Over heating 6V92

[Gregory OConnor]

Jerry I tend to be a smartass in my posts but this is the honest
answer. Open mouth and take a reading if it is close to 98.6 there
you go. If you cant hold an oral thermometer the procedures would be
different.

To get a high reading, I guess you could bring water to a boil and
read it. The emissivity is relative if both surfaces are the same as
you are looking to compare temps and less concerned as to water temp
as the water temp is a result not the cause. Black hose prior to
radiator, blackhose after radiator, ; engine block at piston one ,
engine block at piston 5.

Things like wheel hubs should heat up the same if one is hotter there
is a friction problem. If a piston is hotter than another piston the
colder may not be firing or the warmer may have a bearing, ring
problem??? If you know the temp when things are running good, you
could compare them when there is an issue.

I guess in place of temperature you could call the reading a value.
You sound too much like Curt!!

Gregory O'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry" wrote:
>
> How do you calibrate the RAYTEC heat (IR) detector? How do you
correct for
> the emissitivity of the item being measured? These items on early
such IR
> detectors could result in gross errors if not properly done.
>
>
>
> Jerry
>
> MS Gulf Coast
>
> Still Looking
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gregory
OConnor
> Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 10:32 AM
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Over heating 6V92
>
>
>
> Jay, if you turn on winter to cool it down, would you not also have
> to run the fans over the various heat registers to have any cooling
> effect?? I wonder if winter restricts flow dynamically to the
engine
> R in an attempt to bring the heat up at Idle as in winter ambient
> would be lower?? Maybe that restriction (i.e., valve) is stuck or
> the water pump or belt is bad?? Is it possible to eliminate the
> chassis loop prior to any diverter valves, Manually?
>
> As the engine is heating up, a Raytec laser would help detect
extreme
> heat if one piston or bearing is causing more friction then the
> other. Use the raytec to check temps of cooling water ( early after
> startup as temps on the cockpit gauge start to climb)to see if the
> flow in to the Big Radiator is as hot as the flow out of the
Engine.
> if the temp into the Radiator is cooler your problem is flow ,
> chances are the pump or belt or restriction is your problem ( bad
> flow can be push problem or restriction problem). When a pump goes
it
> usually leaks unless some one put in the majic radiator stop leak.
> Early on, check the temps in the radiator core. It should all be as
> hot or hotter than the exit water. This would reveal a plugged core
> ( definitly a plug if a upper section is cooler then a lower
> section), or just bad push from the pump.
>
> I like your water radiator cool tip. Wonder if there was a way to
> use the gray water. Use of the other tank contents would give
> literal meaning to a offensive phrase, but may prove help full when
> followed too closly by other motorists.
>
> Greg
> 94pt
> waiting for catscan results today
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@
> yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst"
> wrote:
> >
> > Gang,
> >
> > My Bird just experienced an over heat situation.
> >
> > The temp gage read about 220 degrees, cooling fan on,
winter/summer
> > switch in the winter position, all this would not bring the temp
> > down.The antifreeze was full.
> >
> > Happened while Bird was idling. I assume the thermostats need
> > replaced. That will be by first repair,I suppose?
> >
> > In the last 3 weeks been on a 2,000 mile round trip and a 400
mile
> > round trip. No problems.
> >
> > Any suggestions or comments are appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Jay Darst
> > 85PT40 6V92 MTB654CR
> > Springfield, IL
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>