Dometic Refrigerator Tips

[Eric Johnson]

Hi Ralph,
Thanks for the information. It seems the unit came back from the dead after I
shut off the
12 vdc to the back of the coach and then put it back in service. It took a long
time to cool
back down but then we keep having 100+ºF days which doesn't help. I don't think
the fan
located in the outside compartment is working anymore. Got any info on a good
replacement for this fan? Is it on a thermostat or should it run when I flip
the switch in the
panel next to the kitchen sink, regardless of temperature? Better circulation
through there
might improve cooling on these hot days.
Regards, Eric in San Antonio
84FC35SBWL2

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Hello Eric:
>
> Lets explore some basic troubleshooting on this one.
>
> First, the button at the bottom that was red, now green, after resetting is
> for the LP only. Your refer, if not on automatic needs to be switched over
> to LP at the eye brow of (panel) of the refer.
> 12 vdc
> Now, no matter if on ac or lp, the refer board still needs 12 vdc to power
> it up. So you need to check to be sure there is 12 vdc at the terminal
> strip in the out side refer compartment. The terminal strip is at the base
> of the refer just under the circuit board. If 12 vdc is present, there are
> 2 or 3 fuses on the circuit board that needs to be checked.
>
> 110 vac
> Next, you need to ohm out the 110vac heater located beside the boiler tube
> on the right. Find the wiring and trace to where the connectors are. making
> sure power is off, undo the connectors and measure ohms across the 2
> wires. You should read between 1.2 and 4 ohms, or a reading other than 0.
> if the meter reads 0 then the heater is bad, replace it. If it ohms out,
> then re connect the wires, apply 110 vac power, turn on the refer to manual
> ac, then check for 110 vac at the connections going to the heater. The
> boiler tube should be very warm to the touch or you can feel the insert
> tube on the side of the boiler to see if it is getting hot.
>
> Lp.
> Switch the eye brow to manual lp and you should hear a click click click of
> the igniter/re igniter trying to ignite the lp flame. go out and make sure
> it lights, you may have to remove the cover plate to see the flame or use a
> mirror.
>
> If the AC heater is getting hot and the boiler tube is becoming warm, in 3
> to 4 hours you should be able to feel the shelf plate in the refer getting
> cold. If it remains warm or hot, then the coil unit of the refer is blocked
> and time for a new unit.
>
> If you need a new unit. There was a recall on Norcold units, due to fires
> starting, so be sure to check that model and serial numbers if you go
> Norcold. Most techs and RV repair places are reluctant to even work on
> Norcolds right now because of law suites.
>
> Personal I still think the Dometic is a better unit, but that is like tires
> and insurance, everyone has their own ideas.
>
> Start with the voltage check and take it one step at a time.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
>
> >
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Our original Dometic refrigerator has mysteriously quit cooling
> > > while on shore power. I
> > > > opened the door and found it was warm inside. Checked the light
> > > at the bottom and it was
> > > > showing red. I turned the unit off, waited awhile, turned it back
> > > on and the light was green.
> > > > Checked it a couple of hours later and still no cooling.
> > > >
> > > > Any ideas on what might be the problem? I had the circuit board
> > > replaced about 5 years ago
> > > > and it has worked great ever since. Could it be I need a new
> > > board again?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance for any help, suggestions.
> > > >
> > > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>