Paint codes and primers

[Jay Darst]

Took the Bird to the local Truck wash for a bath. High pressure blew
some paint off in a few small places. I can see what appears to be
galvanized steel where the paint is missing.

How do I acquire the right color paint?

What preperation and/or primer (to be applied over the galvanized
metal) should go on first?

Anybody else had any experience with touching up their paint?

Thanks
Jay Darst
85PT40
Springfield, IL

[Stephen]

I just took off my Generator Door off to be rebuilt. So while it was off- It
has the 2 primary colors in it. My local automotive paint shop in Tampa was
able to can the paint from the door, and mix me up some Urethane colors to
match the original perfectly, so I can spray touch up a few places as you
spoke about. I believe the colors were derived from 80's Chrysler Colors,
mixed with some others.Copper Metallic, and Creme



Stephen

81 FC-33SB

Plant City, Fl





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From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jay Darst
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 11:50 PM
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Paint codes and primers



Took the Bird to the local Truck wash for a bath. High pressure blew
some paint off in a few small places. I can see what appears to be
galvanized steel where the paint is missing.

How do I acquire the right color paint?

What preperation and/or primer (to be applied over the galvanized
metal) should go on first?

Anybody else had any experience with touching up their paint?

Thanks
Jay Darst
85PT40
Springfield, IL






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[Robert Johannesen]

Jay,
When I painted my last coach - first, I decided which paint ($) I was going
to use. I picked Imron, and then (after talking to the company rep for a long
time) I used the manufacturer's recommended surface prep and
primer/sealer/fillers so that everything would be compatible. The paint turned
out great, but I did 22 days of prep and stripping and 2-3 days of painting.
Makes the paint jobs in Mexico real attractive! I had about $1600.00 in
material in 1979. But, I would do it again if I had a paint booth! Good luck.

Bob & Judy Johannesen
1991 WLWB 40 "Seldom Blue"
Argyle, Texas


Jay Darst wrote:
Took the Bird to the local Truck wash for a bath. High pressure blew
some paint off in a few small places. I can see what appears to be
galvanized steel where the paint is missing.

How do I acquire the right color paint?

What preperation and/or primer (to be applied over the galvanized
metal) should go on first?

Anybody else had any experience with touching up their paint?

Thanks
Jay Darst
85PT40
Springfield, IL





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jay Darst]

Thanks Bob, appreciate your comments on painting the Bird.

Stephen Birtles sent me a mail that indicates using Corlar Acid Etch
as the material to apply over the galvanized metal. Then an epoxy
primer then the paint.

After researching these products on Dupont's website, looks like
this will be the process, including the Imron.

So again, appreciate your input!

Jay Darst
85PT40
Springfield, IL where the truck wash has some extremely high
pressure, enough to remove some paint! (especially if its weakly
clinging to your Bird)



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Robert Johannesen
wrote:
>
> Jay,
> When I painted my last coach - first, I decided which paint
($) I was going to use. I picked Imron, and then (after talking to
the company rep for a long time) I used the manufacturer's
recommended surface prep and primer/sealer/fillers so that
everything would be compatible. The paint turned out great, but I
did 22 days of prep and stripping and 2-3 days of painting. Makes
the paint jobs in Mexico real attractive! I had about $1600.00 in
material in 1979. But, I would do it again if I had a paint booth!
Good luck.
>
> Bob & Judy Johannesen
> 1991 WLWB 40 "Seldom Blue"
> Argyle, Texas
>
>
> Jay Darst wrote:
> Took the Bird to the local Truck wash for a bath. High pressure
blew
> some paint off in a few small places. I can see what appears to be
> galvanized steel where the paint is missing.
>
> How do I acquire the right color paint?
>
> What preperation and/or primer (to be applied over the galvanized
> metal) should go on first?
>
> Anybody else had any experience with touching up their paint?
>
> Thanks
> Jay Darst
> 85PT40
> Springfield, IL
>
>
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Recreational vehicles Wanderlodge Automotive
maintenance Recreational vehicle dealer Used recreational
vehicles Automotive radiators
>
> ---------------------------------
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>
>
> Visit your group "WanderlodgeForum" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> WanderlodgeForum-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Relax. Yahoo! Mail virus scanning helps detect nasty viruses!
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Jerry]

I hope you folks know that Imron is deadly if the fumes are breathed. It is
mandatory that you use a clean air supplied air mask and clothing that
protects your skin also.



Jerry

Looking





_____

From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jay Darst
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 4:47 PM
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Paint codes and primers



Thanks Bob, appreciate your comments on painting the Bird.

