Starting Problem

[davidkerryedwards]

If it took a little longer than usual to start, there's still a
possibility there is a small air/fuel leak allowing the fuel to
drain back out of lines when it is not running. Try the primer pump
before starting the next time and see if it fires right up. If so,
that's a good indication it has a small air/fuel leak somewhere.

Kerry

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Chris Reed
wrote:
>
> Jeff, thanks!!!
> Removed injector line and cranked engine. Fuel came out like it
should. Once air was bled engine tried to start. With a little
cranking and some starting fluid she was up and running....smoother
than ever...
> So I am I safe to assume that that was my starting problem? I
shut down and started it up again fine.
> An hour later tried to start and it did take a little longer but
it finally started...of course the air filter is off and the fuel
filter on it's side so maybe that was part of the problem...
> BTW...I never did put BioBor in my fuel. When I pulled the
filters it did not look like algea and when I pulled the new Racor
after 40 miles it looked like new still....so I am hoping it was not
an algea problem..
> Thanks to everyone for all the info....
> Chris Reed
> 83 FC35 SB
> Plant City, FL
>
> Jeff Miller wrote:
> See if your racor filter is full, ditto for the engine
filter. It
> sounds like there might be an air leak.
>
> Another possibility is that a wire has come off or isn't powered
to
> the fuel shutoff solenoid which is located at the fuel pump on the
> engine, a cylinder sticking up a little larger than a D battery.
> Check for 12v on the solenoid. If you remove this solenoid the
> engine should run, but you'll need to push down on the shutoff
lever
> below it to shut down.
>
> Back to the air leak, the '83 has an electric fuel pump at the
tank,
> the pitter-patter sound you hear toward the rear of the coach when
> idling. With this pump operating properly, you can open the racor
> slightly and fuel will run out, there should be pressure at all
> points up to the fuel distributor/pump on the engine at idle. If
> there is a leak, and it sucks air in at idle, likely your electric
> pump isn't working either. It is powered by an oil-pressure switch
> located beneath the dashboard, barely visible with the headlamp-
door
> opened.
>
> You can start by manually priming the engine, if that doesn't seem
> to be it then loosen an injector line at the head and crank the
> engine to see if fuel sprays out as it cranks. If not you need to
> try priming again and possibly opening another injector line. This
> is BTW one way to purge air out of injector lines but the 3208
will
> usually purge as it runs provided the air in the lines isn't too
bad.
>
> Good luck,
>
> - Jeff Miller
> in Holland, MI
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Chris"
> wrote:
> >
> > Changed Racor filter last week and changed engine fuel filter
> > yesterday. Took it for a drive last night for about 15 miles and
> it
> > drove better than ever. Much more power...
> > Went to start it today to move it and it started fine. Let it
run
> for
> > 10 minutes or so then increased idle to help air up faster (bag
> leak in
> > rear). Ran at higher idel for maybe 2 or 3 minutes then brought
> back to
> > low idle and it cut off. Will not start at all now....
> > Checked the fuel shut off solinoid and it's working. Can hear
and
> feel
> > it. Checked Racor filter and it is clean. Tried hand prime pump
> and it
> > appears to feel like it has pressure behind it. Could it be air
in
> the
> > lines or something real bad????
> > Thanks
> > Chris Reed
> > 83 FC35 SB
> > Plant City, FL
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>