battery update, Air Step, Primus

[jvredden@...]

There is a note in the database of this web site telling of the company that
provided PRIMUS to the RV industry. Mark Dexter. Mardex was his company.
He will provide information and service for PRIMUS. He is located in Elkhart
Indiana. There is an over temp safety switch on each PRIKUS boiler. If you
follow the hot water line out you should see them. It is a small red button
with two wires on either side. Mr Dexter told me that the over temp switch's
were required by RVIA but not necessary or used in Europe. You can bypass
them by pulling the wires and using a bayonet fuse to jumper the wires
together. I have my switch's being used because they still work, but you could
use
the jumper process noted above to test them.

You can test the circulation pumps by relocating a wire on the relay above
the boiler. Its the center wire that is taken from the outer pole to the
center pole. When you do that you should be able to hear the pump and see the
stream. ( call Bennie at BB for specific instructions...he told me how to do
it) Usually if the circ pumps are bad you get the boiler to fire off but the
overtemp switch will cut off the boiler when the failure to circulate lets
the water get too hot. The read light on the control panel should only flash
red when the boilers fire off. If the red light stays on you do not have the
primus firing off. They way you can see if you have a circulation
problem..You should be able to observe the coolant stream coming into the top
of the
header tank of the PRIMUS.

I have the instruction manuals for PRIMUS that came with the coach. I will
be happy to make them available to you if you like. Contact me at
704-664-3121.

Hoe this helps

john redden
91 PT-40


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Julia Bonser]

1. After researching batteries and getting quotes we decided to go
for the Trojan AGM BCI Group Size 31. These should last longer than
our previous batteries. The only place to buy the full range of
Trojan Batteries instead of marine batteries was here in Madison at:

Wisconson Power Control, LLC
6909 Raywood Rd. Ste. B1 Madison WI 53713
Telephone
608.663.4604
Contact Greg Fitch URL http://www.wipowercontrol.com

They did a first rate job of installing our new batteries. The frame
that held down the wet cell batteries interfered with the terminals
so they strapped each battery down and put a thin sheet of fiber
glass between the terminals and steel walls as extra insulation just
in case there was some shifting of batteries. We asked for a discount
because we were buying 8 batteries so what he did was not charge for
the installation. It took about 4 hours but we are sure it was done
right. We also learned that in spite of the automatic watering
system we had installed the last batteries in each bank was dry. This
was the automatic system sold by Camping World.

2. I did not get any response about how to determine where the valve
is for the air step. It is leaking and we are having problems with
step retracting properly and now it won't lock out all the time. I
need to know how to find it and tighten it.

3. We looked for the switch/button? behind the Primus boilers to
reset. Our boiler controlled from the Driver's Seat in front is not
igniting. At least that is what I think having the red light flicker
off and then come on and stay on. Any more directions on just where
it would be and what it would look like. A picture would be great!

We are operating with just the rear controlled primus and it is not
keeping up as we would like with the cold nights here in Madison. It
seems to have lost some of it's heating capacity and I don't know
what would cause that. We both remember that it used to put out more
heat and just one was sufficient to keep us warm below freezing.


Julie Bonser
1992 WLWB PT 40'
Madison, WI dry camping in a parking lot Days in the 40's nights in
the high 10's.

[ronmarabito2002]

Julia:

The reset button is in the output line (hose) coming from the
boiler. Since you have two boilers, there are two resets. If you
can't see them, they will probably be less than 12" from the boiler
and by running your hand along that hose, you can't miss them. If
they will not hold when re-set, then simply tie the two wires together
and take the buttons out of the system. They are backup high
temperature switchs and will not compromise the system.

As far as not heating like the system used to: might be due to
many things. Have you noticed how long the boilers operate before
shutting off? Have you turned your control knob CW as far as it will
go on the panel? If you have and you are not getting enough heat,
then the control board could be defective, the Thermister, located in
the galley area could be bad or you could have air trapped in the
system preventing proper flow.