Stephen Birtles sent me a mail that indicates using Corlar Acid Etch
as the material to apply over the galvanized metal. Then an epoxy
primer then the paint.

After researching these products on Dupont's website, looks like
this will be the process, including the Imron.

So again, appreciate your input!

Jay Darst
85PT40
Springfield, IL where the truck wash has some extremely high
pressure, enough to remove some paint! (especially if its weakly
clinging to your Bird)



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Robert Johannesen
wrote:
>
> Jay,
> When I painted my last coach - first, I decided which paint
($) I was going to use. I picked Imron, and then (after talking to
the company rep for a long time) I used the manufacturer's
recommended surface prep and primer/sealer/fillers so that
everything would be compatible. The paint turned out great, but I
did 22 days of prep and stripping and 2-3 days of painting. Makes
the paint jobs in Mexico real attractive! I had about $1600.00 in
material in 1979. But, I would do it again if I had a paint booth!
Good luck.
>
> Bob & Judy Johannesen
> 1991 WLWB 40 "Seldom Blue"
> Argyle, Texas
>
>
> Jay Darst wrote:
> Took the Bird to the local Truck wash for a bath. High pressure
blew
> some paint off in a few small places. I can see what appears to be
> galvanized steel where the paint is missing.
>
> How do I acquire the right color paint?
>
> What preperation and/or primer (to be applied over the galvanized
> metal) should go on first?
>
> Anybody else had any experience with touching up their paint?
>
> Thanks
> Jay Darst
> 85PT40
> Springfield, IL
>
>
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Recreational vehicles Wanderlodge Automotive
maintenance Recreational vehicle dealer Used recreational
vehicles Automotive radiators
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> Visit your group "WanderlodgeForum" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> WanderlodgeForum-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Relax. Yahoo! Mail virus scanning helps detect nasty viruses!
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jim King]

Bob,
My dad was a Vehicle maintenance supervisor for an Air Force base motor pool
and he was certainly sold on the beauty and especially the durability of Imron
paint.
Do you remember how much pain it took and how much prep before the primer?

Jim & Barb King
Wanderlodge wannabees
Heyburn, Idaho

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[George Lowry]

Jim,

Back in those days, Imron was the best you could buy. Unfortunately,
the environmentalists have raised such a ruckus that Imron is no
longer the paint it once was, nor is it the best available. You can
still buy the goo Imron outside of the US but not in the US. The
newer base coat/clear coat have surpassed Imron in quality in the
US.... One of these is the R-M Dinamint which is used on top line
vehicles such as Cadillac, BMW, etc.

George Lowry
'06 Alpine Apex - Formerly '95 WBDA 4203
Spearfish, SD - Floating at FMCA in Pomona...

Jim King wrote:

> Bob,
> My dad was a Vehicle maintenance supervisor for an Air Force base motor
pool and he was certainly sold on the beauty and especially the durability of
Imron paint.
> Do you remember how much pain it took and how much prep before the primer?
>
> Jim & Barb King
> Wanderlodge wannabees
> Heyburn, Idaho
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

[Robert Johannesen]

Jim, I also use the D-M clearcoat/basecoat urethane system now. The new stuff
is so forgiving and easy to repair. I had an 18 wheeler hit the rear of my
enclosed trailer and pushed the rear door frame about 6 inches forward on one
side. I just replaced the panel and straightened out the aluminum frame, and
used the D-M paint and it matched the Bird perfectly. But the long hours of prep
are still required. Good luck and have fun -

Bob & Judy Johannesen
91 WLWB 40 "Seldom Blue"
Argyle, Texas lots of rain -arks floatin' by.....

George Lowry wrote:
Jim,

Back in those days, Imron was the best you could buy. Unfortunately,
the environmentalists have raised such a ruckus that Imron is no
longer the paint it once was, nor is it the best available. You can
still buy the goo Imron outside of the US but not in the US. The
newer base coat/clear coat have surpassed Imron in quality in the
US.... One of these is the R-M Dinamint which is used on top line
vehicles such as Cadillac, BMW, etc.

George Lowry
'06 Alpine Apex - Formerly '95 WBDA 4203
Spearfish, SD - Floating at FMCA in Pomona...

Jim King wrote:

> Bob,
> My dad was a Vehicle maintenance supervisor for an Air Force base motor
pool and he was certainly sold on the beauty and especially the durability of
Imron paint.
> Do you remember how much pain it took and how much prep before the primer?
>
> Jim & Barb King
> Wanderlodge wannabees
> Heyburn, Idaho
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


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Recreational vehicle dealer Used recreational vehicles Automotive radiators

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