME I
> >GET IT TO THE ROAD IT DROPS TO 80 THE ONLY TIME IT STAYS HIGH IS ON THE
> >ROAD AT A GOOD SPEED IS THIS NORMAL
> >
> >ALSO THE HOSES AND THE SWITCH PLATE FOR THE GREY AND BLACK WATER DUMP IS
> >LEAKING A BIT NOT THAT BAD DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO GET REPLACMENT PARTS
> >
> >ALL HELP IS APPRCIATED THANKS
> >JAMIE BRANDT
> >1990 WB40
> >FLORIDA
> >
>

[Roger W Webb]

You might want to consider taking it to a truck shop that can pull it over a pit, find and fix leaks. They can do a DOT test on your brakes, etc. Brake work is fairly inexpensive, as it is what all semi's use. The air system is also not expensive with the exception of replacing the air bags themselves.

FWIW my suspension system will stay 'up' for a long time (days), whereas my brake system bleeds down to zero within 6+ hours after turning everything off. To air up, after I've dumped suspension and zero showing on the brake air gage, to a full 120 psi I give my coach about 20 minutes on the engine compressor.

Lastly, I'd also note that air leaks for other components can cause you problems too. Late this year I had an leak in a small diameter air line that went to the old water purification system under the bed (the filter was not hooked up, but the air was). For what ever reason it started leaking and I could not air up the coach above 60 psi (as shown on the brake gage), the suspension would not air either. I looked/listened everywhere, (outside), crawled under best I could, cursed a lot and finally heard the hissing in the bedroom that disappeared within seconds after shutting off the engine. After a bed disassembly, I turned off a regulator and whala, it aired up.

Roger Webb

Cedar Rapids, IA

91 WL

-----Original Message-----

From: jamiejbrandt

To: WanderlodgeForum

Sent: Mon, Jan 10, 2011 5:01 am

Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: AIR SYSTEM ??

THANKS IT WAS VERY HELPFUL IM GOING TO GET THE PARTS TODAY

DON HOW LONG DOSE IT TAKE FOR YOUR RV TO REACH FULL PRESSURE

I HEAR AIR FROM UNDER THE FRONT RIGHT BEHIND THE GENNY ABOUT IN THE CENTER AND I LOOKED AND I DO SEE SOME KIND OF VALVES BUT IM LEARY OF GETTING TO FAR UNDER THE RV AND SCREWING WITH THEM I NEED TO FIND A COMPANY THAT DOSE THIS I GUESS ANYWAY THANKS AGAIN



JAMIE BRANDT

1990 WB40

FLORIDA



--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "Don Bradner" wrote:

>

> The switch/valves are Clippard MJTV-4, still available from the manufacturer:

> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_de...sku=MJTV-4

>

> I've replaced both of mine as they leaked in increasing fashion.

>

> Those small leaks, though, won't cause the problem you are seeing. You have a significant leak somewhere, probably in the air bag system, or in the brakes.

>

> You have two air gaugues. One is for the tag-axle air bags, and the other is for the brakes front and rear (two needles). If you shut down, both of those should hold air for a significant amount of time. If they do, then the problem is elsewhere.

>

> When I first got mine, the front air bags would significantly drop in less than 15 minutes. I'm not the one who fixed it, but I'm told that the leveler valve was actually coming apart. Point, though, is that one way or another shutting down when you have full air should show a symptom somewhere.

>

> Don Bradner

> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"

> My location: www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1

>

> On 1/8/2011 at 8:40 PM jamiejbrandt wrote:

>

> >I HAVE A 1990 WB40 AND WHEN I START IT IT TAKES ALONG TIME TO BUILD UP

> >AIR ATLEAST I THINK ITS ALONG TIME ITS NEW TO ME AND IM NOT SURE HOW LONG

> >IT SHOULD TAKE

> >ALSO I HAVE TO PUT IT IN HIGH RPM TO GET IT TO GO UP

> >AFTER I GET IT UP TO ABOUT 115 WHEN I BACK OUT OF DRIVEWAY BY THE TIME I

> >GET IT TO THE ROAD IT DROPS TO 80 THE ONLY TIME IT STAYS HIGH IS ON THE

> >ROAD AT A GOOD SPEED IS THIS NORMAL

> >

> >ALSO THE HOSES AND THE SWITCH PLATE FOR THE GREY AND BLACK WATER DUMP IS

> >LEAKING A BIT NOT THAT BAD DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO GET REPLACMENT PARTS

> >

> >ALL HELP IS APPRCIATED THANKS

> >JAMIE BRANDT

> >1990 WB40

> >FLORIDA

> >

>

[Don Bradner]

I really don't know how long it takes to air my coach up with the engine because
I never do it that way. My startup procedure involves using both block heater
and aux air pump from the time I get up on any morning I'm going to travel -
that way I can just start and almost immediately roll.

Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1

On 1/10/2011 at 2:44 PM jamiejbrandt wrote:

>THANKS IT WAS VERY HELPFUL IM GOING TO GET THE PARTS TODAY
>DON HOW LONG DOSE IT TAKE FOR YOUR RV TO REACH FULL PRESSURE
>I HEAR AIR FROM UNDER THE FRONT RIGHT BEHIND THE GENNY ABOUT IN THE CENTER
>AND I LOOKED AND I DO SEE SOME KIND OF VALVES BUT IM LEARY OF GETTING TO
>FAR UNDER THE RV AND SCREWING WITH THEM I NEED TO FIND A COMPANY THAT
>DOSE THIS I GUESS ANYWAY THANKS AGAIN
>
>JAMIE BRANDT
>1990 WB40
>FLORIDA
>
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
>wrote:
>>
>> The switch/valves are Clippard MJTV-4, still available from the
>manufacturer:
>> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_de...sku=MJTV-4
>>
>> I've replaced both of mine as they leaked in increasing fashion.
>>
>> Those small leaks, though, won't cause the problem you are seeing. You
>have a significant leak somewhere, probably in the air bag system, or in
>the brakes.
>>
>> You have two air gaugues. One is for the tag-axle air bags, and the
>other is for the brakes front and rear (two needles). If you shut down,
>both of those should hold air for a significant amount of time. If they
>do, then the problem is elsewhere.
>>
>> When I first got mine, the front air bags would significantly drop in
>less than 15 minutes. I'm not the one who fixed it, but I'm told that the
>leveler valve was actually coming apart. Point, though, is that one way or
>another shutting down when you have full air should show a symptom
>somewhere.
>>
>> Don Bradner
>> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
>> My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1
>>
>> On 1/8/2011 at 8:40 PM jamiejbrandt wrote:
>>
>> >I HAVE A 1990 WB40 AND WHEN I START IT IT TAKES ALONG TIME TO BUILD UP
>> >AIR ATLEAST I THINK ITS ALONG TIME ITS NEW TO ME AND IM NOT SURE HOW
>LONG
>> >IT SHOULD TAKE
>> >ALSO I HAVE TO PUT IT IN HIGH RPM TO GET IT TO GO UP
>> >AFTER I GET IT UP TO ABOUT 115 WHEN I BACK OUT OF DRIVEWAY BY THE TIME I
>> >GET IT TO THE ROAD IT DROPS TO 80 THE ONLY TIME IT STAYS HIGH IS ON THE
>> >ROAD AT A GOOD SPEED IS THIS NORMAL
>> >
>> >ALSO THE HOSES AND THE SWITCH PLATE FOR THE GREY AND BLACK WATER DUMP IS
>> >LEAKING A BIT NOT THAT BAD DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO GET REPLACMENT
>PARTS
>> >
>> >ALL HELP IS APPRCIATED THANKS
>> >JAMIE BRANDT
>> >1990 WB40
>> >FLORIDA
>> >
>>
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

[Leroy]

The standards for airing up and testing brakes for your air brake system are the
same as a big rig. The following link will provide guidelines for testing your
brakes and timing of air loss. As an OTR driver I perform these tests daily so
nothing grabs me at 70mph and 80K pounds. It would give you and indication of
where to start looking also. Some of the information is not applicable to the
coach because you do not have air brakes on a trailer. You bleed down test is
exceedingly important to check the protection valve.
http://iowadot.gov/mvd/ods/cdl/section5.pdf.

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "jamiejbrandt"
wrote:
>
> I HAVE A 1990 WB40 AND WHEN I START IT IT TAKES ALONG TIME TO BUILD UP AIR
ATLEAST I THINK ITS ALONG TIME ITS NEW TO ME AND IM NOT SURE HOW LONG IT SHOULD
TAKE
> ALSO I HAVE TO PUT IT IN HIGH RPM TO GET IT TO GO UP
> AFTER I GET IT UP TO ABOUT 115 WHEN I BACK OUT OF DRIVEWAY BY THE TIME I GET
IT TO THE ROAD IT DROPS TO 80 THE ONLY TIME IT STAYS HIGH IS ON THE ROAD AT A
GOOD SPEED IS THIS NORMAL
>
> ALSO THE HOSES AND THE SWITCH PLATE FOR THE GREY AND BLACK WATER DUMP IS
LEAKING A BIT NOT THAT BAD DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO GET REPLACMENT PARTS
>
> ALL HELP IS APPRCIATED THANKS
> JAMIE BRANDT
> 1990 WB40
> FLORIDA
>