Let us know more about what you find. (Suggest you move back to
where it is warmer) (BG)

R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Julia Bonser wrote:
>
> 1. After researching batteries and getting quotes we decided to go
> for the Trojan AGM BCI Group Size 31. These should last longer than
> our previous batteries. The only place to buy the full range of
> Trojan Batteries instead of marine batteries was here in Madison at:
>
> Wisconson Power Control, LLC
> 6909 Raywood Rd. Ste. B1 Madison WI 53713
> Telephone
> 608.663.4604
> Contact Greg Fitch URL http://www.wipowercontrol.com
>
> They did a first rate job of installing our new batteries. The frame
> that held down the wet cell batteries interfered with the terminals
> so they strapped each battery down and put a thin sheet of fiber
> glass between the terminals and steel walls as extra insulation just
> in case there was some shifting of batteries. We asked for a discount
> because we were buying 8 batteries so what he did was not charge for
> the installation. It took about 4 hours but we are sure it was done
> right. We also learned that in spite of the automatic watering
> system we had installed the last batteries in each bank was dry. This
> was the automatic system sold by Camping World.
>
> 2. I did not get any response about how to determine where the valve
> is for the air step. It is leaking and we are having problems with
> step retracting properly and now it won't lock out all the time. I
> need to know how to find it and tighten it.
>
> 3. We looked for the switch/button? behind the Primus boilers to
> reset. Our boiler controlled from the Driver's Seat in front is not
> igniting. At least that is what I think having the red light flicker
> off and then come on and stay on. Any more directions on just where
> it would be and what it would look like. A picture would be great!
>
> We are operating with just the rear controlled primus and it is not
> keeping up as we would like with the cold nights here in Madison. It
> seems to have lost some of it's heating capacity and I don't know
> what would cause that. We both remember that it used to put out more
> heat and just one was sufficient to keep us warm below freezing.
>
>
> Julie Bonser
> 1992 WLWB PT 40'
> Madison, WI dry camping in a parking lot Days in the 40's nights in
> the high 10's.
>

[Julia Bonser]

The rear boiler will operate as long as it is called on. The setting
on the CW is the same setting as in the past which is a comfortable
temperature for us. We suspect it is air trapped in the system as the
reservoirs were quite low when we added antifreeze.

I wish we could have stayed where it was warmer. Unfortunately due to
having a HMO we had to return to frigid Wisconsin for Dick to get
medical care. He had his blood work today and sees the Dr. on Friday
to figure out what next.

I may have to learn mechanical skills at my advanced age to keep this
bird going. Perhaps it will prevent "Old Timers Disease" by keeping
my brain learning new things.

Julie Bonser
1992 WLWB PT 40'


On Mar 22, 2006, at 9:30 PM, ronmarabito2002 wrote:

> As far as not heating like the system used to: might be due to
> many things. Have you noticed how long the boilers operate before
> shutting off? Have you turned your control knob CW as far as it will
> go on the panel? If you have and you are not getting enough heat,
> then the control board could be defective, the Thermister, located in
> the galley area could be bad or you could have air trapped in the
> system preventing proper flow.
>
> Let us know more about what you find. (Suggest you move back to
> where it is warmer) (BG)

[jvredden@...]

Follow up on PRIMUS help. Mark Dexter phone number is 574-293-4328.

He is listed as the contact person for PRIMUS in my data with my coach. I
did speak with him once and he has a wealth of info regarding the system.

When I was at RIV last year at a BB question answer session I asked Mike
Burchett with BB about hydronic heat and the difference between aquahot.webasto
and primus. He said that if your burners were working that he liked the
primus system best. If not it can be modified with a webasto burner. He was
pretty up beat on keeping the PRIMUS if it was working. A call to dexter or
cape inovations that lists on this website can provide all the information
needed to keep your PRIMUS perking along. I expect that cape inovations will
be
easier to access and achieve a positive end his login is cape0001

johnredden
91 PT40


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ronmarabito2002]

Playing your current role, you will definitely learn much about your
coach. That's not all bad. Hope you get to the bottom of Dick's
health problems. Good luck and let us know how we can help.

