Removing the Power Steering Gearbox, 78 FC33; 3208

[Tom Warner]

Two questions, the tension on the power steering belt, and how many
are there and what order on the pullys.

On my1982 FC35 there are:

water pump: 2 ea XL25-9490
power steering: 2 ea XL25-9370
air conditioner compressor: 1 ea XL25-9690
Horton air fan: 1 ea XL25-9451
chassis air pump: 2 ea XL25-9580

As to the tension:

3/8" V belts; 120# when new 60-90 # after 30 minutes run in
1/2# V belts: 120# when new 70-90 # after 30 minutes run in
5/8" V belts: 120# when new 89-90 # after 30 minutes run in


you have all 1/2 inch V belts on the front of your engine. The order
of the belts I have listed are from the rear of the pullys forward

tom warner
vernon center,NY
1985 PT40


At 11:30 PM 6/16/2006, you wrote:

>I picked up a Krikit belt tension meter this afternoon. How much
>tension should there be on the PS belt?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Danny
>FC33, 1978
>San Jose, CA
>
>--- In
>WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
>Tom Warner
>wrote:
> >
> >
> > Danny forgot to add that you want the type 1 Kriket
> > tool. <http://tinyurl.com/e3nz4>http://tinyurl.com/e3nz4
> > http://www.9xauto.com/tentiontool.htm
> > For the tool that you use to spread the pullys while you get the
> > exact adjustment with the Kriket I made my own out of some oak
>blocks
> > cut into a semi circle and threaded all rod and nuts. Allows you
>to
> > easily spread the pullys to the exact spacing necessary to set the
> > tension you need to measure with the Kriket. You can buy a set of
> > these blocks at JC whitney but I cant remember the part number.
> >
> > Tom Warner
> > Vernon Center,Ny
> > 1985 PT 40
> >
> > At 09:09 PM 6/15/2006, you wrote:
> >
> > >Thanks for the advice. First thing - I'll check the belt numbers
>and
> > >buy a tensionometer and tensioner. Darn good advice.
> > >
> > >But, I am of the notion that I should be able to turn while still,
> > >without noise (especially on gravel). Here's why:
> > >
> > >1.) the power steering pump rebuilder said, with 12,000 lbs on the
> > >front wheels, the pressure required to turn the non-rolling wheels
> > >should be about 600 psi (the pump is good for 1700 psi.)
> > >
> > >2.) in 1978, who would pay over $100k for a coach that is harmed
>by a
> > >function so crucial to maneuvering in tight spaces? - like when
> > >parking in my tiny back yard? It doesn't make marketing sense to
>me.
> > >
> > >That said - I agree that static turns should be avoided if at all
> > >possible.
> > >
> > >Tom, thanks for your patience and great advice; much appreciated!
> > >
> > >Danny
> > >1978 FC33
> > >San Jose, CA
> > >
> > >--- In
> > > >40yahoogroups.com>WanderlodgeForum@y\
ahoogroups.com,
>
> > >Tom Warner
> > >wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Danny:
> > > >
> > > > 1. Dont turn the wheels when the coach is stationary.it puts to
> > >high
> > > > a load on the power steering pump and steering box. Only turn
>the
> > > > steering wheel when you start moving.
> > > >
> > > > 2. make sure you keep the power steering reservoir filled to
>the
> > > > proper level with no air pockets in it.
> > > >
> > > > 3. ALWAYS and I repeat ALWAYS ensure that you have the proper V
> > >belt
> > > > on the power steering pump.
> > > >
> > > > 4. ALWAYS tighten the V belt on the power steering pump to the
> > > > proper belt tension. Tighten it to much and you wear out the
> > > > bearings and cause leaks. Tighten it not enough and you risk
>the
> > >belt
> > > > slipping wearing them out fast and lots of squealing.
> > > >
> > > > In my opinion (this is what I have always done) buy a Kriket
>from
> > > > NAPA or any other automotive store that carries them and use
>it to
> > > > properly tension each belt on the engine including the power
> > >steering
> > > > belt. Its the best money you could spend for the peace of mind
> > > > knowing that you have done it right. Also buy a manual belt
> > > > tightener so you can properly tighten the pullys and get the
>right
> > >V
> > > > belt tension.
> > > >
> > > > tom warner
> > > > Vernon Center,NY
> > > > 1985 PT 40
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>