30 AMP OPS

[Pete Masterson]

My question was academic* rather than practical as the current set-up
is simply to keep the batteries charged and for incidental lighting
in the coach while at home -- which works just fine. My home's main
distribution panel is an obsolete model that requires dreadfully
expensive breakers ($30 to $50 _each_), so I have no desire to
upgrade them as we're about to put the house on the market --- and
move into the coach full time. Besides, I wired the circuit for 30
amps and I'd have to pull new wire to increase to 50. (I was
reserving the circuit for a possible AC unit in the future. Weather
in our area rarely requires significant cooling, so we only have a
couple of small ACs through the wall into two bedrooms -- a third,
larger AC unit would round out the cooling in the living/dining
area.... This is something that a new owner can undertake, should
they so desire.)

I was considering the possibilities (using a cheater cord) of getting
a little more current at an RV park that only had 30 amp service ---
but my current practice of disconnecting shore power and running the
generator for cooking meals (all-electric coach) seems to be the
better approach in those circumstances -- rather than run the risk of
putting a section of an RV park into the dark with blown circuits.

I appreciate the information. (Admittedly, over the years I've been
'spoiled' by having a brother-in-law (now deceased) who was a
maintenance electrician at a large military facility assist with some
wiring issues, so my education in such matters has been limited.)

*"electricity" wasn't one of my merit badges. Probably would have
been more useful as my "fingerprinting" merit badge has been of
little use over the years!

Pete Masterson
aeonix1@...
'95 Bluebird Wanderlodge WBDA 4203
El Sobrante, CA




On Aug 12, 2006, at 10:05 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

> Pete, "With your 30 amp 220 breaker at the house you have 30 amp
> available on each leg (red , Black) but not at the same time. " you
> can draw 30 amps through that breaker total. ie; '30 on one leg and
> zero on the other' or '15 and 15'. or run a total of 30 X 110 =
> 3,300 watts. By design the breaker will trip if you draw more than
> 30 amps in any combination. You could simply replace the breaker
> with a 50 amp if you have proper rated wire leading up to the bus.
> Nothing wrong with leaving it 30 and managing the watt/ amp usage in
> the bus.
>
> I wonder if there is a way to hook into 110 30 amp and use the
> inverter to make the other leg for the cooktop?
>
>
> If you hook into 110 30A and turn on the cooktop, I wonder if the
> electricity will pass to appliances on the other leg? I have seen
> this happen, the cooktop rehostat became a light dimmer for lights on
> the dead leg.
>
> My electrical certification is limited to a merit badge and education
> I credited to a 'how to do it book'. Titled "Don't be shocked by the
> shorts"
>
> Gregory O'Connor
> 94ptRomolandCa
> Eagle'74
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
> wrote:
>>
>> Gregory,
>>
>> I followed your explanation except for the part quoted below. The
> 30
>> amp 220 circuit in my home that I "stole" for the coach originally
>> served an electric stove (or oven, I forget which -- we converted
> the
>> house stove to natural gas). So what I don't understand is why the
> 30
>> amps available would be only on one leg or the other but not both?
>> The circuit is served by two breakers (switches tied together with
> a
>> metal bar) and wired with a red, black, white and green wire.
> White
>> is neutral, green is ground, I thought the black and red were each
> a
>> 30 amp "leg" of the circuit -- or am I missing something. (I'm not
> an
>> electrician, so "three phase" wiring isn't my area of clear
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
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