R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Julia Bonser wrote:
>
> The rear boiler will operate as long as it is called on. The setting
> on the CW is the same setting as in the past which is a comfortable
> temperature for us. We suspect it is air trapped in the system as the
> reservoirs were quite low when we added antifreeze.
>
> I wish we could have stayed where it was warmer. Unfortunately due to
> having a HMO we had to return to frigid Wisconsin for Dick to get
> medical care. He had his blood work today and sees the Dr. on Friday
> to figure out what next.
>
> I may have to learn mechanical skills at my advanced age to keep this
> bird going. Perhaps it will prevent "Old Timers Disease" by keeping
> my brain learning new things.
>
> Julie Bonser
> 1992 WLWB PT 40'
>
>
> On Mar 22, 2006, at 9:30 PM, ronmarabito2002 wrote:
>
> > As far as not heating like the system used to: might be due to
> > many things. Have you noticed how long the boilers operate before
> > shutting off? Have you turned your control knob CW as far as it will
> > go on the panel? If you have and you are not getting enough heat,
> > then the control board could be defective, the Thermister, located in
> > the galley area could be bad or you could have air trapped in the
> > system preventing proper flow.
> >
> > Let us know more about what you find. (Suggest you move back to
> > where it is warmer) (BG)
>

[ronmarabito2002]

By the way: When you said the rear boiler will operate as long as
called on; please explain. Does it ever shut off? While in full
operation does it not give even heat along the entire coach driver's
side? You can go the full length of the coach and feel the heat along
the baseboard. Make sure that it is even all the way. Is your fan
working in the galley? By running the fan on higher speeds, you can
heat the coach more. Let me know the answers.

R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Julia Bonser wrote:
>
> The rear boiler will operate as long as it is called on. The setting
> on the CW is the same setting as in the past which is a comfortable
> temperature for us. We suspect it is air trapped in the system as the
> reservoirs were quite low when we added antifreeze.
>
> I wish we could have stayed where it was warmer. Unfortunately due to
> having a HMO we had to return to frigid Wisconsin for Dick to get
> medical care. He had his blood work today and sees the Dr. on Friday
> to figure out what next.
>
> I may have to learn mechanical skills at my advanced age to keep this
> bird going. Perhaps it will prevent "Old Timers Disease" by keeping
> my brain learning new things.
>
> Julie Bonser
> 1992 WLWB PT 40'
>
>
> On Mar 22, 2006, at 9:30 PM, ronmarabito2002 wrote:
>
> > As far as not heating like the system used to: might be due to
> > many things. Have you noticed how long the boilers operate before
> > shutting off? Have you turned your control knob CW as far as it will
> > go on the panel? If you have and you are not getting enough heat,
> > then the control board could be defective, the Thermister, located in
> > the galley area could be bad or you could have air trapped in the
> > system preventing proper flow.
> >
> > Let us know more about what you find. (Suggest you move back to
> > where it is warmer) (BG)
>

[Julia Bonser]

I meant as long as heat is required it operates. It stops when it
gets to about 70 in the front where the sensor is.
Heat is going the full length of the coach on the driver's side. The
fan in the galley is turned up to full but doesn't operate as often
as we would like. The fan under the couch operates frequently.

The curb side heat circulates when we are running down the road with
the moto raid on so we are pretty sure the pump is working.

By the way the temperature in the front this morning was 65 which is
5 degrees warmer than yesterday's 60. I suspect it didn't get quite
as cold last night.

Steve Birtles said to give him a call that he might be able to help.
So I will call him when we go outside to look at the system again.

