1988 FC water coach heater question

[Curt Sprenger]

That's right Dick.

What I did was to cut off the 1" lines at the radiator (two) and the one
up front forward of the co-pilot seat. My concern was the original 1"
lines would spring a leak and cause problems. It was to be a future
project but the coach was sold. Just run the generator for 20 minutes
and you will have hot water for the coach and if plugged in you get the
same result...providing everything is in working order. You can always
tackle the engine water circulation/heating system project in the future.

Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.



Richard Hayden wrote:

> Same basic system on the FC Kevin. As I recall there 3 manual valves,
> which is what I had on my FC also. If you close those, the Sporland
> valves associated with the "summer/summer" switch won't have any
> effect. You also won't have any hot water from the engine when
> running. So, one of those valves is for the hot water and maybe you
> wouldn't want to close that one.
>
> Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: krminyl@...
> To:
> WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 7:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] 1988 FC water coach heater question
>
>
> Bruce,
>
> I can't offer much help, but I'm sure other FC owners will chime
> in. I have
> a 86 PT, and there are plumbing-style gate valves in my engine
> compartment
> that can be manually cranked closed (similar to turning off the
> water to your
> home sprinkler system). This prohibits coolant/antifreeze from
> circulating
> to your heaters, and closes the engine coolant system to just the
> engine
> radiator.
>
> I would think the FC's have a similar system. The winter/summer
> switch on
> my PT opens or closes a Sporlan valve in my engine compartment
> which allows
> the coolant to flow into the chassis heater system, and the "Aux
> Pump" switch
> is a booster flow pump that helps push all that coolant through 70'
> of coolant
> hoses and heater cores.
>
> Look for that Sporlan valve (in-line brass device with a
> electromagnetic
> solenoid on top with two wires)...it can be rebuilt for about $15,
> or replaced
> for about $40. Since it's summer, if your BB has those gate valves,
> maybe you
> can just close off the chassis heaters from the BB's engine cooling
> system,
> and fix the Sporlan valve when it's convenient.
>
> How about some FC's owners...any suggestions or advice?
>
> Best of luck...I can only imagine what it's like competing against
> chassis
> heaters in 100 degree weather with the A/C.
>
> Kevin McKeown
> Yorba Linda, CA (about 85 beautiful degrees today!)
> 1986 38' PT
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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