Julie Bonser
1992 WLWB PT 40'



On Mar 23, 2006, at 9:03 AM, ronmarabito2002 wrote:

> By the way: When you said the rear boiler will operate as long as
> called on; please explain. Does it ever shut off? While in full
> operation does it not give even heat along the entire coach driver's
> side? You can go the full length of the coach and feel the heat along
> the baseboard. Make sure that it is even all the way. Is your fan
> working in the galley? By running the fan on higher speeds, you can
> heat the coach more. Let me know the answers.

[ronmarabito2002]

Are you sure the fan under the couch is connected to the Primus.
As far as I knew, there was only one fan per side. Do you happen to
have an electric heater under the couch that is on? Since it is
shutting down at 70 degrees, either the Thermistor is going bad or you
need to turn the knob on the controller, further clockwise to get the
heat up more.

There is also a rheostat in the galley that controls the fan
speed. Is it turned up fully?

R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, tX 92WB40

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Julia Bonser wrote:
>
> I meant as long as heat is required it operates. It stops when it
> gets to about 70 in the front where the sensor is.
> Heat is going the full length of the coach on the driver's side. The
> fan in the galley is turned up to full but doesn't operate as often
> as we would like. The fan under the couch operates frequently.
>
> The curb side heat circulates when we are running down the road with
> the moto raid on so we are pretty sure the pump is working.
>
> By the way the temperature in the front this morning was 65 which is
> 5 degrees warmer than yesterday's 60. I suspect it didn't get quite
> as cold last night.
>
> Steve Birtles said to give him a call that he might be able to help.
> So I will call him when we go outside to look at the system again.
>
> Julie Bonser
> 1992 WLWB PT 40'
>
>
>
> On Mar 23, 2006, at 9:03 AM, ronmarabito2002 wrote:
>
> > By the way: When you said the rear boiler will operate as long as
> > called on; please explain. Does it ever shut off? While in full
> > operation does it not give even heat along the entire coach driver's
> > side? You can go the full length of the coach and feel the heat along
> > the baseboard. Make sure that it is even all the way. Is your fan
> > working in the galley? By running the fan on higher speeds, you can
> > heat the coach more. Let me know the answers.
>

[Julia Bonser]

Yes I am sure the fan under the couch is connected to the Primus it
comes on when the heat gets high. The electric heater is under the
front console. The Primus is shutting down at 70 because that is
where we have it set. It cycles on and off according to where the
temperature is set.

The rheostat for the couch is between the couch and the drivers seat
and is turned up to maximum and the rheostat in the galley is turned
up all the way.

We usually just use the rear controlled Primus because that was
plenty to keep us warm. We used it in Dec. and part of January and
then decided electricity was cheaper than propane where we were
staying. My concern is the heat output doesn't seem as hot as it
used to.

We found the high temp switches for both burners today. The rear
burner/driver's side heat was operating we pushed the button for the
curb side heat but when I turned on the heat it tried to ignite but
didn't and the red light came on. I think the next thing to try and
clear any air out of the lines.

It was snowing all day today so we didn't want to take the time to go
through the process of getting rid of air in the lines. We are
getting by the way we are because we run the generator to recharge
the batteries and run the electric heaters a couple of times a day. I
don't mind the air being cool in the morning as long as it isn't much
below 64. There have been a couple of morning where the temperature
in the front is in the 50's.

Julie Bonser
1992 WLWB PT 40'



On Mar 23, 2006, at 5:23 PM, ronmarabito2002 wrote:

> Are you sure the fan under the couch is connected to the Primus.
> As far as I knew, there was only one fan per side. Do you happen to
> have an electric heater under the couch that is on? Since it is
> shutting down at 70 degrees, either the Thermistor is going bad or you
> need to turn the knob on the controller, further clockwise to get the
> heat up more.
>
> There is also a rheostat in the galley that controls the fan
> speed. Is it turned up fully?
>